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rookie remote starter on 2005 civic

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=119125
Printed Date: July 13, 2025 at 9:36 AM


Topic: rookie remote starter on 2005 civic

Posted By: nomaxtech
Subject: rookie remote starter on 2005 civic
Date Posted: January 05, 2010 at 9:47 PM

Hi everyone,

I bought my girlfriend a remote starter for Christmas and decided I would attempt the install myself. I'm generally pretty good with electronics and wiring and didn't see much of a challenge. I found a wiring diagram on here and went to work. Everything went very smoothly. The remote starter works likes a charm except for one issue.

The remote starter will engage the starter but the car will not start...UNLESS there is a key in the ignition. The key doesn't have to be turned to on or anything, it just has to be in there. After doing hours and hours of research I found some information about transponders and bypass modules and stuff like that. I mostly understand what's going on and why but I have a few questions if there are any experts out there willing to help.

First, does a 2005 Honda Civic need one of these modules? As far as my research has taken me, the answer looks like a yes.

Second, I read somewhere that I would have to put a spare key in the bypass module so it could fake the signal. Is that true? That sounds a bit ridiculous.

Third, how difficult is it to install one of these bypass modules? As far as encrypted keys and modules and data buses and car computers go, I don't want to permanantly disable the car.

And last, what's a good price for one of these modules? I called a local store and they quoted me at about $50 for the module.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. If you can include details that would be most excellent. Thanks in advance for your help!




Replies:

Posted By: x1le
Date Posted: January 05, 2010 at 9:55 PM
The easiest module for you would be the directed 556u.

Yes, you put a key inside the bypass mod and tuck it up somewhere.

There are only 3 connections on the module to make: status, power, and ground.




Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: January 06, 2010 at 3:41 PM
X2 with x1le!

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: January 06, 2010 at 4:05 PM

everyone has a preferance when it comes to bypass modules. I like ot use Fortin pieces. The HONDA-SL3 is 30bucks canadian, so 25 or so usd



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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: January 06, 2010 at 7:22 PM
Note his heading Ted the first word is the clue! Hence the recommendation!posted_image

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: January 07, 2010 at 10:24 AM
To the Terrible Twins, can I join the Southern version, it's 0f here and I can't get any deliveries!
Methinks this one is going to run and run and we still haven't come to factory alarm disable or clutch switches if manual.




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: January 07, 2010 at 8:12 PM

ahah howie, are we both that bad? lol

well to the OP, the bypass connections vary from manufactures. The Fortin will require 6 wire connections (ignition, security led, power, ground, ground when running, data)

The 556u will definitly be the easiest (3 wire hookup) buy you have to sacrifice a key. For the price differance which is minimal, stick to a data type bypass. I found it to be better than key in box during colder temps.

i have a feeling we are dealing with an auto. as far as FAD, lets hope it was run, since on this gen civic, the door lock and disarm/arm wires are convienantly located next to each other @ the micu.



-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: nomaxtech
Date Posted: January 07, 2010 at 8:55 PM
tedmond, thanks for the info. I'd think I'd rather go with the data type you mentioned instead of giving up a key. This particular Civic is pretty bare bones. No factory alarm, no power door locks or windows, not even cruise control. I figured it would be decently easy because of this.

I can use Google just as well as anybody else but just for the heck of it, where would you recommend I purchase the module?

Everything but the security led and data seem self-explanitory. Are there human-readable install instructions that come with the module? ...or, if you're willing, could you help me through it? I know what it's like to do tech support because I'm an IT Admin so I promise not to be an annoying and clueless noob. I catch on lightning quick and know that if I do it once, it will stick.




Posted By: JWorm
Date Posted: January 07, 2010 at 9:53 PM
See if you can find a PKH3. Very inexpensive module I used to like to use on Honda's and very few wires to hook up. If you can read, its hard to screw up. Download the manual at bypasskit.com first. Sorry, no recommendations on where to buy one.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: January 08, 2010 at 4:20 AM
Actually Ted you and your twin t&t are both THAT GOOD!
I have pet names for the people I like, and I thought Terrible Twins was nicer than Dynamic Duo! You're both fast learners, help others so nothing but praise! I should be Grumpy old Man, but Chris Wallace prefers Bad Cop!




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: January 08, 2010 at 6:44 AM

Thanks Howie! well i dont think your the grumpy old man, i just see you as the man thats VERY knowledgeable in everything. Trust me, i have read posts and when you reply its just to the point, and their problem ends up gettting resolved.

I was going to ask, in the UK, do they have special license requirements in order for you to install alarms/rs? I ask because in Ontario, Canada, MECP means NOTHING to a shop. They only care if you have an Automotive Electric Accessory Technicial (AEAT aka 310K license). Since UK has multiple CAT type systems, do they require more licensing/training?

again to the OP, sorry for running on in your post.As Jworm mentioned, the PKH3 is fairly inexpensive, but like i said, EVERYONE has their own opinions. Your best bet is to check ebay then call local shops.If your paying 50 bucks its alot more that what installers would pay, but then again you do need one.

i use fortin so heres a installation guide to their stuff. pretty simple and fool proof. this is for the 05 civic specifically.
https://ifar.ca/download/1341/honda-sl3_honda_civic_%282001-2005%29.rev-a.pdf

as mentioned, your best bet is to call and shop around to see who offers what for the cheaper cost. To be honest, i dont even think shops in the states carry Fortin stuff, as it costs more for them to buy(made in canada) so shipping adds up etc. I haev a feeling the idatalink or bypasskits would be alot cheaper. (this is just assumptions)

and of course im always willing to help. I was once a rookie (maybe i still amposted_image) but life is a learning curve so might as well share the knowledge. Cheers!


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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert





Posted By: nomaxtech
Date Posted: January 08, 2010 at 3:56 PM

Seriously, thanks to everybody. You all have been very helpful. Every little bit of information one way or another was greatly appreciated. I ended up getting a PKALL module because it was the only one I could find locally. I would have bought online but I was excited to get to it right away. It retailed for $50, a bit much I suppose. Whatever, this is a learning experience and that's invaluable.

At any rate, I have everything connected EXCEPT the (-) While Running wire. There is no extra information in any of the manuals. I looked around online and found contradicting articles. One of them said to connect this wire to something on the remote starter itself. I assumed it could be the (-) Status Output. The only issue with that is that I read in a different article that the Status Output is active immediately and I wasn't sure if that meant before the car was up and running or not.

My question here is...what do I connect the (-) While Running wire to?

Again, thanks in advance.





Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: January 08, 2010 at 4:14 PM
connect the (-) while running from the PKALL to the (-) status output of the remote start unit. Hope this helps.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: nomaxtech
Date Posted: January 08, 2010 at 5:12 PM
Success! Thank you so much! Now I'm a pro! posted_image





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