2000 buick century remote start

2000 Buick Century
Avital 4103 RS/Keyless Entry
DLPKGM Bypass Kit

Had some questions regarding rear defrost and factory alarm disarm. Wondering if factory disarm needs to be used and if a relay is actually necessary or if I can interface directly to the 4103. Also anything to watch out for when looking for the rear defrost wire, haven't done one of those yet. I was only given the make and model of the car since it is a surprise Christmas gift so I am unsure if the vehicle has a factory alarm or not.

Any past experiences or pointers would be great. Trying to get my research out of the way ahead of time.

Thanks

To see if the vehicle has a factory alarm, press the lock button on the door switch and shut the door. Wait 30 sec, and remote start the vehicle and see if the horn goes off. Do the same thing and try unlocking the doors via remote starter transmitter. If the horn does not go off with either scenario, you dont need to do the alarm disarm.

I've never seen a Century with a factory alarm.

They do all have VATS, the resistor pellet in the key. The install guide should show you how to do the bypass with a relay and resistor if you don't want to use that module....and I've never used that module before, so do be sure that it does VATS.

Your main ignition wires, as well as the brake wire, are running up the steering column.

The BCM under the dash, to the left of the brake pedal, has all the wires facing down. There you should have your doorlocks, MAYBE the trunk wire (I forget), and a (gray/black I think?) negative parking light wire.

If I remember correctly, the ONLY way to test the negative parking light wire is by testing the wire while operating the factory remote. If you don't have the factory remote, forget the negative wire and get positive lights at the parking light switch.

I've installed a few 4103s, and the default "virtual tach" setting works very well. You shouldn't need to connect to the car's tachometer wire.

How about D2D on these two modules? I have read a lot of comments that it just doesn't work, or is intermittent. Any comments regarding using D2D or just go ahead and connect the rest of the wires while I'm bench prepping the unit?

Thanks For the Info

Update:

I got the unit bench prepped for D2D and installed it all Saturday. Chris you were right, parking lights are gray/black Conn.3 @ BCM, trunk was Brown conn.3 @ BCM and door locks are at conn.2 @ BCM I also found rear defrost at the control head center connector, white wire. This goes to the relay so you need a latched output.

Ran into some issues with the DLPKGM, it would not program completely. Light would go solid, then Flash but after I started the car, it would not stop flashing to state "unit programmed" I read 3 different programming methods, both generic and vehicle specific. I read how you need to enable D2D mode during programming by pressing lock on the RS/Alarm unit but I could never get the programming light to stop flashing. I could not get VATS programmed let alone any of the other features to work, (door locks / trunk). Towards the end of the night I cut the serial connection lines on the D2D wire to see if it would learn in analog mode and it still wouldn't exit programming. I wasn't sure what else it would need to learn VATS at the minimum besides +12v, IGN, Data (Class2), and GND. I was also unsure how to reset/reprogram this other then starting the program procedure over again. Last install I did with a PKFM it had a reset procedure to clear it out to start over.

I found in the 4103 manual something regarding how to power the unit up if you hook a bitwriter up to the D2D port, and that you need D2D plugged in before plugging the 6-Pin relay harness to re-connect to a XK D2D compatible module. But the programming instructions for the DLPKGM state how you hold the button before powering up, so I'm not sure if I need 4 hands to do this all at once or what will actually work. Plan now is to just hard wire the Door locks and trunk and install a VATS-Bypass relay. What is the tolerance for the VATS Resistance? 10% from actual sufficient?

Unless somebody knows what I'm doing wrong here. Run a separate +12v and GND to the DLPKGM maybe? Plan is to verify the bypass actually works and then save it for a later install otherwise its going in the garbage. I didn't realize this car was so easy and could of just skipped the bypass all together.

Thanks

Update:
Install was finished today. Made a VATS bypass relay and wired the door locks and trunk at the BCM. Virtual tach worked great too on this unit. Only thing I didn't care for was how long you need to hold the trunk button down to get the trunk to pop.

Thanks Again