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09 crv, autopage c3 rs603

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=117441
Printed Date: May 16, 2024 at 5:03 PM


Topic: 09 crv, autopage c3 rs603

Posted By: witxp
Subject: 09 crv, autopage c3 rs603
Date Posted: November 03, 2009 at 11:18 AM

Hi everyone,

I'm looking to install an AutoPage C3-RS603 in my 09 CRV EX.

I have tried searching the forums, but did not come up with the answers that I'm looking for.

The C3-RS603  is Remote Start and Keyless Entry only (currently in transit). I am using the ADS-DLSL HA for bypass.

1) Does the ignition harness provide enough amp for both RS, parking lights and etc or should I go out to the battery?

2) Will the ADS-DLSL HA work via the data link cable or do I have to connect each individually?

3) Do I have to install the factory disarm wire to the vehicle or will the ADS-DLSL HA do that for me?

Thanks




Replies:

Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: November 03, 2009 at 10:50 PM
1. The factory constant-power feed at the ignition provides plenty of power for everything.

I've always used negative trigger parking lights at the steering column because they're low-current....but I'm sure even if you use positive lights you'll still have plenty of power.

2. Haven't used Autopage but I've used plenty of ADS product. Sometimes those data cables don't seem to always work as well as advertised......but, to answer your question....

Look at the ADS install guide, and somewhere in there, it'll have a legend that says something like "not required if using D2D connection."

If using the data cable, you don't need to connect those wires to the module....such as lock, unlock, etc.

3. Yes, the module should automatically disarm the factory alarm both with unlock and during remote start.

You'll notice that there are also two wires (lock and unlock) to be connected from the module to the wires on the car.

If you don't connect those as instructed, the aftermarket remotes will not work while the remote start is running.




Posted By: witxp
Date Posted: November 04, 2009 at 7:17 AM

Chris Luongo wrote:

1. The factory constant-power feed at the ignition provides plenty of power for everything.

I've always used negative trigger parking lights at the steering column because they're low-current....but I'm sure even if you use positive lights you'll still have plenty of power.

2. Haven't used Autopage but I've used plenty of ADS product. Sometimes those data cables don't seem to always work as well as advertised......but, to answer your question....

Look at the ADS install guide, and somewhere in there, it'll have a legend that says something like "not required if using D2D connection."

If using the data cable, you don't need to connect those wires to the module....such as lock, unlock, etc.

3. Yes, the module should automatically disarm the factory alarm both with unlock and during remote start.

You'll notice that there are also two wires (lock and unlock) to be connected from the module to the wires on the car.

If you don't connect those as instructed, the aftermarket remotes will not work while the remote start is running.

This is just what I needed. Thanks

Will post back once I receive the remote start and start the install.





Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: November 04, 2009 at 8:24 AM
The constant lead covers up to 50 amps...Do you have the tech sheet for your car...?

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!




Posted By: witxp
Date Posted: November 04, 2009 at 8:44 AM

tommy... wrote:

The constant lead covers up to 50 amps...Do you have the tech sheet for your car...?

I found the tech sheet from several places including this site and bulldogsecurity. Someone stated to follow the 07 Civic as the coloring is similar.





Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 04, 2009 at 11:36 AM
Peersonally I'm not happy with using the constant on any Honda. Go to the battery, or if the internal fuse box is adjacent, use the thick (white?) lead supplying it.




Posted By: witxp
Date Posted: November 06, 2009 at 9:51 PM

Finally got my remote start today and starting prepping all the wiring to make life a little easier before getting under the dash.

I still have a couple questions that I'm not quite sure of.

1) With the iDataLink, do I need to hook up the Keysense wire?

2) I have to hook up the 2nd accessory wire, but the remote start 2nd Starter output cannot be programmed as a 2nd accessory. Where should I tap power from? The remote start's ignition harness has two 20Amp fused wires going in. I was thinking about tapping in one of the two wires after the fuse, but I dont, know which one I should go for.





Posted By: witxp
Date Posted: November 07, 2009 at 11:11 AM
witxp] wrote:

p>Finally got my remote start today and starting prepping all the wiring to make life a little easier before getting under the dash.

I still have a couple questions that I'm not quite sure of.

1) With the iDataLink, do I need to hook up the Keysense wire?

2) I have to hook up the 2nd accessory wire, but the remote start 2nd Starter output cannot be programmed as a 2nd accessory. Where should I tap power from? The remote start's ignition harness has two 20Amp fused wires going in. I was thinking about tapping in one of the two wires after the fuse, but I dont, know which one I should go for.


Bump..anyone?

1) For the Keysense wire, I will leave it alone for now and if it remote starts with Key inserted and doesn't without then I will know to hook it up???

2) I think I will just run another power wire to power up the second accessory wire with relay, but I dont know what fuse size I should use. Can anyone comment? Maybe there is a better way instead?

Thanks





Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: November 07, 2009 at 11:16 AM
1. Keysense wire generally isn't necessary on any Honda, not either from the remote starter, or from the ADS module.

(Unless for some reason ADS has changed the install guide and wants you to hook it up?)

2. Again, not familiar with Autopage, but you have a few options:

A. You don't even need to hook up the second accessory wire anyway. It powers up the radio and some other non-essential items. I prefer to have the radio off during remote start, and I never hook up second accesory on Hondas.

B. Hondas only have one ignition wire. Does this Autopage have an Ignition 2 output? If so, look in your programming menu.......see if you can set Ignition 2 to "off during crank" or "as accessory" or some other similar setting.

C. Yes, if you do decide to configure an external relay to power up the second accessory wire, I would do what you said....grab your constant power on the "downstream" side of the exisitng fuse on the remote start.




Posted By: witxp
Date Posted: November 07, 2009 at 11:32 AM

Chris Luongo wrote:

1. Keysense wire generally isn't necessary on any Honda, not either from the remote starter, or from the ADS module.

(Unless for some reason ADS has changed the install guide and wants you to hook it up?)

2. Again, not familiar with Autopage, but you have a few options:

A. You don't even need to hook up the second accessory wire anyway. It powers up the radio and some other non-essential items. I prefer to have the radio off during remote start, and I never hook up second accesory on Hondas.

B. Hondas only have one ignition wire. Does this Autopage have an Ignition 2 output? If so, look in your programming menu.......see if you can set Ignition 2 to "off during crank" or "as accessory" or some other similar setting.

C. Yes, if you do decide to configure an external relay to power up the second accessory wire, I would do what you said....grab your constant power on the "downstream" side of the exisitng fuse on the remote start.

Thanks Chris

I will leave both disconnected and hook up the 2nd acessory if I choose to later.





Posted By: witxp
Date Posted: November 21, 2009 at 2:07 PM

Hi,

I have most of the wires connected, but when I got to the tach, I couldn't figure out how to get it out to the engine bay. Does anyone know if there is a grommet somewhere near the driver side?

Do I have to drill a hole through?

Thanks





Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: November 21, 2009 at 2:17 PM

On the 2007 CRV there is a nice, unused hole with gromet high above the gas pedal.  It is small, 1/2 inch, but big enough for the tach and hood pin wires.  For the tach, I go to a fuel injector, any wire not Black, BLACK/ white or Yellow/black.



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: witxp
Date Posted: November 27, 2009 at 10:41 PM

Hi everyone,

My remote start is working great thanks everyone.

The only question I have left is does anyone know which is the factory rearm wire?

Do I really need it? When I hit the lock button the factory alarm rearms. I guess it is only when the remote start times out is when I would need it to rearm the system.

Thanks





Posted By: witxp
Date Posted: December 01, 2009 at 7:43 AM
bump...anyone?




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 01, 2009 at 4:02 PM
I believe you are correct about the alarm re-arm after a R/S time out.  The ADS DLSL HA won't do it but the C3-RS603 should.  We use Ultra Start & Compustar so I am not familiar with the Autopage unit but on their web site it says it has a "200ma ground programmable output for horn or factory alarm re-arm".   Program that output for "pulse after shutdown"  and attach to the cars Alarm arm wire.  It's the pink wire in the driver kick or at MICU, green 34 pin plug, at the back of the fuse box, pin 32.  

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Soldering is fun!





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