alarm/remote start wiring

I am currently working on a 1998 Grand Marquis. I got most of the wires hooked up for power and ignition. I also hooked up the door lock/unlock wires and the parking lights but I get nothing when arming the system.

I am pretty positive I have the right wires. I have the lock going to a pink / YELLOW wire in the driver door kick panel and the unlock going to a pink/lt. green wire in the same location. However, when I hit the arm button nothing happens with the locks. It does have the keypad on the door as well.

I have a few sites that have wiring diagrams for this car but they seem to contradict each other in some areas. For example, 12volt says the factory disarm wire is GREEN/ purple but no other diagram that I find mentions this wire. The alarm I have has a wire that can be run to a factory alarm wire to disarm it so I wanted to double check with others to see if this is correct.

Thanks!

Quote-"You're pretty positive".Quote

How pretty? DMM testing pretty? Or connecting straight from a diagram pretty?

Well as far as the constant power, accessory off the main power harness I DMM tested because multiple wiring diagrams showed different wires.

On the door locks and parking lights I went by the wiring diagram given here and in another post. Haven't really had any problems yet using diagrams but might not be working as well on this install.

Well the person I am installing this for bought the car a few months ago and the person did not include the fob with it. After some research I found where it is considered keyless entry because it has the keypad on the door. I tested the locks and I get power to the lock wire of the system from the pink / YELLOW wire in the kick panel and no power when hitting unlock. Then it just the reverse when I hit unlock for the other wire.

So the parking light circuit is in the kick panel? It showed it was going to the LCM under the dash.

Thanks!

When I test from the brown (+) wire at the LCM it shows no power without the parking lights on, then there is power once I turn the parking lights on.

t&t tech wrote:

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The you have to five wire that setup! Those are the actuator wires you have!

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oh really, I hate how many different wiring diagrams there are on the net. There is another one that said this about the setup:

NOTE *2 If vehicle is equipped with a FACTORY KEYLESS ENTRY System, then the vehicle has a Negative (-) Door Locking System, vehicles without FACTORY KEYLESS ENTRY, have a 5 Wire Reverse Polarity Door Locking System. Vehicles with the KEY PAD on the Door are considered to have KEYLESS ENTRY.

Not saying they are right because apparantly they may not be since the locks are not working.

The diagram on this site says it's brown!

I can't say for certain if that is the case with the locks! Maybe someone else can chime in! Cheers!

tommy... wrote:

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Are the wires pretty thin...? How are you testing these wires...Test lead to what and what...? Also you should hear the brain clicking...Check the output on the system itself...

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Yeah, the lock/unlock wires are pretty think that are in the kickpanel. I am testing between the connection I have to the lock wire down to the plug that plugs into the brain. When you push the lock/unlock button on the transmitter the brain does click.

Disconnect from car and check output on the brain...Then take black lead to ground...red lead to door locks in car...Press and hold lock on switch...Should read 12 volts...Do the same with the other suspected wire...If i remember there are other similar color wires...! It says parking lights are in a black plug in the DKP...!

tommy... wrote:

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Disconnect from car and check output on the brain...Then take black lead to ground...red lead to door locks in car...Press and hold lock on switch...Should read 12 volts...Do the same with the other suspected wire...If i remember there are other similar color wires...! It says parking lights are in a black plug in the DKP...!

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Thanks. I did get the issue resolved for the parking lights. They now flash when arming or disarming the system. I will check the output on the brain as well. On the door lock volts I believe I did that already unless I am not understanding what you mean. I checked from each wire that I believe was the lock and unlock wire based on the diagram. They both get 12 volts when pushed but no volts when the opposite is pushed.

Thanks

oh ok, yeah I tested the connection off the brain and when I hit either lock or unlock it get just a small bit of power reading. (Digital MM died on me so having to use an needle style meter). The needle goes up but not much at all.

I know that isn't a great bit of info but just hard to read this other mm.

Thanks!

I am installing a remote starter in a 08 Toyota Yaris and everything is working great except the airbag light will not go off when I start with the remote starter.  It does however go out when I use the key.  Has anyone every encountered this and if so I do I fix it.  Thanks Chet

Here is what I have on the door locks now.

On the plug for the switch I have a pink / YELLOW wire that show power only when pushed to lock. A pink/lt green wire that has power only when pushed to unlock. Then I have a black wire for ground, a GREEN/ YELLOW wire that has constant power along with the illumination wire(which most say don't count).

So from what the information states here this would be a positive lock system?

Thanks!

Well, it could be the 5 wire as you stated before and the previous wiring information I found could be wrong.

The 5 wire does not mean there are exactly 5 wires but that there could be 4 or 6 wires instead of 5. Well not counting the illumination I have 4 wires then. One constant power, one ground, lock wire and unlock wire. 

Thanks!