viper 5901

So, I'm working on a 2009 Elantra and we are adding window automation. The driver window needs the ignition on for the trigger wires to work, the window module is attached to the motor so I'm not able (without some serious creativity that he isn't paying for) to get to the actual "motor" wires.

My question; Can I just take the relay trigger output from the 530t thats ground while active and connect it to the (-) output for adding an ignition 2 relay to trigger the vipers onboard ignition 2? I know before when they had the real relay pack and even the XCRS (or whatever it was called) you could just tap the ribbon harness and trigger away but is it the same thing with the low current outputs for adding relays?

Without me thinking too deeply, use a 7seconds timed aux output and one relay for each window.
Cut main IGN feed to each door
Aux to 85
Constant fused at 15 amps to 87 and 86
Car side to 87a
Window side to 30
If the triggers you mentioned are neg, use the same aux (with diodes to separate),also you can use the same relay with another aux to vent!
I've pulled this stunt off with a Mits. and it works!
P.S. You MAY only need the driver door relay!

Instead of using the aux wire, since you can only set it to 30 seconds for this model, use the arm wire and set the pulse length to 7 seconds. I think that is what howie meant when he said 7 seconds at first. This way it automatically goes up when you lock it.

NO! I mean't an aux output that you set to run timed for 7 seconds, being the max. time to close the windows on most cars.
I wouldn't change the lock time as this might affect the locks.
You could also use the orange armed output but then you'd need a 528t on the end of it.

Thanks for the input guys, I actually wound up 5 wiring the ignition wire with the (-) when active wire from the 530t... I didn't have enough time to finish the window mods yet so I'm not 100% sure what the outcome will be.   Since the driver and passenger side windows are different polarities I had to stop and let him leave.

Are you sure of that polarity issue with the windows?

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

Its actual motor wires at the switch for the passenger side window, and the driver window only has 2 small gauge negative trigger wires from the switch to the motor module thats attached (actually bolted around the connector) to the driver window motor. I had (like an idiot) everything preped for doing a "standard" install, and he didn't have the time to wait for me to cut everything apart and make it different inputs for left and right windows. which is lame because I was stoked about seeing if the 5 wire ignition thing worked.

They aren't different polarities, they are simply data or low current trigger wires going to processors attached to the motors. If you can't get at the motor wires, what the heck's the point in spending $50+ per 530t when you haven't tried to either ground or 12 volt any of those switch wires when the ignition is on? If you do and it works go back to my first post and learn from the master!

X2 with Howard!

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

Perhaps I explained the situation wrong. And I am sorry I lead you to believe that each door needed ignition. The passenger window can be controlled at the master switch in the driver door as its motor wires are present and accessible. Its the driver window that needs power from the ignition because the module needs powered up to do what its told via low current negative trigger wires from the switch. The module is bolted (like I said previously) to the motor, limiting the access to the higher current switching polarity motor wires.

Although you are "right" in the fact that the MOTORS are the same polarity, you are wrong at the point that they can be treated the same. Although I'm sure if I were to split the motor or module case I could find the motor wires (or traces for them on the board housing the relays) and interface with them there but I'm not willing to modify his sealed control module for the sake of not using two different input polarities.

So in closing howie II   I think there was a miscommunication about whats needed on my part and I hope this clears that up. In the event that the passenger door was negative trigger too your "master" post would be valid and a 530t would not be necessary so your correct... but that is not the case so your not.

First, DON'T open that processor, I've been there on a Mits and you don't want to know the problems thereafter!
Second I wonder if you've thought this through?
How does the master switch control the passenger side?
No problem if motor wires but I bet it's either data or ground pulsing in which case my first post was correct, you just have to power the driver's window switch module for 7-10 secs.
Let's face it, the Hyundai Elantra is about as common and desirable in this country as rocking horse droppings. BUT they have always used Mitsubishi technology under licence.

The drivers window is the only window that has low current negative triggers. I've used (after thorough testing with a DMM) a jumper through a 1a fuse to ground to roll it up and down and it works fine, the passenger and both rear windows are heavy gauge motor wires. Once again tested with a DMM.   And don't worry about me opening anything, like I said before I'm not trying to crack open a sealed module to find a bucket of worms. I don't care how "possible" I've heard it is, its not necessary when a negative trigger works just fine.

The only window in the car that is not traditional motor wires is the drivers, its also coincidently the only window with AUTO down.

Great, now we've tested this is the method.
First question.
At the driver's switch panel is just the driver's switch trigger wires or are they all motor wires bar the driver's.
If so use 3 x 530s and a relay set an aux for 7-10 secs to work any time.
Set another aux to work as pulsed,
Now take the first aux to the relay and your 530s. Timed aux to 85 and up wire at switch. Ignition feed to window switch panel, feed to 87a and constant 12v+ fused at 30 amps to 87 and 86. The window side of the cut feed to 30. Run the lead from 85 to the driver's window switch "up side"
The second aux, run it the 530 vent wires and again to the relay at 85 and then on to driver's window switch "down side". That will get you the desired result though if you wire the 530s at the other doors between the switches and motors this set up will give you one touch close/open on ALL the switches but close on first aux and vent on second, but it will only vent the driver's window not open it completely unless you hold the second aux. I'm surprised you found motor wires for the other doors in the driver's window because most Japanese/Korean cars now use neg. or pos. or data switching.
One last thing remember to diode those 2 aux wires, 1N4004 with the bands towards the 5901.