2007 mazda3, found myself over my head

got in wayyy over my head. install is supposed to be a Viper 5701 (pink edition) in a 2007 Mazda 3.

install guide: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=710
Wiring Sheet: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=563

most everything makes sense.

i don't unfortunately see anything for the rear defrost. the vehicle has one. DEI's tech sheet doesn't list it.

also, with the doorpins, there seems to be a bunch of conflicting information.   DEI's techsheet says that they're negative but "These wires may rest at ground with the doors closed and go to an open circuit when the doors are opened." then it says to use a special add-on to interface with the doorpins. (Directed 451M)

still further there's a thread on the mazda forums with this:

https://img356.imageshack.us/img356/3400/mazda3doorpins21vr.jpg

is this setup (12V with a 10K ohm resistor) doing the same thing that the 451M does?

even worse yet, other forum members say they just hook the alarm right up without the 12V + 10K ohm resistor and it works just fine.



also, so how do i get my dome light to function correctly?

https://www.the12volt.com/12voltimages/illneg.gif <-- this?????

once i get these couple of things taken care of (especially the rear defrost) i can confidently say i know what im doing and get down to business.

i've learned sooooo much through this whole thing, so you guys have to be some smart cookies to work on these new breed of cars :)

All Door Trigger		BLACK/ BLUE		(-)		BROWN PLUG BEHIND GLOVEBOX
	Domelight Super		BLACK/ BLUE		(-)		BROWN PLUG BEHIND GLOVEBOX
	LF Latch		BLACK / YELLOW		(-)		BROWN PLUG BEHIND GLOVEBOX
	RF Latch		BLACK/ BLUE		(-)		BROWN PLUG BEHIND GLOVEBOX
	LR Latch		BLACK/ ORANGE		(-)		BROWN PLUG BEHIND GLOVEBOX
	RR Latch		BLACK/ GREEN		(-)		BROWN PLUG BEHIND GLOVEBOX

* TO AVOID DOMELIGHT DELAY USE INDIVIDUAL DOOR TRIGGERS AND DIODE ISOLATE EACH WIRE.

 

This is the information that I have for the Mazda 3 and it's door trigger system. THe dome light delay can be programmed out on the CPU as long as the CPU has this option.

 

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

hmmm.... that doesn't say you need a 12V source to pull up the door pins. i'll try just hooking it up straight and seeing if it should work.

also, dome light delay means it waits until the dome lights are off before arming the system, right?


jeff and others: ur tech sheets don't list a rear defroster? i wonder what's up with these vehicles? what does it typically mean when DEI or whatever doesn't list something? that it's not available to use?

ya know what, screw the dome light delay. in the wifey's car (where its going) every time you unlock the doors it turns on the dome lights automatically. so when she goes to remote start, it double pulses to turn off the factory alarm which also turns on the dome lights. ( i think)

once again, thank you guys for your continued help.

1 simple question.

1. how would i go about figuring out what resistor values open just the front drivers side door? the techsheets list "Lock is negative trigger thru an 1,000 ohm resistor. Unlock is a straight negative trigger." this information is incomplete as my vehicle has a progressive door lock function. there's lock (straight ground), unlock all (ground through 1K ohm resistor), and unlock drivers door (ground through a ?????K resistor).

is there a test i can do to find out how to just unlock the just the drivers side door?

Forget about resistors that's a Ford set-up and it's also a sleeper, wire it as the dreaded 1076 tech tip which I'm sure is on this site, if not pm me with your email and I'll send it to you. In my wealth of experience, that's the only method that works properly.
If your dome light comes on automatically when the doors are unlocked, you DON'T need dome light supervision.
Progressive locks; simply programme the unit for double unlock pulse and yes use a 451m other wise your unit's lock/unlock outputs haven't enough current to get past the resistor.
Rear defrost; try this. Turn on engine and rear defrost. Turn off engine. Turn on again. If rear defrost or HRW as we call it stays on, just wire up normally and leave it on the night before.
If not test at hatch or find plug in rear with leads going to rear window. Find the wire that goes 12v+ when you turn on the HRW, then set up an aux or use a status output/GWR wire to a relay 85, 12v+ constant at 30amps fused to 30 and 86 and feed 87 to that wire. Alternatively find the HRW relay at the front (BCM) ,OR it's trigger and use that. If it's neg. going wire from the status wire but a), if you use a relay, diode across the 65 and 876 with the band towards 86 and on the other method, a diode inline with the band towards the R/S.

howie: the 1076 tech sheet just says to diode isloate the wires, which is exactly what the tech sheet says.... that's already done :) looks like this: https://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c190/freshfart/IMG_0066.jpg

i figured out about the dome light supervision already. i'm learning as i go along :)

will the 451M allow me to use the progressive lock system that i have? i'd like to keep that functionality..... i don't think the 451M has that capability.

the most i know about it is a single pulse to the door locks unlocks the drivers door, a double pulse unlocks the rest of them(and factory anti-theft disarms).

??? i wonder if i just hook up the 451M, and double-pulse the unlock button manually it will work just like the factory setup. ???

although just the drivers door has to be grounded through a different impedence resistor to unlock, i wonder why they make these tech sheets without this information....

once again, thanks for your continued help!

Progressive locks; simply programme the unit for double unlock pulse and yes use a 451m other wise your unit's lock/unlock outputs haven't enough current to get past the resistor.

cool, but not exactly what i was looking for. I was hoping there was a way to emulate the factory setup, which looks like so:

single unlock press: drivers door only
double unlock press: remaining doors and factory disarm



also, my alarm came with the antenna wire that's nice and long, but contains the valet switch on the end of it. my guess is that you run this wire from the alarm, around the windshield via the A pillars, and then drop the valet switch down by the OBD plug?

Yes you should be able to control your locks the same way you did before, the viper 5701 have individual lock/unlock buttons, so if you keep the alarm programed to single pules unlock, when you press it once it should unlock the drivers door then when you press it again it should unlock all doors, If you want all the doors to unlock with one press then you can change it to double pules unlock setting (menu 1/item 6/option 2)

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**ADVANCED MECP CERTIFIED

I have a 2008 Mazdaspeed 3 so I am familiar with the car. It was 2 years ago when I did the install so I may not remember everything.

The polarity of the door triggers is different depending on if you have a hatchback or sedan. I have a hatchback. The wires rest at ground with the doors closed and go to a (+) signal when the door is open. I diode isolated the 4 doors and connected it to the (+) door trigger input and it works fine. From what I have read, the sedan goes to an open circuit when you open a door. That is where you use the 10k resistor diagram you found. I used this method on a car about 4 years ago. Maybe it was a Mazda 6, maybe a 3....I don't remember.

The car has two different door lock circuits. One circuit goes to the switch on the door. It uses a single wire that controls both functions. It needs a resistor to activate one way, and straight ground to go the other direction.

The other circuit goes to the key cylinder in the drivers door. Two separate wires for this method, both just needing a straight ground signal. I used this method in my car. The lock wire is fairly easy. Most wiring diagrams list this as "factory alarm arm". The unlock wire works a little different. It is usually referred to "factory alarm disarm" on most tech sheets. You may notice that if you turn the key in the drivers door to unlock, it will unlock the drivers door only. Turn it to unlock a second time (or hold it, I forget) it will then do the other doors. I just hooked the unlock output directly to this wire.   My drivers door unlocks, then about 1 second later the other doors unlock. I may have put it to double pulse unlock, I don't remember. I also do not want to have 2-step unlocking. With it being a females car, you may want that feature. Adding this is a lot trickier for someone without a lot of experience.

Does the car have the OEM alarm? Roll down the drivers window, close all doors, trunk and hood and lock the car with the OEM remote. Wait 2 minutes. Reach in the drivers window and hit unlock on the door and open the door. Does the horn start beeping? If it does, you have the factory alarm. Once I know this I can give you more info on getting 2-step unlock.

yes my car is a sedan.

well for the door unlocks, i've purchased a DEI 451M and im just going to wire that up.... if it keeps the progressive lock system, great, if not, oh well. if i were keep figuring stuff out till i got it all right, it'd be installed on the 4th of never.

also, the wifey uses the key fob for all of her unlocking. i'm just going to blindly assume it's gonna work normally.

jworm: Re: the factory alarm disarm. i can't use that for my door locks. my remote start pulses that wire to disarm the factory alarm, which in turn unlocks the doors. there's no way im going to do that.

lastly, the antenna still goes all the way around the windshield and drops back down by the drivers kick, right?

advice on antenna placement?

the old remote starts didn't have the valet switch attached to them, so you just rant the wire up to the top of the windshield and ur good to go.

in this model (the 5701) the valet switch is built onto the end of the antenna.

i can't imagine that they want you to leave the valet switch sticky-taped to the headliner....

Yes they do! On the windshield will be fine! If you do not prefer to have it there, you can use an external valet switch!

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

is the antenna built into the valet switch? or is it in the wire? (my last remote start's antenna wire was just a single wire)

can't i just run it all the way around the perimter of the windshield and drop the valet switch down by the OBD port? will that cause a less than desirable range for the remote start?

Do you even have the unit yet? Based on our questions I would say no. You stick the antenna (with built in valet switch and led) to the top center of the windshield.   The antenna/led/valet switch will have 3 separate plugs coming off it. If you don't want to use the built in valet switch, then use your own and don't plug in the valet switch plug coming from the antenna assembly.

of course i have the unit.