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python 991 wiring harness

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=119168
Printed Date: May 28, 2024 at 3:24 PM


Topic: python 991 wiring harness

Posted By: snidd111
Subject: python 991 wiring harness
Date Posted: January 07, 2010 at 2:34 PM

This is my first security install, my general experience is installing audio equipment. I have a couple questions or reassurances for setting up the Python 991 system I recently got for my 99 Toyota Camry 4-cyl.

With the H3 the guide goes as follows:
[code]H3/1 pink: (+)ignition 1 input/output
H3/2 RED / white: (87)flex relay input (30A fused)
H3/3 orange: (+)accessory output
H3/4 violet: (+)starter output (car side)
H3/5 green: (+)starter input (key side)
H3/6 red: ignition 1 input (30A fused)
H3/7 pink/white: (30)flex relay output
H3/8 pink/black: (87a)flex relay input
H3/9 RED / black: accessory/starter relay input (30A fused)
H3/10 n/c: no connection[/code]

I understand 4 and 5, but i'm not sure about 1, 2, and 6-9.
I noticed that in a diagram of my car there is an Ignition 1 wire as well as a 12v constant. Can someone explain the wiring to me? I'd rather understand what I'm doing than just have an answer.

Also the H2 harness has a few of the same nature, an OEM alarm disarm/arm output, a horn honk output, status output, relay control output, starter output, ignition 1 output, and a neutral safety input.

I have the installation guide with explanations but they're fairly vague.



Replies:

Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: January 07, 2010 at 3:28 PM

Pink- This will connect to the true ignition wire in your vehicle, it is the output for the ignition circuit   when remote started and the input ignition circuit for the alarm!

RED / white- connect this to the heavy gauge constant twelve volt wire in the ignition harness!

Red- Same as RED / white!

Pink/white- to second ignition wire in vehicle!

Pink/black- unused in your application, tape off the end!

RED / black- same as RED / white and red!



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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5




Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: January 07, 2010 at 3:32 PM
On the h2 harness, you would not need the oem arm and disarm wires, horn honk is optional if you want to connect or not, this would sound the horn when the alarm is triggered, status out can be used for many things such as bypass application if your vehicle has a factory immobiliser, starter output is a negative low current trigger for a second starter circuit if needed, you won't need this or the ignition 1 output, ignore these, neutral safety, this wire needs to see ground in order for the remote start to function!

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5




Posted By: snidd111
Date Posted: January 07, 2010 at 5:09 PM
thanks so much for the help! i was outside working on wiring in the H1 harness but it got dark sadly....winter is not a good month for outdoor work.

For quick clarification, the "true ignition" is Ignition 1 and the second ignition is Ignition 2 right?

and when I connect these what kind of method would i be using. Like do I just cut the wire and use the end with the feed to go to the alarm system? What would the other end of the cut cable connect to? I hope that makes sense.




Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: January 07, 2010 at 7:12 PM
True ignition is igniton 1, and second ignition is ignition 2! You are NOT cutting any wires except the starter wire! The other connections are just "taps", strip of some insulation about at least an inch long on each wire, and connect the various remote start wires, use solder to hold it and scotch 33 to seal!

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5




Posted By: snidd111
Date Posted: January 07, 2010 at 7:18 PM
got it. good thing i decided to bring my soldering kit with me then! that would essentially have been the same though if I had used a crimp to splice in the new wire to the old wire.




Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: January 07, 2010 at 7:26 PM
No it would not have been essentially the same!

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5




Posted By: snidd111
Date Posted: January 07, 2010 at 7:30 PM
really? electrically I can't see the difference if both ends of the ignition are still connected and the new wire has been added within the crimp?




Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: January 07, 2010 at 7:39 PM

If you really want to pursue that argument, i'm afraid i'll have to desist from assisting you!



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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5




Posted By: snidd111
Date Posted: January 07, 2010 at 7:41 PM
haha no need to pursue. the assistance has been greatly appreciated and i'm more than willing to try things your way




Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: January 07, 2010 at 7:43 PM

Thought so! posted_image

Glad to help! Any more problems feel free to ask!



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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5




Posted By: snidd111
Date Posted: January 07, 2010 at 8:24 PM
a last question about the ignition. the old alarm i took out was an audiovox
wiring diagram

The yellow line that runs to the ignition..can that be used from the old harness for the new ignition 1? i've got the orange one working as the 500mA ground when armed output as it did with the old alarm




Posted By: snidd111
Date Posted: January 07, 2010 at 9:17 PM
the audiovox guide specifies that this wire is connected to a source that is hot when the key is in the on and in the crank positions. the source must be off when the key is in the off position.

from the sound of it seems possible that it wasn't connected to the ignition wire




Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: January 08, 2010 at 8:43 AM
You don't need that GWA wire, the heavy gauge harness has the starter interrupt built in! That yellow wire currently connected to the ignition wire on the vehicle would be of a gauge significantly smaller than that of the pink wire you have to connect at present! So no don't connect that pink wire to the yellow, connect directly to the haevy gauge wire!

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5




Posted By: snidd111
Date Posted: January 08, 2010 at 11:07 AM
got it. still need to think twice when you and this installation guide refer to heavy gauge. when it comes to car audio...i've had to help with 0/1 AWG. i could palm that wire.




Posted By: snidd111
Date Posted: January 08, 2010 at 12:45 PM
i've got a hold of my ignition harness and can identify the wires i need. the issues is that it's high up behind my dash, not just plastic, but also a metal frame plate. this makes it extremely difficult to approach. is there another way that you know? i'm also noticing wire taps. would this be an ok approach? (it'd prob save me 30+ min trying to reach up there and work with the wires)




Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: January 08, 2010 at 7:27 PM

No wire taps! Period! Why not remove the steering column panel and detach the entire harness from the back of the ignition switch, this would make it easier to work with the wiires!



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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5




Posted By: snidd111
Date Posted: January 09, 2010 at 2:46 PM
i detached the harness while i was underneath the column. the problem is maneuvering my hands. i can only get one hand up there really at a time. they strapped it in with a lot of other cabling and left only about 3 inches exposed. i'm going to have to look into removing the dash paneling maybe tomorrow if the weather is alright and see if i can get at it from above. all this help has been enormously appreciated by the way!!! it's rare you find a community with people willing to help with a good attitude.





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