08 accord coupe locks

has anyone been able to find the unlock, lock and disarm wires in the kick panel ? i know i can go into the door and pick these up, but just want to save time. I already have a compustar pro on my own 09 accord, but i used a CAN module. Im helping out a friend do hers. Go everything mostly wired besides, locks/disarm. I use fortins wiring guide and they say it can be found at the DKP in a white plug. I tested EVERY wire the white plug without a go. Any suggestions? Howie, any ideas? ahah thanks for input !

hey jeff, i managed to find the white plug with the wires they are talking about. however when i test them, it functions as the door lock should with the key in the cylinder, but when i send the pulse to it, it doesnt do anything. when i test the lines, they rest at ground, and when lock or unlock is done with the key, it goes to zero, then back up. So to verify, i tested the line for a switched 12v, which was the reading i got. Sent 12v via a fused 1amp line to test, fuse didnt blow, but doors didnt lock either.

el rancho, i know that data modules can do the door lock for me. Im using one on my own car,however im trying to help a friend with an 08 coupe. I wired up mostly everything but door locks. trying to save her some money.

tedmond wrote:

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has anyone been able to find the unlock, lock and disarm wires in the kick panel ? i know i can go into the door and pick these up, but just want to save time. I already have a compustar pro on my own 09 accord, but i used a CAN module. Im helping out a friend do hers. Go everything mostly wired besides, locks/disarm. I use fortins wiring guide and they say it can be found at the DKP in a white plug. I tested EVERY wire the white plug without a go. Any suggestions? Howie, any ideas? ahah thanks for input !

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Hello! I'll be working in an 08 Accord myself. If you find anything please post, though I'm going to use idatalink module on this car. Kinda like the old fashioned way of install..

Thanks!!!

I believe your going to find that going into the door is your only option.

well looks like thats the only method after playing around. If you have the idatalink then your good to go since it controls everything via data.

I only managed to find a few useful wires.

**NOTE** use negative parking lights. if you use the positive parking lights in the fuse box RED (+) onlt th eleft side lights up. the negative trigger is at the headlight switch GREY.

driver unlock is YELLOW (REV) in DKP white connector going into door
driver lock is ORANGE (REV) in DKP white connector going into door
Rear defrost is BROWN (-) Fuse box green connector
Trunk release ORANGE (+) Fuse box geen conector
All Door trigger PINK (-) fuse box white connector

found all of these as i poked around. i used a fortin CANSL2 and installation was quick, but then aagin im helping a friend, and letting her save money so im willing to do it the hard way and go into doors ahah. Going ito the doors was atually easy. Do what i did, i ended up running wires into the doors anyways, since i will use my aux channels to roll up/roll down the windows by using at latched (-) trigger. the lock, unlock, and disarm can be found in a white plug on your far left hand side. Dont bother use the one at the main control switch, its crammed and hard to get at the wires. Also, test with the key in the door, not the switches. i took a whole photo shoot of my install, so if you need anything ill try to forward the pics or post them. good luck!

tedmond wrote:

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well looks like thats the only method after playing around. If you have the idatalink then your good to go since it controls everything via data.

I only managed to find a few useful wires.

**NOTE** use negative parking lights. if you use the positive parking lights in the fuse box RED (+) onlt th eleft side lights up. the negative trigger is at the headlight switch GREY.

driver unlock is YELLOW (REV) in DKP white connector going into door
driver lock is ORANGE (REV) in DKP white connector going into door
Rear defrost is BROWN (-) Fuse box green connector
Trunk release ORANGE (+) Fuse box geen conector
All Door trigger PINK (-) fuse box white connector

found all of these as i poked around. i used a fortin CANSL2 and installation was quick, but then aagin im helping a friend, and letting her save money so im willing to do it the hard way and go into doors ahah. Going ito the doors was atually easy. Do what i did, i ended up running wires into the doors anyways, since i will use my aux channels to roll up/roll down the windows by using at latched (-) trigger. the lock, unlock, and disarm can be found in a white plug on your far left hand side. Dont bother use the one at the main control switch, its crammed and hard to get at the wires. Also, test with the key in the door, not the switches. i took a whole photo shoot of my install, so if you need anything ill try to forward the pics or post them. good luck!

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ted,T

hanks for the heads up. you can do either way about the pics. I've never done the windows feature. I hope you don't mind sharing it too.

Thanks a lot!

I just was working on a 09 accord and when i went into the door to look for the lock wires i could not find the exact location of the wires to the plug like the dei tech sheet says. arm is orange pin 28 and disarm is brown and white pins 29+31. it looks like there is no wire installed in locaton 28 and pins 29+31 don't  have those colors. Any ideas?  i'm going to test them in the morning with the key in the door. Just wanted to know if they might have changed something on the 09 accord.

el ranchero wrote:

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best is to go inside the door, i remember old school used to be so simple

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That's right but technology change and imagine the new bypass module takes care most of everything. It's one of the reason why we got so lazy nowadays.

Hard wired still rules buddy!

hey thorner, when you have your door panel open, dont bother tapping into the wires at the huge grey plug. its just crammed as hell and stripping the wires is a pain. Insted, witht he entire door panel off, look towards your left hand side, you will see a WHITE plug with maybe 6 wires or so going into it. The bottom 3 are what you want. its in the order of WHITE, BROWN, ORANGE. just follow the harness from the master switch to the left side and you CANT miss it. These 3 wires are very thin (20 gauge or so)

Test with door open and key in the door cylinder. make sure u diode isolate the white and brown wires. From testing, the WHITE goes to constant ground when unlocked. BROWN is disarm with a single pulse, and with a double pulse it unlocks. ORANGE is just lock/arm

ruki101,

the accords have the window roll down feature when unlock is pressed once with the factory fob, then held. So i fyou can duplicate that sequence from the rs start, you are able to roll down/up the windows.

Run 3 wires to the door for LOCK, UNLOCK/DISARM

ORANGE - lock
BROWN - disarm(single pulse) unlock(double pulse)
White - diode isolate and double pulse at same time as brown for unlock.

with a neg aux channel, diode isolate that as well with the silver band on diode towards the alarm. connect this to the BROWN and set it for LATCHED or for as long as the button is held down. So this feature will work when you use your new remotes, UNLOCK, then hold AUX and the windows roll down. Same concept for window rollup. Use a secondary aux channel and diode isolate with the lock and program for latched as button is held. So to rollup you would lock, hold aux2 and windows roll up. Hope i didnt confuse you. If i did i will try my best to make it more simple.

tedmond wrote:

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ruki101,

the accords have the window roll down feature when unlock is pressed once with the factory fob, then held. So i fyou can duplicate that sequence from the rs start, you are able to roll down/up the windows.

Run 3 wires to the door for LOCK, UNLOCK/DISARM

ORANGE - lock
BROWN - disarm(single pulse) unlock(double pulse)
White - diode isolate and double pulse at same time as brown for unlock.

with a neg aux channel, diode isolate that as well with the silver band on diode towards the alarm. connect this to the BROWN and set it for LATCHED or for as long as the button is held down. So this feature will work when you use your new remotes, UNLOCK, then hold AUX and the windows roll down. Same concept for window rollup. Use a secondary aux channel and diode isolate with the lock and program for latched as button is held. So to rollup you would lock, hold aux2 and windows roll up. Hope i didnt confuse you. If i did i will try my best to make it more simple.

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@tedmond,

Clear and copy. If you can share some photos on your install would be great too, thanks...

with my own install, i used a canbus so most of not everything was done via data. It wont be much pictures regarding plugs, but i have just pics of how i completed the install from start to finish. I will pop off my door panels again to take a picture of the plug and its wires. I also wired up a rs for my girlfriends 2dr coupe. I didnt take pics from her install since she wanted the car back asap, but i did do everything old school without CANbus and it took alot longer than i expected. After all i had the works done on that. Everything from window roll down/up, defrost for rear and mirrors, driver priority unlock, trunk, dome light supervision, etc.

to thorner and ruki,

i posted them in my other thread.

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~118776~PN~0~TPN~2 so there are the pics of locks/disarm if you need them. good luck!

old thread, but ill revive it. I manged to find the door locks/disarm INSIDE THE CAR !!!.

so after doing some tracing, if you look high up in the dash, there are 4 plugs with dead end connectors. One blue, one white, and two gey plugs. In the white plug, the disarm, lock and unlock are there. I will post a picture of the plug and its pinout when i get a chance to stick my head back underneath.

i cant image how much time i would have saved if i found them ahah