Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2006 honda civic factory alarm wires

I'm installing a remote start in my 2006 Honda Civic 4dr EX and for the life of me I can't find the alarm arm and disarm wires. I've spent an entire day cutting and testing and can't nail them down. Here is a link to the description of where they are supposed to be but I just can't figure it out, I'm really not sure what the MICU looks like.

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~63792

One more question since I'm a DIY'r, when I'm testing for the wire my MM shouldn't show current until I lock or unlock the doors correct. The factory arm and disarm are neg. polarity so I hook the positive to a constant 12V and then put the ground on the wire I'm looking for and the correct one should ground until it is armed or disarmed correct?

On the back of the fuse panel at the top you will find the OEM arm and disarm wires there as well as the unlock and lock wires.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

The Civic is very cramped in that area. The easist way to get those wires is at the MICU, which is part of the Fuse Box. As Jeff said, it's the backside of the Fuse Box. There are 2 plugs near the top. The 34 pin plug has the wires you are looking for. Arm is orange at pin 32 and Disarm is brown at pin 31. You will have to open up the wire harness bundle alittle.

You can hook up your DMM as you stated but when the Arm or Disarm pulse happens, your meter should show +12 volts. Attach the meter and turn the key in the drivers door to Lock/Arm or Unlock/Disarm.

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the responses, I stumbled on to some of the wires but after looking I think I hooked disarm to the door unlock instead of the disarm. Moving on, man that is crazy cramped in there, so the MICU is the top green plugs on in the back of the fuse box? Is there a way to see them better or unplug them? I just opened up the harness and started probing wires and got luck (wish I would have picked that harness first..)

Tomorrow I need to get in there and hook up the lock and unlock wires and find the brown disarm wire. Any advice is appreciated.

Lock is green (-) at MICU 34 pin plug, pin 28

Unlock is gray (-) at MICU 34 pin plug, pin 27

As Jeff said, all 4 wires are on the same plug.

It is possible to drop the fuse box down a bit without removing plugs. I think there are 1 or 2 silver screws fastening it to metal brackets.

Crawl in there, use plenty of light and take you time...... posted_image

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Soldering is fun!

If you look on the back of the fuse box. they are the THINNEST 2 wires there. I overlooked it several times.

Ok, thanks for the help, I got the wires connected but now I have two issues. First, the grey wire I connected doesn't show ground until the second time I hit unlock on my factory remote, so my alarm won't unlock it. I probed another grey wire up there and it doesn't show gnd when I DMM it but I accidentaly grounded it and it lock the doors so I'm wondering if there are two grey wires that unlock.

Second issue, anyone familary with compustar remote starts, I'm trying to get into the programming mode through the remote and for the life of me I can't get it to go into the programming mode after i hit the sequences on the remote button.

If you look at the installation guide for the ADS-BLADE-AL(HA) manual 1640 page 8, you will find a diagram for the door lock wires.

Can you tell us which remote you have for othe Compustar system ?

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

This might be a dumb question but... Did you code the remotes to the control unit ( IGN switch 5 on/off's within 7 seconds then hit button 1 ( lock ) on each remote) ? I usually do this on the bench with a battery attached to the control units power wires & ground and pulse IGN lead with +12 volts 5 times. You can put your DMM on ground & (+) parking light output to see responses.

If yes, do the remotes work the lock/unlock? You will hear relays click and the parking lights will flash.

Can't help too much after that, I use the OP500 to set options but the process does differ slightly between one way & two way remotes.

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Soldering is fun!

There is no such thing as a dumb question Kreg... Yes the remote is programmed, after reading the instructions the 100th time I realized that the remote doesn't display the program info it only gives you beeps and a confirmation flash. So I was able to change my tach wire programing to auto sensing 2-10 (do you recommend that) but I was unable to change the 1-4 setting for a double pulse unlock. When you change a setting it give you corresponding flashes to the option, I got that for the tach wire but not for the double unlock.

When I finally tried the remote start it started (the ignition seemed be on a little long) but then it turned off after a few seconds and kept retrying until I hit the lock button to shut it off, any ideas? It is really cold up here right now and the engine revs a little higher in the cold but that should be it.

A couple of thoughts.

The Compustar R/S's usually have a 3 second delay after you hold the start button for 2.5 seconds & the parking lights flash before it starts cranking. Thats annoying but normal.

Not real sure if your problem is the bypass or the R/S. (Although it sounds like a tach sense problem.) Which bypass did you use? Did it program OK? Try the R/S sequence with the key in the ignition but not turned at all. That will tell you if it's the bypass.

If you hooked up the Tach wire ( Fuel Injector is the most reliable for cold climates ) then set the Compustar for Tach Mode (Default setting 1). Fuel injector wire is oppisite the common Yellow/Black wire. You can check it with DMM set on AC. Should see around a .6 volt signal at idle that increases with RPMs.

Not sure which Compustar model you have. I have been using the newer 5200 and 6200 units. They require a manual tach learn process before a R/S sequence will work.

1. Start the car with the key. Let it idle down.

2. Step on the brake pedal ( must have the (+) Brake input hooked up).

3. Press and hold the Start button 2.5 seconds. If you have a good tach source, the parking lights will flash once. 3 flashes means it didn't learn.

Almost forgot. Did you see the warnings about using the (+) parking light signal? Safer to use the (-) parking light wire, gray wire in the steering column at the light switch harness.

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Soldering is fun!

bypass, are you talking about the blade ignition bypass? I have the blade installed, when it programmed it was successful blinking green light 2x's. I did notice when I drove it this morning that the blade was blinking 6 times green in color, not sure what that means, I'll need to look.

I set the tach wire to auto sensing, so maybe I should connect it to the fuel injector wire, the yllw/blck wire you mention is that the honda factory wire or compustar wire?

I did use the gray wire in the steering column.

I'm installing the 5000 unit, the RF-P2WSS.

Thanks again.

OK. Compustar CM5000 with blade. Which Blade? There are 2 possibilities. It sounds like you have the ADS Blade-TB if you are hooking up the Compustar to the door locks and the alarms. That means you should have downloaded the Blade-TB HA firmware to the blade module. The 20 pin harness that comes with the blade gets plugged into the CM5000 and you connect the the Gray/Red wire from that harness to the car as per the IDatalink instructions for Type 4 installs. When you program it, the green light comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out. If you have the Blade-AL, thats a whole different ball game.

As for the Tach wire, from the CM5000 its CN3 pin 14 - Yellow/Black. It connects to any Fuel Injector. There are two wires on each injector. All have the common Yellow/Black wire and each has a unique colored second wire. Thats the wire you want. On the Civic they are hard to get to but it affords the most reliable signal for cold climates. My Compustar manual gives 4 choices for CM5000 option 2-10. 1=Tach 2=Alternator 3=Volt Sense 4=1.5 second crank. You want choice 1, which is the default. Then do the manual tach lean process previously mentioned.

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Soldering is fun!

^ actually i just did one of these cars literally 3 days ago or so and tach was very easy to get to. It was right there at the injector which was very easy to get to.

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A DMM is a beautiful thing.

MECP Advanced Installer Certified.

On all Honda/Acura, the Blade is suppose to flash 4 times after remote start. This shows that the modules learned properly and is bypassing the immobilizer. Everytime you make changes to your wiring on your Blade, you have to reset the Blade cartridge to ensure a fresh program from the Data wire from the OEM immobilizer.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

I'm using the Blade TB, so it's just a one wire hook up to the data line. I didn't get a chance to work on it last night but going after it tonight, it better be done when I'm finished.

Zerepdivad - Do you remember the door unlock wire, it is grey the one I initially hooked up to doesn't show ground until the unlock is hit twice on the factory remote, there is another grey wire that I grounded and it unlocked the doors but it did register on my DMM. I tried changing my door lock programming to give a double pulse but for whatever reason it's not doing it, I don't have the programming tool just using the remote.

Thanks for the input I'll give an update tomorrow, it's freezing up here right now so I found a buddy with a heated garage so I can get this thing done.

I remember it being grey, but i don't recall it being double pulse. I remember it was just a basic single pulse. If you found another grey wire and grounded it and the droors unlocked then that's gonna be it. I remember it was a green plug up behind the fusebox. I got my disarm right there as well.

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A DMM is a beautiful thing.

MECP Advanced Installer Certified.

Well got it all done tonight thanks to everyones input, I really appreciate that! I found the fuel injector wire and that was the ticket to the start up. I will post more on that tomorrow so when someone in the future goes to find it they will know what is going on.

I do have one more option that I just couldn't get to work but didn't spend much time on it. The RPS unlock set up I couldn't get it to go into learn mode. I even went back and installed the driver door sensor since it seemed to want that as part of the set up mode. But after I would knock 10 time (man my knuckles hurt) it wouldn't go into learn mode. Anyone have suggestions?

here is my follow up on the civic fuel injector, as some of you may or may not know (i didn't know) that there is a fuel injector for each cylinder on the civic, so there are four to chose from but I would recommend the easiest one to get to and that is the left one when you are looking at the engine.

The fuel injectors are hidden if you don't know what you are looking for. When you are looking at the engine on the back side of the engine there is a plastic cover that kind of looks like it is part of the engine, grab that and pull up and it will come off. I think it is held in the middle and the right side. Once you have that the fuel injectors are exposed, you won't see them from the front because the back of the engine is tucked into the hood, so look from the left with a flash light. The first thing you'll notice is a plug coming in on the left side of the engine when you are looking from the front, now down to the right of that hidden is the first fuel injector, it is just held on by a clip so just squeeze both sides and pull up. Then trim the housing holding the two wire, the wires are short so you don't have a lot to work with. Thanks to Kreg I knew that the yellw/blk wire was the common wire and the other wire on mine which was red was the one you want. Just tap into it plug the injector back in and put the plastic cover back in place and you are set. Littl cramped but very doable. Also if you look on the firewall in the middle you will see a big wire housing coming out and right next to it a quarter sized empty rubber grommet, that is where I went through, on thee inside the fabric is cut out around it so it is easy to find an get through.

Still looking for some help on the RPS.