Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2005 BMW 325i And Viper 5901

I just bought a Viper 5901 and I am looking to install it soon. But i want it so for one of the aux's it will activate the heat warming seats and the rear defroster. What are the wire colors and locations for the heated seats and the rear defroster?

Also on the Viper 5901 install guide, for the remote start pin, it has some wires that I have no clue where they go.
1. What is the difference between Starter output and Starter input?
2. What are all these Flex Relay inputs and outputs?
3. This wire is on the main harness. The door triggers. Do I have to connect all four door triggers to the same wire or is there a main door trigger wire in my car?

Thanks

First test by turning on the ignition and turning on the seat heaters and defrosters. Turn off only the ignition. If they stay on, then all you have to do is to leave them on the night before.
2005 is a changeover year. Is yours an E46 or later?
Whichever I guarantee you wont find separate relays, they're all controlled by the body management computer so if they don't stay on, you are going to have to find the wire that goes to 12v, e.g. under the seats or floor looms and again the floor loom for the rear defrost and relay them.
As for your other questions:-
1) That's an immobiliser and anti-grind circuit, not necessary BUT cut the BLACK/ blue starter wire, green to key side and violet to starter side. If you don't want to cut, simply join the violet to the BLACK/ blue starter wire.
2) RTFM which also applies to 1) above.
3) Connect the violet + sensing door trigger wire to the RED / blue puddle lamp input wire under driver's dash adjacent to the OBDll data connector. N.B. There's a thin black wire on the corner pin, that's your tach feed. DON'T use voltage sense, it's not reliable.
Please specify what model, E46/E60 etc. I wrote the book on the E46.

Here you go:-
I really ought to cut and paste previous posts!
All these at driver's side.
12v+ Constant, RED / green and RED / blue* at ignition loom.
Ignition Light Green ditto
Starter BLACK/ blue ditto
2nd. Ignition Violet ditto
Lights. Look up tech info on this site, rest of the world bar N/America uses a different system
Lock WHITE/ black driver's door entry cable in kickwell NEG.
Unlock Blue/red ditto, NEG. extend lock pulse (Programme comfort close on Viper) to close windows/roof if applicable.
Door contacts (all) RED / blue at puddle lamp under dash, POS.
Trunk contact WHITE/ brown floor loom right hand side. NEG.
Hood PURPLE / green at switch, right hand side engine bay. (Black plastic push switch)NEG.
Tach black at OBDll adjacent to puddle lamp
Trunk release, very pale Grey/green** next to brake wire which is either Blue/black or GREEN/ black*** next to trunk trigger and trunk sensor wires, level with rear of front seat, right hand floor loom.
Notes:
* Not sure of exact secondary wire but there are 2 thick reds, distribute your fused lines evenly to these.
** RED / white on Viper to relay 85, 12v+ constant to 86 and 75, 5amps fused, 30 to trunk release wire.
*** TEST TEST TEST There are multiples in these colours, you can't pick up at the brake switch, it's DATA!
By-Pass The best is still the 556UW, wire as European, no antenna loop, can't remember the car's colours but the steering column cowling is dead easy to pull off. Use the Grey Valet key, DO NOT use any other in the 556, you will have all sorts of lock and start problems if you use a regular key with the remotes. You have been warned.
Good luck and test each stage before proceeding to the next.

Ref your PM keep your posts here in case others may want to comment or give you advice.
If you have to ask what those other wires are for as I said don't do this yourself!
GWR aka status energises your by-pass which If you use the valet key should also disarm factory alarm.
The black white if auto should go to the reverse light wire, if manual to the parking brake wire.
Accessory is already connected via ign 2.

Well i decided to do it myself. If I can't get it to work then ill take it to a shop. But Im usually good at figuring these things out after some research. Can you just check that I have these wires correct.
Viper Harness - Car/Bypass Module
Ignition 1 input/output - Ignition (Green)
(87) Flex Relay input (30A Fused) - Constant 12v
Accessory Output - Accessory
Started Output (car side of the starter kill) - Starter
Starter input (Key side) - Starter Key Side
Ignition 1 Input (30A Fused) - Constant 12v
(30) Flex Relay Output - Ignition 2 (purple)
(87a) Flex Relay Input - N/A
Accessory/Starter Relay Input (30A Fused) - Constant 12v

Correct! But use don't use the Viper's acc output, use the IGN 2 output from the Viper to the Violet ACC on on the car, otherwise it won't start, it's the way the car's ignition switch is wired, where the ACC stays live on crank (applies to all BMWs) and aids in starting the car.

Thanks. But on another note. I got my bypass module today. The guy sent me the 555B instead of the 556UW. Can it still be done with the 555B? I noticed that my keypad does not fit into the plastic block/hole inside the module. Could I just flip the key around and put the actual key itself through the hole?

Also if this bypass module will work. What color is the transponder ring antenna wire?

Thanks

Send it back you asked for a 556UW, they are readily available.
As a side issue what key did you try? The regular with the lock/unlock buttons?
Two wires, thin come from the antenna ring around the ignition switch.

Is it possible to use the 555b or do i have to use the 556uw? Also i used the standard key with unlock, lock, and pop trunk.

howie ll wrote:

Correct! But use don't use the Viper's acc output, use the IGN 2 output from the Viper to the Violet ACC on on the car, otherwise it won't start, it's the way the car's ignition switch is wired, where the ACC stays live on crank (applies to all BMWs) and aids in starting the car.

Also I just noticed you said use don't use. Which one haha?

That is actually funny you mention that. A friend of mine was helping me install an remote start in a 3 series and the car would not start. I think there were 2 purple wires. He made the mistake of having set one as acc when it really needed ignition and the car would not turn on. I initially thought it the bypass but it was exactly what howie mentioned.

So on the Viper wire harness is this what it should look like?

Pink (+) Ignition 1 Input/Output - Green
Orange (+) Accessory Output - N/A
Pink (-) 200mA Ignition 1 Output - Violet

Is it worth answering you? I've TWICE ALREADY told you to ONLY use the grey Valet key, you will have all sorts of problems using the regular key, also I already said ONLY a 556UW If you use pink - 200mA output you will cook your Viper! How is a 200mA line supposed to power a circuit drawing at least 20amps? Please refer AGAIN to your instructions and programming, especially where on how to obtain 2nd ignition. Since this product hasn't yet appeared in Europe, and it won't until they sort out the remote issues, perhaps Enice who has vast experience with these units can explain because since you either don't listen OR aren't competent enough to install this yourself, I'm losing it with you.

The reason I have been having all these questions is because I bought this from ebay and the installation directions were not included for some reason. All I have is the Quick Reference Install Guide and Owners manual.

I found the installation directions on line.

Pink (+) Ignition 1 Input/Output - Green
Orange (+) Accessory Output - N/A
Pink/White (+) Ignition 2 Flex Relay Output - Violet

Reason i didnt get this earlier is because the quick reference guide only said Flex Relay Output.

OK, don't do ANYTHING now. Wait until you've started, then TEST the functions of all the car wiring before you do anything.
You are over analysing, this causes anxiety and failure. I've learned over the years to stop worrying and just get on with the job.
Addenda:
a) I might be wrong about the brake wire, check for a wire that gives you 12v+ when ignition is on and brake pedal is depressed, it's data on European cars but according to Directwire AND Bulldog*, I might be wrong.
b) There is a BLACK/ white on the Viper that has to sense ground before it enables the R/S. On a manual this is the parking brake wire, dissemble top of centre console and gearshift surround, this will enable access to base of parking brake. On an auto it's the reverse light wire, blue/brown I THINK. TEST.
*Bulldog has free to the public very good wiring info on this car, just go to their website.

Well before I even start the install ill take a couple hours, dissemble the glove box and look over all the wiring. Make sure the diagrams I have been looking at are correct.
a) The brake wire color is Blue/Red according to a couple different wiring diagrams. I'm going to double check it like you said to also.
b) Do I have to use this BLACK/ white wire?

There are two trunk wires; RED / white Aux/Trunk Output and a Blue Trunk Pin/Instant Trigger Input (N/C or N/O). I am assuming that I use the RED / white wire to release the trunk hatch. But what exactly is the Blue Trunk Pin/Instant Trigger Input for? The manual doesn't give a good explanation.

There is also two wires just like the trunk ones but these ones are for the Door Trigger Inputs. One Violet POS and a Green NEG N/C or N/O. Which one do I use?

Thanks

The black white has to be grounded! On a manual this goes to the parking brake. When pulled up, it's switched to ground. On an auto I go to the reverse light, more of an anti theft precaution than anything else since again, the reverse light sits on ground, enabling the remote start. If a naughty gets into your car and tries to drive away, pulling shifter from park to drive will enable reverse shutting down the R/S. If you have an auto, just ground it. DEI recommend a switch on it to disable it when the vehicle goes into service but that's up to you.
RED / white goes to a relay to enable the trunk release.
Bluegoes to the WHITE/ brown wire which is the trunk trigger.
Violet pos. to RED / blue at the puddle lamp ignore the green and dome supervision isn't required.
NOTE my earlier comments, I've already told you all of this.

Just going to show you everything I have for the connections. Just make sure if its right if you can.

Main Harness
RED / white 200mA Aux/Trunk Output - Grey/Brown
Red 12v - RED / Blue (12v)
Brown Siren Output - Red siren (ground black)
WHITE/ Brown Parking Light Isolated Wire - N/A
Black Ground - Ground
Violet Door Trigger Point - RED / Blue
Blue Trunk Pin/Instant Trigger Input - WHITE/ Brown
Green Door Trigger Input - N/A
BLACK/ White Dome Light - N/A
WHITE/ Blue r/s /Turbo Timer - N/A
White Parking Light Output - (L) Grey/Purp (R) Grey/Yel

Remote Start Heavy Harness
Pink Ignition 1 In/Out - Green
RED / White - RED / Blue (12v)
Orange Accessory Output - N/A
Violet Starter Output - BLACK/ Blue Car side
Green Starter Input - BLACK/ Blue Key side
Red - RED / Blue (12v)
Pink/White Ignition 2 Flex Relay Out - Purple
Pink/Black Flex Relay Input - N/A
RED / Black - RED / Blue (12v)
Door Lock Harness
Blue Unlock Output - Yel/Red
Green Lock Output Yel/Red

H2 Harness
Light GREEN/ Black OEM Alarm Dis Out - WHITE/ Black
ORANGE / Black Aux 4 - N/A
GREEN / WHITE OEM Alarm Arm Out - Blue/Red
Violet/Black Aux 3 - N/A
WHITE/ Black Aux 2 - N/A
WHITE/ Violet Aux 1 - N/A
Grey/Black Diesel - N/A
BROWN / Black Honk Horn - PURPLE / Blue
Violet/White Tach - Black

Dark Blue Status Output - Blue Bypass
Pink/White Flex Relay Control Out - N/A
Orange Accessory Out - N/A
Purple Starter Out - N/A
Pink Ignition 1 Out - N/A
Grey Hood Pin In - PURPLE / Green
Blue/White 2nd status/rear defrost - Heated seats/rear defrost
Brown Brake - Blue/Red
BLACK/ White Neutral Safety - Ground

Main Harness Red to white trunk trigger a relay to power the trunk release wire, which is grey/light green. I explained that to you ages ago.
Don't wire the factory alarm and disarm wires, instead take lock and unlock to them, also extend lock via comfort close, that will enable window close on arming.
Ignore the red yellow.

In all the wire diagrams I have gotten (directwire, the12volt, ext.) says that the trunk release trigger (AUX/Trunk Release) is grey/brown so im guessing that it is correct.

What is this part about extending lock via comfort close. What do you mean by that?

And why am I ignoring the RED / yellow wire which is the lock/unlock wire?

You're guessing on a BMW young lad! Oh dear! posted_image

The unit has the capability of sustaining the lock pulse when armed, this way it will roll your windows up upon arming! Howard can clarify for you, you really should follow his advice, he is the man when it comes to European!

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

Wow this is crazy. I hope it turns out ok

Im sorry, but this statement is the best part

"The reason I have been having all these questions is because I bought this from ebay and the installation directions were not included for some reason. All I have is the Quick Reference Install Guide and Owners manual."

X2 with mike!

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

Times 3 for me I just didn't want to comment on product ESPECIALLY electronic purchased from FleaBay.
The trunk release is POS., needs a relay from the RED / white and on a 2005 I did all of three weeks ago it was grey with a very light, hard to see green stripe. Look at the programming on either owner's manual or install sheet it does mention comfort or total close, also going to the lock wires I suggested will work better, also I've done a German/Russian market car with factory alarm, it never came into the equation.

Oh and did I mention the diodes required on the trunk light feeds or the lock/unlock wires, belatedly now suggested also by DEI?

Just want to double check that I am buying the right diodes.

https://www.newark.com/jsp/displayProduct.jsp?sku=18C8911&CMP=KNC-G10000683&HBX_OU=50&HBX_PK=1N4001

And would a local pep boys have these or home depot?

Thanks

those look right. you need higher current ones such as 4amps for the indicator lights i think? howie can clarify this.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

No 1N4004 is the safest, buy 5 2 for the trunk lights, 2 for the locks and one for the trunk release relay.
Tedmund he isn't doing indicators, I'll email what the indicator setup looks like, 4 x 1N5404s for the front and backs and 2 x 1N4004s for the side. Since don't seem able could you post the pictures for our friend?
RED / yellow feeds to trunk lights, diode inline, bands towards light, lock and unlock wires inline diodes, bands towards alarm, trunk relay, diode across 85 and 86 with band towards 86 when 86 is pos. side of relay coil.

these pictures are from Howie, he couldnt post them.

https://img685.imageshack.us/i/prepbmwtrunkreleaserela.jpg/

https://img34.imageshack.us/i/bmwindicatorlightprep.jpg/

[https://img251.imageshack.us/i/diodetorearlampfeedfeed.jpg/

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

A quick Q about one of your earlier reply's:

1) That's an immobiliser and anti-grind circuit, not necessary BUT cut the BLACK/ blue starter wire, green to key side and violet to starter side. If you don't want to cut, simply join the violet to the BLACK/ blue starter wire.

What is the difference between the two ways. Cause I would rather not cut any factory wires but If it's better to then I will.

And you said use a valet key. How much do they run at the dealership?

That's up to you. Initially just connect the violet to the starter wire and see how it goes. Don't loose the green in case you decide to join it up later.
If used, 2 functions:-
a) It acts as an extra immobiliser if the alarm is on.
b) Acts as an anti-grind during remote start.
The Valet key is about $30 in the UK.

At my shop we worked on a 3 Series today. Those cars are very easy. Had an issue with a 555B module that did not work for us but then used a 556u that worked with no issue. My question for Howie is why the diodes. Our diagrams dont show diodes that need to be used but would like to know your input.

Eric, the trunk courtesy lights get a spike down them when you lock the arm, lock the doors, this triggers the alarm, it happens about 10% of the time, naturally the first time I did one it happened. "Look the trunk's shut but the siren triggers off when I arm it with NO trunk ajar warning!"
The answer is inline diodes (4004) with the bands towards the lights, UK Fords from 2005 suffer the same problem. Diode required on the power feed for EVERY courtesy light!
I THINK the circumstances are something to do with the way the car's body control CPUs react depending on their state when you arm it.
That's why I've ALWAYS dioded the lock outputs from low current flip flop alarm outputs, especially when feeding a CPU with sleeper circuits rather than simple lock relay triggers, for obvious reasons one would have noticed this earlier on Euro Cars with their gimmick laden circuitry, Japanese cars are relatively immune to this but I notice DEI now tell you to do this.
Told you so about the 556U, hope you wired it without the loop and did you use the Valet key, also was I right about the trunk release, grey/light green, pos. going?

Good to know about the info...like GEM modules and certain GM vehicles and even a 2008 commander we did.

To tell you the truth i did not know which wire my installer used but we got everything behind the glove box. Also the 556u method i have always used without the loop with german cars so no issue at all there and customer brought a valet key which cost about $60 US dollars. BTW did you ever use a 555B because that thing did not work for us.

On a side note our compustar unit has a dedicated output that can be used for trunk release so we did not need a relay. Just changed the output setting from the compustar positive parking light to positive trunk release.

Obviously Compustar has a built in relay, I've already suggested that one to DEI, make every aux 6 wire, yeah right!
Never used a 555b, have used a 555f on both Toyota and Ford, chucked it both times and went for chip removal because I was installing a UK Cat 1 with two immobiliser cuts anyway. Apparently others here have also had problems with that unit. Ref Ford GEM modules. They've changed them on recent UK Fords to include the fuse box but they still effectively work the same way. The Euro Focus diverged away from the US model in 05, but next year they become the same again.
Can't comment on GM because Euro GM is more similar (at least the electronics, ignition, injection systems, comfort close etc.) to VW than anything from the US.

this is deep. haha

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"dont ground out!"

howie ll wrote:

No 1N4004 is the safest, buy 5 2 for the trunk lights, 2 for the locks and one for the trunk release relay.
Tedmund he isn't doing indicators, I'll email what the indicator setup looks like, 4 x 1N5404s for the front and backs and 2 x 1N4004s for the side. Since don't seem able could you post the pictures for our friend?
RED / yellow feeds to trunk lights, diode inline, bands towards light, lock and unlock wires inline diodes, bands towards alarm, trunk relay, diode across 85 and 86 with band towards 86 when 86 is pos. side of relay coil.

Don't really understand what you mean when you said "bands towards alarm, trunk relay, diode across 85 and 86 with band towards 86 when 86 is pos. side of relay coil."

And with comfort close. Your said "also extend lock via comfort close," Does this mean to extend the lock wire to the lock wire on the viper brain?

Are you for real?
DON'T INSTALL THIS YOURSELF!!!

kfarrell817 wrote:

[QUOTE=howie ll] No 1N4004 is the safest, buy 5 2 for the trunk lights, 2 for the locks and one for the trunk release relay.
Tedmund he isn't doing indicators, I'll email what the indicator setup looks like, 4 x 1N5404s for the front and backs and 2 x 1N4004s for the side. Since don't seem able could you post the pictures for our friend?
RED / yellow feeds to trunk lights, diode inline, bands towards light, lock and unlock wires inline diodes, bands towards alarm, trunk relay, diode across 85 and 86 with band towards 86 when 86 is pos. side of relay coil.

BAND, means when you look at the diodes, there is a cathode and anode side. the silver band is very noticable, so follow Howies instructions. 85 and 86 are the terminals of the relay.

when you said, extend the lock wire to the lock wire on the viper brain, i had a good laugh. the lock wire on the car is used for comfort closure as well. a single pulse to this wire will lock doors, when the pulse is exteneded for 12 seconds, windows close(roll up). vice versa for unlock wire. But IMO, if you have to ask questions like this, I suggest you have a shop install it, afterall you dont want to damage a bmw.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Oh my goodness becky look at the diode, it is so big. It must stop some type of feedback or something.

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"dont ground out!"

I called my dealership for a valet key price. They said they don't make them for my model bmw? Only the regular key with the 3 buttons. Can I use the regular key or this guy at the dealership lieing to me?

He's probably trying to stop you from wrecking your car! posted_image

Really, you should seriously consider geting this professionally installed, bmw's really aren't the cars you wanna start off with, unless, well, you have a big bank account, if you do, by all means, Proceed!

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

So do they actually make a valet key for my car model or not?

The stealership is lying, EVERY BMW of your model came new with 2 regular and 1 grey Valet key. I've seen them in the owners book on new BMWs!
The first E46 I did was a Russian owned German market model, the guy lived here in the UK and he came back from a London dealership the next day with the Valet key!

I started the install today. But I have a quick question about two of the diodes. You said "lock and unlock wires inline diodes, bands towards alarm". Which way is the alarm? Towards to General Module or going away from it?

I really can't understand this question, surely you know where your alarm is? The lock/unlock green and blue wires plug into the alarm with a white plug. That's the end the bands face. Sure I've already said all this ad nauseum.
Do me a favour, if you're anywhere near Pittsburgh, contact Chris Wallace via this site and have him professionally install this for you.
Every time you ask one of these questions, the less faith I have in your abilities. It's a nice car, please don't make it a very expensive car.

i agree, the questions seem very simple and straightforward. we give you info but you dont seem to comply and understand, afterall we try to make it easy on you.

hey howie, i saw that security vehicle, i bet the electrical is wrapped in that "convoluted loom" but instead of being plastic its metal for added security.

i odnt think you need an alarm/rs on that, im sure no one has the guts to steal it ahah.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

I just can't see it on our tiny roads, though I've seen stretched Hummers! I liked the optional remote weapon system for the roof, eat that double parked taxi!

I tried finding the rear defroster wire today and I couldn't find it. I tested all the wires coming from the back of the climate control unit and had no luck. Any recommendations?

Use a DMM to find the wire that goes hot at the back window when you turn on the HRW, trace it to the front and relay it from the aux output you choose. It probably comes from the module behind the glove box but unless you can directly access this my method is faster.

Can i test it without the 556u installed yet and just put the key in the ignition

There is only 1 wire icant locate. Violet door trigger input. I cant find the RED / blue wire.

It's RED / blue and look where I told you ages ago to mount everything, in front of the OBD ll is a puddle or under dash courtesy lamp, there. Why don't you read the previous posts? How many times do we have to tell you?
I've just noticed I told you before how to find the defrost posted_image

Yes to trying the system with the key in the ignition.

I went to turn on my A/C and no air was coming out. Then I tried the Heat and that didn't work either. I didn't splice any wires so that couldn't be the problem. And I was in a rush and I didn't get to check the fuses yet. But if it isn't a fuse problem, what else could be causing this?

Does have this installed professionally ring any bells? Check your fuses, you've tested by applying power or ground without using a meter to TEST.

I finally got around to getting the spare plastic key. I am trying to install the 556uw but I have a question. Which wire do I need to splice into? There is a blk / YELLOW and a blk/grey wire. The grey one is giving me a 2.6 volt constant and the yellow one gives a 2.6 when u turn the key. I have a feeling. That I need to tie into the yellow one but I want to make sure.