giordon 686 wiring problem
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=116563
Printed Date: July 14, 2025 at 1:56 AM
Topic: giordon 686 wiring problem
Posted By: devilbemmer
Subject: giordon 686 wiring problem
Date Posted: September 27, 2009 at 9:21 AM
hi, i have a bmw 1994 31.8i , i am trying to fit the central locking part of the wires but the diagrams in the manual have confused me know end and need help. does any one have a wiring diagram to assist me thank you
Replies:
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: September 27, 2009 at 10:22 AM
Control unit behind the glove box, you have three plugs facing you on the upper level. 2nd quadplug from the right, remove cover, lock wire goes into a blank space at at pin 4, bare 7mm of wire insert and hold to loom with a cable tie, unlock gets soldered to pin 17, blue red, set lock wires to positive going and make extended time pulse to close windows. Also run a diode 1N4001 etc from the lock wire to the unlock wire to achieve deadlocking, the diode band to the unlock side. That is if from experience a 94 3 Series electrics still support 1 touch window close and deadlock. If your alarm doesn't support any of these functions, throw the piece of garbage away and get a decent alarm, Hornet, Toad, Scorpion Clifford will all support these functions. I still get to do about three of these a month, most of the 1 touch windows and central locking systems have semi failed and the glove boxes are normally falling apart. Door contacts, right hand quadplug as above, brown primary, grey blue, yelow etc secondary with yellow dots are the four door contacts, diode them together, boot contact, BROWN / white in the saloon, just in front of bulkhead grommet, behind rear seat corner, left side, coupe in loom behind trim, left hand boot. Ignition, light green, starter, light/green and black, 12+constant red all three in loom going to transmission hump behind glove box (you don't need to get to driver's side). Indicators, single BROWN / blue at hazard switch, NEG going Bonnet (hood) switch, shut rail nearside, shorten, shaft lenght of switch, siren, nearside, there's a grommet to bulkhead beneath battery, accessible from inside above carpet edge to bulkhead, pull down carpet, pull up foam above to expose the grommet. If you are still worried, pm me with your email address and I'll send you photos.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: September 27, 2009 at 10:30 AM
Two more thoughts, if your cars an auto, it might work, second,no competent installer will touch that brand of alarm. There are specific things you have to do to a BMW to make the R/S work including transponder by-pass, I'll bet the owner's sheet doesn't even mention that. I once tried to install one of these to a Polo, even the alarm didn't work, threw it away and sold him a Clifford with rem. start.
Posted By: devilbemmer
Date Posted: September 27, 2009 at 11:02 AM
cheers for that, my bm is a coupe will that matter, the immobiliser is non functional asw well
Posted By: devilbemmer
Date Posted: September 27, 2009 at 11:30 AM
just had a thought , i have a wire that is meant to be wrapped around the coil, as it is a coil pack where do i put this wire cheers
Posted By: devilbemmer
Date Posted: September 27, 2009 at 11:37 AM
hi i have a wire that needs to be wrapped around the coil but as i have a coil pack where do i connect this wire
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: September 27, 2009 at 12:28 PM
Another reason why that piece of crap won't work. Proper R/Ss use a tach input. I'm really not prepared to help you anymore because this brand will cause trouble.
Posted By: devilbemmer
Date Posted: September 27, 2009 at 12:48 PM
i dont know why you wont help as you say you have lots of experince and you have wired this to a bmw before, so you might as well finish it off now i have installed all the other wires, and this is the last one left.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: September 27, 2009 at 3:16 PM
It won't work, it's rubbish. Is your car a manual because if so it's also dangerous and ethically apart from breaking site rules I can't help you bcause ther's no provision for it to used with a manual transmission.
Posted By: devilbemmer
Date Posted: October 06, 2009 at 2:37 PM
have nearly completed install of my alarm system , but have one final problem, i have used a universal acuator ( spelling wrong ) , and i am left with a blue wire which needs to be connected to the central locking negative wire, how do i find this, and also when i drive my car the alarm goes off, something to do with the oscillator, please help
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 06, 2009 at 5:13 PM
What am I supposed to say, I told you so? Please get yourself an alarm or remote start that's reputable and I'll help you but throw that piece of garbage away. Why in the name of heaven do you need an actuator?
Posted By: devilbemmer
Date Posted: October 07, 2009 at 4:56 AM
i went to a auto electrics place where i paid for a consultancy fee for the central locking and they advised me to use a actuator , so on there advice spent £30 and installed it as per instructions i was given. so now i have completed that task and also installed the violet wire to my number 1 ht lead , all that is left is the blue wire , which needs to be installed to the negative of the central locking. so as i have battled on and done much of the install myself i thought a bit of kindness would be nice to finish the job off.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 07, 2009 at 2:22 PM
The only kindness is what I've told you already, i.e. junk it. I've NEVER had to fit an acuator, £7.50 in Maplin by the way to a BMW since the E30 came out in about 1985. Unless of course one of your factory ones has failed.
Posted By: devilbemmer
Date Posted: October 07, 2009 at 3:26 PM
i have a e36 , i cant believe you are so negative everything works on the alarm even the remote start, the oscillator has a small cliche and i know it is to do with the blue wire that has to go to the central locking door negative, i thought you would at least solve this last problem just to get rid of me, and by the way the alarm aint that doodie if it works. at least you will save me from going back to the auto electrics shop
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 08, 2009 at 1:02 AM
What do you mean by central locking door negative. the locks on that model are pos triggered. That car takes me 4 hours to do an alarm /rs. I gave you FULL instructions earlier on, you could even have had photos if you'd have pm'd me so don't tell me I'm being negative. I do this for a living and I know the product. What do you mean by oscilator? Siren?
Posted By: boxhead78
Date Posted: October 08, 2009 at 10:02 PM
go to www.12volt.com and get your wiring diagram but you may have to use relays for the door locks ------------- boxead78
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 09, 2009 at 2:27 AM
The only reason for relays on that car would be to flip the neg lock outputs of an alarm that didn't have pos locking, or for total close and deadlocking with a diode to each lock wire.
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