1983 avanti
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=118849
Printed Date: May 07, 2025 at 9:30 AM
Topic: 1983 avanti
Posted By: gafco
Subject: 1983 avanti
Date Posted: December 27, 2009 at 7:07 AM
I am installing a alarm/remote start system on a 1983 Avanti.So far i haven't been able to locate a wiring diagram.Does anyone know of a source for one? thanks.
Replies:
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: December 27, 2009 at 9:24 AM
Sounds like a good job for a fluke meter to me. I can find no info for any Avanti vehicle.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: December 27, 2009 at 11:25 AM
What beauties they were.Does this vehicle even have fuel injection? How does it start on a cold winter morning because if the first answer is no and the second one is with pumping the accelerator and some difficulty, then forget it.
Having said that get round those two problems, a trunk or door actuator on the linkage may be and it has to be very easy. Wait that can't be the ORIGINAL Avanti can it?
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: December 27, 2009 at 1:52 PM
If your car starts without having to pump your accellerator, and you need some guidance using the meter to find your wires. You inspired this, maybe you can be the one it helps. https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=118854&KW=i+am+an+idiot#580732
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: December 27, 2009 at 1:58 PM
Howie, we have installed many remote starts on carbureted vehicles that would not start without pumping the throttle when the car is cold. We explain that it will not work and they all say yes it will. They say that they do not want it to start up to warm the car in the moring. They just want it for the bling factor. They all say when it is warmed up it starts fine without pumping the throttle. If I had one the only reason to have one would be to warm/cool the car before getting into it. I guess that I am just an idiot.
Posted By: gafco
Date Posted: December 27, 2009 at 6:52 PM
Yes it has fuel injection.the old carb 305 has been replaced with a vette lt1 and a 6 spd.
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: December 27, 2009 at 7:49 PM
What year car did the new powerplant come out of?
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: December 28, 2009 at 3:32 AM
Yes my car apart they ALL have it for the bling factor When I start installing on small car based service vans then I'll know it's a legitimate product.
I think I know where we are going with your last post. I remember the early injected engines on Fords and Peugeots where you STILL had to pump the throttle.
Posted By: gafco
Date Posted: December 28, 2009 at 6:20 AM
The engine is a 96.
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: December 28, 2009 at 7:45 AM
I was hoping that Audiovox had useable info for tach. They give the location as above battery. Probably not going to help in your case. You may want to look into an injector wire as a source. If the motor has multiple injectors, there wil be a common colored wire on each injector. Then there should be a second wire on each injector, use one of the non-common wires for tach.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: December 28, 2009 at 9:47 AM
Does this vehicle have a separate coil?
Also go to the ignition switch. With a DMM
1 or 2 wires will be constant 12volt+.
1or 2 will be 12v+ on accessory.
1or 2 will be 12v+ on ignition.
1or 2 will be 12v+ on starter.
TEST and let us know.
Does the vehicle have power locks.
I'm assuming contacts to bring on the door and trunk lights.
See if with either the driver or passenger contacts they both control the dome light.
I think we can forget dioding etc on a vehicle of this age.
Posted By: lspker
Date Posted: December 28, 2009 at 10:59 PM
I might be getting old, but wasn't that car built on a GM chassis and running gear? If it was should follow GM wiring for doner car
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: December 29, 2009 at 5:58 AM
I'm sure the original came out in either the late 60s or early 70s and was a Studebaker, whatever that was. I can remember the Edsel as a child but as I was 11 years old, I never got the hidden meaning in the grill!
Posted By: gafco
Date Posted: December 29, 2009 at 8:06 AM
i'll check the GM diagram maybe a corvette,as both are fiberglass bodied. thanks
Posted By: gafco
Date Posted: September 05, 2010 at 8:44 AM
My issue for now is with the power door locks.I think the switch that i have now is not the correct one and i think I may need to install 1 or more relays to control these with my new alarm.
This is the wiring diagram now. The switch installed is SPDT.3 terminal center off.The connector is 4 wire 2 at the top 2 in center.I have checked the door motors and they do work.Apply + to one wire and - to the other to lock.Reverse that and uunlock.
So the Questions are.What kind of switch do i need and to hook up the alarm do i need 1 or more relays?Also the alarm wire output is 12v -.
Thanks for the help.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: September 05, 2010 at 9:03 AM
The switch you have now will work with the following set up:-
Feed the switch centre contact (common) from ground, then 1st. output, join to alarm lock wire, then to relay 85. relay 86 and 87, feed from 15 amp fused 12v+ constant share this with other relay.
30 to lock side motor wire.
2nd. output from switch, join to alarm's unlock wire then to 85 on second relay.
86 and 87 as above.
30 to unlock side motor wire.
87a on both relays to ground.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: September 05, 2010 at 9:19 AM
OK, assuming the switch you have has a momentary action, it's quite correct wired thus (discard the above diagramme):-
Common from your switch to ground*
Relay 1)
Join lock output to one of the terminals of the switch then to 85.
86 and 87 constant 12v+, 15amp fused share both relays.
87a, both relays to ground*.
30 to lock side actuator (or solenoid both the same) motor wire.
Relay 2)
Join unlock output from your alarm to the other terminal of your switch, join both to 85.
30 to unlock side actuator motor wire.
86, 87 and87a as above.
*Run a voltage test from your battery + terminal to your selected ground point, if it's less than 12.1 volts, take all your grounds to the battery neg terminal.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: gafco
Date Posted: September 05, 2010 at 9:56 AM
The switch is not a momentary.Just an on off.
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: September 05, 2010 at 10:25 AM
I have not read all of the recent activity about your situation, but from what I am gathering from Howie's last post, you really need to get a Single pole Double Throw Momentary switch. It will have a center off position and flipping the switch one way will lock the doors and flipping it the other direction will unlock the doors.
Or you could use 2 separate switches, but they would need to be momentary as well. One switch for lock and the other for unlock. They must be momentary.
Posted By: gafco
Date Posted: September 05, 2010 at 10:30 AM
Thanks.That's what i thought,but since it was already installed iI thought i might be missing something.I am not sure if they worked that way as i never tried them.I'll look for a different switch.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: September 05, 2010 at 11:32 AM
Then the switch you have is actually a SPCO single pole change-over as used by Jaguar many years ago for the left/right fuel tanks or Rolls Royce, Ferrari etc. for air horns/normal horns. Or even hi-lo headlight beams. In other words it stays in 1 of it's two outputs constantly.
You don't even need this switch. Just use the relays and programme your alarm/RS to ign. on auto lock/unlock.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
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