remote start/keyless entry, 2007 sierra
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=117392
Printed Date: July 07, 2025 at 2:06 AM
Topic: remote start/keyless entry, 2007 sierra
Posted By: chevz7194
Subject: remote start/keyless entry, 2007 sierra
Date Posted: November 01, 2009 at 10:23 AM
I am installing a Compustar p2w900fm-s on my 2007 Sierra 2500 (New Body Style) (Gas) I have also purchased a DEI DOOR LOCK & ALARM INTERFACE XK01 - 1700G1. Is there any other bypass or hardware that i will need to get this thing installed? If there are any tips for the installation I would appreciate it. Thanks
Replies:
Posted By: metz35
Date Posted: November 01, 2009 at 11:05 AM
yes u need a bypass
Posted By: chevz7194
Date Posted: November 01, 2009 at 11:57 AM
So would either one of these work? Do I still need to use the DEI DOOR LOCK & ALARM INTERFACE XK01 - 1700G?
Combo GM Passlock (ALL) + Universal Transponder Bypasskit (PLJX-UTI) or
GM-LAN PASS-Key III Plus Override (transponder & resistor) (PKUGM2X)
Posted By: chevz7194
Date Posted: November 01, 2009 at 12:22 PM
What about using the XK06 to?
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: November 01, 2009 at 1:41 PM
XK01 does only the doorlocks.
XK06 had an issue with killing batteries, I think they took away the firmware to use the XK06 on GMs....not totally sure.
ADS (www.idatalink.com) makes some nice pieces that do locks and transponder all in one, and even give you door, hood, and tach outputs. And they even have a special cable that plugs right into the Compustar units.
But, if you already have the XK01 and want to use it, go ahead and use it for the doorlocks.
For the transponder key, probably the most cost effective way would be just to get an ordinary key-in-the-box style universal bypass (DEI 556U, Audiovox AS-TCBM, Trilogix TBKIII),
and then get a blank, uncut aftermarket transponder key and put it in the box. (I forget the part number for the key, but try www.howardkeys.com or look on eBay.) You're looking for what they call a Circle Plus key, because of the little symbol stamped onto the metal shaft of the key.
Programming the blank key to the car is simple, and doesn't require a dealer scan tool.....take a look in the truck's owner's manual.
But you basically just do this:
1. Perform your install, using one your existing factory keys in the bypass box. Verify that EVERYTHING works properly, then remove your original key from the box.
2. Put the aftermarket key in the box.
3. Using original key, turn ignition on for a few seconds, then turn off.
4. Activate remote starter. Key will program and truck will remote start.
Posted By: chevz7194
Date Posted: November 01, 2009 at 3:09 PM
Im all about simplicity. If that idatalink would be a better unit then I might get one of those. What model should I use for my application?
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: November 01, 2009 at 3:53 PM
Here are the available products for your truck from their site:
https://www.idatalink.com/search/index/model/4782
Here's a quick rundown of the differences in their modules, so you choose which you want:
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~117364~PN~1
I think you'll probably choose the first one on the list, the ADS-DLSL GM, but I figured you'd want to read that other post and decide for yourself.
Anyway, before you buy, just go to the product there and click on where it says Guides. You can download the install guide and read it for yourself.
I've actually only done two new-style Silverados, but I used the ADS module on both and it worked very well. I liked that it gives door trigger, hood trigger, and even a tach signal.
IMPORTANT NOTE: When you get to that install guide, you'll see a note on the second page, about Install Types 2 and 3.
In short, install type 2 has minimum current draw, but requires buying an additional part.
Install type 3 requires no additional parts, but puts a little bit more draw on the battery, which could become an issue if you leave your truck parked for extended periods.
Do you use your truck nearly every day, or do you sometimes park it for days or weeks at a time?
The installs I did were Type 3 and had no comebacks.
Posted By: chevz7194
Date Posted: November 01, 2009 at 4:15 PM
You are the man. Thanks for the great info. I probly will go with that ADS-DLSL GM. I usually drive it on a regular basis. May sit for a day or two at the most. If i decide to go with Install #2 I take it i will need to buy the transponder bypass ring?
Thanks Again!!
Posted By: metz35
Date Posted: November 01, 2009 at 4:15 PM
you could use a Fortin Can-SL2 also to control everything..either way will work good luck!
Posted By: beegbie
Date Posted: November 01, 2009 at 4:24 PM
Does anyone know weather or not the fortin can sl2 has the same 30 milliamp draw that the datalink module has?
Posted By: metz35
Date Posted: November 01, 2009 at 5:45 PM
there is no note to indicate so on the instructions, but there hooked up very similar not exactly the same...so i would have to say quite possibly yes..
Posted By: ziggyb222
Date Posted: November 10, 2009 at 6:24 PM
It shows on the Bypass kit website the 1701g does the transponder for the new GMC trucks.. Is that correct?????
Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: November 11, 2009 at 8:08 AM
That's correct, the 1701G will do immobilizer bypass and a bunch of other things. It doesn't handle the multiplex resistance wire at the ignition switch, so you'd possibly need to wire a relay/resistor to handle that.
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Posted By: jim hunter
Date Posted: November 12, 2009 at 4:12 PM
ive done quite a few of these trucks and unless its a fully loaded unit with factory remote start, there are neg door lock wires (pink/blk and org/blk)at the bcm or in the left side of dash panel, also dr door trigger is there, pass door trigger is behind pass side of dash side panel, neg park lites at switch, ign, acc at switch, power at back of fusebox, if your system (as the audiovox does) powers the ign acc circuits in the proper sequence,(acc,ign,acc drops) the mux circuit isnt required i do at leasst 5 chevys a week and have NEVER tied into the mux circuit,and i just program a blank key from howard keys and place it in an astcbm(coffin box)
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