rs starts and dies
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=116768
Printed Date: June 08, 2024 at 4:49 PM
Topic: rs starts and dies
Posted By: christopherrice
Subject: rs starts and dies
Date Posted: October 06, 2009 at 10:59 PM
Viper 5901 2 way RS, iDatalink ADS-DLSL CH3 in a 2006 Jeep Commander Alarm and door functions works great. Programmed the transponder and started the vehicle with the transponder in an empty key fob. Worked fine. Finished all the install programming. Viper system is on automatic trans, tried tach then virtual tach. Starts up, runs for a few seconds and then dies. Tried auto starting with the key in the ignition and the gauges read out "key not programmed" " bad or damaged key". yet afterwards starting with just my keys, it worked fine. I also tried the jumper for the lower ignition voltage setting (tach threshold). The idatalink is hardwired, programmed as hardwired and the viper brain is set at onboard d2d. Came factory set at external d2d. Im am not using rs232 or d2d cables. Any ideas? I have been wondering if it has to do with the idatalink running the tach wire or what setting the tach should be on to run it through the idatalink. The transponder loop is wrapped 4 times around the factory immobilzer coil. Im wondering if the loop is too far from the key cylinder. Any help is much appreciated.
Replies:
Posted By: KPierson
Date Posted: October 07, 2009 at 8:36 AM
Start the vehicle with the key, then remote start the vehicle, then remove the keys from the cylinder. If the car continues to run you have an alarm bypass issue, if the vehicle dies you have a tach issue. I ALWAYS hard wire the tach wire. ------------- Kevin Pierson
Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: October 07, 2009 at 4:45 PM
On Chrysler i usually wrap 4 times and wire tie it directly to the outside edge of the the factory ring. I've used the Idatalink tach a few times for Chrysler with no problems but you could run a temporary wire from a coil and set tach again to check it. My guess is you followed the Idata manual 907 type7? You connected the yellow multiplex and the BLACK/ white starter wires? Does the factory immobilizer light go out or start to flash when it starts?
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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Posted By: christopherrice
Date Posted: October 07, 2009 at 6:37 PM
I used the 906 type 7. the multiplex was to be hooked to PURPLE / brown. i didnt see any BLACK/ white wires when i was at the ignition. the PURPLE / brown it called for looked more like pruple/orange in the car. as for starting and pulling the key. it stays running when i pull the key, if i insert the key again, turn to on position and hit the brake pedal, the cluster reads "key not programmed" "bad or damaged key" and the security light blinks but stays running. as for remote starting the dash does not light up and the security light never comes on. the transponder loop is wrapped 4 times on the outside of the oem plastic coil.
Posted By: christopherrice
Date Posted: October 07, 2009 at 7:30 PM
Ok. Figured out a good portion of it. Im almost positive its the multiplex wire. My relay clicks on when the remote start button is pressed. No dash lights come on when starting. If I put the key in the ignition and dont turn it, it remote starts and dies. If I turn the key to the on position and remote start it, it runs fine with the dash lights on and no security light. I tested the voltages at the relays and this is what I got... Yellow from iDataLink - 0.5v constant before and during start. (Pin 30)
12v Constant - 12.43v constant (Pin 86)
PURPLE / Orange Ignition Switch - 0.0v before start, 0.5v during start. (Pin 87) Here is the wiring I have... Ignition Switch
Pink/Light Green (Ignition)
Pink/Orange (RS Starter Wires)
PURPLE / Orange (Hooked to multiplex relay)
PURPLE / Black
Light Blue/Red (Constant 12V) Multiplex Relay
GWR (Diode isolated 1N4001 and to relay pin 85)
12V (Pin 86)
Yellow Multiplex Output (Pin 30)
PURPLE / Orange Ignition Switch (Pin 87)
Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: October 07, 2009 at 7:45 PM
Sorry, but i can't find doc 906 nor does it list that as the correct doc for your car and module. Doc 907 is correct, or you can use 1221 without the relay. You have a BLACK/ white on the module that needs to connect to the starter wire along with the starter wire from the RS. Did you do this? Did you connect the pink/green ignition wire to the RS? Also, i remember looking at a Jeep before and the wire colors were hard to be sure of like you describe. Is there any other purple wires on the ignition switch? Bottom line is the dash should light when you try to start it and the only two things that do this are multiplex and/or the pink/green.. ------------- Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Posted By: christopherrice
Date Posted: October 07, 2009 at 8:38 PM
The document I got was 906. The type 7 install on it is identical to 1221. Yes I hooked the BLACK/ White wire to the violet (output) starter wire on the RS and then both to the car side of the starter wire. Pink/Green is connected as well. The only other purple wires on the ignition switch is PURPLE / black. AS I noted above. The yellow multiplex wire is giving off 0.5v. is that a correct voltage? On the vehicle starter wire, the side hooked to the ignition switch is key side and the other is car side... Im pretty sure Im correct on that. Figured thats a hard one to mess up. The way Im seeing, it seems as if there is no accessory power which I understand is the multiplex system. It starts, so Id assume my starter wires are correct. Also Id assume my main power wires are correct considering I have power to the RS and iDatalink. My relay works, I rechecked the relay wiring and that is correct. Im only unsure of the PURPLE / brown wire they call for on the ignition switch which I only find PURPLE / orange or PURPLE / black.
Posted By: christopherrice
Date Posted: October 07, 2009 at 8:56 PM
* Update Tested the ignition switch PURPLE / Orange (Had my multiplex wire to this) and it showed 0.0v. Tested continuity with ground and it was confirmed as ground. The multiplex wire on the idatalink puts out 0.5v. Im thinking the only other wire left to try is the ignition switch PURPLE / black. I will test it to see what voltage I get while the vehicle is running. Any input on what wire to use for my multiplex hookup?
Posted By: christopherrice
Date Posted: October 08, 2009 at 7:01 PM
Probelm fixed. Anyone wondering in the future, it was the confusion of the PURPLE / orange and PURPLE / black wires on the ignition. Correct wire to use is PURPLE / black
Posted By: boxhead78
Date Posted: October 08, 2009 at 9:48 PM
it's gonna be lot but you have to get a new transponder and get reprogramed
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boxead78
Posted By: christopherrice
Date Posted: October 10, 2009 at 9:37 AM
boxhead78 wrote:
it's gonna be lot but you have to get a new transponder and get reprogramed
What? Did you read the post above yours?
Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: November 13, 2009 at 10:46 PM
christopherrice,
I think that most likely it was a PURPLE / brown wire you connected to in the end, but it is as you've said really hard to distinguish the brown from black. I've found a PURPLE / orange on Chryslers which is the ground input for the mux part of the ignition switch.
Glad you got it all figured out.
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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
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