Printer Friendly Forum Posts - clifford 50.7x wiring, 99 chevy 3500

I am looking for some ideas and advice on installing a clifford 50.7x alarm system on my 1999 Chevy 3500 crew cab. I have been customizing this truck all year and I am now at the point where I am going to start putting the stuff on it that people would want to steal. So now is the time to put on the alarm.

I would like some advice on sensors that will protect my wheels, audio & video and of course the vehicle. Tilt sensor DEI 507m? I have heard some vague conflicting stories. People seem to love em or hate em. It sounds to me that the installation makes or breaks this sensor. Audio sensor DEI 506t for glass break? I am also considering the battery backup DEI 520t as sometimes this vehicle sits for short periods without being driven and this would keep the alarm system active if the car battery goes dead? A battery backup siren? Since this truck is so long I am also considering putting a second impact sensor at the rear of the vehicle behind the tail light to pick up anything out back and under the hard cover. I also want to put window up/down. In the summer with four windows it seems it would be easier to just get out and push one button that rolls up the windows and locks the doors.

Do I have it right? Am I missing something or is it overkill? How would you set it up?

Thanks

Rod

Do I have it right? Am I missing something or is it overkill? How would you set it up?

Thanks

Rod

You're correct about the motion sensor! Installatiom makes or breaks it, second impact sensor is not a bad idea, Back up battery is great also, but see if you can locate a small 12volt battery that can discharge at a rate of about ten amps per hour or so! Dei's battery really isn't alot to talk about! The home alarm companies use them, it's where i purchase mines!

Never used the back up battery siren from dei, can't help you there! Window roll, Dei's 530t is the best way to go, that module is excellent, plus, if your installer goes to each motor, you can have express up and down at driver and passenger controls!

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

I am getting ready to do a first time installl of an alrm/remote start system. I have a couple of questions I would appreciate some imput on before I dive into the installation so I don't blow it up.

There seem to be 4 seperate 12V(+) constant wires. 1-Red on alarm side and 1-RED / White, 1-Red and 1-RED / Black on the Remote start side.

1) Do these all need to be connected to a 12V(+) power source for every installation for the system to work properly or are some of these for optional accessories?

2) Where is the best and easiest place to connect them. The battery, ingnition source or some other location?

3) Can I connect them all together at the the same 12V(+) source with one in line 15A fuse or should I connect them in seperate location with each having it's own in line 15A fuse?

Thank you for any help.

The answers:-
1) Yes
2) Depends on the vehicle (try telling us what it is)battery is best
3) Separate fuses are a MUST

for the 4 12 volt wires

1) tell us what kind of car you are working on and then we can tell you what 12 volt wires you need

2) again, depending on the car, some cars you can connect to the ignition harness for 12 volys, some you need to go to the battery

3) don't connect them together

05gt]] wrote:

) don't connect them together

If they're all separately fused, why not?

Just asking, don't go postal on me.

Sorry, I have a 1999 Chevy CK truck crew cab long bed.

So should I connect them to seperate locations and use an in line fuse within 12 inches of where I tap into anlong with the in line fuse that comes with the gear?

I was far from going postal, all I said was don't connect them together, it wasn't meant to be offensive

sure all seperately fused is fine, but with the three wires on the same solder joint I wouldn't do it, I am not counting the small gauge 12 volt wire because it hardly draws anything

If I remember right you have a red and a RED / white at the ignition switch, connect 2 of your 12 volt wires on seperate solder joints to one of these wires and the other 2 12 volt wires to the other one

these 12 volt wires at the ignition switch are more than enough to handle what you are doing

These wires are only drawing power when the alarm is activated or running an accessory such as a window module or something and on the remote start when cranking the engine. Otherwise they have no power draw while the truck is running. Is this correct?

Okay. So on the remote start heavy gauge wiring I have,

Alarm/RS = Vehicle

Pink Ignition 1 output (also ignition sense input) = Pink(+) Ignition one

RED / White 12v(+) constant fused 30a input (contact 87 of RS Flex Relay) = battery(+)

Orange accessary = I am not sure what to do with this wire since I don't have climate control. Or, do they mean any heating or AC controls. Should I hook it up to the orange wire that feeds my heating and AC controls?

Violet starter = Yellow(+) starter output side

Green starter = Yellow(+) starter input side

Red 12v(+) constant fused 30a input (for ignition1 relay) = Battery(+)

Pink/White Flex Relay output (defalut is ignition2) = White(+) ignition 2

Pink/Black Flex Relay contact 87a (default is ignition2) = What would this be used for and connected to what?

RED / Black 12v(+) constant fused 30a input (for accessory and starter relays) = Battery(+)

For RS inputs,

BLACK/ White neautral safety(-) input = Ground since I have an automatic

Violet/White tach input = White tach wire at ECM

Brown brake shut down(+) input = White(+) at brake pedal

Gray(-) input = Hood pin switch

Blue/White 2nd remote status(-) 200ma output Defogger (programmable) = I would like to hook this up to my rear window/mirror defogger but I am at a loss on how to wire it up. I do know that the wiring is a 10 gauge purple wire.

RS Outputs,

Blue RS status(-) 200mA output = What?

Pink RS ignition1(-) 200mA output = What?

Violet RS starter(-) 200mA outpu = What?

Orange RS accessory(-) 200mA output = What?

Pink/White flex(-) 200mA output (default setting is ignition2) = What?

Thank you for your time and help I appreciate it.

Anyone...I know there has to be someone on here that can answer my questions.

Orange Acc to your vehicle's accessory wire at the ignition, i.e. the wire that reads 12 volts+ when you turn the key to the first position, stays live when you turn the key to ign. and dumps on cranking the engine then restores 12v+ on engine run.
Pink/black, for a second starter or accessory.
Take the BLACK/ white NSS to the reversing light feed, it's then a safety feature other wise you're not using it properly.
Brown brake shut down wire goes to the side that reads 12v+ when brake pedal is depressed.
Blue/white. Turn on your engine, set the heater blower, AC and hot window controls to on, then turn off engine. If you turn on engine again and everything stays as it was, you don't need it. Otherwise, check that purple wire, see if it goes to 12v+ when you turn on the hot window, run the blue/white to a relay 85, 12v+ constant at 25amps fused, join to 86 and 87, join 30 to the purple wire. Or find the hort window factory relay or the switch output, see if it's a neg or pos on switching on and let me know.
The blue goes to your by-pass and or key sense if required, ignore the rest.
The reason know one else has answered is all of this info is in the install manual! RTFM!!

Thanks Howie for the input. I did read the manual but this is my first attempt and I want to make sure I get it right the first time with out hurting any of the gear or my truck. The manual is pretty vague which is why I am here asking the guys who know the answers to my questions. This is the right place to do that isn't it?

The orange wire simply says "connect to accessory wire that powers climate control". I got the impression from the manual this wire powers automatic climate control systems. I do not have automatic climate controls only manual heating/air conditioning. I didn't know if I would still use this wire to power my manual heating/AC controls or simply not use it at all. It sounds like your suggesting to hook it up to the entire vehicle accessory rather than just the heater/air conditioner controls.

Great idea for the NSS wire!! This is why I am asking questions the manual does not suggest doing that and I would never have thought of it.

The defogger switch, the purple wire is the output wire and I believe it is a positive output. The Input wire to the defogger switch is an orange wire that comes from a fused 30 amp 12v+ source. They both connect to a time delay relay behind the defogger switch. The purple wire also activates a relay for my heated mirrors.

As for the other wires I knew I didn't need them I was just curious on what they might be used for. Like what kind of accessories could you run off them.

Thank you for your help.

I am a little confused on the light flash connections for the Clifford 50.7x. I am installing in a 1999 Chevy 3500 crew cab. The H1/4 WHITE/ Brown wire light flash - isolation wire. There is also the H1/11 white parking light output. Are these two different ways of doing the same thing? Which should I use for this setup?

Since I am here I actually have a couple of other questions.

1 - Bypass module - Can anyone recommend a good bypass module to use with this setup. I have passlock 2 system with factory keyless entry. I can't make heads or tales out of the ones I have researched.

2 - H1/10 WHITE/ blue remote start/turbo timer activation input. Am I right that I don't need to do anything with this wire. Am I correct that you would use this for a push button start and stop?

3 - H1/9 BLACK/ white dome light supervision - I have factory keyless entry so the dome light already comes on when the locks are remote activated so would there be any other reason to connect this wire?

4 - Hood pin switch - I don't have any good places to mount a hood pin. Would connecting to the factory under hood light work since it turns off and on when you open the hood?

5 - H2 light blue 2nd Unlock - Since I have factory keyless entry system is there a way to tap into that and operate progressive locking rather than wiring up a chain of relays?

Rod

I am a little confused on the light flash connections for the Cliford 50.7x. I am installing in a 1998 Chevy 3500 crew cab. The H1/4 WHITE/ Brown wire light flash - isolation wire. There is also the H1/11 white parking light output. Are these two different ways of doing the same thing? Which should I use for this setup?

Since I am here I actually have a couple of other questions.

2 - H1/10 WHITE/ blue remote start/turbo timer activation input. Am I right that I don't need to do anything with this wire. Am I correct that you would use this for a push button start and stop?

4 - Hood pin switch - I don't have any good places to mount a hood pin. Would connecting to the factory under hood light work since it turns off and on when you open the hood?

5 - H2 light blue 2nd Unlock - Since I have factory keyless entry system is there a way to tap into that and operate progressive locking rather than wiring up a chain of relays?

1. DEI 555L or Audiovox AS-GM4 are classics that work well. Trilogix PLJX, I've used a few with good results.

You might find some more expensive modules that control doorlocks, factory alarm, and so forth...however, on a truck from your year they'll do Passlock bypass only---there would be no benefit for you to spend extra money on these modules.

2. Absolutely correct.

3. The factory keyless does turn on the domelight when unlocking, but the aftermarket system won't, because it's only going to be triggering the same wires that go to the doorlock switches on the door panel. However, I think you still have a factory domelight delay.

Try this: Sit inside truck, and if domelight is on, sit still and let it time out. Now, hit the unlock button on the door panel, open the door, then close it.....that's what you're going to end up with when you're install's done.

Using the BLACK/ white from the alarm gives you the following: 1. Turns domelight on at unlock, even when remote start is running. (Factory domelight delay generally doesn't happen with engine running.) 2. Pulses domelight on and off when alarm is triggered. 3. Turns on domelight when you park and shut the ignition off, so you can find your personal items before exiting the car. (#3 can be turned off in programming if you don't like it.)

4. I did that once in a '99-up style GM truck and it worked well, although it was a little time consuming---I think I had to open up the light and solder onto the terminal going to the bulb.

5. You could try to get a factory wiring diagram for the factory keyless entry system and see, but I'm almost sure that the driver's-priority unlocking is all solid-state inside the keyless entry unit...if you want this feature you'll need to wire in a relay as described in the install guide.

And as far as the parking lights, you don't need the WHITE/ brown "87a" wire for your application. Just connect the white positive parking light output directly to the (should be brown) parking light wire inside the truck.

I am in the middle of a alarm/remote start (Clif. 50.7x) installation on a 99 gm crew cab. I kept getting a door open on the remote. So I did some troubleshooting and I found that the dome override button or something in that system is not working properly. When the button is out it is suppose to turn the dome lights on and off when you open a door. However this one if the button is out the front dome light and courtesy lights stay on doors closed or not and the back one dose not light at all. The back domelight also dose something weird which is if you turn on a map light it lights dimly and also dimly lights up the domelight. (the dome light and map lights are housed in one unit) My question to the pros on this website is...do you think the problem is the light switch, dome light unit or in the wiring possibly between the front and rear domelight unit. I thought maybe someone may have had or heard of this problem and could help save me some time trying to track down the problem by giving me a starting point. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Was this problem present before the alarm install? Did you try getting the door trigger at the door pins?

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Try disconnecting the door trigger/dome light supervision wires and see if you still have the problem. It is always best to eliminate the most recent change to the circuit. If not, then you will just have to start testing till you find the problem.

When I wasn't getting anything at the light switch I did try the door pin and same thing I got an open door signal on the remote.

The back dome light has never worked since I bought the truck but I thought it was a burnt out bulb since the front dome light worked perfectly and I just never got around to checking it. I never noticed wether the dome light worked on opening the door because it has keyless/courtesy entry. When you use the keyless remote it turns on the dome light until you start the vehicle. The way the back dome light is acting makes me think there is a bad ground or short to that unit, but I don't think it would effect the door pins as well which is why I thought it might be the light switch itself.

Since the lights don't work properly with the doors I would have to speculate there is a grounding issue somewhere in the dome light wiring possibly the switch itself. Disconnect the alarm as Steve mentioned and see if you can find where it grounded out I would start with the door pins since they can become bent, or rusted and stay grounded keeping to dome light on and telling your alarm the door is still open. You could always re wire the system by running all new wires, this may be easier then tracing a short.

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Okay..I traced down the problem with the rear dome light and got it operating. It was a caroded plug connection. I cut all the wires and made new connections and it works perfectly now. The door pins however are still not operating properly and all those connections that I can see look fine, there is a tan wire going from the driver side pin that I can not see where it goes. I did try disconnecting the door trigger wire that was the first thing I tried. I think it might be the light switch. What would be the best way to test the light switch you think? There should be power going to one of the wires at the door pin so if I probe the door pin wires one should be hot and if I don't find any of them hot then I would think the switch is bad. Right?

Okay I am wrapping this alarm install up and have one last item to connect and that is the defogger output and I was hoping someone could give me a little help. I am attaching a schematic of my wiring layout. Does anyone have an idea on the best way to wire this up? It would be great to be able to wire this into the existing wiring without adding a relay but I don't think that is going to be the case. And, if I do need to add a relay how should I wire it up.

Thanks

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I used a 30amp relay and connected as you would converting a negative input into a positive output. I tapped the 12vdc constant going to the heating/ac controls with a 25amp inline fuse then to the relay and connected the output to the defogger wire. It works the way it should but the inline fuse and the relay heat up. The fuse heats up more than the relay. I am not comfortable with that so I was hoping someone might have an idea on a way to install without the wires getting hot. Should I remove the inline fuse between the power source and the relay and just use heavier wire and a 40amp relay? The defogger is a 30amp circuit using 14awg for power and the output wire looks slightly bigger. There is a ignition on power wire running to the heating/ac controls as well that is a smaller wire which I assume carries less current. What about using that for my power source rather than the constant on wire since the defogger will only be used when the vehicle is running. Also something that I thought is a little strange is when I activate the remote defogger the dash lights flash 2 or 3 times...is it suppose to do that? It works fine except for the getting hot problem.

Thank you for any suggetions and help.