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05 grand prix, remote start

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=119058
Printed Date: May 16, 2024 at 9:00 PM


Topic: 05 grand prix, remote start

Posted By: JTB530
Subject: 05 grand prix, remote start
Date Posted: January 03, 2010 at 12:23 PM

I installed a code alarm 501 remote start keyless entry into an 05 Pontiac Grand Prix with a Fortin PATS-GM bypass everything works fine except I don't know how to arm the factory alarm using the 501 fobs. On the factory keyless entry one press of the lock button locks all doors and a second press arms the factory alarm and sounds the horn. How do I retain this feature with the add-on unit?
Thank You,
Jason



Replies:

Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: January 03, 2010 at 1:03 PM
You need to hook up the OEM alarm wire from the 501 to the lt. green wire at the side of the driver's side dash panel.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: JTB530
Date Posted: January 03, 2010 at 5:35 PM
Ok, so I found an orange wire on the 501 that is listed as a armed output(-) it says this wire provides a 300mA output capable of driving relays when the system is locked. Most commonly used for starter interrupt. From my interpretation this sounds like the wire that should be hooked up to the factory alarm arm lt green - @ bcm conn c2 pin22. Now my next question is. Since the alarm wasn't arming I didn't have anything hooked up to disarm it. Now with the arm wire hooked up to lock everytime when will it need to be disarmed and rearmed. For example when it's armed by the lock button when I unlock it the outside door handle disarms it each time. Will the remote start need to disarm it to function correctly and if so what would I rearm it with. What about the trunk button will using it set off the alarm if it's armed. Sorry for all the questions just trying to make sure everything is correct. This is only the sixth install I've done and without this site none of them would have been possible.
Thanks again




Posted By: sparkie
Date Posted: January 03, 2010 at 7:05 PM
Don't connect it the way you described. The orange wire is only for a starter kill relay and will cause a battery drain if used your way. Connect your lock wire to the light green wire in pin 22 and your unlock wire to the purple wire in pin 24 of the same BCM connector. These wires lock/arm the alarm and unlock/disarm the system. The alarm will disarm when starting the car. As for the trunk circuit, diode isolat the trunk output and connect it to both the unlock wire and to your trunk release circuit.

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sparky




Posted By: JTB530
Date Posted: January 04, 2010 at 4:20 PM
Ok so I moved the unlock and lock wires to arm and disarm. It unlocks/disarms and locks/arms correctly but I still don't get a horn confirmation from two presses of the lock button. The foglights come on with the factory unlock and the foglight markers come on with the lock. The rs/keyless entry remote doesn't turn either of these on. How can I make it work like factory? I used the ground after shutdown to pulse pin 26 grey/black to turn off the retained accessories and this doesn't work what do I do to shut everything down. One more thing my code alarm tech sheet says the dome supervision wire was a negative when I applied ground to it the interior lights went off and have not come back on. So I looked up the wiring on another site and it says it's a positive. So did I just buy a bcm?posted_image




Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: January 04, 2010 at 6:44 PM
Unless the Code Alarm has a programmable option for "lock confirmation chirps" or something similar, you won't be able to easily duplicate the horn honk on the second press. Currently, the Code Alarm is basically acting the same as a key turned in the driver's door when it locks/arms or unlocks/disarms, and that won't duplicate the factory remote functions(horn chirp and perimeter lighting).

The ADS-DLSL-GM1 might duplicate the factory remote functions, but I can't say for sure as I've never used one on this vehicle.

Also, you should be testing your wires with a DMM, even if someone's wiring info sheet specifies the exact pin position. My info says that the driver's front door is grey/black (-), BCM connector C2, pin 26, and the domelight supervision is grey/black (-), BCM connector C1, pin 43. I do know that some late model GMs have positive domelight supervision with that wire color, so again, meter these wires to confirm.

You may not have fried the BCM - usually the domelight/reverse light outputs are just relayed internally, and have their own fuses. Check the fuses first.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two




Posted By: sparkie
Date Posted: January 04, 2010 at 7:09 PM
Check the instrument fuse panel for a blown 10 amp fuse labeled INT LIGHT. The gray/black wire in C1 #43 is the dome light wire, but it is a positive circuit. To shut off the retained accessory power connect your circuit to the Tan wire in the C2 connector of the BCM in position # 25. This is the door ajar wire. These cars have 2 circuits for every door. One activates the interior lights and one tells the BCM the door is open. Redundant, yes, but thats the way it is. As Chris mentioned,unless you Code Alarm has a programmable horn output, you may not be able to duplicate the factory system. To duplicate the perimeter lighting the factory does on unlock, is difficult unless you can find a module that can command the BCM through data. The factory system uses an ambient light sensor and the BCM to activate all the extgerior lights for unlock when lighting conditions are low.

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sparky




Posted By: JTB530
Date Posted: January 04, 2010 at 7:39 PM
Thank you guys for all the help. I will check things out tomorrow and let you know what I find. I know I should always check everything with the DMM I just let myself get in a hurry and took it for granted. You can bet I'll be checking first from now on. Thanks again I don't know what I would do if it weren't for this site.
Jason




Posted By: JTB530
Date Posted: January 04, 2010 at 7:50 PM
I did think of one more question posted_image with the unlock hooked to the disarm it only unlocks the drivers door. Do I need to diode isolate and hook up the disarm and the unlock to make it unlock all of them at once?




Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: January 05, 2010 at 7:17 AM
Set system to double pulse.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: beegbie
Date Posted: January 05, 2010 at 10:02 PM
Velocity Motors wrote:

Set system to double pulse.


Double pulse won't work on this wire(no matter how many times the key is turned to unlock in the driver's door cylinder it will only unlock the driver's door). If the remote start had a second door unlock you could send this to the unlock wire but the 501 doesn't have this. You will have to send your unlock wire (Blue)to the ORANGE / black in the car. Then use the factory alarm disarm wire to the purple wire in the car. The other issue this will cause is the door will unlock before start so the pulse after start will have to be wired to the RED / black lock wire in the car. Hope this helps.





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