two cars, bypass modules?

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=118243
Printed Date: July 03, 2025 at 3:53 AM

Topic: two cars, bypass modules?

Posted By: sinr98
Subject: two cars, bypass modules?
Date Posted: December 05, 2009 at 3:27 AM

First off I am new to the remote start installs and the use of bypass modules. So all help is appreciated.

My first install is on a 06 Chrysler Town and Country. It is a Crime Stopper RS-1. It has the intregated key and fob style key. I was thinking about using a PKUCG2X bypass module for it since I don't want to buy another key for it. Will this be the module I would want?

My second install is on a 04 Silverado SS. The unit I am installing on it is a SCYTEK 5000rs-2w. I am kinda lost on the bypass module for this one. I don't know if the XK06 or the GMDL-BP would be my best bet.

Any suggestions on the bypass modules are appreciated.

Replies:

Posted By: jperez_jr_
Date Posted: December 05, 2009 at 4:31 PM

The xk06 is fine for the silverado, I believe it's just passlock 2 so it shouldn't be too hard. The Chrysler on the other hand may give you some hardship. Chryslers are not an installers favorite pick for installing remote starters, at least for me.

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Jorge Perez

Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: December 05, 2009 at 6:15 PM

I just did an '03 Caravan for a one-button remote start; I think they're easy!

Anyway, yes, that PKUCG2X should be fine for the Town & Country. I usually use a universal bypass box, with an aftermarket Chrysler Sentry Key (ebay, hlflake.com) inside because it's a little cheaper.

You do have two good, working keys for your Town and Country, correct? If you have only one key, the PKUCG2X can't be programmed......although ADS now has a setup (which costs more) that only needs one key.

For the Silverado:

XK06 does immobilizer bypass only; you'd have to put relays in both front doors for the doorlocks...not worth it.

GMDLBP is probably the one you'll want; reasonable price, does immobilizer, doorlocks, door trigger, and panic.

XK01 adds heated seats and defroster activation at 32*F or below, but loses panic function, also costs slightly more.

Fortin (ifar.ca) and ADS (idatalink.com) also have modules that will work well with your truck.

Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: December 05, 2009 at 6:35 PM

Howard keys is another place to get blanks...Think chris is spot on...Nothing really to add there...The GM_DLBP is simple...When i use to pre-load alarms for dealerships...The Dodge lots were always the last ones to get done...Dang resistors...I could do 3 civics/corollas/etc in the same time...! There not so bad anymore...There was problems with Dodges/Chryslers using the D2D option on the bypass and having to use the W2W method instead...Chips not programming...Chips not even in the bypass harness...And why is this thing not going into /learning the programming..."What time is the customer picking up the car"...?? Just to clarify...Your key has keyless built in right...? This is why you didnt want to add/purchase another key...? I love the new bypasses and use them frequently...But i just cant let go of the universal...Probably those dang single button starters...Not so bad to use FLTB1 when you've upsold keyless... posted_image

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

Posted By: sinr98
Date Posted: December 11, 2009 at 1:44 AM

Thanks for the help guys. I purchased the pkucg2x for the Chrysler and the gmdl-bp for the silverado.

Will I have to add any relays to the Chrysler other than the Bypass itself? Yes the vehicle has the keyless built into the key. I do have 2 keys for it, and I didn't want to spend the $ on another key. It also has power sliders and liftgate.

Thanks for the help

Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: December 11, 2009 at 8:54 AM

In my opinion, you shouldn't need any extra relays to do your install on your Town and Country. Others might disagree. But to me, that's one of the easiest cars around!

You might need a resistor or two.

Brake (WHITE/ tan) is right at the brake switch.

Negative headlight trigger (through a resistor) is WHITE/ brown at the back of the headlight switch. If you don't have resistors, you can get positive parking lights (straight connection, no resistor required) in the driver's kick panel, in the harness running to the rear of the car.

Tach is at the coil pack on top of the motor, and there's a grommet in the firewall, making it easy to run the wire through. But these cars also work well in voltage sensing mode, with no tach connection.

At the ignition switch, you'll have constant, ignition, starter, a wire that tests as ground (PURPLE / orange) and a wire that tests as various voltages depending on key position (PURPLE / brown).

The PURPLE / brown is supposed to receive a ground through a 180-ohm resistor during cranking.

I use Audiovox remote starters, and they have an output called "pulse during crank" that makes a weak ground...similiar enough to the 180 ohms that I just hook it up directly and it works fine.

I've never installed a Crimestopper, but I looked up the RS-1 on the internet, and it does list a "dedicated negative start output" as one of its features......I would just do that, hook it up straight and forget the resistor and relay; it'll probably work.

If you don't even bother to hook up the PURPLE / brown to anything at all, it still works fine as well....only '01-03 won't start at all without it hooked up.

And then you'll see that your Crimestopper has outputs for lock, unlock, domelight supervision, factory alarm disarm.....don't need any of that. You're already carrying your factory keyfob with you; just use that to open your doors.

Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: December 11, 2009 at 9:09 PM

HUH...to the 180 ohm thing...Never even crossed my mind...Huh...!

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

Posted By: sinr98
Date Posted: December 12, 2009 at 12:33 AM

Ok I am totally lost here now. I attempted to wire up the Scytek on the Silverado with the gmdl-bp bypass module. Between the Scytek, gmdl-bp and the wiring schematics I am lost on some of it. Like the door lock trigger out and the constant power wire, and the neg when running and pretty much all the wiring. Can I splice the wires from the module to the wires in the Scytek that are the same? I have been up for 32hrs so I am not thinking straight either. Thanks for all your help guys

Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: December 12, 2009 at 4:10 AM

Ok let me try to remember the GMDLBP if I can.

Green lock input: lock output from alarm

Blue unlock input: unlock output from alarm

Brown GWR input: ground-when-running from alarm

Black: chassis ground

Red: constant power

PURPLE / white: no connection

purple: purple wire in OBDII diagnostic port under dashboard above parking brake pedal

pink/white: negative door trigger input on alarm

pink: no connection if truck is a 2-door. Yes, the manual is wrong; trust me. Unless you have four doors, you don't have to do all that stuff with splicing into the domelight.

Posted By: sinr98
Date Posted: December 14, 2009 at 8:50 AM

< color=#ffffff size=6 >< color=#ffffff size=6 >< color=#ffffff size=6 >
This is going on a 04 Silverado SS
Vehicle wiring diagram is here
PART COLOR LOCATION
12 VOLT CONSTANT RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
STARTER YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
STARTER 2 N/A
IGNITION 1 PINK (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
IGNITION 2 WHITE (+) See NOTE *6 IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
IGNITION 3 N/A
ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 1 ORANGE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 2 N/A
KEYSENSE N/A
PARKING LIGHTS ( - ) GRAY/BLACK (-) @ BCM, BROWN or TAN Plug, Pin B2, See NOTE *1
PARKING LIGHTS ( + ) N/A
POWER LOCK See NOTE *4
POWER UNLOCK See NOTE *4
DOOR TRIGGER GRAY/BLACK (-) and BLACK/ WHITE (-) Use both, See NOTE *2 @ DOOR MODULE in each Front DOOR
DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION GRAY/BLACK (-) See NOTE *8, Requires #R30-H Relay @ DRIVERS DOOR MODULE in DOOR
TRUNK RELEASE N/A
SLIDING POWER DOOR N/A
HORN BLACK / YELLOW (-) @ Comming from the TOP of the Steering Column
TACH WHITE, See NOTE *7 @ PCM, GREEN plug, Pin 10, See NOTE *3
WAIT TO START LIGHT See NOTE *5
BRAKE WHITE (+) @ SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
FACTORY ALARM DISARM LIGHT GREEN (-) @ DRIVER DOOR MODULE in DRIVERS DOOR.
ANTI-THEFT YELLOW (+), BLACK (-) and RED / WHITE (Not Used) GM's PASSLOCK 2 System, wires are in Ignition Switch Harness
EXTRA INFORMATION
NOTE *1 The BCM (Body Control Module) is located JUST below the Steering Column of the vehicle, the BCM has (3)Plugs facing the cab of the vehicle. The (3) Plugs are WHITE, BROWN or TAN and LIGHT BLUE. The 4th Plug, a PURPLE is located on the Back of the BCM. NOTE *2 On BASE model vehicles the DOOR Triggers are at the BCM in a LIGHT BLUE Plug, the DRIVER DOOR is a GRAY/BLACK (-) Pin B4, the PASSENGER DOOR is a BLACK/ WHITE (-) Pin A5. On all other trucks these wires are in each DOOR MODULE in each door. On the 4-door the DRIVERS rear door is LIGHT BLUE/BLACK (-) Pin A3, the PASSENGERS rear door is a LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK (-) Pin A2 in the PURPLE Plug. When connecting to an ALARM SYSTEM, you must DIODE ISOLATE these wires, See DAIGRAM NOTE *3 The PCM (Powertrain Control Module) is located in the LEFT FRONT of the engine compartment to the left of the fan shroud. NOTE *4 This vehicle will Requires a Anti-Theft Bypass Module Part GMDL-BP to connect the Door Locks and Bypass the PASSLOCK 2 System.If not connecting doorlocks you can use a gmbp or #791 bypass. NOTE *5 when hooking up a REMOTE STARTER on a DIESEL, if the WAIT to START wire from the Remote Starter does not wait until the Light on the dash turn out before cranking, you will need to program in the 5,10 or 15 Second WAIT to START TIMMER in the Installation Manual. On some vehicles the Wait to Start Light on the dash is not a true (+)Positive or (-)Negative and the wire from the Remote Starter will not owrk. When this Wait to Start Timmer is programmed, disconnect and tape up the Wait to Start wire from the Remote Starter that is tied into the Wait to Start Light on the dash. NOTE *6 IMPORTANT !!!!! this wire MUST BE CONNECTED as IGNITION #2 for REMOTE STARTING!!!!!! NOTE *7 On DIESEL ENGINES the TACH is WHITE in the BLACK Bottom plug, Pin 37 on the HYBRID the TACH is in a GREEN Plug, Pin 35 NOTE *8 On the 2006 the DOME LIGHT wire is a DARK BLUE/WHITE (-) C4 of the BCM, Pin B9

This is the wiring from the Scytek Alarm Remote Start
Wiring Diagram
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ScyNet

< size=1 >< size=1 >Green Lock output (-) 500mA

Blue Unlock output (-) 500mA

< size=1 >< size=1 >

GREEN / WHITE Brake Input(+)

BLACK/ Gray Tachometer Input

WHITE/ Red Auxiliary 2 Output (-)500mA

BLACK/ White Dome Light output (-)500mA (must use relay)

Yellow Ignition Input (+) ( Must Be connected

Blue / YELLOW Glow plug (wait to start) Input (+)

Blue/White Passenger Unlock Output (-)500mA

Blue/Orange Remote Start Output (-)500mA

Black Ground

Red +12V Battery Input #3

Violet Door Trigger Input (+)

Green Door Trigger Input (-)

WHITE/ Black Hood/Trunk Input (-)

Orange Armed Output (-)500mA

Violet/White Factory Alarm Disarm Output (-)500mA

WHITE/ Violet Auxiliary 3/Factory Alarm Arm Output (-)500mA

Brown Siren Output (+)3A

Gray Auxiliary 1 Output (-)500mA

White Parking Light Output (+/- built-in relay)

BROWN / White Horn Output (-)500mA

< size=1 >< size=1 >

Violet Starter Output

Yellow Ignition 1 Output

Orange Accessory Output

Brown Ignition 2 Output

Red +12V Battery Input #1

Red +12V Battery Input #2

Here is the bypass module wiring diagrams.

https://www.bypasskit.com/getdocument.aspx?documentid=1646

Basically I am looking to make sure I am on the right path with the wiring. Thanks for all the help