2009 toyota sienna remote start

I'm looking for a remote start solution for a 2009 Toyota Sienna that will retain the ability to remote unlock/lock/open sliding doors while the van is running. I was originally going to add an add-on starter using the factory remotes for the start trigger but it looks like you need to tap the keysense wire to disable the factory alarm and this would lock out the factory remotes from operating once the van is running. Does anyone have a suggestion for a system that will allow remote starting and lock/unlock/2 sliding door controls from a single remote? Thanks.

find the factory alarm/keyless module and use a relay to to open up the ignition to it.

There is a chance that this vehicle does not have a separate Keyless entry module. The door lock and unlock wires are at the BCM. Chances are the BCM is what controls the keyless entry. You can not trick the BCM.

That seems too simple. It appears that the keysense disables the OEM alarm but it also controls the remote fob lockout. If I interrupt the feed going to the factory module it seems like it would interfere with either of these features. I used to mess around with stuff a long time ago, but haven't touched an alarm or starter in about 10 years. It looks like the only solution would be to completely get rid of the factory fobs and get a system that has enough auxiliary outputs to control each sliding door. I saw an Autostart system that has buttons to do this but haven't seen anywhere to purchase it.

So, if I completely bypass the factory keyless system and just send a pulse to the lock/unlock wires with the aftermarket starter/keyless I shouldn't have a problem? I would just have to find a a system with adequate aux outputs for the sliding doors?

I tried getting the factory keyless to work during remote start on a 2004-2010 Sienna (forget which year, but they're all the same), and I never could get it.

The factory remotes are nothing too special, and doorlocks and sliding doors are SUPER easy to do on that car.

Instead of an add-on remote start, you're talking about five more wire connections (lock, unlock, two sliders, and one hatch), mounting the antenna on the glass, and of course paying a few bucks extra for the product....I'd do it that way if it were my car.

Look into the Audiovox Prestige APS-687a or APS-687N. You'll see that it has separate buttons for lock, unlock, start/trunk, and AUX 1 and AUX 2.

I usually hook those up so that "trunk" is the rear hatch, 1 is the left slider, and 2 is the right slider.

P.S. Some of the modules from ADS (idatalink.com) are said to have special coding that allows the factory remotes to work during remote start. I'm not sure if it applies to your 2009 Sienna or not. You might get in touch with them and check.

Thanks for the info. Yeah, the add-on is not an option anymore. I don't have the power hatch so I only need lock/unlock/2 sliders and I would like to keep the panic if possible. I was looking at the wire chart and it looks like I can hit the slider wires at the overhead switch. I assume there is a separate wire for each side. What bypass module do you recommend? I was looking at the XK05 but I'm a little confused about the different firmwares.

What is the difference between the 687A and 687N?

XK05 totally sucks for that car. Go to www.xpressdowload.com and read the install guide if you want....ridiculous. They have you running wires all over the place, and the wires with the XK05 don't reach and have to be extended.

ADS (idatalink.com) or Fortin (ifar.ca) both have excellent modules that are very easy to install right at the steering column.

I'm almost positive, from talking to some former co-workers, that the newest stuff from Audiovox with the "N" at the end of the model number, is that they've "decontented" the product a little bit to save some manufacturing costs.

The "N" series does NOT come with the following: four self-tapping screws, crimp-on ring terminal (for the ground wire), one diode pack, package of 15 resistors (for older GM cars with VATS).

Other than maybe the screws and ground connector, you won't be needing any of those other things for your install, so I wouldn't worry about it too much.

Also, you don't have to run up to the headliner to get the sliding doors.

Read this:
https://www.audiogroupforum.com/csforum/showthread.php?t=10631

All the Siennas I do, I do the same way, and I think they come out as very neat installations, because most of the wires are together in the same place.....the whole install only has five locations for wiring splices:

1. Ignition wires, horn, keysense (if XLE), parking lights, door trigger (if alarm/start combo), key transponder data: All in steering column harness.

2. Brake at driver's fuse box.

3. Tachometer at wiring bundle high above gas pedal. (Or sometimes I do them using voltage sensing, with no tach connection.)

4. Sliding doors at plug above parking brake pedal.

5. Locks in harness low in driver's kick panel, where it comes in from the door.

P.S. I'm guessing your van is an LE with whatever option package gives you the driver's slider? Only the XLE has a factory alarm; you shouldn't have to connect keysense.

Thanks for all of the info. The XK05 is definitely out. It's down to the PKALL/KEY-OVERRIDE-ALL or the ADS-TBSL-KO. My only concern with ADS is that if I order online, whether it would be shipped with the correct firmware. I really don't want to have to buy a loader. Mine is an LE, dual sliding doors, no power hatch. I'm not sure about the alarm, but I don't recall seeing an alarm/theft light on the dash anywhere. Amazon has the 687A so I may order it from them. I would really like to order the starter and bypass from the same place so if you have any suggestions I'm open to them.

Update:
Ordered the Prestige APS687A and the ADS-TBSL-KO. One more question. I was told this about the sliding doors:

To wire the sliding doors and the sunroof, a window module and a latched relay(165.00) for the 2 projects would be needed and extensive wiring surgery is required to interface after market control devices like alarms with keyless entries.

From the previous info this is not true about the doors(I don't have a sunroof). Can they just get hooked up to a negative pulse output or do I need the relay?

Just negative pulses. No relays, diodes, nothing.

You'll see that the install manual isn't very good, but after you take a look through it....

Red Audiovox lock wire: Connect to lock wire in car.

Green Audiovox unlock wire, AND RED / black second-unlock wire: Connect BOTH (yes, both, together) to the unlock wire in the car.

Go into programming menu and turn "2nd step unlock" to "on." You'll now have driver's-priority unlocking just like from the factory.

Sliding doors:

Connect Audiovox Channel 5 to left slider wire in car.

Connect Audiovox Channel 6 to right slider wire in car.

Channels 3 (trunk, on the green trunk/start button) and 4 (defrost, on the AUX1 button) are already programmed to the remotes.....but channels 5 and 6 are not.

Again, the separate "transmitter programming guide" that comes with the unit is awkward to read.........when I am more awake I'll help you to first un-program both remotes, and then re-program them so that Button 1 is Channel 5 (left slider), and Button 2 is Channel 6 (right slider).

Oh, and unless it's a CE (which it can't be, because it has power sliding doors) it should have a flashing red light on the dash that says "SECURITY," in one of those little black oval thingies to the right of the radio.

Anyway, here's how you test for a factory alarm, to see if you have one before beginning the installation:

1. Open either front window.

2. Turn car off, remove ignition key.

3. Close all doors, sliding doors, hatch, hood....everything.

4. Lock doors with factory remote.

5. Leave car untouched for more than 30 seconds. (Could leave it for a couple of minutes if you want, to be on the safe side.)

6. Pretend you just broke the door glass, but reach in through the open window and unlock and open the door by hand. You'll quickly know if you have an alarm or not.

Great. The only other questions I have is about the parking lights. I have seen some people had some trouble with the different -/+ wires in the van. If I tap the negative at the steering column switch, do I need to do anything special with the module?

One more question. What is the best way to activate the defrosters? I have seen a chart with the wire as YEL/GRN, but is it turned on with a neg pulse or do I need a relay?

Anyone about the defrost wire? I can access the wires at the switch easily just needing to know if I need to use a relay or just can use a negative pulse from the starter.

Generally speaking, if it's a thick positive wire, you need a relay.

If it's a thin negative wire, you shouldn't need a relay.

For sure, if you're getting it right at the switch, it's going to be low-current with no relay required.

Does the wire just make a ground for a moment when you press the button, or does it stay a ground the whole entire time after you press the button?

Regardless, you should be able to connect the Audiovox's GREEN/ black Channel 4 output straight to the wire at the swtich. When you get to the point where you program how you want your other features, you'll see that it's default on Pulsed (one-second pulse) but you can change it to Latched if necessary, which makes it a steady ground for some number of minutes. (I want to say it's 8 or 10 minutes, but I forget.)

NOTE: default, out of the box, Channel 4 is controlled by the buttton labeled "1."

If it were my van, I'd make it like this: "1" does left slider, "2" does right slider, and 1 and 2 together do rear hatch.

You could make Lock and Unlock together do the defroster.

But the first thing you have to do is un-program both remotes, so that the 1 button isn't tied to Channel 4 anymore, and then start all over and program them the way you want.

I can explain here how to un-program and then reprogram the remotes if you want, when you're ready, or you can even call me if you want after you get the unit wired up and working and we can do it over the phone, I don't mind.

P.S. You did say you bought the 687A, right? So it has those chrome remotes with Lock, Unlock, Start/Trunk, 1, and 2, correct?

And think about how you want to set up all the buttons.

Keep in mind that to hold buttons 1 and 2 at the same time, you probably need both hands free, which is not easy if you're carrying groceries.

Another choice would be to use the remote start/trunk button to do one of the sliders, then have 1 do the other slider, and 2 do the rear hatch.

(The rear hatch, I believe, requires a slight delay---you have to push and HOLD the button on the overhead console, right? Channel 3, which is tied to the start/trunk button, only puts out a 1-second pulse, and cannot be used to control the rear hatch.)

Also, to activate Channel 3, you have to push and hold the rs/trunk button for 4 seconds before it activates, which is painfully long, so keep that in mind too.

8 min trigger for the rear defrost

Thanks for the additional info. I don't have the power rear hatch, so I was thinking button 1 for left door, 2 for right door, and the quick press of the start button for the defrost. I'm getting ready to do this tomorrow morning so I'm trying to get everything lined up tonight. I'll test the defrost button tomorrow to see if it's a latched or momentary switch. I'm pretty sure it's a momentary switch to a relay because it returns all the way out after being pressed. You were right about the manual. It's not very good. Like I said before, I know just enough to be dangerous, so I appreciate all of the help. One more question for now and I'll be good for a while. The manual states that the unit is good for 300 mA negative outputs. Will any of the negative outputs(parking lights, locks, i.e) require relays?

BTW. Yes, it's the 687A and a ADS-TBSL-KO flashed with the latest firmware. It came with (2) five button black remotes.

You won't need relays for negative locks, negative park lights, or the sliders as they are all mA inputs. I have never done defrost in one so i just don't know...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Thanks for the info. Things went a lot slower today than I thought they would. The defrost seems to be a latched switch so I'll just set that channel for the eight minute latched. I think I got everything connected except for the tach wire,hood pin, and bypass. I had to pack it up for the day but I was able to test the lock/unlock and that seems to be working. I tried to remote start it with the key in the ignition but it wouldn't. I hope it's just something with the remote programming. I saw on here the tach wire is BLACK/ orange at the ECM. I was able to find a BLACK/ orange at the module but it just tested out at 12V when the ignition was on. Is there a good way to test a tach wire?

OK I'll try to answer everything, separating the parts about the tach and the remotes:

--------TACH----------

If you haven't hooked up the tach wire and programmed it to the unit, the remote start won't work.

You could go into programming, change from Tach to Voltage sensing, and then after you start the car at least once by key (because it averages your recent cranking times when starting with the key), it'll then work.

I do all those Siennas these days with Crank Averaging with good results, but if you prefer tach it's not a bad idea at all to hook it up.

I use my Power Probe LED test light to test for tach. If you have a digital multimeter, you can set it for AC and test for tach......black meter wire to ground, red to suspected tach wire. It'll show somewhere between 1 and 6 volts AC, and usually will rise if you rev the engine.

A slightly less orthdox method is to simply use the remote starter. The GREEN/ orange tach wire is only an input, not an output, and connecting it to the wrong wire won't hurt anything.

Find your suspected tach wire in the car, make a quick temporary connection with the GREEN/ orange (don't even bother taping or soldering), and try programming tach......if it programs, try the remote start. If it won't program, it's the wrong wire.

Very high up above the gas pedal is a thick wire harness with a whole bunch of BLACK/ orange wires, which all look the same. If you have the engery to test all of them, one of them is tach.

P.S. Even if you're averse to using voltage sensing, it's a great testing/troubleshooting tool. You could use voltage mode for the time being until you get your bypass and ignition wires correct, and leave tach for last.

--------REMOTES------------

OK, the first thing to keep in mind is once you un-program the remotes, you can re-program the buttons to do pretty much anything you want........there's no rule that the Lock button has to be the one to lock the doors.....if for some strange reason you wanted Unlock to be Lock.....#2 to be remote start.....#1 to be lock.........you probably wouldn't want to do that, but you could.

The second part is that Remote Start, and Channel 3 (blue trunk release wire) will always be on the same button. Channel 3 is Channel 3, which is start/trunk..........you can't make one button be for start and Channel 4, not possible.

When you go to program the remotes, you have the following:

Channel 1: Lock
Channel 2: Unlock
Channel 3: Start/Trunk (blue wire)
Channel 4: Defrost (GREEN/ black)
Channel 5: blue/stripe Channel 5 output
Channel 6: blue/stripe Channel 6 output
Channel 7: blue/stripe Channel 7 output

So then....two sliders, rear defrost, but no rear hatch?

I would make button 1 for left slider, button 2 for right slider, and 1 and 2 together for defrost.

-------UNPROGRAMMING REMOTES------

If you have the horn wire hooked up, this makes a ridiculous amount of noise, be forewarned.

You have to go through the procedure twice, once with each transmitter.

1. Ignition on.

2. Press/releas valet button 3 times; you'll hear one horn honk.

3. Press and release again; you'll hear two honks. One more time, you'll hear three honks...........continue doing this until you hear FIVE horn honks.

4. Press button 1 on transmitter; you'll hear a series of honks. Press button one another time, you'll hear a LOUD honk.

5. You've now been kicked out of programming mode, and the remote that's in your hand should also no longer work at all.

6. Turn ignition off, put the second remote in your hand, and repeat steps 1-5 again.

7. You should now have two completely non-funtional remotes. Now it's time to reprogram them to work the way you want.

----------REPROGRAMMING REMOTES-----------

1. Ignition on.

2. Press/release valet 3 times; you'll hear one honk. You're about to program Channel 1, which is Lock.

Press Lock button on first remote; hear one LOUD honk. Press Lock button on second remote, hear one LOUD honk.

3. Press/release valet 1 time; you'll hear two honks. You're now in programming for Channel 2, which is Unlock.

As in the last step, press Unlock on first remote, then Unlock on second remote.

You're probably understanding how the programming goes by now, right? Anyway....

4. Press/release valet 1 time; hear three honks.......programming for Channel 3, Start/Trunk.

Press Start/Trunk button on both remotes.

5. Press/release valet 1 time, hear 4 honks; you're now in Channel 4/Defrost programming.

What do you want to use for Defrost? I'd use Buttons 1 and 2 together.....or you might prefer Lock and Unlock together.

Anyway, press ANY combination of TWO buttons together; this will be how you activate defrost.

6. Press/release valet one time; hear five honks......Channel 5.........you connected the left slider to Channel 5, correct?

OK then, press button number 1 on each remote so that 1 will be your left slider

7. Press/release valet 1 time...........Channel 6........passenger slider, correct?

Press number 2 on each remote; this will be your passenger slider.

8 Press/release valet 1 time.........Channel 7. You have no rear hatch, so therefore nothing at all hooked up to Channel 7, correct?

Well, that's OK.......just press some combination of two buttons on the remote, and program them to Channel 7 anyway.

This way, if sometime in the future you want to use Channel 7 for something else, you don't have to go through all these programming steps again.

9. Ignition off, one LOUD honk, programming should be all done.

10. Test both remotes for proper functions. (Keep in mind that sliding doors won't work if the on/off control switches on the dashboard are not plugged in.)

Thanks a lot. I didn't program the tach, so I assume that's why it wouldn't remote start. I'll try it with the BLACK/ orange at the ECM and see what happens. Yes, that's how I connected the channel 4,5,6(defrost/left slider/right slider). All I need to do now is find the hood pin and connect the bypass.

Good,sounds like you're making good progress!

Just so you know, only the loaded XLE, the model with the factory alarm, has a factory hood switch, which is part of the underhood latch.

If your van is a CE or LE, there's no alarm and if you want a hoodpin, you'll need to install the one that comes with the kit.

Ok, thanks. I guess I would have be looking for long time. Your description for the location was very detailed, but I still couldn't find it. I guess I know why now. About the tach vs. voltage sensing. That's one of the things I was confused about. The install manual states the tach sense must be hooked up. But, now I see it has an option for voltage sensing. Do you know what feature #6 of bank 3 is? It has options of <.5V before start or >.5V before start.

That "tach must be hooked up" bit is something they probably did a cut-and-paste from one of their old manuals from years ago when they didn't have voltage sensing, I'm guessing.

That "greater than .5 volts" and "less than .5 volts" goes like this.

First, the unit remembers the amount of time you held the key in the Start position when you start the car manually with the key.

It averages your recent starts....not sure if it's the last four or eight starts.

Anyway, when you go to remote start, it turns on the ignition, then cranks the starter for the amount of time it recorded as an average, as stated above.


After a few seconds, it monitor's the car's voltage. That's because when the engine's running, the alternator's on, and the voltage will be higher than when it's off.

If the unit sees a voltage increase of 1/2 volt or more, it assumes the engine started successfully, turns on the parking lights, and stays engaged for whatever you set the runtime for (default 10 minutes).

Sometimes, maybe with the AC compressor running, the climate control fan on high, and the rear defroster on, it won't "see" the required .5 volt increase, and will shut off and retry---whether the engine has started or not.

I've almost always left Toyotas on the default "greater than .5 volt" setting.

If you find that the car ends up shutting off and restarting instead of staying running, you could select the other voltage setting, but I don't think you'll need to.

I think I'm good to go. It took a little while to find the right tach wire but there was a second BLACK/ organge at the ECM. It kept starting then shutting off right away, so I "relearned" it with the other wire and it stayed running. Then it took a while to get the bypass to program because I had the wrong code wire(yellow) tapped. But, once I got the right wire, it programmed right away with no problems. That thing is a pain to program, especially without the horn output. Overall, it was a good learning experience. I'll run through all of the options tomorrow and make sure everything is good. Again, thanks for all of the help. I don't know if I could have done it without the information given here.

A few things I have noticed:
1. You have to wait a few seconds after it starts before engaging channel 4/defrost or it won't stay latched.
2. If you remote start then cancel with the remote with the headlight switch "on", the automatic headlights will not shut off. I guess it figures no one has exited the vehicle and is waiting for a door to open before shutting off the lights.

The headlights will shut off after 15 minutes, but if you do a search here about Toyota auto headlights you will find info on adding a relay to bypass the auto lights while the RS is on....

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Thanks. I'll probably just try to get the wife to turn the headlight switch off when turning off the van. Because, with the switch on "headlight on," the parking light confirmation does not work for the lock/unlock.

I just tried it again and the headlights did not shut off after 30 minutes. This van doesn't have the "automatic" headlights, just the "auto-off" feature. It will shut the headlights off after about 30 seconds after you exit the vehicle even if you leave the switch on.

Sorry to hijack the thread...
I am interested in doing this to my '09 Sienna (LE w dual power sliders, no power lift). I am not really interested about the remote start feature. Could I still use the same hardware as Jerry and simply use it as a keyless entry unit? Or could you guys suggest a better unit/combo? TIA

Let me rephrase my last post... I am mainly interested in being able to open the power sliding doors via remote... with that being said is the equipment jerry used the best option for what I want to do? Do you guys have a better suggestion?

Your LE came with factory keyless that allowed the sliders to open on the remote. Why not simply go to Toyota and get a new remote programmed?

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

We bought it used approximately 6 months ago. When we purchased it the salesman said it would be around $800 to do that. If I purchased the remotes online and took them to the dealership would they reprogram the remotes, or is it something I could do? This would also be helpful since I currently only have one remote.