what to do with 2nd ignition wire?

I am currently installing a ProStart remote starter in a manual '98 Tercel. The problem a ran into is that there are two ignition wires coming off of the ignition solenoid. My remote start module only has one wire for ignition. How do I hook up the remote starter to these two wires? Do I connect them with a relay? If so what is the wiring for the relay?

Does this unit have a negative status out put or a ground when running wire? If so do this

85-12v
86-status output - or ground when running
30- second ignition
87-12v

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A DMM is a beautiful thing.

MECP Advanced Installer Certified.

muaiad97 wrote:

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or  85 =igntion

     86 = ground

    30 = 12v

   87 =  2 igntion

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Using this wiring, can the wire connected to pin 86 (ground), be a wire from that pin to the chassis, or does it have to be come from the remote starter module some how?
Also, what is meant by status output?
I really appreciate the help.

Or this existing: ign feed from r/s, branch to 86, 12v+ constant fused at 30amps to 30, ground to 85 and 87 to second ignition. That's the correct relay wiring to ISO standard and how the car manufacturer will wire it.
85 coil neg
86 coil pos
30 common or input
87a NC
87 no
I'm not being anal but if you play it the first 2 posters way with the car's relays you're going to land yourself with some expensive problems.

muaiad97 wrote:

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or  85 =igntion

     86 = ground

    30 = 12v

   87 =  2 igntion

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Use zerepdivad's method, if you go this route you will be powering up that relay everytime you start the vehicle with the key too.

The status output zerepdivad refers to is an output that provides a (-) when the remote starter is active. It is normally used to trigger a bypass module and is also referred to a ground when running.

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MECP Master Certified Technician
ASE A6 Certified Technician

Hurleyloser is right, I'm wrong, wire 85 should have the GWR wire going to 85.

I found this on the ProStart website:
85= connects in parallel to ign.1 from r/s.
86= GWR from r/s
87= connected to a fused +12V source that is capable of supplying power for the 2nd ign.
30= vehicles 2nd ign. wire

The only one that doesn't make sense to me is port 87. What +12V source can I use? Will I find this under the dash? Battery?

Try reading my revised post 12v+ CONSTANT is on all the Time, ign feed or fuse box entry. And that one you published is identical to my revised post except for the terminals but in practice it doesn't matter.

Not sure what prostart model you had. Doesn't the module have a green wire on the main harness ?  If so, you can set it as 2nd ign, 2nd starter or 2nd accessory by putting the jumper in the proper slot at the back of the module.

yeah post your prostart model number.
you must have a very old model

because all the latest model have a 2nd ignition wire

if not, i suggest using the ground out when running wire (Should be the white wire of your prostart brain) to a relay

Well i got this remote start on a clearance special. It doesn't have the second ignition /starter wire and is an older model.
Model is CT-3160M

howie ll wrote:

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Or this existing: ign feed from r/s, branch to 86, 12v+ constant fused at 30amps to 30, ground to 85 and 87 to second ignition. That's the correct relay wiring to ISO standard and how the car manufacturer will wire it.
85 coil neg
86 coil pos
30 common or input
87a NC
87 no
I'm not being anal but if you play it the first 2 posters way with the car's relays you're going to land yourself with some expensive problems.

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What expensive problem would that be?

-------------
A DMM is a beautiful thing.

MECP Advanced Installer Certified.

Practically complete. After working on this car a few hours here and there this car can now be 'remotely started'.

Wire diagram errors I ran into:
1. Brake switch wire. It is not the red white wire as listed in numerous diagrams but the green white wire. This can be tested on your car by putting one end of a multimeter to a ground (chassis) and the other end to the brake wire of interest. Test RED / white and GREEN / WHITE and the other wires at the brake switch if you wish. Match up the wire with the one that matches the voltage required by the remote start module.

2. Tach wire. located the blue wire from the ECM and it had way to low of voltage for this Prostart I installed. Maybe with some manual tach adjust on the module I could have used it. I instead decided to go with a wire off the fuel injector. This wire only required automatic tach adjustment.

Lack of parking lights
Throughout doing the programming the parking lights never flashed stayed on or did any thing to help with programming. Instead I hooked up a multimeter, one end to the chassis, other end to parking light pin on RS module. This displayed when the parking lights should have been flashing. The multimeter did not give a quick enough of a response to distinguish between 3 and 4 flashes. It did indicate when they where on though. I was also able to here the RS start relays clicking to activate the lights.

Any idea on why the parking lights never lit up? bulbs burnt out? I checked every fuse with a multimeter, none indicated an open circuit. What should the parking lights look like, white, yellow, middle of grill, fender side of headlight assembly? The car does have white lights lit when running, parking brake disengaged. And headlights when turned on with switch.