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ultra start in grand cherokee

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=116608
Printed Date: May 02, 2024 at 2:49 PM


Topic: ultra start in grand cherokee

Posted By: puzzleboy
Subject: ultra start in grand cherokee
Date Posted: September 29, 2009 at 12:49 PM

Hi all.  My first post here. 

I'm going to install an Ultra Start remote starter in my '99 Grand Cherokee.  The vehicle does not have a Sentry Key system, so I don't need a bypass.  Wondering if anyone can help me out. 

Exactly what wires in the column to tap into, resistor(s) and/or relays required, etc. I only want the unit to function as a remote starter (no door locks, trunk, etc.).  I'm a bit confused with the parking light part too - does it really need a relay and resistor, or just a resistor?  On this site, I've got the wiring description for my vehicle (I'm good with that), as well as the Installation Note for Jeeps which eliminates the reqmt. for a resistored parking light circuit - connects directly to the parking light relay terminal. 

Anybody have any idea why my starter (Ultra Start) would have 2 12 volt inputs?  Do I just use one of them?  Also, according to Bulldog Security's wiring guide on their site, it says parking light system should use the negative output from my module.  Can anyone confirm this? 

The wires for my starter are:

Starter Output (+) YELLOW
Heater/Accessory Output (+) GREEN
12 Volt Input (+) 30amp RED
12 Volt Input (+) 30amp RED
Selectable Output (+) WHITE
Ignition Output (+) BLUE

Diesel wait to start input (+ or -) BLUE
Brake Switch Input (+) PINK
Horn Output (-) WHITE/ BLUE
System Ground Input (-) BLACK
Park Light Output (+) 10 amp WHITE
Hood pin switch Input (-) GREEN / WHITE
Tach Detection Input (A/C) BLUE/WHITE
Re-arm Output (-) YELLOW
Trunk Release Output (-) RED / WHITE
Dis-arm Output (-) 250ma BROWN
Negative Park Light Output (-)250ma ORANGE
Ground While Running Output WHITE/ VIOLET

Appreciate any help you can offer!

Jason




Replies:

Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: September 29, 2009 at 8:56 PM
I have no personal experience with that particular starter, but, normallly two twelve volt inputs on a remote start is normal, to power the starter circuit along with the ignition and accesory circuits.

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5




Posted By: puzzleboy
Date Posted: September 30, 2009 at 12:39 AM

Thanks for your reply!

Well, there are two wires in my ignition harness that are 12v constant.  A red wire, and a pink/black.  Unfortunately, the install guide that came with my starter is too vague.  I'd hate to fry anything.....  any suggestions?   One to each? 

Also, for things like heater/accessory output and selectable output, I guess it's o.k. just to tape them off and stow them if they're not being used? 

Thanks.





Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: October 01, 2009 at 11:08 AM
Why are you not powering up HVAC...? Whats the point of the remote start...? It is normal to have more then one 12v in ignition harness...One to each is fine...! Yes you can just tape up the wires you are not using...! Which Ultra Start is it...? On some you can change it to negative parking lights in the menu...!

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!




Posted By: puzzleboy
Date Posted: October 01, 2009 at 11:15 AM

Thanks for the input!  It's a G11t.  It has a negative parking light output as well, so I will just not use the positive one. 

I do want the windshield defrost of the vehicle to come on, dependent on the setting I left it on.  But this should work anyway once the vehicle is remote started, no?  The only extra I would want powered would be the rear defrost, but I don't want that to turn on with every start. 

So Heater/ACC output I will use, but I'm guessing I don't need to use the selectable output, etc.?

I've only installed one of these before, and it was a factory version.  I just don't want to screw anything up!





Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: October 01, 2009 at 11:20 AM
The selectable output is for 2nd starter,acc,or ignition...! Does your have 2 of any of these...? if so you would use it...!

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!




Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: October 01, 2009 at 11:22 AM
BatteryPINK/BLACK(+)OR RED IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
posted_imageIgnition 1DARK BLUE(+)IGNITION HARNESS
posted_imageAccessory 1RED / BLACK(+)IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
posted_imageAccessory 2BLACK/ ORANGE(+)IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
posted_imageStarter 1YELLOW(+)OR YEL/BLU IGNITION HARNESS
posted_imageAnti-Theft TypeRF ACTIVATED SYS.
posted_imageAnti-Theft DescriptTHE KEY SENDS AN RF SIGNAL TO THE BCM MODULE THROUGH THE KEY CYLINDER
posted_imageNeutral SafetyYELLOW(+)IGNITION SWITCH
posted_imageTachometerTAN/WHITE(AC)PCM RIGHT REAR CORNER ENG (1 CYL SETTING
posted_imageSpeed SenseWHITE/ ORANGE(AC)PIN 27 PCM LEFT FENDER SIDE SHIELD
posted_imageParking LightsYELLOW(-)1K OHM RESISTOR AT THE STEERING COLUM HARNESS...USE A 1K OHM RESISTOR. MAY ALSO BE AN 820 OHM RESISTOR. posted_image
posted_imageBrake LightsWHITE/ TAN(+)SWITCH ON PEDAL
posted_imageReverse LightsVIOLET/BLACK(+)72 PIN CONN POS 6 BEHIND PASS KICK
posted_imageHornGRAY/ORANGE(-)52 PIN CONN POS 1 BEHIND LEFT SIDE OF DA


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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!




Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: October 01, 2009 at 11:24 AM
Heres how to do door locks w/o using a bypass... https://documents.codesystems.com/700661.pdf ...I know you mentioned not including door locks...But thought i would post it anyway...Good Luck on install...! And your ignition key is black...right...?

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!




Posted By: puzzleboy
Date Posted: October 01, 2009 at 11:34 AM

What is a second starter? 

No anti theft on my Jeep (was an option).   Dumb question - I guess all the outputs are required because with the key in the off position (during remote start operation), the circuits are not powered (heat, etc.)?

I only have the inputs and outputs listed in my first post.  What are speed sense, and reverse lights used for in a remote starter install? 

Thanks again.

Jason





Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: October 01, 2009 at 11:39 AM
None of these wires you mentioned apply to you...You will need to power up the HVAC in order for the heater to blow...The 2nd starter is for newer dodge's...nissan's...etc...Again it does not apply in your situation...

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!




Posted By: puzzleboy
Date Posted: October 01, 2009 at 11:41 AM

Ignition key is black.  Thanks for the info on the locks.  I'd heard that the DEI module was the way to go, but I don't care too much about the locks.  Might do it later. 

Thanks for your help.  I've worked a lot on cars, but never done a generic remote starter system before. 





Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: October 01, 2009 at 11:42 AM
The module for the door locks is waayyy easier...for sure...! Also you do have 2 Accessory wires...Usually you need only to power one up for HVAC...You could use the selectable output to power up 2nd Accessory...Again...in this situation...i think by powering up 2nd Acc...The only outcome would be the radio/other Accesories would be on during the remote start...On some vehicles it IS necessary to power up both Acc's...As not to turn on check engine lights...IE...Did a ford taurus that kept setting off the check engine light...The 2nd Accessory needed to be powered for the gas gauge...Again i dont think/remember this applying to your vehicle...!

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!




Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: October 01, 2009 at 11:47 AM
And Your Welcome...!

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!




Posted By: puzzleboy
Date Posted: October 01, 2009 at 11:51 AM

On the wiring diagrams I've got from a few sites, it says that the wire I'm using at the PCM for my tach signal is a "2 cylinder signal".  What does this mean, and does it matter?  I've already hooked this up and I get 12 volts when the engine is running. 

Thanks!





Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: October 01, 2009 at 11:53 AM

I dont think this applies to you...Did you do the tach learn sequence...Did it work...?



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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!




Posted By: puzzleboy
Date Posted: October 01, 2009 at 12:01 PM

I'm finishing the wiring tonight.  I did the tach wire and hood pin switch last night, today I'll finish up the dash connections.  Tach should auto learn. 

For the parking lights, there's a shortcut I found on this site which wraps a wire around the terminal of the vehicle's parking light relay.  This saves needing another relay.  This is negative (-), I'm pretty sure.  Just don't want to fry my BCM or anything.....  :)

I think I'm o.k. with everything else! 

Jason





Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: October 01, 2009 at 2:05 PM
Ive never used that specific model Ultra Start...On some other models you have to do a tach learn sequence in order for the unit to learn tach...But if it is an auto-learn...Great...!

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!




Posted By: puzzleboy
Date Posted: October 03, 2009 at 12:41 PM

Does anyone know if using the DirectTech Jeep Grand Cherokee parking light procedure on this site (where you wrap the wire directly around the vehicle's parking light relay), is with a - or + parking light output from a remote start?  The sheet doesn't clearly say, and according to their website, the output is switchable from negative to positive.  On my Ultra Start, there is an independent wire for negative and positive parking light output. 

Basically, I need to know if I connect my negative output wire from the brain to the terminal on the relay. 

Thanks! 





Posted By: puzzleboy
Date Posted: October 05, 2009 at 10:38 AM

Thanks for all your help Tommy.   Install went fine, tach auto learned, RS works fine. 

The only last thing I'm trying to figure out, is the parking light output.  My Ultra has a negative and positive output.  I know if I were tap in at the headlight switch with a resistor, I would use the negative output.  But I instead used the procedure of tapping in at the vehicle's relay, which negates the reqmt. for adding a resistor, relay etc.  Do you know which output would be used from my Ultra for hooking up the parking lights in this way? 

Thanks! 





Posted By: puzzleboy
Date Posted: October 05, 2009 at 1:21 PM

Found my answer by searching all the posts.  - Negative trigger also at the relay

The remote start works fine.  Tach is auto learned.  Does any other programming (crank time, etc.) need to be done?  I'm assuming the tach wire is what tells the brain to stop cranking anyway, once a certain RPM is reached?  So basically, the remote starter will crank up until the maximum program time set in the brain (3s, 5s, 10s etc.)?

Thanks!





Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: October 05, 2009 at 5:46 PM
Good Stuff...Congrats...!

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!




Posted By: puzzleboy
Date Posted: October 06, 2009 at 1:57 PM

Thanks Tommy!  There's one more small issue I'm not sure about.  On the advice of a tip sheet on this site (I think it was from Auto Command), I removed a terminal (87a) on the parking light relay.  But as it turns out, a negative trigger hooks into a different terminal (86) than what was stated on the tip sheet (30).  I assume then that the tip sheet is for a positive trigger? 

My starter and parking lights work fine, even though the relay has a missing terminal.  Any problem, or do I have to install a new relay? 





Posted By: xtremej
Date Posted: October 07, 2009 at 3:59 PM

Grab a meter and verify before you fry.






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