chrsall troubleshooting
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=119582
Printed Date: May 16, 2024 at 12:51 AM
Topic: chrsall troubleshooting
Posted By: specs
Subject: chrsall troubleshooting
Date Posted: January 24, 2010 at 10:26 AM
Hello all, installed a Directed CHRSALL RS-CHLED 2-way kit into a 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab last night and need some help troubleshooting. Install wiring went as follows (as per enclosed Directed instructions): This kit uses a CHALL Chrysler interface and Xpress start R/S Using relay 1. Ignition plug 12v (blue/red) to 86 & 87 2. Ignition plug starter+ (YELLOW /GREEN) to 30 3. From remote start module, start - (pink/black) to 85 4. Ignition plug Mux (PURPLE / brown) to WHITE/ black on CHALL module 5. Horn (purple), Hood pin (white) and Parking light (brown) to their respective vehicle connections from r/s module. 6. CHTH2 T-harness and D2D harness from r/s to CHALL Programmed CHALL and remote, door locks work fine but problem lies in trying to start....vehicle goes through the motions of attempting remote start but when it gets to turning over the engine, starter solenoid just clicks repeatedly (sounds like a dead battery). Seems like there is not a full 12 volts getting to the starter..... maybe something to do with the way the relay is wired? Thanks in advance for any and all help, much appreciated!
Replies:
Posted By: specs
Date Posted: January 24, 2010 at 5:26 PM
anyone?
Posted By: yimke
Date Posted: January 24, 2010 at 10:56 PM
Charge your battery, otherwise did you even program the bypasss chip?
Posted By: specs
Date Posted: January 25, 2010 at 8:27 AM
Hello, battery is fully charged, vehicle starts fine with key....bypass and r/s fully programmed, just sounds like the starter is receiving less than the full 12 volts req'd to crank as the solenoid just clicks rapidly. I took the 12V source from the ignition plug (blue/red) as per the enclosed Directed wiring diagram, but I notice the wiring diagrams for this vehicle (2006 Dodge 1500) on this site recommend taking 12V battery from an alternate source. Any thoughts on this welcome....
Posted By: yimke
Date Posted: January 25, 2010 at 12:44 PM
If you had an issue not grabbing the right 12V wire your car would have a blown fuse, I usually grab 12V in the driver kick at a blue plug above the giant wire mess. I think it is a WHITE/ tan 10ga wire.
After looking over your post move carefully and looking at the CHALL instructions I think I found your problem.
1. Your blue/red wire which is pin 1 in the 5 pin harness at the ignition switch should ONLY go to 86 on the relay. This wire should read 12V during crank, IGN, ACC, and resting.
2. Pin 2 of your same 5 pin harness at the ignition switch should not be connected since there is NO + starter for this vehicle.
3. Pin 4 of the same 5 pin harness should be your MUX wire. It is the PURPLE / brown. You HAVE to cut this wire in half. The ignition switch cut half to pin 87A on the relay. And the car side of that wire to pin 30 on the relay.
4. WHITE/ black on the CHALL harness should go to the final pin of the relay which is 87.
5. Last your blue/white wire from your remote starter also known as the (Ground when running wire) should be connected to pin 85. This is what triggers your relay when you are trying to remote start it.
That SHOULD get your starter working. As for your parking lights/hood/horn are they working perspective? Because the colors you mentioned are unfamiliar to me. However I could not find a manual for the Xstart unit you are using.
Posted By: specs
Date Posted: January 25, 2010 at 2:31 PM
Yimke, thanks very much for your reply.....spoke to one of the techs at Directed's help line, and he suggested that the install instructions may be incorrect. Advised me to try taking 12v from source other than blue/red at ignition harness, so I'll try the white /tan in driver kick that you suggest. The parking lights/hood/horn are all functioning as they should, and the way the relay is wired is exactly as shown in enclosed instructions for vehicles with a positive starter wire...years 2004-2006. There is another page in the instructions titled "Vehicles 2007 and higher, without a positive starter wire" Understand from your post above #2 that this vehicle has no + starter? Possible I am using the wrong application in the instructions? I couldn't find a copy of this install manual anywhere online to refer you too.....would it be helpful if I could scan and attach? Thanks
Posted By: yimke
Date Posted: January 26, 2010 at 9:50 AM
Your relay wiring description is totally different from what I was trying to describe to you. Please verify that is the same as what I wrote above or looks like this is the install guide
CHALL install guide
As for the 12V at blue/red pin 1 you can leave it connected to the relay. As long as your main 12V wire from the brain is connected to the WHITE/ tan wire I described you should be fine. Because if you are using + parking lights the blue/red wire can only supply 20A, which is not safe IMO. Just better to grab it at the blue plug which can handle above 50A.
Posted By: specs
Date Posted: January 26, 2010 at 10:54 PM
Yimke, thks again for getting back to me on this issue......yeah, I know the relay wiring that I'm describing is totally different than what xpresskit shows for their stand alone CHALL module. Don't think I'm permitted to upload an image at my present rookie member status, but I can certainly e-mail you or anyone else a copy of the install wiring diagram if you'd be willing to have a look at it. You mentioned in your last post "as long as your main 12V wire from the brain is connected to....", the instructions don't call for any 12V connection to the remote starter itself, the only 12V battery feed is to the relay 86 & 87. Also, there is no cutting of the Mux wire, it is shown to go directly to WHITE/ black of the CHALL module. Anyway, had another go at it tonight, double checked all wiring/connections but moved the 12V off of the ignition plug to the WHITE/ tan wire you mentioned but still no luck....and I was mistaken in the post above when I said that it sounded like the starter solenoid clicking over when it tried to r/s, it's actually a relay of some sort located directly underneath the underhood fuse panel. Vehicle attempts to r/s but when the starter should be cranking, this relay just rapidly clicks....cranks fine when started with key, and no problem doing a remote take-over when running, so the bypass would appear to be working properly. Starting to think I should disregard enclosed instructions and rewire the relay the way you illustrated above! Thanks again for all your time and effort...
Posted By: specs
Date Posted: January 28, 2010 at 7:47 AM
Directed tech help now recommending flashing the CHALL (10.2) and firmware update for the xstart module....will post back with results.
Posted By: yimke
Date Posted: January 29, 2010 at 10:47 AM
Updates help sometimes, but usually not on older vehicles like this, but it is worth a shot. It definitely would be helpful if I had a instruction manual for the XKEY. Can you send me a photocopy of the wiring diagram via e-mail to my work. I will be there around 2pm Central time.
PM'd E-mail address.
Posted By: yimke
Date Posted: January 30, 2010 at 9:07 PM
So after looking at this diagram you sent me, i find it weird that there is no brake input, or IGN wires run, even though in the CHALL d2d instructions you have to connect those.
So, don't even use the relay because it is not needed for your vehicle. There is a + start wire, but it is not required for remote start, so remote any wires connected to that. So basically pull the relay out and anything you had attached to it.
Plus you are only pulling 2A instead of 20A from the IGN cylinder. So what I fear has happened is when you wired it up originally you popped the fuse for that 2A lead. So if you have a multi-meter, set it to continuity and start checking both fuse boxes for a fuse that doesn't have continuity.
Make sure you cut the loop on the Xstart module.
You're right the MUX wire should be connected to the WHITE/ black on the CHALL, but MAKE SURE YOU SOLDER THIS WIRE. It is very important that you do because any increased resistance because of a faulty connection can cause issues. And I usually try to make my connection as close as possible to the plugs so I know exactly which one I am grabbing.
Also, your parking light (brown) wire is connected to WHITE/ light green at the switch using a relay with an 1130 ohm resistor?
If not the relay will be as follows. This will not show if it works unless you actually get the vehicle to remote start.
85- (Brown off XKEY module)
86- 12v constant (WHITE/ tan at blue plug)
87- To WHITE/ green at the switch cut in in half and this will go to the car side, but put the 1130 ohm resistor in series.
30- This goes to the CAR SIDE of the wire of the WHITE/ green you cut in half at the switch.
87A- This goes to the SWITCH SIDE of the wire of the WHITE/ green you cut in half at the switch.
Just out of curiosity, is you Black and red wires from the XStart module connected to anything?
Posted By: specs
Date Posted: January 30, 2010 at 9:46 PM
Hi yimke, will try what you suggest above when I get access to the truck over the next couple days....thank you! As far as your questions go....no, the red and black from the xstart module are not connected, also I have the brown parking light running direct to the WHITE/ green at switch....so I need to set that up as you describe using a relay and 1130 ohm resistor?? Going to send you a copy of the other wiring diagram included with kit (says this is for 2007 and up vehicles WITHOUT positive starter wire)....this sounds more like what you're describing above only it doesn't tap into the Mux wire either.Let me know what you think.....specs
Posted By: yimke
Date Posted: January 31, 2010 at 2:28 PM
Ignore my last post on the relay. I actually looked it up at work and 07 up rams have no + start wire. So basically leave it the way we had just verify the wiring of the relay. As for your parking lights, this will not affect the remote starting, but it might not go on when it is. From my understanding of the diagram the brown is just a negative trigger. Since the ohm resistance vary from each dodge/chrysler I would assume you would have to do it the way I described, but I could be wrong at it might automatically correct for the resistance from the MUX wire. Just make sure the MUX wire is soldered as stated above.
Posted By: specs
Date Posted: January 31, 2010 at 9:26 PM
So if I'm understanding you correctly, leave the start relay in, wired as the diagram says? Or are you advising me to wire the relay the way you suggested in your post on the first page? Thanks again for all your time on this...
Posted By: yimke
Date Posted: February 01, 2010 at 12:11 PM
Leave it in and wire it how it says in the diagram 2004-2006. But change the power source to the WHITE/ tan in the blue plug for your 86 and 87 pins. 30 goes to the + starter which is pin 2 of the ignition switch. Finally pink/black goes to 85.
I think you have it wired up this way, but just clarifying. You should hear this relay click whenever you try to remote start it. If not, measure the pink/black wire it should read 12v at rest and ground or 0v when you press remote start. I know some units had bad outputs of this wire.
I think your clicking of the relays when it is supposed to start actually might be a trouble code, so count how many times it clicks. I am guessing it is either your hood pin is touching ground, or the loop is not cut for automatic transmission mode.
Posted By: specs
Date Posted: February 01, 2010 at 4:20 PM
Will do, this is the way it is wired already but will change power source, re-check all connections and measure pink/blk at both rest and r/s. Also, loop is cut and will double check hood pin....I'll report back if successful or not, thks
Posted By: bikewiz
Date Posted: October 10, 2010 at 11:45 PM
i assumed you found the problem and didn't post the solution?
I've got an 2006 Ram diesel with a python 991(viper 5902) and a CHALL bypass. Everything works except it wont crank the truck over on remote start. Set the python to auto trans mode, 15 sec start delay. Wire the CHALL up with a CHTH2 harness using W2W as I've heard D2D has issues at times. Have a relay wired using the instructions exactly for the MUX wire.
Weird thing is I can start the truck with the key, enable remote start, and then pull the key out and the truck stays running.
When the system tries to start the truck, i get 12v to the blue/red + starter wire that I connected to at the ignition switch, but no cranking. The only thing I do notice is the check engine light flashes when the system tries to start the truck.
Any ideas?
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