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2005 Saturn Ion Redline Door Lock Relays

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=117718
Printed Date: June 03, 2024 at 3:12 PM


Topic: 2005 Saturn Ion Redline Door Lock Relays

Posted By: the05bluredline
Subject: 2005 Saturn Ion Redline Door Lock Relays
Date Posted: November 14, 2009 at 1:19 AM

is this the correct method for wiring the "single Negative Wire" relays for my car and if it is what diode is used (or how is this determined) and how do i wire for both driver and passenger.
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Replies:

Posted By: the05bluredline
Date Posted: November 14, 2009 at 1:35 AM
the05bluredline wrote:

is this the correct method for wiring the "single Negative Wire" relays for my car and if it is what diode is used (or how is this determined) and how do i wire for both driver and passenger.
posted_image


and also where is the diode placed between pin 85 and green wire(-)lock)on top relay and pin 85 and blue wire(-)unlock) on bottom relay or does is go between pin 87a and door lock switch on bottom relay and between pin 30 and vacuum pump on top relay. I know it needs to be diode isolated i just dont know where they need to be placed.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 14, 2009 at 3:23 AM
I would check your lock wire info, that diagramme is fine for Mercedes/Audi mid 80s on,  reversing polarity single wire control. Having looked at the 03 on the vehicle wiring section on this site, it shows neg log and unlock at the BSM so your alarm's green and blue go to those two wires with the diodes, 1N4004 in line on the green and blue with the bands towards the alarm. Suggest you look at the vehicle wiring site since you haven't mentioned the year and why should I do your work for you? You won't need the relays.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 14, 2009 at 3:29 AM
A slight apology is called for, I've just looked at the listings, 03/04/05 and they all give different lock systems!!!   Don't throw away the relays just yet, but please, obey the posting rules and tell us which year,  your vehicle is a prime reason for stating year and model!  By the way the other post should have said BCM not BSM.




Posted By: the05bluredline
Date Posted: November 14, 2009 at 3:04 PM
Sorry, its a 2005 Saturn Ion Redline coupe. I looked at the vehicle wire diagram from this site and it states that it is a single negative white wire and to look at diagram and the diagram i posted is the one i found. Thanks for you help it is appreciated




Posted By: jim hunter
Date Posted: November 14, 2009 at 4:32 PM
sorry to sound cynical but if your asking how to wire up a simple relay setup for one wire door locks is this install really something you feel you should be attempting? probing wrong wires or tagging wrong ones can damage bcm( EXPENSIVE) is the risk worth it to save a few bucks labor having a competent installer wire for you?what are you installing? keyless entry ( to factory locks)or keyless start, alarm?
its a 1 wire lock setup, straight ground to unlock and ground thru a 1500 ohm resistor to lock




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 14, 2009 at 4:36 PM
OK, I looked as well, if you mean the single white wire at the BCM this is the way to go. Green lock to relay 85. Good ground to relay 30, 12v+ constant to 86 and join 87 to single white wire. Unlock blue to second relay 85, god ground to relay 30, 12v+ constant to 86 and join 87 to the white wire at the same point but this time insert a 1.5Kohm resistor inline between 87 and the white wire.  Share the grounds and the 12volts on the relays, fuse the 12volts at 3amps. Thr reason for the relays is that the lock outputs won't give enough juice to overcome the resistance. The relays also isolate the Ion's locking system from the alarm so diodes aren't needed. This is assuming your alarm system and you STILL haven't followed the rules and told me what it is only has the two lock/unlock wires. If it has 6, you won't need the relays.




Posted By: the05bluredline
Date Posted: November 14, 2009 at 10:55 PM
jim hunter wrote:

sorry to sound cynical but if your asking how to wire up a simple relay setup for one wire door locks is this install really something you feel you should be attempting? probing wrong wires or tagging wrong ones can damage bcm( EXPENSIVE) is the risk worth it to save a few bucks labor having a competent installer wire for you?what are you installing? keyless entry ( to factory locks)or keyless start, alarm?
its a 1 wire lock setup, straight ground to unlock and ground thru a 1500 ohm resistor to lock


The only installer that i have next to me that would agree to install it gave me an estimate of $75 an hour at 8 hours so that's $600 in labor. As with anything of this nature yes it is difficult to do and can have bad results if it were done wrong but everybody has to learn to do it and thats what i am trying to do. I want to get M.E.C.P certified from mobile dynamics in Arizona so this can give me a little insight. its not like I'm some idiot that doesn't know anything I am just doing my research. Asking the professionals. People that have had some hands on experience.




Posted By: the05bluredline
Date Posted: November 14, 2009 at 11:04 PM
howie ll wrote:

This is assuming your alarm system and you STILL haven't followed the rules and told me what it is only has the two lock/unlock wires. If it has 6, you won't need the relays.


What? if your talking about what alarm hears the diagram:
posted_image




Posted By: mikvot
Date Posted: November 14, 2009 at 11:55 PM
Yes, Howie was talking about what kind of alarm system you were installing. If the system would of had onboard relays, the wiring would be different. Anyways, click here for diagram.




Posted By: the05bluredline
Date Posted: November 15, 2009 at 12:54 AM
mikvot wrote:

Yes, Howie was talking about what kind of alarm system you were installing. If the system would of had onboard relays, the wiring would be different. Anyways, click here  for diagram.


Shouldn't the white wire be cut? and shouldn't there be diodes inline of the alarm lock/unlock wires




Posted By: the05bluredline
Date Posted: November 15, 2009 at 12:56 AM
Shouldn't the white wire be cut? and shouldn't there be diodes inline of the alarm lock/unlock wires
posted_image




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 15, 2009 at 3:20 AM
I'm not going to scream at you as I normally do and Mr. Hunter intimated but why cut?  You are not interrupting anything, you are joining to an existing wire as for the diodes, right you're taking an MECP course can you see where the lock wires from you alarm are going to?  Yes the relays.  That effectively isolates the alarm's output from the car. To gild the lilly slightly, place diodes across the relay coils, that is between your  plus and minus coil with the diode bands towards the plus side. This will stop onrush current or back feed from going back down the lock and unlock wires.  In practice it doesn't matter but in theory that last diagramme is wrong. The right hand relay should have 85 and 86 turned round, the ISO and vehicle manufacturers ALWAYS make 85 the neg and 86 the pos sides of the coil. A relay is a switch or in this case a current amplifying switch. Congratulations you've just been introduced to Central Locking 101, N.B. Top of my head I can think of 8 different locking systems straight off so please read your course notes and where it says TEST do so. Just another point the; 30 and 87 are the wrong way round but again it doesn't matter and the next answer is 1/4 watt relay. Don't panic, amateurs and rookies always bring up diodes, relays and confuse resistors and diodes, they THINK it sounds like they know what they are talking about posted_image




Posted By: jim hunter
Date Posted: November 15, 2009 at 11:43 AM
well if the only installer in your area is saying 8 hours labor to install an alarm@75.00 per hour hes obviously not good!or he just flat out doesnt want to mess with whatever product you have( which you still havent told us what brand it is) that car is pretty easy to do, and no you dont need to cut the lock wire and use diodes,the bcm when it gets a straight12v ground signal will lock the doors, when it recieves a ground signal thru the 1500k resistor(which a resistor reduces voltage) will then unklock, all your doing is sending these siganls into the bcm, you are not sending them nto the lock motors so cutting would accomplish nothung but causing locks to not work right if at all




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 15, 2009 at 1:32 PM
I would have said $50 an hour and three hours on a car ever never done before!




Posted By: the05bluredline
Date Posted: November 15, 2009 at 10:00 PM
Very sorry everybody. I keep thinking about the problem at hand and not the forum educate. Just to get it all out there I have a 2005 Saturn Ion Redline and I am trying to install a Scytek Vision Guard 8000 Remote start/Alarm with camera. And to Howie ll I am not currently taking the M.E.C.P. courses I am trying to save the money to go to Mobile Dynamics in Arizona. I would like to accomplish this install myself. I am not just relying on you guys to do the work for me. I am researching as much as i can when i can to get the understanding of why and how things work they way they do. I am just getting you guys to check my work. I appreciate all the information i have gotten from you guys. Thank you. To get back to it how does this look: (i assume you meant 1/4 watt resistor)
      posted_image




Posted By: the05bluredline
Date Posted: November 15, 2009 at 10:33 PM
is it possible to set this system for driver priority?




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 16, 2009 at 2:41 AM
 It's correct, you would have to use the green wire to lock all doors, then use the primary unlock wire (blue)to unlock the driver's door via the lock motor wires so you will need another relay, set up as a 5 wire control, use the blue from the alarm to control that and the secondary unlock from the alarm goes to the unlock relay in the above diagramme instead. Your graphics are very good by the way.




Posted By: the05bluredline
Date Posted: November 16, 2009 at 12:48 PM

Great. Thanks every body and a special thanks to Howie 11.  Another question that i have now is in the diagram below the wire that says +12v relay power output 100ma can the door lock relays 12v be connected to this? I only ask because it says 100ma isn't that the power being output by the wire?

posted_image





Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 16, 2009 at 3:59 PM
Yes but unless that wire is on that plug it would be far easier to tap into an existant constant 12v+ and feed your relays via a 1amp fuse.




Posted By: the05bluredline
Date Posted: November 18, 2009 at 10:38 AM
Ok the next question that i have is, How do you arm/disarm the factory alarm? all the wire diagram charts that i have looked at say that it can only be armed/disarmed from the factory remote. shouldn't there be a arm/disarm wire(s) some where on the BCM?




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 18, 2009 at 11:28 AM
I'm afrad your info is correct, I don't know the answer except disarm the factory alarm and then don't use the factory remote.




Posted By: the05bluredline
Date Posted: November 18, 2009 at 1:25 PM

howie ll wrote:

I'm afrad your info is correct, I don't know the answer except disarm the factory alarm and then don't use the factory remote.

what are the advantages and disadvantages of  arming the factory alarm anyways? itsn't the aftermarket alarm just as effective?





Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 18, 2009 at 1:29 PM
If the factory alarm does nothing, turn it off before you start and ignore it.




Posted By: jim hunter
Date Posted: November 18, 2009 at 3:00 PM
factory alarm is only controlled by factory remote as its internal to the bcm/keyless entry setup, if you had locked the doors and lost or broken the remote when you open your door alarm will trigger and will disarm when a correctly coded key is inserted in to the ign and turned on, so theres no way to arm the factory alarm without the factory remote, you could disarm it without the remote by using relays to momentarily pulse the ignition and the bypass, but since you cant arm it without the remote theres no reason to need to do this





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