2010 toyota rav4

Does it need a bypass and if so will a 556U work

Mike M2 wrote:

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Use Idatalink and the factory remotes will still work when you remote start it.

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what does the bypass have to do with the remotes working? its the vehicle that locks out the remotes when the ignition is on how would a bypass make any difference

idatalink has a firmware for their modules where it allows the factory fobs to work while the ignition is still on for toyotas

I bought a APS 57N to install in to this 2010 Rav 4 and noticed that to unlock u need a double pulse and the remote start doesnt have a second  unlock feature is there anyway of going around it. Thanks in advance

pitoaudivisual-

 The feature you are looking for in the APS57N programming is in Bank 2, 3rd option--1 Sec. L, Dbl. U/L.  This will provide a double pulse on the APS57N Green Unlock wire when the unlock button on the remote is pressed.  The Lock pulse (Red wire from the APS57N) will remain as a single1 Second lock pulse.

kreg357 wrote:

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Usually on Toyota's, if you go to the passenger kick panel and find the UnLock wire from the passengers door, one pulse will unlock all doors.  It means extending the R/S's UnLock wire but it opens all doors on one pulse...

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On most Toyota's you can do this from the drivers door also, but it won't disarm(this is the same wire on the passengers side). There are two unlocks, one from the switch and one from the key cylinder. You always want the key cylinder...

they do not need to be connecte when using D2D, however i prefer wire 2 wire method.

that basically means wire up all the wires marked in red.

As far as wiring between the iDatalink module and the R/S...

If the iDatalink module is handling the door locks for you, then you connect the R/S door lock outputs to the iDatalink module only.  No need to connect to the cars lock wires.  The iDatalink module will pass the lock commands along to the car thru the CAN high / low wires.  Anything the iDatalink doesn't do has to be connected from the R/S to the car, like parking lights or horn, etc. 

Additionally the iDatalink module will supply a Tach signal and the Brake (+) signal to the R/S so you won't have to connect the R/S to those wires in the car, just connect between the R/S and the iDatalink modules.

Can you provide some experience with the 2010 RAV4 install?

For some reason I'm not able to detect the following 2 wires: (what am i forgetting?)

LOCK  Pink  On white plug in driver's kickpanel  -
UNLOCK  Blue (double pulse)  On white plug in driver's kickpanel  -

But I did detect a (-)pulse on the black wire on a white plug in driver's kickpanel for the unlock switch on door.
And other wires I was looking for in ignition switch harness and fusebox area were detected.

Thanks

Yes i used a voltmeter on the wires. but i didn't get a ground on the 2 wires when i pressed the lock & unlock buttons on the key.

i should have tried the key on the door too - but i assumed the keyless entry buttons on the key would produce the same results. i have to do that next to see if there's a difference.

But what i want to do is use the keyless entry buttons to activate/deactivate an alarm system by using those 2 wires as inputs.  I'm putting in the Viper 330 alarm.

Thanks for your response.

Finally got to test the following wires:

LOCK Pink On white plug in driver's kickpanel - (This is for key-on-door lock)

UNLOCK Blue (double pulse) On white plug in driver's kickpanel - (This is key-on-door unlock)

And the keyless entry buttons on the key do not initiate a ground pulse on these wires. So they are isolated from the door cylinder key actions.

Can someone provide the wiring locations for the keyless entry buttons?

I want to use the OEM keyless entry buttons as inputs to activate/deactivate an alarm system, the Viper 330V alarm.

Thanks,

Isn't a bypass used for remote start?

And I don't have a factory alarm system, only keyless entry.