clifford 50.7 remote start
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=119388
Printed Date: May 11, 2024 at 10:59 AM
Topic: clifford 50.7 remote start
Posted By: maddy
Subject: clifford 50.7 remote start
Date Posted: January 16, 2010 at 1:34 PM
I am on my first install of a clifford 50.7, it is in a ford f-350 7.3 diesel four door with keless entry. I have one wire that I don't know where it goes, a WHITE/ blue (-) input for the remote start? Seems the remote start needs a negative pulse to "activate"? Is this my problem? Where does this wire get the pulse it needs to activate the remote start? Where does it hook up? All is well as far as the alarm goes (i think), it all works except the remote start. The remote start will activate (according to the remote), and i can hear the relays but that is it. I have it set to a 15 sec delay instead of the wait to start wire. Please help this is killing me!
Replies:
Posted By: maddy
Date Posted: January 16, 2010 at 1:35 PM
Sorry it is a 1999 model f-350
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: January 16, 2010 at 2:35 PM
White blue is irrelevant. If you've connected it up correctly, ground it twice and the R/S will activate. Sounds more like you have a by-pass problem.
Try it with the key in the ignition. If it starts you've done something wrong with the by-pass. If it still doesn't start, you've done something else wrong. Also wire for tach not virtual tach.
Posted By: maddy
Date Posted: January 16, 2010 at 2:45 PM
Cool I'm going out to try it now, I did hook the tach wire to the cluster tach wire thanks
Posted By: maddy
Date Posted: January 16, 2010 at 2:57 PM
I just tried it and it did remote start with the key in the on position. I noticed you said ground it (twice) explain that please. It did also attempt another start (starter grind) after it auto started. thanks for your help
Posted By: maddy
Date Posted: January 16, 2010 at 3:44 PM
After trying it a few more times, I must have been mistaken on the starter trying to engage again. I never heard it again. The truck starts right up on the remote start if the key is on, I let it run the entire 12 min and it will not kill the engine when time expires either. If I try to remote start with the key out of the ignition and wait a minute and then stick the key in and turn it on it starts right up. Also when I get out and shut the door, if I arm the alarm it tells me that a door is open (the interior dome light is still on) if I wait for it to go out it arms fine. When I disarm the alarm the interior light doesn't come on like it did with the keyless entry. Not that big of a deal just wondering if it was an easy fix? If not I'll leave it alone. Thanks
Posted By: maddy
Date Posted: January 16, 2010 at 9:46 PM
Posted By: sneakycyber
Date Posted: January 17, 2010 at 12:25 AM
Insert the key in the ignition cylinder and DONT TURN IT. Try remote starting. If the vehicle starts then the problem lies in the bypass. Try reprogramming, make sure all the wires are properly connected. The blue/white wire is for when you install the alarm system as an Wdditional component in another system. when you pulse this wire 2 times to ground it will activate the remote starter just as if you pressed the start button on the remote. The reason the alarm is telling you the door is open is becuase the vehicle is equipped with exit delay dome light and your connecting your door trigger to the domelight wire. The only way I know of to bypass this is to get the door triggers independantly at the switches. What bypass are you using?
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Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: January 17, 2010 at 3:06 AM
There you go, sneakycyber has said it all, take it from there. The reason it still starts for up to a minute is because the factory transponder immobiliser has about a minute's internal memory once the power has been removed. (Static or internal capacitance) When testing I always remove the key from the vehicle and wait 5 minutes.
Posted By: maddy
Date Posted: January 17, 2010 at 8:29 AM
To the best of knowledge there is no bypass, is this something that is programmed or an additional piece of hardware? I do not have a chip key or factory alarm, therefore I didn't think I needed to bypass anything. Is there something within the keyless that needs bypassed? Please explain this "bypass" for my truck a little further. I've tried remote starting the truck without turning the key and it doesn't do anything, I hear the relays but that is it. When the remote start is acting correctly should it act just like the key has been turned? When I turn the key the dash lights go through their checks, the wait to start light comes on and times out, the fuel pump comes on all that good stuff! When the remote start is activated none of this happens, just the relays clicking. Thanks
Posted By: sneakycyber
Date Posted: January 17, 2010 at 12:56 PM
Are you sure it doesn't have a PATS system. Its possible, but I get conflicting information from Audiovox and Bypass kits. Either way you don't have the starter wired correctly anyways. Did you test your IGN 1, IGN 2, IGN 3/acc, and starter wires? Did you connect ALL of the red wires to high current 12 volt source such as a 12 Gauge or higher wire in the ignition wires or a wire directly to the battery or fuse box? IGN 1 will test positive with the key in run and during crank. IGN 2 will test positive during run and OFF during crank. IGN 3 Will test positive during run and OFF during crank, it may also test positive in the ACC position. Accessory wire will test positive during run/or ACC position and OFF during crank. Also you want to connect the wait to start wire this is the best way to do it. Also as posted above CONNECT THE TACH WIRE its to easy to just forget to and more of a headache if you don't. If the vehicle starts with the key in the run position then at least your start wire is working ok. check your Ignition wires and make sure they are connected securely and to the proper wires.
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Posted By: maddy
Date Posted: January 17, 2010 at 2:20 PM
OK thanks for the info, I will go back through those wires as soon as I get a chance. Wife duties today! thanks
Posted By: maddy
Date Posted: January 18, 2010 at 2:45 PM
Got it!! Thanks for your help Chad, everything works as it is suppose to now.
Posted By: maddy
Date Posted: January 18, 2010 at 5:47 PM
Hey guys, I will be installing another Clifford 50.7 on my wifes 2001 Excursion (diesel), soon and I understand it has the PATS system on it. What do I need to bypass this thing? It does have a chip key, and I only have one! I've read where you can bypass it but you need two keys, if that is the case what is the best (cheapest) way to aquire another key, without going to Ford. I've been meaning to get one anyway. By the way Chad I had the main power to the start relay coming off of the ACC wire! DUUHH :) The wife is jealous now and wants to know when I'm gonna put her alarm/RS on, awsome range on that thing, had my truck in my shop and RS'ed it from over a half mile. Sweet!
Posted By: sneakycyber
Date Posted: January 18, 2010 at 6:41 PM
You want to get the Xpresskit XK04 You can get it from Amazon it takes about a week to get unless you pay for faster shipping. IF you have a shop where you bought the Clifford get one from them. Now for the bad news. If you only have 1 key for the ford THERE IS NO KNOWN WAY to program with only one key. At least I haven't found one and I have been looking for awhile. They only way around it is to go to a ford dealer and pay 200+ dollars to get a new ign cylinder installed and reprogrammed. If you had a remote start in there already we could either use a the key in the bypass or trigger the bypass to fool the computer but since there is no unit in the excursion your stuck.
Edit: No they key from your truck won't work, and if you get a cylinder from a junk yard with 2 keys you still need a dealer to program it to the computer of the excursion -------------
Posted By: moonliter
Date Posted: January 18, 2010 at 7:24 PM
You are very lucky with a 2001 ford excursion b/c you can program a spare key or a pats bypass module with just one good working key. see here & here
Posted By: maddy
Date Posted: January 18, 2010 at 9:22 PM
https://cgi./ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360217286084 Thanks for the info. is this what I need and is this a good price? Sounds like from reading on the link that this thing takes the chip key completely out of service? That I can have another key (without a chip) cut and it will work fine? If I install this thing do I still need the Xpresskit XK04 or does this unit cover what that module does also? Also what do you guys think about these add ons? https://www.amazon.com/Install-Essentials-508D-Disturbance-Sensor/product-reviews/B0009VFOME/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1 After I got the Clifford working on my truck while testing I could beat the hell out of my door and not set the alarm off. I had to go to work and didn't get to do any adjusting on it but i thought about the add on sensors also. Thanks for the info
Posted By: sneakycyber
Date Posted: January 18, 2010 at 10:20 PM
Your ebay link doesn't work. As for your alarm try turning the shock sensor up. Its electronic so you can adjust it through the remote (read your manual its in there). If its still not sensitive enough try a different mounting position for the alarm brain (this is where the shock sensor is located). If after re-locating the alarm you still don't have the sensitivity you wan't I would recommend you NOT getting a radar sensor and get another shock sensor , Air disturbance sensor an such as the 509U or a glass break sensor. I warn you on the radar sensor while they are prety cool they are VERY difficult to set up properly and cause lots of false alarms. A properly set shock sensor and air disturbance sensor are much more effective.
Also the bypass I mentioned above is D2D compatible with the clifford alarm and it does not require you to purchase another key to leave in the unit. It also does not use a an antenna to transmit the signal to the cars computer it is hard wired into the PATS system ensuring it works properly. This brings me to my next point be sure to properly connect the bypass to the Transmit and Receive wires at the ingition cylinder and SOLDER them do NOT use ANY tap style connectors. Also when your wiring the bypass module be sure to connect the Ignition 1 wire of the bypass to the IGN 1 wire of the starter. If you don't it wont program. -------------
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