hood switch, 2003 ford explorer sport

2003 Ford Explore Sport (2 door model...not Sport trac).

Has a Ford installed Powercode remote start which isnt working correctly. Vehicle is responding to pressing the remote as parking lights flash and I get 2 honks of the horn... but starter does not engage. It tries 3 more times by itself with no subsequent engagement...then that appears to shut off the cycle. From searching the net...it sounds like its not recognizing the hood is shut. Assume that it's the hood switch. If i understand it correctly...the hood switch provides a path to ground when the hood is closed and this allows the starter to engage. To check the hood switch I assume that you can take if off and check it out with an ohm meter. I believe that the switch should have continuity when the switch is in a position similar to the hood closed and there should be no continuity when the switch is held in a position similar to the hood in the open position. Are these assumptions correct. Thanks in advance,
       Geo.

try cutting the hood pin wire (for testing only) it will start with it disconnected the 2 beeps usually mean either hood open or in valet mode   which ford system is it ?   any numbers on it ?

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Most RS units are made in a way that if the hood is open absolutely nothing will happen, including light flashes and honks(nor would it try to go 3 times). Are the dash lights coming on(check engine, airbag, etc.) just no crank? If so you probably have a key code issue...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

ford code systems beep twice when the hood is open or the system is in valet but your right mike about it trying 3 times it wont do that i should have red the whole post rather than just skimming through. what does the theft light do when you try to remote start it ?

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Thanks for the replies... Don't have the vehicle with me at the moment (am at work and wife has it). I believe its the Powercode silver system. I did open the wire at the butt connector between the one wire going to the hood switch and directly grounded the wire that went to the hood switch to the battery ground. Thought that would eliminate the hood switch and the possiblility of a bad ground wire/connection that goes to a sheet metal screw on the firewall. Will check the status of the theft light and report back tonight or tomorrow. (Also, I did check to make sure that the unit was not in "valet mode".)
       Geo.

if you ground the wire that goes to the hood pin it wont remote start


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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

its more than likely a bypass issue for the key. if hoods open it wont even acknowledge a remote start input from the remote, my moneys on it being the bypass either failed or shifted and isnt being recognized by the vhicle, security light is probably flashing rapidly when trying to remote start(signaling no valid key signal)

Went ahead and tested the hood switch to check out its operation. Using an ohm meter...I found that the switch had continuity when the hood is in the open position. This effectively supplies a ground connection when the hood is open. Conversely...when the hood is down...there is no continuity through the switch which effectively opens the ground connection. So, correct me if I'm wrong...but it looks like you don't want a ground signal through the hood switch when the hood is closed so the remote start will operate and you do want a ground signal whne the hood is opened so the remote start will not work. Have I got this right?

Put it back together and I now only get one beep on the horn ...the parking lights/dash lights light up and you notice that the starter does not engage. It tries to do this for another 3 cyles without sucess. The dash theft light does flash rapidly during the cycling. I suppose my next course of action will be to insert the key into the ignition...then see if the remote works. If it does then work...it sounds like it's a bypass problem. Do appreciate your replies and feedback...
Geo

If the factory security light flashes fast when it should crank you are not bypassing the immobilizer(key code issue). Try the key in the ignition and see if that works. You are correct about the hood switch.

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Thanks Mike,

I'll try putting the key in the ignition tonite and see if it then\ works. If it does then work...you say it's a key code issue. What would be the next course of action. The key works fine in the ignition switch so I assume the remote module is not recognizing the signal from the key?
Thanks,
Geo.

Also,,,if I recall correctly...when we had the system installed, I believe they needed the 2nd key so they could replicate a third one for the bypass. I take it that there must be a third key that they inserted into the remote module or by-pass unit? Is there an actual 3rd key inserted into the remote module or is there a 2nd by-pass module under the dash that the 3rd key is inserted into? I assume if this 3rd key is bad...I can replicate another one using both the original keys and then inserting the newly replicated key into the remote module or by-pass unit?
Thanks again,
Geo

Ref the original post. Most hood switches go to ground when the hood is opened, thus sending a neg signal to the R/S unit preventing the start. Ford switches are the other way round. Grounded when hood closed and open circuit when hood opened. Just wire in a normal ,i.e. aftermarket hood switch and connect your R/S.

they either programmed a 3rd key and laced it in a universal bypass (coffin) box, or they programmed a designed pellet( i.e. dei 555f or the like) either way its either that bypass has failed( needs replaced? which i have vary rarely seen), or the pellet/ring has shifted and the car cant read the chip any longer, or the output from remote start whih energizes the chip has defected, if your not familiar with installations your best course of action would be to have a qualified installer check it out for you, there are many variables for someone unexperienced to be checking themselves
but if the remote start works with the key in ign then its definately a bypass issue which i believe it to be

Just got home and tried the remote start with the key in the ignition and sure enough the remote start worked. At least now I know that its a bypass problem. Just for my own curiosity I'll look under the dash and see if there are any loose connections or can see anything obviously out of place. I would like to see if its indeed a 3rd key in a "coffin" as Jim called it. Just interested in how this system works. My wife wants it operational before the Maine winter begins...so I'll most likely end up taking it a local auto electronics specialist.
Again thanks for all the replies.
    Geo.

just re-read your first line, its a powercode? so it was installed by your dealer when you purchased the vehicle? an independant shop will probably only be able to sell you and install/reprogram a new bypass for the p.a.t.s system as ford dealers have their own bypass made for them by code-alarm which are not available to the generalmarket(only ford dealers thru a ford parts depot),but a d.e.i. bypass or an idatalink, or a key in a coffin can be used, your system i believe only had a 3-36 warranty if sold by the dealer, doubtful that after all these years a loose connection would appear, it is more than likely product failure

Jim
I didn't realize that the bypass would be a a "Ford only" item. Now knowing that, I'll contact the Ford dealer that installed it. That was back in 2003 so it's way past any warranty. If I remember correctly, I believe they had an independent installer come to the dealership to do the install. I'll have to see what they think.
Thanks,
Geo.

First thing to check, remove the column shroud and look to see if the ring or pellet that is mounted next to the key switch has moved. Have you had any keys made for the truck recently? It's possible they erased the code...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Hi Mike...
No haven't had any keys made for it. Will remove the column shroud and check the ring or pellet this afternoon and report back.
Thanks,
Geo

Well...i separated the upper from lower steering column shroud to expose the ignition switch and lo and behold... the wire that goes to the loop around the ignition switch had somewhow wedged itself and kinked between the ignition switch and where the upper and lower shroud meet. I smoothed the kink out of the wire and the remote started the vehicle (key not in the ignition). I tried it several times from several angles and from about 50 feet from the vehicle and it worked everytime. Put the shroud back together and tried it several more times and so far...so good. I'm not sure why or how it wedged and kinked. No one has been in there to my knowledge...though we did notice that when we had tires changed a few weeks ago the tech had moved the seat and tilt wheel. Perhaps the tilting pulled the wire. This is the original unit installed back when the car was new back in 2003 and this is the first time we've had any problem with it. Anyone know if I have any further problems with this wire if its available separately from Ford or aftermarket sources? I should probably go back inside the shroud and figure how to secure the wire better so it doesn't ride up and wedge itself again. Will make sure it works for a week or so and ask the wife not to use the tilt function for now. Thanks again to everyone for their help.
Geo

good job vort, wire just being wedged between plastic shouldnt have caused the issue, quite possibly the copper inside is broken and your moving it is allowin it to make contact, if its justthe wire going to the ring id cut out the kinked part and make sure it has a good connection, but at leastthe good thing is if the probelm comes back you only lose remote start not key starting