2009 toyota camry se and viper 5901

Alright, I am installing my 5901 BEFORE my system goes in and I have read this forum to the brink of madness.  I have a couple of simple questions and I would like a quick review of what "I think" the correct setup is for this car.  I am using the XK05 (I have read about it's hell) and plan on wiring it directly to the colum.

Anyways, as far as remote start is concerned, this is what I came up with..

(Harnesss H3)

H1/Pink -> IGN1 (yellow) solder to existing wire, do not cut

H2/RED / White -> 12 volt source constant (Do I NEED to wire this?)

H3/Orange -> ACC1 (white) solder to existing, do not cut

H4/Violet -> S1 (blue) cut wire, solder to engine side

H5/Green -> S1 (blue) cut wire, solder to key side

H6/Red -> 12 volt source constant

H7/Pink/White -> IGN2 (pink) solder to existing, do not cut

H8/Pink/Black -> Not sure here.  I also have a Starter 2 wire on the camry, Is this where a SPDT relay comes into play using the violet (-200mA) on the RS harness?

H9/RED / Black -> 12 volt source constant

Want to do this just once and right.

Also, on the XK05, I see where the wires are on the colum, my question is do I need to fuse the constant? and do I need to plug it into the D2D jack on the 5901?

Ok, last few..

I got the trunk release.. I will never ask that question.. :)

With the 5901 on harness H1,

Parking light relay..  What is the proper setup for this car? (I see the WHITE/ brown & white parking light wires)

The WHITE/ blue remote start activation, where does this go?

On Harness (H2)

Light GREEN/ black & white (OEM arm / disarm)  I could not find on the wiring diagrams where to tap this into..

Light blue 2nd unlock - Do I just take this and the blue unlock and tap it into the same unlock wire on the car?  (My car has the press once unlock drivers, press twice unlock all)

That's about it.. Sorry if this is too much.. but better safe than sorry and I hope I did not ask the same question

that has been asked 100's of times.. (probably did)

Any help would be greatly appreciated... Thanks..

Is this car a push to start or hybrid??

I would not use this bypass on this car, use an ADS-AL-CA from idatalink, you will need to find the adaptor cable that works in conjunction with DEI and Idatalink, it will still be wired in D2D

H3/1 Pink   IGN 1       (will go to yellow at ignition switch)

H3/2 RED / White  12V       (will go to thick black at the dash fuse box, it is in a 1 pin plug)

H3/3 Orange   ACC      (will go to white at ignition switch)

H3/4 Violet   Starter      (will go to blue at ignition switch)

H3/5 Green (not needed)

H3/6 Red   12V      (will go to thick black at the dash fuse box, it is a 1 pin connector)

H3/7 Pink/White   2nd IGN      (will go to pink at ignition switch)

H3/8 Pink/Black (not needed)

H3/9 RED / Black   12V      (will go thick black at the dash fuse box, it is a 1 pin connector)

you will need to wire a relay for the second starter wire (you will use H2/13 to power a relay for this)

H1/11 White   Parklights     (switch the jumper internally on the viper brain for NEGATIVE parklights and then connect this wire to a BLACK wire at the headlight switch  harness

H1/10 WHITE/ Blue   remote start activation   (not needed)

if you use the idatalink bypass you do not need the OEM alarm and disarm wires

if you use the idatalink bypass you do not need any of the door lock wires

the idatalink bypass will control doorlocks, oem alarm, trunk release, e-brake, tach, brake, doorpin, hoodpin (if equipped), trunkpin

this is just for reference   YOU NEED TO TEST ALL YOUR WIRES YOU ARE HOOKING UP TO AVOID POSSIBLE ISSUES

in your situation you won't need to hook up the green wire,   THAT IS HOW

it is for a starter kill relay, but your car already has a factory immobilizer, plus it COULD avoid future issues

yes you are right H3/4 violet  (starter) goes to your starter wire in the car

No offense 05, but lets do it right and connect the starter kill relay. Cut the blue at the ignition switch and connect H3/5 green to the switch side and H3/4 purple to the starter side. This will not only allow the starter kill to work, but make the anti-grind work.

You can get power for the RED / white, RED / black and the red at the wire 05 suggests, or you can use the black wire at the ignition switch. Either will work.

I am totally with 05 on the Idatalink module. Great unit and the XK05 stinks.

Oem arm/disarm wires, don't use them. You will need to connect the blue or blue/white status wire from the RS to the key sense wire to disarm. This wire is blue in a 2 pin plug right next to the ignition switch. This will make the car think the key is in the ignition when you use the RS and disarm the factory alarm. Factory arm and disarm when you use the alarm will occur when you connect the lock/unlock wires.

Also, yes the second unlock wire simply gets connected to the first unlock. This will make your 2 stage unlock work.

Don't forget the relay is needed for second starter, very important. I don't know the Viper product well enough to tell you if it has a flex relay that will do second starter like AVOX products do. If not, use a relay as you stated using the thin violet wire to activate it.

Mike..

Your post made me think and I just looked at the wiring for the Viper, here is the output

Pink - IGN1 (also ignition sense input)

RED / White - 12V constant (+) fused 30a input (contact 87 or RS flex relay)

Orange - Accessory output

Violet - starter output (car side)

green - starter output (key side)

Red - 12V constant (+) fused 30a input (for ignition 1 relay)

Pink/White - Flex Relay output

Pink/Black - Flex Relay contact 87a

Red / Black - 12V constant (+) fused 30a input (for accessory and starter relay)

This is the starter harness for the 5901, also, on the RS harness, there is the following that could be a help

Blue RS status (-) 200mA output

Violet RS starter (-) 200mA output

On the Toyota side, we have this..

Battery Black (+)

IGN 1 Yellow (+)

IGN 2 Pink (+)

Access 1 White (+)

Starter 1 Blue (+)

Starter 2 Gray (+)

Key Sense Blue (-)

Also, If I pick up the Idatalink, based on what I read, looks like there will only be 3 or 4 wires, 2 to key 2 to CANbus and thats it?

Everything else gets spliced into alarm unit..

Anyways, I dont want to screw up the starter circuits and I got everything else nailed down, so guidence in putting the

right thin in the right place based on the above would be perfect.. and yes, the 5901 has a flex relay.  Still need a SPDT?

With the idatalink piece you will most likely connect 6 wires to the car if you don't have a factory hoodpin, or 5 wires to the car if you have a factory hoodpin, you can use the D2D cable or hardwire everything to the remote starter, If you decide to hardwire you obviously will have more wires

you will splice into the black wire at the ignition, not cut it

MIKE M2 no offense taken

"most" new cars have factory antigrind, including my own personal car which is a 09 volkswagen, the last 09 corolla I did I never used the relay and it wouldn't let the starter crank once it was already runnning, So I am assuming the 09 camry might have it anyways

I personally don't put the starter relay in the car unless the car is pre factory immobilzer era or the customer requests it, if something goes wrong you always get those customers who get stranded and then they freak out at you

thunderplains wrote:

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Ok.. After a few cups of coffee.. Let me know if I am heading in the right direction..

Pink/White - Flex Relay Output - IGN 2 Pink (+)

Pink/Black - Flex Relay Contact 87a - Not used

wire up a STSP relay as follows
85 or 86 - RS violet -200mA starter
30 - Starter 2 Grey (+)
87 - 12v constant fused 30amp (black from harness (+))

Right direction?

Also, with the starter 2, I cut starter 1, does not seem like you need to do that here, just splice..

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Correct. Do not cut starter 2. Relay is correct, but use 85 or 86 for for thin Violet na dht eother one needs 12 volts constant along with 87.

thunderplains wrote:

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Perfect..

I picked up the ADS-ALCA.. Muuuuuuccchhh better..

One question, the GWR, does this tie to WHITE/ blue remote start activation? and I can run the constant and the black to the same point as the alarm, yes?

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Ground when running on the Idatalink? Goes to the blue status wire on the RS. Nothing connects to the WHITE/ blue. Not sure i understand the second Q...

Yes, tie it into the other power and grounds.

No, don't use them.

Yes, tie into the first unlock...

Make sure your park light output is set to negative if you use the black wire.

E brake not used.

blue white not needed.

Tie the second unlock and the first unlock together.

I don't know how much draw the 520T needs, never installed one. It must be a lot so you may want to connect the red on it to the fat black on the front of the BCM/fuse box which is a 50amp.

I believe you ground the ORANGE / black on the Idata if you DON'T have a hood pin switch.

ALWAYS hard wire, D2D is very unreliable. Make sure you program accordingly for this.

The blue/white GWR is the exact same as the blue staus wire. It gives ground when ever the Rs is on. You use it for things like keysense(which you don't need thanks to the Idata) or to turn on key in a box bypass. You are using the blue staus to trigger the Idata(connected to the blue/white on the Idata) which simply tells the bypass to turn on.

As for defog, i have never done it on a Camry.

It really seems like the Idatalink takes care of alot and I only have to hook up a hand full of wires to the car?  Nice...

I am taking a look now at the kick panel for the defrost 

you have to run a hood pin switch out to the engine area

run the grey wire from the viper unit to the hoodpin switch, there is no connection from the idatalink module