keyless entry smoke

So I have run into a problem installing a keyless entry/alarm on an '05 Ford Ranger.

Truck didn't have power locks, so actuators were put in. They are reverse polarity actuators.

First problem: The driver's side switch will control both actuators, but only if the pass. side is disconnected (or vise versa). This doesn't make sense because that sounds like positive trigger to me, and the actuators are reverse polarity.

Second problem: The keyless entry outputs a - pulse for lock or unlock. I therefore wired in the typical two relay setup for reverse polarity locks. The truck was fine when everything got hooked up, except the entire keyless entry unit would not work. About 5 minutes later, the whole setup starts smoking from the ground wires of the relays.

Thoughts? Thanks in advance.

Use a lock specific relay not normal relays, disconect the passenger side until you have only the motor wires. The trigger wires are sending a constant to the relays and burning them out. Door lock specific relays which would have been in the kit if you'd bought a proper kit, with wiring etc., time out after 3 secs. and FUSE it 15amps.

Thanks for the speedy responses. I wasn't using additional fuses, as I had the relays tapped into the keyless entry unit's 15A fused constant source.  I didn't realize there were special lock relays - I'll have to look into that.  By "disconnect the pass. side until you have only motor wires", what are you getting at? As of right now, the pass. side switch is not wired at all, and just the actuator is connected to the driver's side actuator.  I'd like to get the pass. side switch working as well, and I was figuring that once I got the relay situation squared away, I would run the ground signals from the pass. switch into them with the keyless entry outputs.

Question on the relays though - if wired like in the attached pic, how can they be grounding out if the coil isn't energized to switch from ground to positive except when the signal is sent from the keyless entry? And how did this thing totally kill the keyless entry, but things went back to normal once it was removed? 

Are the switches driving the relays or the actuators directly?

You should be using the relays to trigger the actuators, and then use a (-) output from each switch (including the keyless) to fire the relays.

The driver's side switch is currently driving the actuators. I added the relay setup to utilize the keyless entry.  Would rewiring the switches to drive the relays and not drive the actuators directly solve the issues I'm having?

My main concern is with how the relays were somehow passing 12V to the ground wires without being energized. Also, I should add, that I bench tested the relay setup with a spare actuator and a 12V power source prior to vehicle installation, and everything ran smoothly - that's why I was surprised at the fire that started 5 minutes after install.

Thanks again for all of the help.

never skip on the fuses, be carefull when runnign the wires into the door, on some cars the frame is very sharp, go around the mechanical components, what i do is to follow the original magnufacturer wires.

Problem solved:

I only used the switch's ground input and lock/unlock outputs to send a - pulse to the relays, attached at the keyless entry pulse outputs, and everything works great.  Must have been the 12V from the switch that was running into the actuators that was burning through my ground wire.  Should have gone the 'trigger the relay route' the first time, but was too lazy to rewire the truck for that. Did it and it works great now.

Thanks for the help.