2008 lexus is350 possibly push to start

2008 Lexus IS350 - I'll be attempting it Thursday. Allegedly it's got a conventional key, but I didn't actually ask the customer myself(the garage owner talked to him), so I'm proceeding with the assumption that it could be either a conventional or a proximity key.

Remote starter is going to be probably an Avital 4103, and the bypass is going to be an XK05 with the 5.PKTI firmware. My questions:

For the case that this car has a conventional key - can anyone confirm that the wire colors in thisthread are correct? If not, do you have better info or am I just going to have to test them all to figure it out?

If it's a Push-To-Start - ideally, does anyone have a diagram for this vehicle, or push-to-start Toyotas in general you can link or upload?

Barring that, will the following setup work with this vehicle or am I missing something:

• Ground-when-running to the bypass, which connects its TX and RX at the start switch, pins 9 and 10 respectively.
• (+) starter output to the brake wire at the brake pedal switch
• (-) starter output, through a diode, cathode side facing the remote starter, to pin 7 at the start switch
• (+) Ignition to the appropriate wire at the brake or the power module, with diodes facing so it only acts as an input to the remote starter
• Brake input to the remote start interrupted by a relay when the Starter output is active?

FWIW, Adam at Directed Canada's tech support specifically told me that this bypass would work on a push-to-start, and said that I should get a diagram from my usual source(Audiovox). Unfortunately they don't specifically have one.

Thanks in advance folks!

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Ken From: KDA Services

Just did two push to start Lexus ES 350's

Both are 2007's and both work great but there are  some side effects to it

If you are interested in more info you can email me at mustyk@att.net for diagrams and more info

they are quite complex and keep in mind you must apply brake to start , NOT press brake to stop as conventional starters work!!

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thetopinstaller

Thanks, Ken. I've e-mailed you.

Also thanks to Howie and Metz35 for their responses separately.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Also, metz35, looks like your PM box is full?

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

shouldnt be ill delete some messages. all clear if you want me to do that for you

Something you should watch out for is if the date of manufacture is August of 2008 or above the car will have 80 bit encryption from the button to the ecm. If this is the case then the rx/tx wiring will not work. Hope this helps.

wouldnt august of 08 make it an 2009?

The XK05 is ridiculous. Running wires behind the fuse box and glove box and all sorts of stuff.

The idatalink pieces are a great improvement, with much cleaner and simpler wiring.

The Fortin KEY-OVERRIDE-ALL installs in a similar fashion to the idatalink stuff, but has a relay built in, saving time and making the install come out even nicer.

Regardless of which of the above three products you use, go directly to the manufacturer's website and get the install guide that's specifically for push-to-start Toyotas.

Any wiring sheet from Audiovox or DEI or wherever will list some of the wire colors for you, but will NOT tell you how to install in a push-to-start car, especially if you haven't done one before.

Definitely go by the appropriate guide from the manufacturer's site.

XK05: www.xpressdownload.com

ADS: www.idatalink.com

Fortin: www.ifar.ca

OK, thanks again for posting folks. An update with what I've got so far:

metz35, beegbie - it looks like indeed that August '08 and up would be '09 models. The firmware and install wiring is different for those, although the XK05 is supposed to work on them as well. Wiring supplement for the '09 IS250/IS350 is available here.

Chris Luongo - believe it or not, the XK05 doesn't appear too bad on push-to-start Toyotas, at least when they supply a wiring supplement for it. No wires on the passenger side like you'd have on a conventional key vehicle.

Also, Directed has a (I'm assuming) new firmware which is supposed to work this car and a bunch of other Ford/Mazda/Toyota products, the PKTI. Doesn't require wires to the ECM even on conventional keys, just the TX and RX at the immobilizer receiver. It's apparently even so new that they forgot to include a wiring diagram for push-to-start Toyotas, though they do have a programming procedure. Their tech guy today stated that RX goes to pin 10 at the start button, TX to pin 9, and the only other connections are GWR, ground, and 12v constant.

For the connections from the remote starter - Ken(mustyk@att.net) above has sent a helpful hand sketch for this entire install using the XK05. I'll leave it up to him if he wants to upload that.

Last, Directed's tech instructions for the Prius look like they'll work, though the wire colors obviously aren't the same on an IS350.

That's all for now - I'll give a further update on Thursday when I actually see the car.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

That's something I keep trying to drum into these amateurs; if you haven't done it before get all the tech info you can!

I used the XK-05  (IM-05) and I did not have to go to the passenger side at all. All my connections were made at or near the start button and/or drvr side fusebox. Your TX and RX lines are at the push to start switch too!

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thetopinstaller

OK, job's done. Apparently the customer needs a refresher course on the Latin alphabet, because this turned out to be an RX350 with a conventional key. It was a 2008 though.

For what it's worth I did get some video, and also tested the new firmware for the XK05 (PKTI firmware). Worked as it was supposed to and as I think I mentioned earlier it connects to the RX and TX at the immobilizer ring, not the stupid IMO/IMI at the ECM.

Thanks again to everyone who helped here - you guys are awesome contributors all!

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Fine, job done and aren't they a doddle physically? My big question? Did you go directly to the lock wires in the driver's door to give you lock and comfort close or did you have to use the isolating relay and diodes?

Actually wasn't so bad. Ended up going to the door module for lock/unlock, just the straight (-) trigger from the key cylinder. About as easy as running wires into a door gets - 2 molex plugs with all the door wires are easily accessible in the DKP junction block, and can be easily disconnected and the boot pulled out.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

So was I right about not needing the relay and diodes for the locks?

Absolutely right, Howie. Didn't need a single additional relay for anything!

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two