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viper 5910

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=119686
Printed Date: May 14, 2024 at 4:00 AM


Topic: viper 5910

Posted By: lsumykul
Subject: viper 5910
Date Posted: January 27, 2010 at 10:36 AM

I am installing the Viper 5901 LC3 on my 2008 f150 supercrew 5.4L V8. The Truck has stock keyless entry but NO stock alarm. I have the keyless entry working as well as the alarm as of now.

I had a few questions before i completed the installation i wanted to clarify and make sure the wires were even necessary. I cant find much information online and most of the info conflicts with other info i have found.

1. Where is the (H1/4) Light Flash Isolation Wire in the truck and is this necessary?

2. I found where it says the (H1/9) (-)200mA Dome Light Output is but it was not working, any ideas?

3. Is the (H1/12) (-)500mA Gound When Armed Output necessary, if so, where can i locate a good wire to use for this?

4. Where/Color is the (H3/2) (+)Fused (30A) Ignitiong 2 / Flex Relay Input and is this necessary?

5. Where is the (H3/3) Accessory Output? Says it controls the AC unit.

6. Where is the (H3/6) (+)(30A) Fused Ignition 1 Relay Input?

7. Do I need to use (H3/7) (+) Ignition 2 Flew Relay Output?

8. Do I need the (H3/9) (+)(30A) Fused Accessory/Starter Relay Input?

9. Where is the Neutral Safety Switch Input? Necessary?

10. Tachometer Input Wire, location, necessary?

11. Where is the (-)200mA 2nd Status/Rear Defogger wire?

Some other possibly helpful information:

-Manual AC, No rear sliding window, Auto headlights converted to HID's.

Thank you in advance for your help, i know its a lot!!




Replies:

Posted By: moonliter
Date Posted: January 27, 2010 at 12:14 PM

1. Where is the (H1/4) Light Flash Isolation Wire in the truck and is this necessary?
No, if you use (H1/11) connected to the brown (+) parking lights at the gray plug by gas pedal. You may have to use a relay if the parking lights draw more than 10 amp!
2. I found where it says the (H1/9) (-)200mA Dome Light Output is but it was not working, any ideas?
How did you check this with ?
3. Is the (H1/12) (-)500mA Gound When Armed Output necessary, if so, where can i locate a good wire to use for this?
No, u don't need this
4. Where/Color is the (H3/2) (+)Fused (30A) Ignitiong 2 / Flex Relay Input and is this necessary?
If this truck has no ignition 2 wire then U don't have to use this
5. Where is the (H3/3) Accessory Output? Says it controls the AC unit.
BLACK/ green wire at ignition switch
6. Where is the (H3/6) (+)(30A) Fused Ignition 1 Relay Input?
Should be able to connect (H3/6) & (H3/9) & (H3/2) to lt.GREEN/ purple (only rated 20 amp at the fuse)
7. Do I need to use (H3/7) (+) Ignition 2 Flew Relay Output?
I don't think this truck has ignition 2 wire, U have to check
8. Do I need the (H3/9) (+)(30A) Fused Accessory/Starter Relay Input?
Of course, where U think (H3/3) accessory & (H3/4) starter outputs come from ?
9. Where is the Neutral Safety Switch Input? Necessary?
Ground this wire if this truck is an automatic
10. Tachometer Input Wire, location, necessary?
I believe this truck works very well on voltage sense. 

                                                                                          





Posted By: lsumykul
Date Posted: January 27, 2010 at 1:42 PM

1. i did connect the brown parking lights wire, so i will not hook up the light flash isolation wire.

2. Checked the dome light wire with a test like and opening and closing the doors, also just ended up testing it with the wire connected...used black and blue wire...any ideas?

3. will not use, thanks.

4. dont think i have a ignition 2 wire but if i do ill use this, thanks.

5. got it, thanks.

6. When you explain this answer, i just wanted to clarify what you meant, you said i "should" be able to connect all three of these wires you listed to the green and purple wire, correct? if this is correct, why wouldnt i be able to if you dont mind explaining.

7. ill check just like the other ignition 2 wire.

8. sorry, the wording after looking at this stuff for a while looks like spanish, which i dont understand lol.  just to clarify, a constant 12v for this?

9. will ground it, thats what i thought just wanted to clarify, thanks.

10. So i can not use as long as it starts up fine and runs correctly is what i get from you explanation. thanks.

11. i noticed you didnt respond to number 11 but i assume i can just tap into the one behind the defroster switch, given it works when tested.

Thank  you very much for helping me out, i greatly appreciate all your knowledge...i know i may come across not quite intelligent about this stuff but its mainly that remote starters scare me and i dont want to have to back track due to a mistake. 





Posted By: lsumykul
Date Posted: January 27, 2010 at 1:49 PM
one more quick question, on the 5-pin remote start aux output, is this necessary to hook up?

1st wire - (-)200mA flex relay control output
2nd - (-)200mA accessory output
3rd - (-)200mA starter output
4th - (-)200mA ignition 1 output
5th - (-)200mA status output




Posted By: dasbogie
Date Posted: January 27, 2010 at 2:23 PM
no




Posted By: lsumykul
Date Posted: January 27, 2010 at 2:39 PM
well it says in my bypass manual that i need to hook up the status input from the module to the remote start negative (-) status output...would that be #5 on the 5-pin remote start aux output? or would it be elsewhere?




Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: January 27, 2010 at 3:45 PM
it's the blue/white wire from the starter! Also called deffoger output!

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5





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