Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2009 Hummer H3 Remote Start Review

I have a customer wanting a remote start in a 2009 Hummer H3.. I always research before I accept a customer to be sure I'm confident in doing one.. How hard are these? Should I go the route of using relays to bypass the passlock or spend the $60 for a ADS-DLSL GM?

Here's what I have for wiring..

12V - Red or Orange
Ignition - WHITE/ Green @ Ignition Harness
Accessory - WHITE/ Red @ Ignition Harness
Starter - N/A

Tach - Opposite of Pink @ Injector
Lock - (-) Light Blue @ Driver's Kick Panel
Unlock - (-) Dark Blue @ Driver's Kick Panel
Brake - Light Blue Above Brake Pedal
Parking Lights - (+) Brown in Driver's Kick, (-) BROWN / White at Switch
Horn - Green @ Steering Column

Is that it for the common wiring? No Arm/Disarm wires to hook up? I seen a note on a site that said "MUST HOOK UP FACTORY DISARM FROM REMOTE START TO ALLOW VEHICLE TO REMOTE START WHILE LOCKED".. ??

As far as wiring the relays for the passlock bypass.. I found this diagram but it doesn't give the wire colors for the H3. Anyone know what they are?

Any other tips would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!!

posted_image

when i did a 2008 hummer i used the directed 556uw for the immobilizer bypass and the directed xk01 for the door locks and if i am not mistakened i had to update the firmware for the xk01 using the xk loader from directed.

Aren't the door locks negative pulse? If so, why the need for a XK01?

tbird2340,

Apparently, and this is really surprising to me, the 2009 H3 is still only equipped with the late-model variant Passlock immobilizer. (I've never done one personally and I was thinking that it, along with Colorado/Canyon, had switched to the hybrid PassKey3+ transponder-based system.)

Since all my resources are saying this, I'd recommend using a cheaper Passlock bypass (not a fan of the relay and resistor method, takes too long and too many components to break). The wiring info on this site for the '06 H3 should be valid if you wanted to check that out as well.

If you're doing an RS/keyless combo unit, the ADS-DLSL-GM may be a better choice because it integrates the factory alarm control. For a standalone remote start-only unit, the alarm should disarm with the Passlock, so you can save a few $$ and use a cheaper bypass.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

I just did one a couple of weeks ago, using the relays. It wasn't bad at all. No need to pull the column cover. All the wires you need run to a plug to the left of the steering column.

I've never done an H3, but I've done a handful of Colorado/Canyon....should be the same thing.

There are various ways to use various modules to interface with the unique Passlock system on that car, and if you look around online, pretty much EVERY one of those modules has some sort of complaint from someone.

It seems pretty much universally agreed that if you do it with the two relays, it always works and never comes back. The (very few) that I've done were all with relays and resistors, and had no problems.

Audiovox has the best diagram to configure the relays, in my opinion. Go to techservices.audiovox.com and sign up for an account. But I just realized someone already posted the diagram anyway.

Agreed with the others about the doorlocks---the module allows you to arm and disarm the factory alarm, and direct wiring doesn't. But all the installs I did were for dealers, and they didn't want to pay for a module, so I have no experience with those.

mikvot wrote:

I just did one a couple of weeks ago, using the relays. It wasn't bad at all. No need to pull the column cover. All the wires you need run to a plug to the left of the steering column.

Was yours a 2009?

Looking at the diagram from Installogy it says the arm/disarm is "OEM Remote Only"..

What does that mean?

factory alarm only arms/disarms with factory remote so if your using a keyless entry remote starter and the customer never uses the factory remote the factory alarm never arms. if you want the factory alarm to work via your remote you will have to use a data module, but if thats not an issue i just always use the neg lock wires in the left kick area(above kick panel access so you dont have to remove kick panel.
an h3 is just a colorado/canyon so the passlock wires are the same as trhat vehicl, WHITE/ blue and WHITE/ yellow, i always have just wired the 2 relays and have never had a comenback, yet everyone ive seen done with a 556l or asgm4 type module has returned for start issues.
i just did an 09 canyon the other day and no chris they still are just using this hybrid passlock no pk3 circle plus( i think they are rerady to change or phase out this line so there not putting any money into new technology for it)and you can go tachless as it has the new gm smart start technology, your wire diagram is correct except i have always used one with a diode on the ign feed to the relay on pin 85 of that 2nd relay

1. So I don't have to worry about the arm/disarm wires if the customer doesn't use the oem remote?

2. If the customer would happen to lock with the oem remote and then try a remote start the alarm would go off, right?

3. Is it worth the trouble to even bother keeping the oem alarm intact with the aftermarket remote start?

YES definately. If you control everything with the ADS module the customers brand new hummer will still behave like it did from the factory.

Not controlling the alarm leaves dome lights on and other random things that the customer will not be pleased about.

The module will do alot for you and make a much better install, which makes you look awesome and their system more reliable. People dont like losing features if they dont have to.

mobiletint wrote:

YES definately. If you control everything with the ADS module the customers brand new hummer will still behave like it did from the factory.

Not controlling the alarm leaves dome lights on and other random things that the customer will not be pleased about.

The module will do alot for you and make a much better install, which makes you look awesome and their system more reliable. People dont like losing features if they dont have to.

So you're saying to get the ADS-DLSL-GM and not go the bypass route?

I actually have an INT-SL in stock.. It looks like it works with the Hummer.. Should I just use it? Is there a way to know if I would have issues not going the relay route?

Never mind.. The INT-SL doesn't work standalone it needs to be coupled with the PASSLOCK-SL2..

tbird2340 wrote:

I actually have an INT-SL in stock.. It looks like it works with the Hummer.. Should I just use it? Is there a way to know if I would have issues not going the relay route?

It would be alot easier and more reliable to use the ADS with GM4. If something happened with your relay home made style bypass, you could leave the customer stranded somewhere if the passlock locks out.

mobiletint wrote:

tbird2340 wrote:

I actually have an INT-SL in stock.. It looks like it works with the Hummer.. Should I just use it? Is there a way to know if I would have issues not going the relay route?

It would be alot easier and more reliable to use the ADS with GM4. If something happened with your relay home made style bypass, you could leave the customer stranded somewhere if the passlock locks out.

Well if the ADS is 100% reliable then yea, that's the way I'll go.. Reading the posts in my thread and another Hummer thread on here seems to be the opposite though.. A lot of installers had problems with all kinds of bypasses and the people who did the two relay bypass never had a comeback..

ive personally never had a comeback using the 2 relay method, i also have never tried any module as i too have read all the horror stories here and from talking to other installers that used modules, but as stated before the problem with not using a module like idatalink is you cannot control arming or disarming the factory alarm ,and yes if by some strange reason the customer locked doors with the factory fob and tried to unlock with your aftermarket fob the factory alarm would sound and only disarm when they turned ignition on with their key, also if they locked via factory fob and used our remote start, horn would issue a few honks before disarming and starting(this is casued b alarm seeing ign a second or 2 before seeing resistor code on hybrid passlock wires

tbird2340 wrote:

1. So I don't have to worry about the arm/disarm wires if the customer doesn't use the oem remote?

2. If the customer would happen to lock with the oem remote and then try a remote start the alarm would go off, right?

3. Is it worth the trouble to even bother keeping the oem alarm intact with the aftermarket remote start?

1. Right.

2. The factory alarm almost certainly won't go off during remote start, even if it is armed.

The issue would be if the customer sets the factory alarm, and then unlocks with your new aftermarket remote...the alarm would trigger. And then starting the engine with the key would disarm the alarm again.

3. That's up to you, your customer, and your level of honesty.

Some installers just hook up aftermarket keyless and hope the customer never notices.

You could talk him into an alarm/starter combo, which would make up for the lack of factory alarm........I'll bet the difference in your cost for a combo versus an RS/keyless unit, is probably less than the cost of a data module.

Another option, although less money/profit for you, would be to sell him a one-button remote starter, and have him keep his factory remotes for locks, and he'll keep his factory alarm too.

Chris Luongo wrote:

tbird2340 wrote:

1. So I don't have to worry about the arm/disarm wires if the customer doesn't use the oem remote?

2. If the customer would happen to lock with the oem remote and then try a remote start the alarm would go off, right?

3. Is it worth the trouble to even bother keeping the oem alarm intact with the aftermarket remote start?

1. Right.

2. The factory alarm almost certainly won't go off during remote start, even if it is armed.

The issue would be if the customer sets the factory alarm, and then unlocks with your new aftermarket remote...the alarm would trigger. And then starting the engine with the key would disarm the alarm again.

3. That's up to you, your customer, and your level of honesty.

Some installers just hook up aftermarket keyless and hope the customer never notices.

You could talk him into an alarm/starter combo, which would make up for the lack of factory alarm........I'll bet the difference in your cost for a combo versus an RS/keyless unit, is probably less than the cost of a data module.

Another option, although less money/profit for you, would be to sell him a one-button remote starter, and have him keep his factory remotes for locks, and he'll keep his factory alarm too.

I'm doing a two way starter so the one button is out.. What exactly would the customer lose if the factory alarm never gets armed? Thanks!

Ok. So I'm doing the Hummer tomorrow night and I'm leaning towards the relay solution as it sounds more reliable..

Question though.. If one of the relays would happen to go bad then the customer would be SOL and totally unable to start the vehicle, right? That is SCARY! Is there any way around this doing it the relay way?

not true tbird as a relays failsafe is to remain closed(pin 87a and pin 30 connected)which would therefore leave the factory wiring intact so to speak if ailed, also in 20 yrs i have seen almost no relays fail when wired proerly and in a weathersafe environment, youd have to have a remote start and relay failure at the same time to be an issue, unless your connections were not solid and came apart

Thanks Jim... You made me feel MUCH more confident about this now..

These two diagrams are slightly different.. The audiovox has pin 86 of relay A connected to pin 85 of Relay B and those connected to IGN 3 from remote start?

The other one has the same thing but connected to Ground out when running.. I think everything else looks the same..

posted_image

audiovox ign 3 is a ground when running output(neg ign3 relay needed if used as a 3rd ignition)

So I like to try and figure out what the relays are doing because I like to try to understand things better to get more experienced with relays..

So at rest.. Pins 30 and 87A are connected, right? So that means that if you look at the relay on the right, pins 30 and 87A actually connect the wire that you have to cut?

Then, when energized the white wire gets connected to the WHITE/ black wire through the resistor?

If anyone could explain what really is going on I would greatly appreciate it..

Thanks!

no if you look when at rest relay 1 is sending its signal to the at rest(idle) pin 87 on relay 2n when you activate remote start relays are sending the resistor signal to the ecm( relay 2 has isolated it away from ign switch), it sends the signal during start cycle then relay 2 is keeping it seeing resistor during remote start run cycle

So the relay on the right sends connects the cut wire when that relay isn't charged enabling the vehicle to start with the key, right?

So at rest, relay on the left is sending his signal to pin 87 of the right relay which really doesn't do anything when the relays are at rest..

Then, when remote started both coils get energized and the resistor gets sent to the ECM?

Last question, promise.. When I put my meter to Ohms will it give a value like "100" or something and then I just get a 100 ohm resistor?

What's happening is this - at rest, the white and the WHITE/ black are not connected.

When the remote starter powers up the ignition, the white and WHITE/ black are shorted together and the white is isolated from the switch, since only the relay on the right has its coil energized at this time.

When the remote starter attempts to crank, the coil on the left relay activates and connects the white and WHITE/ black through the resistor. The relay on the right is also still activated at this time.

Once the remote start stops attempting to crank after a programmed time has passed(voltage sense mode) or a valid tach signal is being received(tach sense mode), the left relay returns to rest and the white and WHITE/ black are shorted together for the duration of the run cycle.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

i stand corrected chris. thanks for setting us straight LOL,

Thanks Chris.. So is that the same thing that will happen when they insert the key? If a relay died, would they still be able to start the car?

Yes. The factory circuit is intact in the rest position.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Doing this right now.. Locks.. Light Blue and Dark Blue in Driver's kick.. There are about 5 of each color.. I tested all of them.. One set tests around 6V at rest but does not change when I hit the lock / unlock buttons..

All the others don't test any V at rest.. WTH?!

Also, do these require a tach hookup? I can't seem to find the injectors.. It looks like the Intake is covering them..

Just tested the resistor value.. If it had 1761 that means 1761 ohms, right? What commonly sold resistor value would work for that?

I just found that I had a 1870 one but is that close enough? If I try it and it's not will it jack stuff up or just not start?

you can combine resistors to obtain that number, if you put the resistors inline (end to end) you add the numbers to reach the value, if you put them together side by side the number is cut in half( i.e. if you took 2 of your 1870's and put them end to end youd have 3740 give or take a point if you twisted them together side by side youd have 935 ohms) try to get as close as physically possible to your number needed, also the door locks are in the harness somewhat inside the kick panels metal wall going into the door boot

jim hunter wrote:

you can combine resistors to obtain that number, if you put the resistors inline (end to end) you add the numbers to reach the value, if you put them together side by side the number is cut in half( i.e. if you took 2 of your 1870's and put them end to end youd have 3740 give or take a point if you twisted them together side by side youd have 935 ohms) try to get as close as physically possible to your number needed, also the door locks are in the harness somewhat inside the kick panels metal wall going into the door boot

Thanks for the reply.. I can't find the locks anywhere.. I'm in that boot boot in the kick panel but like I said there are like 5 blue and 5 light blue.. I tested ALL of them and only two test with voltage at rest but they don't move (stay at 6.3V) when I hit the lock / unlock..

Thanks for the tip on the relays.. So if I would get the value wrong somehow would that jack anything up?

if your too far off( they say you have 10% but i never want to push it that close) then when you tried to remote start it you would send a wrong code thereby not enabling it to start, and after a couple attempts would lock the vehicle out of even starting with the key till you reset the system(long key on process)but less than 10 % difference would be ok but i wouldnt trust 10% for too long(therfore your 1761 could range fromjust under 1600 to1930, but again get as close to 1761 as possible and i prefer to use only 2 resistors at most to achieve this )and door locks are there harness is inside metal of kick panel wall and rest at ground and show 12 volts when switch is used

Ok. I got a 1500 and a 249 so that should be close enough..

I thought (-) locks rested at 12V and then went to ground when pressed?

And does this vehicle need a tach hooked up? If so, where do I find it? I can't see the injectors!

yea 1749 is close enough, just wire them end to end and make sure they are secured with somehting taped to them(i use a pice of heavy zip tie) to strengthen them so as not easy to break ( as they are fragile) and sorry i was dislexic yes locks show 12 volts at rest and go to ground when switch used,(if i remember correctly reach hand inside hole in metal wall of kick panel to reach door boot harness) and no tach is needed as this truck has gm smart stART circuit( you could remove cover to get at injectors but ive never done this on colorado/canyon or h3, same vehicle) and you can set crank time to longest setting with no worries as vehicle will only crank as long as it wants no matter how long your starter does

This is where I'm looking..

posted_image

no your down low behind kick panel trim, you need to reach up higher above the kick panel trim as if trying to reach thru the door boot(rubber boot connectng body to door), i think either the lock or unlock can be got down here but its easier to get them boith up high

I'm going to go effing nuts.. I've been looking for these freaking lock wires for like TWO hours.. I'm totally done besides this SOB's.. That harness your talking about looks like it goes down to where I'm 'at?

I don't see how I could access by where you are talking about unless I took that metal plate off?

posted_image

I set to no tach and tried ONE remote start attempt.. The dash lights lit up but it didn't even try to crank.. I'm double checking all the wiring now but wanted to know that if it doesn't even attempt to crank if that is because of the resistor values..

** Still can't find the locks..

Ignition wire from bypass didn't have a good connection..

This time it DID remote start and stay running for about 3 seconds and then shut off.. WTH!!!

My resistor values are like dead on.. It has to be those, right?

Well.. I gave up for the night.. I'm very dissapointed to have to give a customer back a non complete vehicle..

Here is the shot of me testing the resistance:

posted_image

Here are the resistors I used:

1500 = brown, green, red, gold
249 = red, yellow, white, black, brown

posted_image

Here are all the wires I'm testing for the freaking locks..

posted_image

What the heck am I doing wrong!?

I reposted your picture where I believe you should look. You should be able to put your hand in where the arrow is and pull out some slack on the harness coming from the door. Which I believe is the same harness I circled. Either way, the wires you are looking for go into that hole in the sheet metal. I'm also posting a picture of the Canyon's door lock wires(same car). They already pulled the slack in the wiring harness out of the hole to show you the wires.

Your Picture
posted_image

Canyon

Thanks.. I seen that harness but it was so freaking tight I figured that wasn't it..

Now if someone can just explain to me why it's shutting down after a remote start..

I'm using a Compustar CM5200. I changed option 2-10 "Engine Sensing" from the default of Tach to "No Connection".. The options are tach, alternator, no connection, and no connection - 1.5 second crank"

I'm 95% sure that the relays are wired correctly.

I'm just afraid to keep trying to remote start it as I'm afraid to lock out the passlock..

Please, if anyone has any ideas..

Thanks

did not read the whole topic but the directed xk01 will do your door locks as long as you have an xkloader to update the firmware

dvaldez0989 wrote:

did not read the whole topic but the directed xk01 will do your door locks as long as you have an xkloader to update the firmware

Locks aren't what I'm worried about.. I will eventually find the wires.. I'm wondering why it's starting then stopping.

Thanks for the reply.

Most GM Passlock systems go into long-tamper (10 minute lockout) mode with three incorrect start attempts.

You should be able to make all the attempts you want, IF, you start the car by key in between.

My personal rule is I don't allow any more that two bad start attempts. On the second attempt, hit the brake, kill the unit, start it up with the key and let it run for a few seconds.

That's good to know.. Thanks..

Any idea why it's staying running for about 3 seconds and then shutting off? Would it act that way if the relays were wired incorrectly?

Try changing the settings to alternator. I just got a cliffor 50.7 to remote start and it was set for virtual tech and it would start and shut back down after about 5 seconds. I changed it to voltage (I suppose it the same as alternator on yours) and it's been starting fine. Btw, since the passkey lockout only locks it out for about 10 minutes, you could try remote starting few time and see if it locks the passkey. If it doesn't, at least you would know it's probably not you bypass. Just a though.

Thanks for that vettn! I'll try changing it to alternator.. Are you 100% that it only locks it out for 10 minutes? How will I know if it's locked out?

Thanks again!

You'll know you are locked out when the truck won't start with the key. You can also tell by looking at the security light in the dash cluster. If it flashing when you turn the key or when you remote start, you will know it is the passlock system. I always do what Luongo said. 2 attempts, and then start with the key. If you get locked out, just turn the key to the on position, and let it sit for 15. The security light will stop flashing. You can start the truck again.

Ok thanks.. So if I set it to alternator sensing and it still shuts down after about 3 seconds then what can it be?

Would it act like this if the relay bypass was incorrect or would it just not start at all if that was the case?

It shouldn't start at all if it was the bypass. Watch the security light when you try to remote start. If it flashing when the car is cranking, and during the three seconds it it running, then it is the bypass.

when you rs and it fails how many times do lights flash

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good luck
kirk

ck auto wrote:

when you rs and it fails how many times do lights flash

What lights? The parking lights? If that's what you mean it doesn't give a code.. It actually DOES remote start it just shuts down after 2-3 seconds..

And I was just looking at the Compustar manual.. About changing it to alternator sensing.. It says when you set it to this that it requires a connection.. I don't think that's going to fix my issue. :(

how are you programed and conectted know for tach

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good luck
kirk

I didn't connect any tach as I was told the Hummer doesn't need a tach wire..

So I setup the Compustar as tachless.

I have always found tachless works best.

Exspecially if you want it not to work.

robertsc wrote:

I have always found tachless works best.

Exspecially if you want it not to work.

Huh? The Hummer doesn't need the tach.. "no tach is needed as this truck has gm smart stART circuit( you could remove cover to get at injectors but ive never done this on colorado/canyon or h3, same vehicle) and you can set crank time to longest setting with no worries as vehicle will only crank as long as it wants no matter how long your starter does"

You can do it your way then.

I always run a tach wire not running a tach wire is just lazy.

p.s. how long have you been installing starters?

In most cases running a tach is the only way to properly install a remote start. But not in this case. It seems unfair to call someone lazy for not doing something that absolutely doesn't need to be done. I have done hundreds of these trucks in tachless without ever having any issues. I should also mention that I will only install remote starts that have a true tachless option (no voltage sense)in these trucks because I don't think voltage sense is reliable.

Robertsc,

IMHO the main advantage of running a tach wire is the anti-grind protection inherent in tach mode - cranking stops when the engine starts turning, rather than when a preset crank time elapses.

As tbird2340 has correctly pointed out, the H3 has that protection built into it from the factory. The only ways for the starter to grind would be a component failure, or an aftermarket device connected directly to the starter solenoid wire or the crank relay control wire. Obviously no installer with half a brain is going to attempt that because it's stupid and unnecessary.

Having said all that, tbird2340, you may want to run a tach wire in anyway, since sometimes it will sense that the car's running in a way that voltage sensing will not. I've had a Scytek piece installed on a Cobalt, which has the same factory anti-grind, and it wouldn't work properly in voltage sensing - would run for 45 seconds and then shut down. I can't speak for that problem's existence on a Compustar or Directed unit, but it's something to be aware of.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

i would run a tach just to double check, i use audiovox sstems and have never ran a tach on h3/colorado/canyon and never had a problem,however on silverados and equinox's ive had to run a tch as it would start and run for a couple minutes, stop AND restart when i ran tachless, your problem doesnt sound tach related but as im unfamiliar with compustar i cant say for certain, i would just run the tach wire(to an uncommon injector wire color) and program for tach and program the tach and see what happens, can you see the injectors without taking off the cover? if not remove cover and connect to an injector wire(uncommon color)

I personally have never had any luck running tachless.

Alot of times the starter stays engaged to long.

I have seen many people run into early shutdown and its usually caused by this.

I personally fail to see how voltage sense can properly operate, I see it as a way to allow an installer to do slap in install.

on new gms the way the starter system works it wont let the starter stat engaged too long as the bcm controls starting, you could actually hold the key in the crank position endlessly and once the vehicle starts the bcm ignores the key, you just wouldnt have any accessory circuits on until the key was released and went back to the run position.new fords are the same way and actually on fords, the ford/code system engineers that worked together on the ford remote starts recommend NOT hooking up tach on most of their in house installs, tach might be his problem as i have had certain gms give a start stop restart during remote start in some instances, but doesnt sound like his is trying to restart but again im not familiar with compustars circuitry if it would try to restart as audiovox does

I generally always do run a tach robertsc but when someone with a vast amount of experience tells me it doesn't need one, I tend to trust their opinion.. Especially when I can reproduce what they say (continue cranking after it's running and it doesn't do a dang thing)..

That being said.. I will try running a tach but the injectors aren't accessible.. I don't see how I to remove the cover either..

If that doesn't work.. Anyone have any other ideas?

Thanks

Jim you left out the new chryslers and actually some fords have been like that for probably since the late 90's.

Winstars were the first ones i do believe.

I know how it works I just don't agree on using voltage check to monitor weither the engine had started or running.

Very flawed approach.

When I put in a starter I want to do it once and won't take the chance of a come back .

Saving 5 minutes work seldom works.

Have you tried unhooking your brake shutdown wire to see if possibly the brake wire is getting 12 volts for some reason? I had this on a hhr a while back where it would start then a few seconds after starting for whatever reason it was getting 12v to the brake wire and i had to run my brake wire somewhere else. Just another idea. Besides the obvious running tach. What kind of voltage are you seeing when the hummer is running? Could have something to do with it as well.

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A DMM is a beautiful thing.

MECP Advanced Installer Certified.

tach signal also shuts down in the event of overrev. Not just used for over crank fyi.

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MECP Master Certified Technician
ASE A6 Certified Technician

I'm getting the Hummer back tonight.. Let's hope I can figure it out!!

I got a ADS-ALDL-GM just in case I can't get the relay bypass to work..

relay bypass is THE most effective bypass in these. Just be sure to solder everything, and get the resistance as close as possible without going over.

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MECP Master Certified Technician
ASE A6 Certified Technician

After all the discussion about relays vs module on this truck, I had an 06 h3 come in the other day, and decided I would try a module and see what happens. Use a ads al ca(dl) gm-4. Worked like a champ, we also did a Colorado (same setup) today with the same module. I'm not sure how the module will work longterm, but just thought I would throw this in. I've always done the relay setup, but so far, so good with the module.

It was the freaking tach!!! I hooked it up and programmed it and it started and stayed running!

Now all I have to do is get the freaking locks.. It is SOOOO damn tight where they are.. I can barely get any slack to test them let along T-Tap or solder!!

Any tips?

Do you have the dash dropped. It easier with the dash down. You can reach your left hand in between the metal bracing and you should be able to pull the harness out a little bit to make your connection.

Yea, I have the dash dropped.. It's just so freaking tight I can't get it any looser..

posted_image

ive never had much trouble getting enough slack to get the lock wires, and i military splice them, if its that tight go inside the boot,

What is military splice and where is the boot? I've already looked down low by the kick and didn't find them there.

Thanks

A military splice is when you strip back the insulation expose about 1 inch of bare wire and poke a hole through it (more like creating a gap in the strands). Then you strip back about 2 inches off of the end of the wire you're splicing into the circuit, stick the bare wire in through the loop, and twist the excess wire around and around alternating from left to right sides of the wire you're splicing into the circuit. Tape it up with some super 33, and bam.

A military splice is damn difficult to undo or fail if you do it right. now imagine a soldered military splice! ;)

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MECP Master Certified Technician
ASE A6 Certified Technician

the boot is the ruber between the door and the body, pop it off of the body side, and slide it back a bit(wont go far)towards the door, if its still too tight, pushe the door side of boot slightly inside the door giving you more room to work and feed your wires thru the body hole and connect inside the boot, DO NOT use t-taps , splice them

The boot on that car is a molex plug if my recollection serves me right.. if you plan on running wires in, be prepared to do some drilling.

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MECP Master Certified Technician
ASE A6 Certified Technician

I have some questions, I am getting ready to put in a Viper 5701 in for a customer tomorrow morning using the new Passlock module for the H3. What I am having a hard time figuring out is where do I go for the starter wire? Is it the one in the notes that is the purple wire in a two wire plug in the engine compartment? Does the blue and white wire that is on the H1 harness need to be hooked up or can I leave it? Any help would be great. I have this thing pre-wired and ready to install in the morning and want to get it done as quickly as possible.

Regards,

Charles Bettis

nitrob,

1. What is the "new Passlock module"? Brand name and specific bypass part number would be helpful.

2. I don't know if by "blue and white wire on the H1 harness" you mean the white with blue stripe (-) remote start activation input, or the blue with white stripe (-) 2nd status/defroster output. Neither one is necessary to connect. The remote start activation input allows for activation by, e.g., a factory keyless entry remote or a momentary switch. The 2nd status/defroster output is pretty self-explanatory.

3. The starter wire on this truck is not a conventional wire from the ignition switch and needs to be approached differently.

First, it's not necessary to connect it anywhere for remote start.

Second, if you want to do starter kill with the alarm, what supposedly works (I say that with caution, since I haven't tried this myself) is using a relay, controlled by the orange ground-when-armed output, to connect the WHITE/ green Ignition and WHITE/ red Accessory wires at the ignition switch. What this will do is keep the truck from cranking - since the truck cranks when it sees Ignition stay at 12v and Accessory drop out, this prevents that.

The relay would be wired like this:
85 - orange (-) ground-when-armed from 5701
86, 87 - WHITE/ green Ignition wire at ignition switch.
30 - WHITE/ red Accessory wire at ignition switch.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

The module is a passlock-sl2-H3 by crimestopper.

I was talking about the white with blue, sorry.

So how will this thing remote start, I am confused. I will not put the starter kill on this, he does not care about that. In Germany, autotheft is not so common. Is the instructions you gave me for autostart? Thanks for the input. I still do not understand how it will remote start though if I do not use the violet and green wires on the H3 harness on the 5701. Confused on that.

nitrob,

The H3 (along with most other late model GM vehicles) has its starter controlled by the Body Control Module and Powertrain Control Module, not directly by the ignition switch.

The ignition switch has 4 positions - 1. Off 2. Accessory 3. Run 4. Crank.

The WHITE/ red Accessory wire shows 12 volts in positions 2 and 3. The WHITE/ green Ignition wire shows 12 volts in positions 3 and 4.

Also, the WHITE/ yellow and WHITE/ blue Passlock wires are normally not connected. With a key inserted, they are shorted together directly in positions 1, 2, and 3. In position 4 they are shorted through a resistor(the resistor value varies).

When the BCM sees 2 things happen, it initiates engine cranking. One - ignition is at 12 volts and accessory is not. Two - the appropriate resistance value on the WHITE/ blue wire.

How does this work with remote start? The bypass module you've used supplies that appropriate resistance value, and the remote starter when it attempts to crank will cut power to the orange heavy gauge accessory output.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Well, the passlock module works ok but at first, vehicle would not start and you would have to wait a few mins then it would start. After I did the install, a few days later the customer called me and said the heater will not work until the key is in the run or start position. I took the center panel out and as the Instructions say by Viper, take the orange wire on the heave 10 pin harness and hook it to the heater accessory wire. Well, I found that 4 out of five wires on the fan switch are have 12 volts when the key is on so I hooked the orange wire up to the yellow on this harness which should be blower setting 4 on the fan switch. Now, the vehicle security light shows a locked sign, the vehicle locked in park when I put it back in park and the vehicle will not start. I am baffled and worried I may have fried something. Also, the alarm will not work, wont lock or unlock the doors, LED not flashing and the bypass module is not lighting up. All fuses to the alarm are good. What could cause this, and how can I fix it. Looks like I may end up paying for an expensive repair and I am trying to avoid that.

Regards,

Charles