1997 cutlass 561r , 555lw

I'm kinda at a lost here since the DEI 561-R has the relays built into the brain unit and the 555lw bypass (violet wire) is calling for a ( - ) start input which I cannot get since the output is ( + ) coming from the brain.





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03 Jeep Rubicon, many mods.
04 Yamaha R6

1997 Olds Cutlass Supreme is the car model.


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03 Jeep Rubicon, many mods.
04 Yamaha R6

1. You could use a relay to reverse the polarity, here and any other time you need to.

2. The 561R does have a (-) start output. It's in the 4 small gauge wire along with the (-) 3rd ignition, 2nd accessory, and status output.

3. Assuming the Cutlass Supreme has VATS (identifiable by the visible resistor pellet in the key), the violet wire on the 555L doesn't need connected to anything. It, and the BLACK/ white bulb test output, are only used on Passlock I-equipped vehicles.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Dude thanks!! Yes it has the black pellet in the key and the metal sliver silver piece, so that is vats and not passlock? Passlock is the keys with the black solid head that say GM on them correct?

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03 Jeep Rubicon, many mods.
04 Yamaha R6

So the wires to hook up would be 12v +, Ground, blue/black? Or rather wire as if passlock 1 but minus the voilet and BLACK/ white?

Been awhile since I did a gm remote start..

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03 Jeep Rubicon, many mods.
04 Yamaha R6

Are you sure a 555L can be used as a VATS bypass?

I've never tried it, simply because a resistor and relay is so much less expensive.

Chris Luongo wrote:

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Are you sure a 555L can be used as a VATS bypass?

I've never tried it, simply because a resistor and relay is so much less expensive.

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It's the 555LW not the 555L bypass.   I have a 555L from my old alarm but no wiring harness for it.


What is the steps to wire it with relay and resistors?

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03 Jeep Rubicon, many mods.
04 Yamaha R6

Chris Luongo - I haven't tried it either, but I think it will work. Bypasskit advertises the PLJX will work on VATS as well, and their recommended install is pretty much identical to a Passlock II install. From what I've read on ALLDATA about Passlock, the resistor values used are similar to those used in VATS (maybe 500 ohm or so to about 17K ohm).

alpine2g - as Chris L. said, a relay and resistor is much cheaper than using the 555L. If you still want to use the 555L, I'd say you'll connect the pink/white ignition input as well.

Also, the VATS connector has 2 wires in an orange sheath going up the steering column.

These wires are incredibly thin (maybe 26 gauge) and annoying to connect to, so if you can, the best bet is to connect to these circuits on the other side of the column connector where the orange sheath ends(sometimes it's just a 2-pin standalone connector, other times it's through the big rectangular connector with the 7mm hex screw in the middle).

At that point, you'll want to meter them to determine which is the ground, and which is the resistance code wire.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

I'll give it a shot this week with the install otherwise I'll just bypass vats all together since I bought the car for $1500 anyways.

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03 Jeep Rubicon, many mods.
04 Yamaha R6