Printer Friendly Forum Posts - g35 sedan having lock/unlock wiring issue

I have a clifford matrix 50.5x

I was attempting to wire the lock/unlock harness into the following ..

Driver Mtr Unlock YELLOW (REV) PIN 30 IN WHT PLUG AT BCM
Driver Mtr Lock VIOLET (REV) PIN 23 IN WHT PLUG AT BCM

but no cigar. Nothing happens! Those are the right wires! The door trigger is fine, siren runs off fine, everything is fine but the car won't lock or unlock.

I honestly don't have access to a bitwriter and I was told my car requires two pulses could that really be the issue?

Those are the actuator wires - they will work, but you need to 5 wire them.

However, you should go in to the doors and hit the (-) lock/unlock wires at the power window switch. That is also the only way to arm/disarm the system so it's pretty important. Lastly, the best reason to go in to the doors, is so you can hook the window up/down feature up to the aftermarket alarm (just extend the (-) triggers on the lock/unlock wires).

You will need a double pulse to unlock the doors.

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Kevin Pierson

NISSDL - Nissan & Infinty Doorlock Alarm Interface

	Power Unlock		BLUE/WHITE		(-)		AT SWITCH IN DRIVERS DOOR...NEEDS DOUBLE PULSE
	PowerLock		RED / WHITE		(-)		AT SWITCH IN DRIVERS DOOR

This is for 05...Since no year was posted...

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

KPierson wrote:

Those are the actuator wires - they will work, but you need to 5 wire them.

However, you should go in to the doors and hit the (-) lock/unlock wires at the power window switch. That is also the only way to arm/disarm the system so it's pretty important. Lastly, the best reason to go in to the doors, is so you can hook the window up/down feature up to the aftermarket alarm (just extend the (-) triggers on the lock/unlock wires).

You will need a double pulse to unlock the doors.

Sorry, but you mean I should put the wires into my door and wire it up to the lock/unlock at the power window switch right? What do you mean by its the only way to arm/disarm the alarm?

Also, I was running through to find the wires and i accidently sent a charge into the unlock wire at the BCM. Did I just fry my actuator motor or did I fry just the wire? (Someone kept talking to me and distracting me and I sent a charge) Now my driver door unlocks but doesnt lock back up using the door or keyfob.

Sorry, I'm still a "rookie" member, it won't let me edit my post. I tried checking the fuses, none of are blown.

You either blew a fuse, or fried a trace on a circuit board. Burned out trace could be in the BCM, or possibly at the drivers door lock switch. Most cars have 2 or more fuse boxes. You check all of them?

It won't be a fuse, it will have to be a trace inside the BCM. I believe in a different thread you said your car was a 1st gen G sedan, so your BCM is in the drivers kick (right where you were probing most likely). Pop it out of the car and take it apart. Inside you'll find about 5 relays, 3 will be roughly the same size - these 3 are the door lock relays (1 lock, 2 unlock). Look for a burnt trace going from the NC contact of the relay to ground - it should be fairly obvious.

That's typically the issue - I don't think I've ever heard of anyone frying a BCM doing what you did. If you did, it's about a $400 dealer part (much cheaper at a junk yard I would believe). However, you have to admit there is a certain irony when someone tries to save $200 by installing something they've never installed and in the process damage a $400 part. :)

I have a BCM out of an '05 coupe sitting in my garage - if it can help you in any way it is for sale!

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Kevin Pierson

JWorm] wrote:

ou either blew a fuse, or fried a trace on a circuit board. Burned out trace could be in the BCM, or possibly at the drivers door lock switch. Most cars have 2 or more fuse boxes. You check all of them?

In the G35 (and most other newer Nissans) the door lock actuators aren't tied to the door lock switches. Instead, each door lock switch has its own circuit board and the boards send serial communications back to the BCM. When you pulse the "unlock" wire in the door the power window module turns that pulse in to a serial signal to the BCM, the BCM reads it and then fires its internal relays to unlock the doors. Its an overly complicated setup, but a pretty cool setup at the same time. My guess would be that they did this to reduce wire and weight, as high current actuator wires are replaced with a single small wire.

To the OP, when I said to arm and disarm the alarm I was referring to the OEM alarm. It will arm whenever locking the doors with the key and possibly whenever locking the doors with the power door lock switch when the car is off.

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Kevin Pierson

damn, i love this forum! I'll keep you guys updated. Yeah I sent a charge to the yellow unlock wire i'll look for the circuit board or trace i probably fried.

Alright, sorry to bump an old thread but I found the wires to lock and unlock the doors. My car locks, but doesn't unlock. Could it be a double pulse issue? I am not sure, everything is wired okay there is current going threw. Would I need a bittwriter to set my alarm to a double pulse? Or is there any shortcurt around it? If so, where do I get a bittwriter from?

Double pulses are required for unlock. You should be able to program your alarm to double pulse without a bitwriter.

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Kevin Pierson

1. The install guide with the alarm/starter shows how to program the features without a BitWriter. You don't need it to do double pulse locks.

2. You could have done the doorlocks like this:
https://www.audiogroupforum.com/csforum/showthread.php?t=10529

3. From what you said, you applied positive power (unfused???) to one of the car's doorlock motor wires.

You've probably blown out the part that makes that wire rest at ground. But maybe, with some luck, it still at least puts out a positive pulse when you hit the door locks.

First, TEST the wire to see what it has at rest, and then test it again to see what it has when you're operating the locks.

(You'll need a meter or test light for this, as well as the knowledge of how to test wires for power as well as for ground.)

Test all three doorlock motor wires from the BCM: Lock Motor, Driver Unlock Motor, and Passenger Unlock Motor (sometimes called "disarm defeat").

Post back with results of all three wires, stating which rest at ground and which don't......and which make a positive pulse when operating the car's power doorlocks.

If you can't repair the burnt trace on the circuit board as the other poster mentioned......you can sometimes make a repair by wiring external relays.

Sweet, I did my doorlocks like that, as for the whole double pulse unlock, I can't figure out how to get it to do a double pulse. Any ideas? I am going to take apart my BCM when I have a bit more time I can't go too long without a car haha.

I believe my car is already sending a double pulse, when I press the unlock twice it chirps twice. Does that mean it's already at a double pulse? My door is still not unlocking..

Two chirps doesn't mean a double pulse unlock.

If the BCM is damaged and your doors won't unlock with the OEM switch your alarm isn't going to be able to unlock the doors either (unless you 5 wire them). The (-) pulse tells the BCM to fire the relays - if your BCM is damaged this obviously won't do anything. You need to focus on repairing / replacing the BCM before the alarm will be able to unlock the doors.

The major disadvantage about doing the door locks as Chris suggested is you won't be able to rasie and lower the windows with the alarm by simply extending the (-) triggers on the lock and unlock wires. To me personally, this is well worth the hassle of getting wires inside the doors.

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Kevin Pierson

Ahhh..well the oem switch will unlock and lock all the doors but it wont lock the driver side door. That's all. I can lock/unlock everything just fine, but its just the driver side door will not lock.

It seems that you are basing some things on assumptions and hopes.

For us to help you, you need to test the wires mentioned above, and post back with results.

I'm speaking from my experience here!

On the generation of nissans before the latest one, the actuator motors were all tied in to unlock, but all doors except the driver's door was tied in with the lock circuit a separate circuit controlled this, hence you could unlock all doors if they were all locked, but only lock all except the driver's door using the negative trigger wires.

So actually there is no burnt trace on any if his BCM's, or else none of the actuators woud have functioned, all he has to do is locate his lock motor wire from the driver's door and connect this to the lock motor wire from the other doors and he would be set, since the trigger wires are already connected, this would also allow the rocker control to lock and unlock all four doors!

The way the current gen Nissans work is they have a common LOCK wire and seperate UNLOCK wires. This is solely for priority door locks. The drivers door and the gas door are on one UNLOCK circuit and the passenger door(s) are on the other. He has burnt up the trace on the drivers door UNLOCK relay. Since there is no ground on the UNLOCK wire when the LOCK output turns on the actuator isn't seeing a ground so the drivers door isn't locking. However, when you hit the UNLOCK button the burnt trace is switched to 12vdc and the door unlocks.

I can pretty much guarentee his problem is a burnt trace on the BCM board and should be an easy fix.

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Kevin Pierson

Point taken kevin! It's actually reversed on my side of the pond, the unlock is on a common circuit and the lock on a separate circuit! In any event if he took the lock motor wire on the driver door to the other lock motor wires he should achieve the same end result!

Also kevin, i'm confused, the burnt trace won't allow the leg to see ground but current still flows through!

Think about a standard 5 wire door locking relay setup (which is what the BCM is doing).

On the UNLOCK relay pin 87A that is connected to ground is no longer connected to ground. When you unlock the doors the UNLOCK relay is energized and 30 (actuator output) connects to 87 (12vdc) eliminating the burn trace from the circuit.

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Kevin Pierson

Yup, i thought about it last night, my apologies for the dumb question! posted_image

Not a dumb question at all!

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Kevin Pierson

Sorry for bumping ANOTHER old post but I finally pulled out the BCM and took a look at it. Nothing looks fried? I hear a click noise coming from relay 3 I believe, and all the doors unlock, 3 doors lock but my driver door doesn't lock back. (I accidently sent a 12v to the wrong wire lol.)

Update: I took a picture to show everyone, it was actually relay 2 that is clicking when I press lock or unlock. I checked the fuses 3 times, and no fuses are blown.

posted_image

The part that would be damaged is the trace between the relay and the connector. Since the connectors sit on top of the board it is hard to see if there is any damage.

What you will need to do is get the service manual and find all three lock/unlock wires. You can then trace them back to the correct relays and make sure all relays still rest at ground. From memory I thought all three door lock relays were the same size, but it looks like you have two small and one big. That would make me assume the big is the lock (since it is common) and the two little ones are the unlock relays (one would be for the drivers door the other the passenger door(s).

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Kevin Pierson

I didn't reread the thread but I think my above post is wrong - I think the damaged pin would be on the NC contact of the relay.

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Kevin Pierson

KPierson wrote:

I didn't reread the thread but I think my above post is wrong - I think the damaged pin would be on the NC contact of the relay.

NC Contact of the relay? What do you mean? And I visited your site, very helpful btw.

There should be 5 pins per relay - two coil pins, a common pin, a NO (normally open)pin and a NC (normally closed)pin. The NC pin should be grounded as the door lock actuators rest at ground. If you can find a pinout of the two small relays you should be able to locate the NC pin and make sure they are both still grounded. The common pin of the relay should be connected to the actuator outputs (just to verify they are the correct relays).

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Kevin Pierson

Hmmm, I probed relay 3, the two soldered points I can reach because my needle is too big. It rests at 0, then sends a 12v when I unlock the door. Although on relay 2, the 2 pins on the side I can reach it rests at 0, but when I unlock/lock the door, it does nothing. Is relay 2 the issue? If so, would I have to take off relay 2 and resolder it? I would take it to a local mobile shop but they would tear a new hole in my wallet.

I was not able to reach relay 1 as it's between the 2 other relays and my needle is too big to fit inbetween it.

Update: I checked out relay 2 again, the solder point 1 is constantly giving 12v so it's not ground at rest. What should I do?

First thing - I would NOT be probing the BCM with power applied to it - you are just asking to damage things even more by accidently shorting pins together. You should be able to do all the testing outside of the car with an ohm meter.

How big is your "needle" if you can't probe relay contacts? That, too, has me concerned.

Like I said in my previous post, if you look up the data sheet for the relays you should be able to find out what pin does what, and then verify all those signals are present (by ohming them out, not voltage testing).

Com - output pin to actuators
NC - ground
NO - 12vdc

You really may want to consider taking it to a mobile shop and beg them to take a look at it. Paying them $100 to fix your mistake now will still be cheaper then paying $500 plus dealer programming to replace the BCM.

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Kevin Pierson

KPierson wrote:

First thing - I would NOT be probing the BCM with power applied to it - you are just asking to damage things even more by accidently shorting pins together. You should be able to do all the testing outside of the car with an ohm meter.

How big is your "needle" if you can't probe relay contacts? That, too, has me concerned.

Like I said in my previous post, if you look up the data sheet for the relays you should be able to find out what pin does what, and then verify all those signals are present (by ohming them out, not voltage testing).

Com - output pin to actuators
NC - ground
NO - 12vdc

You really may want to consider taking it to a mobile shop and beg them to take a look at it. Paying them $100 to fix your mistake now will still be cheaper then paying $500 plus dealer programming to replace the BCM.

I tried searching for the diagram, where would I be able to find one? I searched your website, but it only took me to the pinouts.

You would have to get the part number off the relay and search on the internet.

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Kevin Pierson

KPierson wrote:

You would have to get the part number off the relay and search on the internet.

(Follow up for anyone else with this issue) Popped the circuit board and looked under it, a trace was burned the relays were fine though. Just bridged it back together and it works fine now.