remote start bitwriter locked out?

I have an Avital 4103 (DEI) + 555x and things seem okay, starts and stays on.

I need to program the unit for tach mode but I can't seem to get into any of the features. I've done several of these in the past and the programming seems the same. But I've searched/read that there is some new Bitwriter device that can program and even lock people out of "old school" programming.

How can I tell if I've been locked out? When I try programming *any* feature it allways blinks once, then a short delay, then two more blinks. If I go and press lock at that point the unit tries to lock the doors. So it's like it never went into program mode.

Another reason I think the unit has been programmed is the horn blows every time I remote start, and by default the horn is supposed to be off.

bit writer should never get locked out, lock out is for manual programming to keep customers from changing programming on you, to program tach hook up tach wire and start vehicle with the key and within 5 seconds press and hold the programming button till light illuminates solid, then go in and make sure you have set for tach
(factory default is virtual tach i believe)

Yeah I understand the Bitwriter can't get locked out. I don't have a bitwriter, I am doing manual programming via valet button.

I did the tach learn already but I can't get into feature 1 for setting it in tach mode. For that matter I can't get it into any other feature as well. Just blinks once, delays, then 2 blinks for any attempt into getting into program mode.

Thing is I think it's been programmed before being that I can't get into manual programming and the horn is on whenever I remote start. That horn is really driving me crazy, have to turn that one off too.

sorry off topic but what is virtual tach????

virtual tach is new for dei which monitors voltage while cranking. when voltage goes up it assumes the engine has turned over and the alternator is now generating power. at that point it stops cranking instead of the fixed time method in the older units.

search on it seems pretty good but some people say occasionally doesn't work and tach method is the most reliable. tach wire easy for me to hook up so i've wired into it, otherwise i'd probably go with virtual tach.

You are definately locked out of manual programming.  Get a bitwriter, dump or erase the files and start again. Don't know why people do this, especially when the DEI LCD remotes need changing so often.

it may have been previously installed or attempted to install or quite possible a screwup from nu-tech when they built it and its locked out of manual prgramming, i have had a couple avital units that the instructions were backwards for programming( i.e. constant pk lites should have been 2 chirps/flashes yet instructions said 1 it also should have been constant lites as default yet it came as flashing)youll need to get access to a bitwriter to at the least unlock programming

Virual tach, monitors the time it takes for the keys to turn the engine over, ever so often, and adjusts it's crank time accordingly, more like a smart voltage, than tach, the way mr.lorenzanaj, described is the way voltage sense works.

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I'm pretty sure I described virtual tach.... I double checked and..

Per the online manual:

Virtual tach: Virtual Tach is a new feature for Directed this year. It is the default RPM-sensing method for new remote start systems. Virtual Tach gives the installer the performance of a hardwired tach wire, with the convenience of voltage sensing. It is far superior to any voltage-sense feature you’ve tried before.
Virtual Tach monitors the cranking voltage of the vehicle using a very
fast micro-controller and an analog-to-digital converter. The microprocessor “saves” the base voltage as a reference. When Virtual Tach “sees” the slightest uptick in voltage, indicating that the alternator is charging the battery, the starter motor shuts off instantly.

The "old school" voltage sense: When set to voltage, (2) the unit cranks the starter for the programmed time and then attempts to sense that the engine is running by detecting an increase in voltage.

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Personal comment:
So the "old school" voltage sense will crank for X seconds, then stop cranking. Then it looks at your the battery voltage. If it doesn't look like its near 14vdc (this is the charging voltage from the alternator) then it will crank again. Old school stunk because in winter you need a longer crank time so if you relied on voltage sense it would try 2-3 times until it started. I hate voltage sense. The way around this was to have it crank for 2 sec but during summer where you only need 0.6 sec it would keep cranking and sound like your 5yr old was starting the car.