Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 07 dodge nitro remote start problems

I'm installing a Compustar CM5200 with a Idatalink ADS DLSL CH3 bypass.. I wired it as such:

Connector 1 (CN1), 8-Pin
1: ( + ) Red - Constant 12V positive (+) power input. – Connect to Red in Drivers Kick or IGN Harness

2: ( + ) GREEN / WHITE positive (+) parking light - Connect to WHITE/ Violet in Large harness low in Drivers Kick

3: ( + ) RED / White - Constant 12V positive (+) power input. - Connect to Red in Drivers Kick or IGN Harness

7: ( + ) Green – Ignition 12V positive (+) output and input. - Connect to Pink/White in IGN Harness

8: ( - ) Black - Ground negative (-) input. - Connect to Ground

CN3 - 18 Wire Connector

Pin 15 White [POC 8] - Horn honk 250mA negative (-) output. - Connect to Dark Green / Violet at Steering Column

ADS-DLSL CH3 - Connected to remote starter via RS232..

Yellow - Multiplex Output - Connects to PURPLE / Brown Multiplex Wire at IGN
BROWN / Red - CANH - Connects to Pin 6 @ Immobilizer
BROWN / Yellow - CANL - Connects to Pin 7 @ Immobilizer
Pink - Ignition Input - Connects to Pink/White @ IGN

I got everything hooked up and then programmed the bypass (successfully)..

First issue is the locks don't work.. I hear the brain clicking and the parking lights flash but the locks don't lock / unlock. The bypass is supposed to control these so no wires were hooked up.

Second issue is it won't accept the tach.. Bypass is also supposed to handle this so no wire was hooked up.. Compustar won't remote start until a tach is programmed and when I do the programming it says it's invalid..

It's almost like the bypass isn't controlling anything (locks, tach, etc)..

Any ideas?

Thanks!

You have to hook up the tach and door lock wires from the alarm brain to the corresponding input wires on the ADS-DLSL CH3 module. If you read the modules installation instructions it tells you which one's they are.

According to the manual if you use Idatalink (RS232) connection you don't have to?

posted_image

quite possibly your remotes start datlink connection is not sending the information,or its not accepted by idatalnk, i would remove the d2d harness and direct wire these inputs, and you will have to prograsm the tach in your remote start programs, i have had some irregular glitches using d2d harness so i always hardwire just to avoid a repair from improper communications

I just tried direct wiring and bypassing the D2D and I still can't get nothing. :(

No lock, no unlock, etc.. The remote start clicks when I do the lock / unlock and the parking lights flash but nothing happens with the doors!

The bypass goes solid green and then goes out when I connect it which says it's programmed correctly..

Help!!

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~115099~KW~http%3A%2F%2Fbypassevolution.com%2F~PN~0~TPN~1#558337

i am an idiot wrote:

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~115099~KW~http%3A%2F%2Fbypassevolution.com%2F~PN~0~TPN~1#558337

Yea, that bypass is sweet but I really don't want to spend an additional $80 when I have what SHOULD work now..

Something went wrong in your module programming.

This vehicle works with CH3 since the vehicle exists.

Did you got the led to start blinking Green when you turned the ignition ON during programming?

Are you sure you select the good install method Data/Hadwired?

Did the LED started to blink Green when ignition was turned ON

If no Green flashes, test ignition and test the CAN wires of the vehicle

Can Low should be around .1.5 Volts

Can High should be around 3.5

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If you fail on your first attempt, at least destroy all evidence you tried!

racing_bidule wrote:

Something went wrong in your module programming.
This vehicle works with CH3 since the vehicle exists.
Did you got the led to start blinking Green when you turned the ignition ON during programming?
Are you sure you select the good install method Data/Hadwired?
Did the LED started to blink Green when ignition was turned ON
If no Green flashes, test ignition and test the CAN wires of the vehicle
Can Low should be around .1.5 Volts
Can High should be around 3.5

I will check these this weekend.. Too late tonight..

What do you mean by this: "Are you sure you select the good install method Data/Hadwired?"

When the LED flashes you can press the programming button to cycle between hard wiring and D2D

first step in the programming instructions for the idatalink, is to select d2d or hardwired,(when first hooked up 1 flash is d2d, so if you have it d2d press and hold button till light turns solid green or (if you have it hardwired tap the button once to get 2 flashes then press and hold button until light turns solid green)then turn ignition on to complete programming)

Progress!!!

I reset the bypass and programmed it to direct wire (and not D2D, tried that first but still didn't work)..

I got the locks working! :D

Problem now is the Compustar isn't accepting the tach signal from the bypass.. When I program it (start car, hold break, press remote start button) I get the three blinks and then one blink which is bad tach signal..

So I try running a wire directly to a tach signal (wire opposite BROWN / gray at coil) and it still says invalid. I even metered the tach wire and on AC on my meter with the vehicle running its at like .2V and when I hit the gas it goes up to 1.6V and higher..

I would really like to use no tach mode because I'm pretty sure this vehicle doesn't need one but effing compustar requires that freaking programmer hardware which I don't have to change that option..

Ideas?

Thanks!!

Scratch that.. I read the manual wrong.. That programmer is just needed for the special options section..

Going out now to try and go tachless.. Will report back!

Ok. Got it to program as tachless.. Now I can't get it to start as it acts like the ring wrapped around isn't programmed?

It just starts and dies.. However, if I remote start with a key in it will work..

If you look at the programming directions I didn't do the very thing at the top "Unplug both connectors from the transponder case" because I didn't know what the hell it was talking about..

However, I did do the rest of the directions and the vehicle will start if I insert the transponder in an empty key so that tells me it's programmed correctly, right?

posted_image

Anyone have any ideas?

Someone, please help me out.. I don't know what could be the issue and it's getting cold here for my wife!

Bumping this up one last time to hopefully get some help..

Please guys.. I got everything wired and don't want to pull it all out.. I know it's gotta be something stupid..

If you have the cable to connect the module to USB and go to idatalink.com you can flash the new software they have the new CH5 firmware that bypass the transponder through data so you dont have to do the ring programming.

If your 5200 brain is a certain version it wont work 2way. They updated this brain a couple times and you might have one that is missing features.

If you live anywhere near NEPA I would help you in person.

If you got the extra transponder to program and have the plugs in the right places for its antenna one other tip is:

The ADS ring gives off a weak signal and the antenna wire end would need to be wrapped several times(at least five or more) around the key cylinder.

Im not sure what you have and have not done so far. If youre programming the transponder remember that sometimes it can take 30 seconds for the car to accept the new one.

mobiletint wrote:

If you have the cable to connect the module to USB and go to idatalink.com you can flash the new software they have the new CH5 firmware that bypass the transponder through data so you dont have to do the ring programming.

If your 5200 brain is a certain version it wont work 2way. They updated this brain a couple times and you might have one that is missing features.

If you live anywhere near NEPA I would help you in person.

Thanks SOO much for the reply! I do have the cable to flash it. I have the ADS-DLSL CH3 am I able to flash that with the ADS-AL(DL)-CH5 (1.4) firmware?

Hopefully, maybe not though. I always just use an ADS DL and flash it to whatever I need. Maybe it will still let you reflash it anyway with at least the same but a newer version.

It still seems that you might not have the transponder operating correctly. That would shut the car off right after start. I would make sure the antenna is looped several times and plugged in right.

mobiletint wrote:

Hopefully, maybe not though. I always just use an ADS DL and flash it to whatever I need. Maybe it will still let you reflash it anyway with at least the same but a newer version.

It still seems that you might not have the transponder operating correctly. That would shut the car off right after start. I would make sure the antenna is looped several times and plugged in right.

Thanks again for the help.. What exactly is the transponder? That isn't the actual bypass, right? It's the cable that plugs into the bypass that has a small device on the end near the bypass and then the ring antenna on the other?

If I am able to hold that device that is inline with the cable inside a key and I can start it up fine doesn't that show the bypass / transponder is correctly programmed?

That "device" is the transponder. If youve done the antenna around the keycylnder a bunch of loops and its still not working then maybe the bypass isnt activating it during remote start.

That may be a result of the standard wiring method not telling the module when to activate the ring.

If you can take the cable part, not the antenna part, and use a relay to connect the two black wires in the cable during remote start it will send the transponder signal to the key cylinder and the car will start.

Just take an ignition wire and ground out while running to activate the relay. Then have cut the plug that goes in the CH3 off and connect them to the relay so that they are connected during remote start and seperated normally.

Thanks again for helping me..

Before I try that you think I should try flashing the bypass to that CH5 firmware?

and for the record this is totally not where/how I would normally go about this, but you seem to be stuck with only a few things at hand.

tbird2340 wrote:

Thanks again for helping me..

Before I try that you think I should try flashing the bypass to that CH5 firmware?

If it will take it or give you a new version, definately. If you plug the brain in, I think there is a way for you to update that as well. (which would prob rectify the idatalink 2way)

Im pretty sure that it doesnt know when to activate the ring. Check on the standard wiring the ground out while running.

OK.. I just got my module and went to flash it.. It looks like I can select the CH5 firmware but when I choose "Firmware Coverage" it says no vehicle coverage..
posted_image

Also when I try to look at the install guide for the CH5 it isn't listed either:

posted_image

And lastly, when I choose an 07 Dodge Nitro the CH5 firmware isn't listed either.. I will wait to flash it until I hear back from you.. Thanks again..

posted_image

Doing some more digging.. Is it just the BLADE-AL(DL)-CH5 that will do this? I found a manual for the CH5 but it was for Blade module wiring..

you were right there... just click on the CH5 and youll get the guide when you flash the module in step three.. then go from there.

Finally got around to trying this..

It gets further.. But still doesn't stay running..

When I do a remote start with the CH3 firmware it stays running for about 2 seconds and then shuts off.. When I do a remote start with the CH5 firmware it stays running longer but still shuts off..

Bypass programmed successfully and I am out of ideas..

Would it be possible that the bypass is bad? I can't think of anything else.. I've quadruple checked all the wiring.. Tried both CH3 and CH5 firmware..

When using the CH3 firmware I can start the vehicle with a hollow key by inserting the transponder in it so I know that is programmed correctly..

When using the CH5 firmware the security light flashes after it starts about 5 times and then shuts off..

Anyone have any other ideas? Could the bypass be bad?

how did you program the chip portion of the bypass?

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good luck
kirk

Thanks for the reply..

This is how I programmed it.. I know it programmed successfully because I can start the car with a hollow key by holding the transponder inside it..

posted_image

are you plugged into the blue plug also how many wraps did you do around ing cylinder

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good luck
kirk

Yea, the blue plug.. That's the only spot it fits, right?

I wrapped it around as many times as I could just to test.. Could not keep it staying running..

is it wrapped behind skim module or in front of it

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good luck
kirk

I tried both ways..

I also tried the CH5 firmware which doesn't need the ring.. That didn't work either.

if you hold pelleet up to ign then try and remote start what does it do when you remote start

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good luck
kirk

When I hold the transponder up to the IGN (without being plugged into the bypass) and try a remote start.. It does the same thing.. Starts, security light flashes, and then shuts off..

Very strange.. Because when I start the car with a key with the chip taken out and the transponder held inside the empty key it starts fine and stays running!

if you hold pellet about 1/4 inch from the ign with the pellet length wise what does it do this is strange how many times did you wrap around culum and were is the pellet when it is hooked to the bypass is it surrounded by metal

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good luck
kirk

This got me thinking.. I'm basically having the same exact issue with a customer's Hummer.. It starts and then shuts off.. I *thought* I had it wired correctly too.. On my wifes (the Nitro) I *thought* I wired it correctly too but it does the same thing..

I just started using Compustar (installed about 5 of them) but this is the first two I've done this year.. Maybe I'm doing something wrong?

on the hummer check your voltage while cranking what ty;pe of hummer is it if your voltage goes below 10.6 your bypass might be shutting down had colorado do that

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good luck
kirk

ck auto wrote:

on the hummer check your voltage while cranking what ty;pe of hummer is it if your voltage goes below 10.6 your bypass might be shutting down had colorado do that

Here's my Hummer thread if you want to read all I've done so far on it..

Also, on my Nitro.. I got a new ADS-AL CA and flashed it with the CH5 firmware.. It does the same damn thing! Sadly, it's not the bypass.. WTH CAN IT BE!? If I would happen to get the wrong mux wire would that do it? I'm 99% I don't but just kicking around ideas.. I can't make sense of what would do this!