2006 mazda2 central locking diagram?

Hi all,
I've just purchased a 2006 Mazda2 (Australia). It's the Neo plus factory central locking / power windows.

I want to fit a keyless entry remote (lots of cheap ones on eBay etc), but I need a wiring diagram. I have searched the database and came up blank.

Removing the driver's side door lining, I found the connector for the door lock actuator. There are 5 wires on a 6 pin block.

1. Red
2. RED / Black
3. [gap]
4. Orange
5. WHITE/ Black
6. Black

All I have been able to make out so far is that Orange seems to be open cct when unlocked and ground when locked, and WHITE/ Black seems to be open cct when locked and ground when unlocked. No idea if these will need a relay or pull down resistor.

I haven't yet located the central locking unit, or another convenient place to get 12V supply with ignition off.

Anyone have a wiring diagram, or can shed light on the central locking circuit in general?

Any help appreciated.


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The best things in life aren't things.

I can't find anything either. You could try grounding either of those two wire with the door latched over to see if anything happens. The worst case is you will blow a fuse. Those vehicles here are rebadged Ford Fiestas but the wiring sounds different. The Fiesta of that vintage (UK spec R/Hand drive) uses a GEM box in lower dash, r/hand side of steering column with BLACK/ orange and BLACK/ green lock and unlock. Low current neg. The other trick is to find the 2 wires that sit on ground and one will flah pos on lock, the other will flash pos on unlock. These are your motor wires. If you feed them from the driver kickwell as a 5 wire set-up = drive existing actuator, you should get a result.

Further investigation today...

By removing the front passenger door lining, I found it has only two actuator wires, the top two, Red & Red Black. It seems reasonable to assume that is their function on the driver's door too.

I also measured voltage at the Orange & WHITE/ Black wires. These are either at ground or ~2.5V at rest, and opposite state (see above). Grounding either wire will not cause them to change state - nothing happens. There doesn't appear to be a simple switch activated by the key or lock. My guess is that the back EMF from the actuator is sensed by the Central Locking Unit which then generates the appropriate pulse on the actuator drive wires.

I think the Black wire is always ground.

I also found what appears to be the central locking unit up on the right wall of the drivers footwell. Unfortunately I can't see how to remove it easily, and it is very inaccessible. I would love to pull it out and see if I can deduce the circuit. My guess, given by the number of empty pins on the plug that the keyless entry on the higher models would plug in here, so it's frustrating not being able to find a circuit diagram.

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The best things in life aren't things.

There is no switch on the drivers door - that might have made it a bit easier.

What do you mean by "multiplex"?

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The best things in life aren't things.

Another update.

It turns out the orange and WHITE/ black wires are actually negative trigger, but I need to unplug the connector to trigger with ground. Orange to lock, WHITE/ black to unlock. Looks like I will need to relay through to the door actuator so that it disconnects actuator connector while grounding the wire.

Now (in theory) the only thing left to come up with is where to find a parking light or similar for flash on lock/unlock. That could be tricky.

Of course there's a lot of actual work to do still - this is all just discovery so far.

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The best things in life aren't things.

Glad you sorted that, forget lights, were not in North America, go to indcators, check the colours  at the rear lights and follow forward. Betcha they aren't in the steeering column leads because it's all data.

Cheers howie ll. It's probably a bit more work but it would be nice to drive the indicators.

A little work this evening trying to get away with the relays built into the Keyless Entry. No dice. I tried two different wiring configs, but it looks like I have to isolate all three wires from the door when triggering remotely (it works on both configs with driver's door actuator unplugged, but not when plugged in). Unfortunately that means more relays, more bulk and more patches to an already badly hacked wiring loom with no slack

I'll have a think about it overnight and have another go tomorrow.

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The best things in life aren't things.

I'm not ignoring you, I'm watching your comments, we have to look after the colonies. Did you find the motor wires?  Why can 't you just fire them off the alarm, assuming it has relay driven lock wires (ie 5 or 6 outputs instead of 2). Assuming locking the driver's door via the latch switch or button wil lock the other doors.

There is no lock switch - it triggers off drivers side key lock only. At the moment it all works unless I plug in the connector to driver's door. I think I have it down to just the black wire needing to be interrupted from driver's door. My beer coaster relay cct last night was a bit hasty. I effectively had the switches in parallel instead of series so it wasn't interrupting black at all. I will redo this morning, and hopefully it will be sorted.

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The best things in life aren't things.

Well, I'm going to have to put this project away for a few weekends after a frustrating day of ups and downs.

Here are the lessons learned for those of you playing at home, or who might be in the future.

This morning I rewired the relays correctly in series to interrupt the black wire that goes from the Central Locking Unit (CLU) to the driver's door actuator. And then nothing worked.    This didn't make a lot of sense, until I realised (after a lot of trouble shooting) that the ground on that wire is somewhere else in the wiring harness, and so I was not interrupting the ground to the door actuator at all.

Next I traced the wiring loom and was lucky enough to spot the relevant wire passing near to where I was installing the RKE receiver. Taking a punt that this was correct (since it was a ground wire and there are many with exactly the same markings) I separated it enough to snip it and meter it, and confirm I had now isolated ground from door actuator. Adding in some extra cable of sufficient gauge (as a common ground it was ~10A and I didn't want to be the weak link) I re-routed it through my relay logic and everything worked. I could now lock and unlock the door using the new remote or the driver's side door lock.

So before I secured all the new wires and the RKE unit in the driver's foot well, I put the door lining back on and tested the power windows, and they were not working properly. The back windows were slow, front passenger window was not working and driver's window stuttered. Perhaps my new earth circuit via the relay path in the RKE unit was causing a voltage drop under load? Out of frustration, I removed all my work and put the central locking back to the way it was before I started - only to find the problem persisted. Maybe I'd damaged something.

When the CD player died, I realised that I'd been working on the car for nearly two days with the stereo on and for the first few hours with the interior light on. I tried to start the car, and it wouldn't quite turn over. Arrghh I'd undone all that work for a flat battery.

I hooked up the battery charger, while I set about rewiring from scratch. This time it was much quicker and neater, because I had a nicely documented circuit in front of me, and knew how long / short to cut things, where I could splice, etc.

Finally when I started the car so I had a good 12V supply, every thing worked perfectly, RKE, power windows, stereo. It was all good, or so I thought...

I neatly wrapped the new wiring loom, piggy backed the RKE to the existing CLU (almost identical size boxes) with some adhesive velcro tape, reinstalled all the trim, and packed up all my tools. When I came back the RKE wouldn't open the locks!

I could hear the relays clicking but the doors weren't responding. The driver's key lock still worked all actuators as did the driver's internal lock. Put the key in the ignition and turn it to "on" and everything worked. Take it out and it worked for about a minute.

So it seems that the anti theft unit shuts down the CLU about a minute after the key is removed from the ignition. So all that work, and hacking the wiring loom, and this approach was never going to work!

Now I'm wishing I had taken howie ll's advice and simply dodged the trigger, by driving the actuators directly, bypassing the CLU. Unfortunately, I don't have another free weekend for a while now, but I'll be sure to post my adventures for your continued entertainment. Perhaps it will save some other poor soul from the same frustration.

Cheers

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The best things in life aren't things.