Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2000 v6 mustang viper 5501 problems

I did some searching around here and have everything hooked up correctly, I believe. However, when I try to remote start, it says remote start error on the 2-way remote and doesn't engage the starter. I read in the manual that it will flash the parking lights a number of times corresponding to the error if the remote start fails and it doesn't even do that. I know the parking lights are hooked up correctly because when I lock/unlock they flash correctly. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Alright, I followed advise some guy on here received and hooked this heavy gauge inline connector up in the following manner:

Pink(Ignition 1 Input/Output) - Ignition 1 wire on car (RED / Lt Green)
RED / White(Polarity Feed for ignition 2) - Constant 12 Volts
Orange(Accessory) - Accessory wire on car (BLACK/ Lt Green)
Violet(Starter Output) - Starter wire on car (WHITE/ Pink)
Red(Polarity feed for ignition 1) - Constant 12 Volts
Pink/White(Ignition 2 Output) - Ignition 2 wire on care (Gray / YELLOW)
Pink/Black(Flex Relay Input) - Not Connected
RED / Black(Accessory/Starter polarity feed) - Constant 12 volts

As soon as I connect the battery the air bag and battery lights on the dash come on making me think the remote start has energized ignition 1. As soon as I unplug the remote starter the lights on the dash go off. What did I mix up here?

Also, with the Air bag and battery lights lit up on the dash I started it with the key...it started fine, however, once the key was turned off and pulled out the vehicle kept running. I had to pull the power to the remote start brain for the car to shut off.

Sound like an accessory or ignition is getting constant 12v...Are those all the wires in the harness you listed...Didnt leave any out...?

Battery	YELLOW	(+)	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 1	RED / LIGHT GREEN	(+)	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 2	GRAY / YELLOW	(+)	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Accessory 1	GRAY / YELLOW	(+)	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter 1	WHITE/ PINK	(+)	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Anti-Theft Type	RF ACTIVATED SYS.
Anti-Theft Descript	PATS
Key Sense	BLACK/ PINK	(-)	STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
Neutral Safety	WHITE/ PINK	(-)	IGNITION HARNESS
Tachometer	LIGHT GREEN / WHITE	(-)	POWER CONTROL MOD BEHIND RT.KICK
Speed Sense	WHITE/ ORANGE	(AC)	PIN 68 AT PCM RT. KICK PANEL
Parking Lights	BROWN	(+)	LIGHT SWITCH
Brake Lights	RED / GREEN	(+)	AT BRAKE SWITCH
Reverse Lights	BLACK/ PINK	(+)	HIGH PASS. KICK PANEL 8 PIN GRAY CONN
Horn	YELLOW /GREEN	(-)	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

yea those are all the ones listed in that harness. Each site I find seems to have conflicting information about the ignitions/accessories. I have a multimeter, is there anyway I can just test the wires out myself. Nobody seems to have done a remote start in a 2000 mustang before. I have done a lot of searching and haven't been having any luck.

If I remember right, Accessories shouldn't show voltage while cranking and ignitions should?

yep...On and cranking for ignitions...On for Acc...

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

Alright, I just metered them out. The suspected ignition 1 shows +12v when key is on "On" position, just before start. As do my other three wires that may be either ignitions or accessories.

What do they do during crank...?

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

The one suspected of being ign#1 drops to 10volts, the other "ignitions" drop to 0.3v which leads me to believe they are accessories and not ignitions. Also figured out by metering that for some reason the remote start brain is giving ignition #1 constant +12 volts even when the car is off. How do I fix this? As I mentioned above I have an ignition 1 "input/output" and an igniton 1 polarity feed. What is a polarity feed? the accessory and ignition 2 polarity feeds I gave a constant 12 volts and they don't seem to be causing me any problems. Any chance we could talk on the phone or over aim? four oh two-four three one-two six five five is my number.

Can you put the wire description for the RED / white...If you can hold off til tomorrow ...I can give you a call...Around lunch...Or evening...! When you unplug the red-white...Does it drop the constant voltage in the ignition...?

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

In my wiring info, it shows no 2nd ignition, there's 2 accessory wires, gray / YELLOW and RED / black.....starter wire is WHITE/ pink. Your pink/white wire from the remote start should be programmed as a 2nd accessory.

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Sylvain Rochon
MECP security specialist
Tech support for remote starters
26 Years of experience counts
I'm here to help.

Connect ALL your red 12GA wires together. Unplug your 4 pin green harness if you have not done either. Make sure your WHITE/ BLUE wire on the 12 pin harness is NOT connected to anything.

Your pink should be connected to RED / light green.
Pink/white to gray / YELLOW that shows 10v during crank
orange to gray / YELLOW that shows 0v during crank.
Purple wire to WHITE/ pink.

If you live in Omaha you can probably hit me up. I'm working from 3-9 tomorrow though.

Alright. I previously had a pink wire labeled as "Ignition 1 output" driving a relay to drive one of the, what I thought was second ignitions. I changed this over to the orange wire to drive my what was really second accessory wire and now the constant voltage is gone. It is still puzzling to me though why when I try to remote start the remote just says remote start error and won't engage anything. Also, in the programming menu I can't get the setting "Automatic Transmission" mode to work. It keeps reverting back to MTS or Manual Transmission mode. Any ideas?

When you go into programming mode and that you've changed the settings, do you wait til the horn chirps to tell you that the brain is out of programming mode before trying anything?

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Sylvain Rochon
MECP security specialist
Tech support for remote starters
26 Years of experience counts
I'm here to help.

I haven't tried that yet. I have just tried turning on the key which the book says should still save the programming. Is the book wrong?

yimke] wrote:

Connect ALL your red 12GA wires together. Unplug your 4 pin green harness if you have not done either. Make sure your WHITE/ BLUE wire on the 12 pin harness is NOT connected to anything.

Your pink should be connected to RED / light green.
Pink/white to gray / YELLOW that shows 10v during crank
orange to gray / YELLOW that shows 0v during crank.
Purple wire to WHITE/ pink.

If you live in Omaha you can probably hit me up. I'm working from 3-9 tomorrow though.

I tested both grey wires with yellow stripe and both drop to 0 when cranking.

PINK (R/S) To RED / green (car)

RED / WHITE (R/S) to +12V (car)

ORANGE (R/S) to Gray / YELLOW (car)

VIOLET (R/S) to WHITE/ Pink (Car)

RED (R/S) to +12V (Car)

PINK/WHITE (R/S) to RED / black (Car) (programmed in 2nd accessory)

PINK/BLACK (not used)

RED / BLACK (R/S) to +12V (Car)

Also, did you connect the BLACK/ white wire of the remote starter (neutral switch wire) to ground or on the toggle switch provided. If you used the switch, make sure its assuring a ground to the BLACK/ white wire.

WHITE (R/S) to Brown (Car) (parking lights in positive trigger.)
Smaller brown wire (R/S) to RED / green (Car) (Brake pedal wire)

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Sylvain Rochon
MECP security specialist
Tech support for remote starters
26 Years of experience counts
I'm here to help.

syl20rochon wrote:

PINK (R/S) To RED / green (car)

RED / WHITE (R/S) to +12V (car)

ORANGE (R/S) to Gray / YELLOW (car)

VIOLET (R/S) to WHITE/ Pink (Car)

RED (R/S) to +12V (Car)

PINK/WHITE (R/S) to RED / black (Car) (programmed in 2nd accessory)

PINK/BLACK (not used)

RED / BLACK (R/S) to +12V (Car)

Also, did you connect the BLACK/ white wire of the remote starter (neutral switch wire) to ground or on the toggle switch provided. If you used the switch, make sure its assuring a ground to the BLACK/ white wire.

WHITE (R/S) to Brown (Car) (parking lights in positive trigger.)
Smaller brown wire (R/S) to RED / green (Car) (Brake pedal wire)

That is how I have it hooked up with the exception of:

Orange (R/S) connected to BLACK/ Light Green (Car)
Pink/White (R/S) connected to Gray / YELLOW
----RED / Black wire connected through relay to orange (-200mA) wire

White (R/S) is connected to the WHITE/ black (-) parking light wire at the GEM...works great.

Brake wire hooked up and working fine.

I'll give your method a shot tomorrow. Running outta time tonight. Thanks!

The RED / black with the use of an external relay is fine, just use the orange wire of the R/S to the BLACK/ green wire of the car and you should be ok...don't use the pink/white (R/S) then......But you need to program the module in automatic mode for it to work.

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Sylvain Rochon
MECP security specialist
Tech support for remote starters
26 Years of experience counts
I'm here to help.

I have problems setting the automatic mode as it doesn't seem to stick. It reverts back to manual.

Alright, so I'm disconnecting the pink/white wire from the car and changing it to automatic transmission mode? And that should work? I don't need to send power to the gray / YELLOW accessory wire?

REMOTE STARTED!! The problem was...

A) I didn't have the toggle switch plugged in (DOH)
B) Had the activation pulse count set to 2...for some reason I must not have been pushing it in the correct timely fashion.

The PATS isn't hooked up correctly from the wiring guide that came with the bypass module...anybody have a wire pin out for a 2000 V6 Mustang coupe PATS system?

Mustang 1999-2002
TX= Pin 4 WHITE/ lt Green RX=Pin3 Gray/Orange

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Sylvain Rochon
MECP security specialist
Tech support for remote starters
26 Years of experience counts
I'm here to help.

TX= WHITE/ green

RX= Gray/orange

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Sylvain Rochon
MECP security specialist
Tech support for remote starters
26 Years of experience counts
I'm here to help.

Alright, everything is connected and working well. I was able to follow the guide for the PKFORD module...I wasn't looking far enough up in the dash to match the wire plug they showed in the picture. Once I found it, the problem was solved. The only odd problem is that when its remote started it seems to take the gauge cluster awhile to boot up. The car will remote start and then about 5 seconds later the gauge cluster will boot up and then the parking lights will come on. I don't know if I hooked up a wire to accessory and it should have been ignition? Ideas? Its not a real big thing as the car remote starts fine and the HVAC and heat work which is the whole point of a remote start.