2005 silveraldo and rs

I am in a confused state. I recently bought a viper 5101 and am getting ready to install it next week just brushing up on my skills. I know what to install and where to install it, but the heavy gauge is what is throwing me. it goes like this

H3/1 pink    Ignition 1 input/output
H3/2 RED / white              (+) fused (30A) fused ignition 2/flex relay input 87
H3/3 Orange Accessory output
H3/4 Violet Starter output
H3/5 Red     (+) fused (30A) Ignition 1 input
H3/5 Pink/white             Ignition 2/flex relay output 30
H3/7 Pink/black             Flex relay input 87A keyside (if required) of flex relay
H3/8 RED / black              (+) fused (30A) accessory/starter input


I have installed a few remote starts before; although for some reason I am lost on this one. If someone can please help me and tell me where to put the wires it would be appreciated. Thank you very much for any assistance.

Shaun

Which of the wires are you confused about?

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

I guess i am reading too deep into the instructions. Where they pretty much all go. I may be having a blond moment, for some reason I just cant understand it. I have installed viper 1600xp, viper 791xv and was not confused about the instructions. Thank you for your assistance.

I too am stumped on some of the DEI wiring. Some insight to this would be greatly appreciated.

the 3 red(constant 12volts) go to constant power to power the internal relays, purple is output to starter wire in truck(yellow or violet), pink to ign1 (pink) orange to accessory (orange)pink/white should be igniton 2(white in truck)pink/blk should not be need it appears this is in case ignition 2 needs to be isolated from ign switch during remote start(ala chrysler mux wire)
they used to have a green wire also for key side of starter wire( which you would cut so that during remote start it would have anti grind) does it no longer have this wire/circuit?

but im confused? if you have experience doing remote starts this harness is the most self explanitory harness in a kit( with the execption of the flex wire, but again this should all be explained in the install manual) no offense but if this harness confuses you it sounds like maybe you should have someone with more experience install this unit in your truck,what are you doing for passlock?;, door locks? tach? etc

What im lost in is the flex relay wires. Are those just left alone? Though my install isnt a Chevy truck. Im in a 06 Jeep Commander.

without reading the new dei instructions, my guess is that they are the in and output sides of a 2nd ignition relay which would be used for the chrysler mux wire if not using an interface that incorporates the mux circuit, as when hardwiring the resistor based 2nd ignition/start you must use a relay to isolate from the ign switch it appears from the brief description and w/o reading the instruction that this is what the flex relay wiring is

Exactly. the flex relays are what is throwing me. i know where majority of the wires go but the flex relays are killing me. These are exactly word for word out of the DEI instructions; although this remote start has not starter kill.

Jim is correct. On a 2005 GM truck, the pink/black is not connected to anything.

Examples of what it could be used for:
1)   Toyota Celica/Nissan Altima that needs to have the ignition wire cut when adding remote start to prevent the starter from grinding when inserting the key. RED / white to constant 12v, cut ignition wire and connect to pink/white and pink/black.
2)   early 2000's Dodge Caravan that has a second starter wire that needs to have 180 ohms through ground fed to the second starter wire. Cut 2nd starter wire in van, connect pink/black to key side, pink/white to starter side, and RED / white to ground through a 180 ohm resistor to ground.

You can look at the RED / white, pink/white and pink/black as 3 terminals on a relay.
RED / white is 87, pink/white as 30, and pink/black as 87a.
It is your job to determine how it is used, depending on the vehicle.
You then can change how the relay is activate by going in the programming menu. It can function as a starter output, accessory output, or ignition ouput.

Okay. I do thank you for the help. I have everything installed and cant get the darn thing to even act like it is going to crank. It clicks 7 times and the parking lights flash 7 times. Any assistance is appreciated. thank you.

I have a hunch that your rs is NOT set in automatic transmission mode. Change to automatic mode & try again.

okay no luck. i am going to hope this helps

I have the wires hooked up in this order per wiring instructions


h1/1 RED / white aux trunk release (not used)
h1/2 red constant input   Hooked up constant power
h1/3 brown horn (-) input (not used)
h1/4 WHITE/ brown flex park parking light relay 87a (used for multiplex circuit which truck does not have so not used)
h1/5 black chassis ground (grounded at frame)
h1/6 violet door (+) input (hooked up at door wire)
h1/7 blue (-) factory horn input (not used)
h1/8 green door (-) input (hooked up at door)
h1/9 BLACK/ white domelight 200 amp (-) input (not using)
h1/10 WHITE/ blue remote start activation (-) input (not used)
h1/11 whtie parking light output 30   (hooked up at switch (-) power)
h1/12 orange ground-when-armed    (not used)

neutral safety safety switch plugged in and turned on

BLACK/ white neutral safety (-) input   (have grounded)
violet/white tach input (system has virtual tach so not using)
brown brake shutdown (+) input   Hooked up to (+) wire@brake switch
gray hood pin switch no/nc (-) input (have hooked up to switch in engine compartment that came with system)

antenna hooked up
valet program in antenna
status led in antenna

H3/1 pink    Ignition 1 input/output   Ignition wire@ignition harness
H3/2 RED / white (+) fused (30A) fused ignition 2/flex relay input 87 power wire Power wire@ignigion wire
H3/3 Orange Accessory output    accessory wire@ignition harness
H3/4 Violet     Starter output    starter wire@ignition wire
H3/5 Red       (+) fused (30A) Ignition 1 input power wire@ignition harness
H3/5 Pink/white   Ignition 2/flex relay output 30 Ignition 2@ignition harness
H3/7 Pink/black   Flex relay input 87A keyside (if required) of flex relay (not used)
H3/8 RED / black (+) fused (30A) accessory/starter input Power wire@ignition harness


what is happening.... I have the heavy gauge wires hooked press the button. I do not receive any power going to the ignition wire at all. takes 5 seconds and receive 7 flashes of the light.

This is confusing and am worried i have received a bum unit. any help is appreciated.

on the heavy gauge wires, what color wires do you have what colr wires from remote start hooked to? (i.e. red wire from remote start to red wire at ign etc.)
ive not used dei since the virtual tach has been added but i thought 7 flashes on dei was no tach signal? is it maybe like audiovox/code alarms where the vehicle has to be started so many times for the remote start to learn a crank time?these trucks the tach wire is very easy to hook to and is so much more dependable i would hook up and program tach( it is the only white wire at the back of the instrument(gauge)cluster)shoudl even be able to grab the harness without removing the gauges but if unsure the gauges remove very easily with (4)7mm screws. also while not related to the no start issue how/why do you have both positive and negative door trigger hooked to door?, either you have the negative hooked to the latch wires(diode isolated naturally) or you have the positive( i believe) door trigger hooked up but no need to have both

i will have to try that in the morning. I do thank you for the help.

Seven flashes is almost definitely manual mode..Your attempt in menu three to select automatic was not saved, so try that again, it is probably not tach, as factory default is virtual tach, which always has worked for us in tons of vehicles.  And yes the Pink/Black is nothing in this vehicle, and Pink/White can be called Ign2 if that is more clear...Hope It works out..

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The best way to predict the future is to create it!

Okay i got it installed. This has been a headache install. I have it set to tach, crank time enough to crank, automatic setting. My problem is it cranks up, starts the engine and the engine runs then cuts off; almost like it does not crank long enough. When the engine is warm it starts and runs. When the engine is cold this is when it happens. it does not have passive security or RFID chip in the key. Any assistance is appreciated. Thank you in advance.

just gonna try to toss this out... you never mentioned what passlock interface you're using.  if you are indeed using one, try to re-teach the tach signal.  just trying to help out...

I am not using a passlock interface, I was going to try to run it without it. it did start without a problem when the engine was warmed up. I did try to relearn the tach signal and it did relearn it with no problem, but no dice.

that vehicle has passlock, and if it doesnt see the proper resistance after a couple attempts its gonna lock your truck up in theft mode(which is very time consuming to remove) you need to wire in a 556L(d.e.i.) or similar product in order for it to work , theres no logical reason why it worked when warm, unless it had maintained the resistance code long enough for your attempt(which it shouldnt have)

that's what was throwing me off.  how could it have worked when the truck was warm?

Thank you jim for the heads up on that 556l. I installed today and it started up like a dream. Now as far as the starting up when warm i am guessing like jim said. i did start it after i took the key out of the ignition after warming it up so it is a possibility of the resistance still being stored. I do thank everyone for the help. Case solved with this one. I definitely do like the older vehicles with no security it was easier.