Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 1999 Dodge Grand Caravan, Viper 5902

I am having a viper 5902 installed by best buy, I work there so I get a 20% discount on labor. I was wondering if my Dodge Grand Caravan 99 needs a bypass module and if the wiring diagram is different the the standard Caravan. Also is there a way to wire the defrost up to the unit so I can activate rear defrost with the remote and regular defrost. Let me know if there is anything else that will help, thanks

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

no the wiring is not different from the two.

does not need a bypass.

and the viper should have a dedicated output for defroster

wiring is identical, no bypass required.

use the 2nd defrost outout from the unit, and have it pulse 10 seconds after start.

how come you dont pick up the unit and just DIY? save yourself a few bucks, and we're all willing to help.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

how difficult is it to do myself? does it require a bitwriter to setup? I do not want to screw up my car, but yet I am willing to learn how to do stuff on my car too. I got the alarm for 200, I work for Best buy, and I can order viper stuff discounted like crazy!! Is it simply tapping into the wires listed on the diagram, like cutting a space in the coating and then hooking the wire to it? if thats the case I may do it myself, the only thing is the agreement for getting it so cheap says you have to have it professionally installed, so I am not sure

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

also, is there a way to have leds hooked up to the battery, and have the ability to activate using the aux remote button on the unit, cause that would be kick ass, lol

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

if you know how to use a DMM and have some patience, you can do it.

and yes, using the aux channel to trigger a relay for the leds is just an addon. if you get all parts first, its just a matter of a step at a time.

you dont need a bitwriter. most functions can be changed via remotes in programming.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

I have a question, why would a person use a DMM if you have the battery unpugged, wouldn't there be no voltage to read, or does it read the resistance of the wire. I noticed in the wiring diagram for my dodge 99 grand caravan it has 1 wire for the door locks and requires a resistor for the other wires connected to it, and some kind of relay, where can I pick up relays, and how would I set up the resistors? I may just have them do it cause I would hate to ruin my electrical system and not have a car, but I would love to learn how to do this on my own and have the ability to maybe do other systems for people. How much are multimeters and where can I get one, I mean if that is getting close to the cost of installation I might as well have a best buy do it for me. its 199.99 plus a 20% discount, so 159.99, but then they always add on crap to make it go up, they usually say, it took 3 hours longer so we have to charge you an extra 19.99 for ever 30 minutes.

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

also on top of that, how hard is it to wire a window module in, the guy at Best Buy said it would take him like an extra 2 hours to add that in, 90 bucks worth of install, and how do you tap into the aux ports on viper, also is there a way to adjust sensitivy of the shock sensor through the remote on the 5902?

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

you can get the relays at best buy they have them in the install bay. That van is not difficult to do r/s on. The worst part was getting the door lock wire. If you look at the bottom of the bcm it's the plug on the left. I unbolted the unit so i could lift it up a little bit and disconnect that plug to get at the wire. If I recall correctly there are 2 wires that are close to the same color as what is listed as the door lock wire. Make sure you test it and verify. 5902 should come with a 451m which is dei's doorlock relay(2 in 1). You will have to solder in a resistor of the correct value for lock and unlock.

well they say to disconnect the batt, but you need it to verify the wires.

a dmm will cost you 25bucks, a relay and harness 5-10bucks, and multipack of resistors 5bucks.

wiring in a window module is easy if you know the oclour of the wires and what you are testing for. you will need to open up the driver side door panel to gain access to all the motor wires.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

so you installed yours in a caravan? I might do it by myself, but the only thing is it says since I am getting it at such a cheap price that It requires professional installation, so I am not real sure what do to, I do not know if viper wants receipts of the installation or anything

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

is a DMM like this alright? Ebay It doesnt have a brand, but I would have to learn how to use one, I do not get why you need one, like the diagram doesnt say if the wire is hot or not, is it a matter of hooking the meter up to it, and then using the function of the car to varify that that wire is the correct one? thats the only way I can think of, then label that wire, and do all the wires so you can then hook it all up after that? I am just worried that I will screw something up an make my car f-ed up, should I use posi-tabs, or solder the wires or some other methode? can I end up frying anything if I do it wrong?

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

here is some info on your caravan:

https://www.alertautomotive.com/diagrams/diagrams.asp
look for you caravans wiring diagram, yours even shows some pics as to the location of things.

here is the install manual:
https://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/OG/Viper/G5902V%202009-07web2.pdf

im installing a viper 5901 in my truck soon as the ups man shows up. Ive gotten lots of good info from the guys on here!

darn it, gave you the owners manual, sorry.

here is the intallation manual for the 5901. same as 5902, just different remote.
https://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/IG/Viper/N5702V_2008_08web.pdf

have you installed anything before? thanks for the info, the main thing that confuses me is the relays for the locks and lights

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

i've installed an old avital, and an old clifford alarm in the past. this will be my first remote start/alarm. been doing my homework, it shouldn't be too bad....famous last words...lol!

I am confused a bit when reading the manual, it seem like there are more wires coming out of the viper module then I have wires in the car to connect to, ha ha

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

are you using solder to install your alarm?

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

I am going to solder everything. Pretty sure i have all of the wiring figured out, see how it goes.

you're right, there are lots of wires...but you wont be using all of them.

let me know how it goes, do you have a single lock wire that needs resistors and a relay to work? how is that DMM that I put up a few post, link says ebay

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

link didnt work, but you can just head to radioshack or homedepot to get yourself a DMM. nothing fancy is required.

IMO, save yourself the buck and DIY, BUT take time to read and ask as many question sneeded for it to work properly. we dont want you burning something.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Can get a ok dmm at walmart for 18 dollars

I do not know if my car has relays currently or if it deosnt, the sheet here shows 2 diagrams LINK HERE, one for it already has built in relays and one if it doesnt, how do I know or how can I find out, cause I do not want to order parts if I do not need them

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

I also am not sure with this part either, the lock relay LINK HERE how do I find out which one my system has?

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

dereileak wrote:

I do not know if my car has relays currently or if it deosnt, the sheet here shows 2 diagrams LINK HERE, one for it already has built in relays and one if it doesnt, how do I know or how can I find out, cause I do not want to order parts if I do not need them

you won't have to order parts. you can use the 451m that comes with your viper unit. It is basically 2 relays in a box for applications such as this...

for real, I didnt even know this, wow, are you for sure, what about the resistors for the door locks?

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

are you sure it includes this module? the 451

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

well, it says I need a relay for this (DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION BROWN / WHITE (-), Requires #775 Relay ) but the alarm I am getting has a (GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT
Most vehicles use negative door trigger circuits. Connect the green wire to a
wire which shows ground when any door is opened. In vehicles with factory
delays on the dome light circuit, there is usually a wire that is unaffected by the
delay circuitry.) It also has an input for - domelight, now does it need that relay to power that wire for the domelight, or were they thinking most car alarms only have the positive wire and you use the relay to change it from a negative to positive output? I do not want to burn wires in my car, ha ha, dodge 99 grand caravan

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

I am looking for a the dodge 1999 grand caravan diagram for remote start/alarm/ door locks and all, I have found one on th12volt.com, and bulldog security, but both have a few different color wires and some say you need relays while the other doesnt, so I do not know what one to trust, and which one to go with. The bull dog one is more specific with photos and that, but still. Any help from anther source would be cool, thanks.

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

dereileak, please do not create a new topic for each part of this installation. https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~1725

Thanks in advance.

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posted_image

the12volt • Support the12volt.com

My issue is I have found a wiring diagram for my 99 dodge grand caravan on both bulldogsecurity and this site, but both has small differences in them, is there another one that I can use? anyone have access to official directed wiring diagrams? also do I need to hook up ignition 2 flexed relay wire? whats flexed mean? some people act like they are not needed, also for the parking fuse in the 5902, you can either go negative or positive, do I just match that to which route I go with hooking it up, either the positive parking wire, or negative parking wire? I am really excited to install this, if it wasnt for this site I would have probably not even tried it, as for the instructions, the 3 pin door lock says its just a 500ma unlock wire, and ones a 500ma lock wire, I am thinking then I have to put relays for the locking to work with my car, because it says it needs then if they are not built into the module, the part that starts confusing me is seeing all these wires I have to connect where there is no place on my car to do so, like the status output? starter output which is just a 200ma one, unlike the full starter input and output, anyone have any advice? thanks for all the help for everyone that has helped me too

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

I think what I have figured out is if the thing on the viper install says its a limited output like 200 ma, then it needs to be relayed for the car, because some of the car things is saying it needs a relay for it to work, but the viper alarm acts like it is only reading a voltage from it

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

dereileak wrote:

My issue is I have found a wiring diagram for my 99 dodge grand caravan on both bulldogsecurity and this site, but both has small differences in them, is there another one that I can use?

Then it is time to whip out the multimeter and start testing. You can also register @ https://techservices.audiovox.com/ and compare.

dereileak wrote:

also do I need to hook up ignition 2 flexed relay wire? whats flexed mean? some people act like they are not needed

yes I would hook it up. Connect the RED / white to 12v constant and the pink/white to your 2nd ignition.

dereileak wrote:

also for the parking fuse in the 5902, you can either go negative or positive, do I just match that to which route I go with hooking it up, either the positive parking wire, or negative parking wire?

you got it. you can grab negative parking lights right @ the switch in your vehicle.

dereileak wrote:

the 3 pin door lock says its just a 500ma unlock wire, and ones a 500ma lock wire, I am thinking then I have to put relays for the locking to work with my car, because it says it needs then if they are not built into the module

your 5902 should come with an included 451m module. This is basically 2 relays in a box and can be used for your door locks.

dereileak wrote:

the part that starts confusing me is seeing all these wires I have to connect where there is no place on my car to do so, like the status output? starter output which is just a 200ma one, unlike the full starter input and output, anyone have any advice?

All cars and installers are different. These wires may or may not be used depending on the vehicle and what the installer is trying to accomplish. On your vehicle, a good amount of the wires will not be used.

dereileak wrote:

I think what I have figured out is if the thing on the viper install says its a limited output like 200 ma, then it needs to be relayed for the car, because some of the car things is saying it needs a relay for it to work, but the viper alarm acts like it is only reading a voltage from it

again, it depends on the vehicle. 200ma is enough to trigger a relay. Some cars have factory relays that you can connect to the wire before it reaches them, so no additional relays are necessary. Other cars where you have to connect directly to the component (actuator, solenoid, etc.) additional relays are generally needed.

thanks a bunch, I wish they would put on the vehicle diagrams whether it was wire to run a relay already in the car or the full voltage going to whatever it is powering. the lock output and input say 500ma so I am thinking it is all I need, my 5902 didnt have the lock 451m module, but I did buy a bunch or relays with a dual holder wire thing for locks, but I do not think I even need it, the main thing is I do not want to fry anything, ex. if I hook up a relay and it sends 12 volts to a wire that is not supposed to get it, what would happen, my thought is if I try without the relay first then I wont burn out any wires, but I could also damage the brain if it trys to pull to much power, thanks for all the help, I will try that site

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

The current being supplied to trigger a relay doesn't matter. It could 200ma or 12 volts - doesn't make a difference. However, not using a relay when applicable could cause damage to the brain.

As for your locks,I think you are going to need relays. 500ma being sent through a resistor will not provide the same output as 12v through a resistor. However, your locks are a negative output, so I'm not sure if the same applies for ground. Someone with better knowledge about this might be able to chime in and help you out.

according to both 12volt and the audiovox it says nothing about needing relays, I am thinking this is just the signal cable telling it to fire the relays to lock the doors, cause think about it, why would it be a certain independence 250 to lock and 1050 to unlock, that sounds like it is going to a more sensitive relay and then firing the 12 volts to lock, essentially cant I just use a multimeter and find out how many volts it is sending and that determines if it needs a relay or not? Link TO DMM what do you think of that DMM, is it junk or will that be fine you think?

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

ok, I think your right about the locks, they need a relay, on audiovox it says to click this thing to see your one wire lock system, and it gives me this Link here which shows it needing relays and then firing through a resistor, good thing I bought all of those, now I just need to wait on the order from parts-express.com ><

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

ok anther issue solved, for the parking light it only needs a relay if the brain can only send out a positive signal, to switch it to negative, but the 5902 can do both, so I am set with that too, HELL YEASSSSS, man you have helped me a bunch

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

ok, now it says these are for

((+) RED / BLACK (30A) FUSED ACCESSORY/STARTER RELAY INPUT
This wire is the polarity feed to the accessory and starter relays.)

PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 FLEX RELAY OUTPUT
This wire is factory programmed as Ignition 2 and can be programmed as a
2nd accessory or as a 2nd starter.

(+) (30A) FUSED IGNITION 1 RELAY INPUT
This wire is the polarity feed for the Ignition1 relay.
H3/

(+) (30A) FUSED IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87
This wire is the polarity feed for the ignition 2/flex relay.
H3/3

are polarity feeds just telling the unit its a positive wire, so hook all those up to the 12v constant source except for the "PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 FLEX RELAY OUTPUT" one?

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

dereileak wrote:

ok, now it says these are for

((+) RED / BLACK (30A) FUSED ACCESSORY/STARTER RELAY INPUT
This wire is the polarity feed to the accessory and starter relays.)

PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 FLEX RELAY OUTPUT
This wire is factory programmed as Ignition 2 and can be programmed as a
2nd accessory or as a 2nd starter.

(+) (30A) FUSED IGNITION 1 RELAY INPUT
This wire is the polarity feed for the Ignition1 relay.
H3/

(+) (30A) FUSED IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87
This wire is the polarity feed for the ignition 2/flex relay.
H3/3

are polarity feeds just telling the unit its a positive wire, so hook all those up to the 12v constant source except for the "PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 FLEX RELAY OUTPUT" one?

The flex relay is like my favorite thing about the viper units lol. Directed has tryed to minimize the use of extra relays as much as possible.

you're on the right track. Since you have a positive 2nd ignition, you hook up the pink/white to your 2nd ignition and the RED / white to 12volt. If you had a negative 2nd ignition you would still connect the pink/white to it but then you would ground RED / white.

And you could have bought the relays through best buy. They would have only been a few bucks. I'm an employee @ best buy also posted_image

for real? well, I got them at parts-express cost only 1.50 a piece, you know how the agreement when you get the alarm through that viper employee purchase program says it needs to professionally installed? well i am no professional, but I am not an idiot either, does viper check up on that later to make sure it was installed by a pro? I do know viper says that even for customers as they want everyone to have it pro installed, what area you work in Best buy? I work in computers, mp3's, cameras, and Car electronics, even though I do not like to go back there because people ask questions that I do not know, but now it shouldnt be to hard :P for subs, which I learned a ton on and built my own box, and then alarms, ha ha, for some reason I do not trust any one to work on my cars electrical system but me, as I want to make sure it is done right, even though I have never done it, lol, plus it will save me 100 bucks, had to buy 100 bucks in supply's just to do this, but now I will have a nice wire stripper, cheap DMM, and a soldering iron, ha ha, thanks for the help btw

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

where would you recommend mounting the viper unit, I have a center console below the CD player that has a bunch of empty space I could mount it flat on there, or is it recommended to mount vertical? the only thing about that center console is it is all plastic and I do not know if its supposed to be on the car metal frame to pick up vibrations or what?

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

Don't mention it.

I'm an autotech. So yeah. Best advice I can give you is do your prep work! Before you ever set foot in the car, splice wires together that are going to the same wire in the vehicle, cut and stagger unused wires, and group and tape them up according to where they're going in the vehicle.

So for instance, you only have 1 12volt wire in your vehicle, but you have 4 wires on the viper that need to see 12v constant. So take the red heavy gauge wire on your remote start and strip about an inch of insulation off a few inches from the plug. Then take the RED / white, RED / black, and red thin gauge wire and cut and solder them all to the heavy gauge red. I can't speak for others, but this is how I do it atleast.

The less amount of wires you have the easier it will be.

As for mounting it, everyone has their own ways of doing things. I've seen some just ziptie them brain to other components. I personally like to what I call "spiderweb" the wire lol. After I bench prep the starter, I usually have 3 or 4 different groups of wires. I then stick the brain as high as I can into the dashboard, and route the wires in a way that suspend it securely in the vehicle. Before you mount it, be sure all your connections are plugged in (antenna, program button, etc.) Since this is an alarm, you don't want it to be too easily accessible.

Doesnt that car have the door lock relays right above the drivers kick...Would negate the resistors...

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

I do not beleive so, it says its a one wire system, and just to hook it to that one wire after going through relays, so I think I still need relays

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

do i need to use diodes for the lock relays coming out of the brain to drive that relay, or is it already designed to run on a relay and is fine?

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

Diodes are mostly used to prevent feedback.

No, you don't have to use them for your purpose.

you shouldnt need relays either unless it is both + and - coming from the 5902...Do both lock and unlock require a resistor...If only one and it is - out...Hook up both the lock/unlock wires to the single wire in vehicle...Cut the wire in half that needs the resistor...place the resistor in-between the cut lock or unlock...or just prep the unit with the resistor on the end of lock/unlock and then attach both wires to the wire in the car...Done...No relays...Or just go to the door lock relays in the car with the 5902 lock/unlock wires and pulse the factory relays...Either is ok...And both are pretty easy...

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

I do not understand how the domelight supervisor wire works, says too hook up

h1/4 black and white wire -85 on relay
12v + constant - 86 on relay
Domelight supervision wire - 30 on relay
supervision polarity feed on 87

do I put a ground into 87 since it says its a " DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION BROWN / WHITE (-), Requires #775 Relay " according to bulldogsecurity

whats does a domelight supervision do for me, is it worth the hassle? I have extra relays and will do it if its not that big of a deal, from what I have read it triggers the lights inside so if you have the car started at night its easier to get in and find, also it says my door trigger needs a relay if connected at the switch where you control the lights "DOOR TRIGGER BROWN / LIGHT GREEN (-), Requires #775 Relay ", but other sites with diagrams, like this one lists another wire at the fuse panel box , should I just use that one, also is there an easy way to find the tach wire, are there a bunch of them coming out of the engine, says mine is grey, I am going to install tomorrow if it stops snowing long enough, ha ha

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

ok, I am gonna skip the domelight supervision, cause it sounds like it just turn on the inside lights when you have remote start on, which isnt a big deal, but now I have an audio sensor that I hook in, the red led comes on, but it does not set off the alarm, from the looks of it it needs a bitwriter to add it, which I do not have, is there any way to have it work without the bit writer? like I said the led red one comes on, but does not activate when I tap on the glass, also if I mount the brain/shocksensor, which is all in one, below the steering wheel on the metal plate that covers under the steering wheel, its all metal, attached by about 8 bolts, will that be a good spot? I got remote start working, everything but the audio sensor, and door locks which I still have to hook up, any ideas?

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

I usually look high up in the dash for a big wiring harness and tuck it in somehow...Then secure it with a zip-tie...! I normally mount all shock sensors or all-in-one units this way...The metal you want to mount it to might be ok...If you like it there...Secure and test...Are we talking about a shock sensor...? If so and not an "audio sensor" then usually you can adjust sensitivity through the program menu's...Or move the all-in-one to a different location and test...! Get in the vehicle ...shut door...arm alarm...Wait 30 seconds and then physically tap/hit the brain hard...Make sure you are giving that alarm the initial arm time before its"ready"...and see if it sets of the alarm...Maybe the sensitivity is just to low or mounting spot...

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

it acted like you need a bitwriter to add the audio sensor though, is that true?

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

I am guessing no...Not all shops/techs have this bitwriter...And it would seem as if such an important part of the alarm would not need it...I guess there are some features that you can access through the bitwriter but most can be done through programming...Was this unit new...? Maybe there is a shock sensor bypass option that can be toggled on/off...But if it was new i think it should be ok...Did you try the arming the alarm and then hit the brain...? Does it refer to this sensor as the "audio sensor" in the manual...?

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

the audio sensor is a seperate thing I bought to hook on, the shock sensor works, I just need to mount it, the audio sensor light comes on but does not turn alarm on, maybe I need to adjust sensitivity

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

Is this a glass breakage sensor/microphone...?

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

yes it is

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

Just get a box of glasses and start breaking... posted_image

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

ha ha, I can try it, now I want to buy a second piezo pain siren to stick in the car, do I hook that up to the main siren wire? or should I relay the main siren wire and hook both sirens up to the output of that relay?

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

While the relay is probably the correct way...I've added them before just paralling them + to +...- to -...Never had an issue...! Then add some smoke bombs to ignite on the inside...

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

will they be quiter then? would it work fine with a relay

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

Sure you can add a relay...Are you asking if adding a 2nd siren would somehow reduce the loudness...?

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

yea, if I have 2 sirens on the one output of the alarm will the sirens be quiter then if it was 2 on a relay, also will the alarm chirp correctly and everything with 2 sirens if put on a relay??

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

you'll be fine w/o a relay for only 2 sirens.

ok, the outside one is not as loud as it was when I set it on the car hood testing it, now that it is bolted inside the car, I put it in a decent spot and really its the only spot that I could put it in, I used a factory bolt and put it on the inside of the mounting bracket, now I can not wait to get my piezo, all the functions work, one last thing, I still have not put the brain away and everything, x1le, do I need a bitwriter to program the unit to recognize the sound sensor, because it said in my manual you needed it to change zone 4, but I am not sure, also will the 200ma defogger wire need a relay if hooked up, I am guessing I need to find the wire by testing with my DMM and finding one that puts out 12 volts when switched on? but will it need a relay to work or is 200 ma enough and then that defogger wire activates a relay? I have no clue what wire that is in the car, its for the rear defogger, I ended up with a dead battery yesterday when installing (LEFT the door open and I think the lights inside, went to remote start after doing it the morning successfully and CLICK CLICK CLICK, I am like oh NO did I screw up a wire (after I taped most the wires up, then I thought, I will test the battery, was down to 9.2 volts, which is horrible for a standard NON-DEEP cycle battery, but got it going agian, and back up to 12.7 volts when off, and charging at about 14.5 volts, so its all good, so any advice on that? should I mount the piezo second siren by the brain so if a person tries to mess with the wires it will hurt the crap out of there ears? ha ha, I do not think a second battery is necessary, by the time they would cut the battery, or get in the car to disable the alarm, I would be on my way out, so , and I am betting I can scare the doodie out of someone, also should I put the viper stickers on the outside, some websites said to never put the brand of the alarm on the outside, but I think it would be good so people know not to even screw around

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

anyone know?

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

additionally to what was above, I kinda understood soldering before I did the alarm, now after I realize many of the joints I did were cold, meaning I heated the solder and then put it on the joint, many of the times I wrapped solder around the wires I was gonna solder, and then put the tip on and melted it on the wire, now realizing this is the incorrect way, although not the as strong as a regular solder joint, will it hold up over 5 years or so? I have plenty of tape on each joint and will make sure the starter wires have little pressure on them by using zip ties, I really REALLY REALLY do not want to take all the tape off and re solder, as this would take hours on hours, but I do not want to have an issue of my car not starting in 6 months because of a simple solder joint, let me know what you think, I personally think it is plenty strong, as some of the practice joints I did, that were cold, would rip the wire before the joint would break, also much of the time when melting the solder on the wire did heat up a lot, enough to make the wire very hot even from 3 inches away, all except the lock wire because i could not reach it well and was was VERY hard to solder in the little spot, that is the main joint I am worried about, so let me know what you think, also if you have a replay to the post that I talked about the defogger that would be AWESOME, thanks for all the help PEOPLE!!! =)

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

of all the connections made, since you have the 5902, im sure you used the starter kill built in.

just unwrap the starter wire and solder the 2 wires, violet and green.

i would recomend soldering all, but if time is an issue, just tackle the starter wire (motor and key side)

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Give your wires firm little tugs. If they don't come apart, you're all set.

The way I personally solder is put the iron on the wire, when I think it's hot enough I start to apply a small amount of solder in the corner between the iron and the wire. When it's hot, it will just suck it up throughout the wire.

As for the defogger, locate the wires to the switch and start testing!

...Also you could always strip the insulation back...In the center of the wire push the test lead from your meter...So now it looks like an eye of a needle...Push the attaching wire through and push close the whole...Tightly wrap the attaching wire around the exposed wire in the vehicle...Wrap tight with tape and then finish off with a zip-tie around the wrapped point...Kinda will have to guess once tape is applied...but still not hard...

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

do I locate them right at the switch where the harness connects to the switch? I do not want to blow something, my main worry is that the switch will take more then 200 ma and will ruin my viper unit, also I am putting leds in the driver and passenger foot wells, I want them to blink with the main led, but I also want control over them with the remote, I know how to control them with the remote already, but how can I get them to blink on and off with the main led that tells thiefs there is an alarm, it will take approximately 500ma to run all the leds, all 72 of them at 20ma a piece, 3.1 volts a piece, it says "
    * each 33 ohm resistor dissipates 13.2 mW
    * the wizard thinks 1/4W resistors are fine for your application Help
    * together, all resistors dissipate 237.6 mW
    * together, the diodes dissipate 4464 mW
    * total power dissipated by the array is 4701.6 mW
    * the array draws current of 360 mA from the source.
" I am thinking this would not drain the battery at all really because of how low the voltage is, also is there a way to get car deck to send out the amp start 5 seconds after the car starts, because it seems that it starts the car with the amp on, which makes it a harder start because of all the power being pulled from the battery, like hooking up the wire that starts the amp to a relay, but I do not know what wire would activate the relay to start the amp, thanks for all the help, I think my soldering will hold, it is strong enough to pull on very hard
"

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

i think with those piezos you want to take out a heater vent cover, then drill hole behind cover on heater vent piping or whatever, and put piezo over hole so sound travels through vent after you put cover back on, also i might be wrong but i believe if your vehicle does not have security, you couldve tagged negative trigger of door lock relays without the need for resistors.

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GreenGables

gabedemelo wrote:

i think with those piezos you want to take out a heater vent cover, then drill hole behind cover on heater vent piping or whatever, and put piezo over hole so sound travels through vent after you put cover back on, also i might be wrong but i believe if your vehicle does not have security, you couldve tagged negative trigger of door lock relays without the need for resistors.

I tried to address the no need of resistors by going to the relays...But was brushed off...! SO probably forget it...!

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

ok, I finished it, but my shock sensor picks up like nothing, I have to hit the car really hard, plus it doesn't detect the trunk, I have it set to level 15, and doesnt do much still

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

Move the shock sensor/ brain to another location...and test...Where did you mount the brain...? Might have to add a second shock...Did you hook up the trunk trigger...? Since its mounted on the driver side...? That will be the most sensitive...

-------------
M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

use velcro and attach the brain to a large piece of metal. this will help it detect more impacts, but not be to sensitive if you mounted it right on with metal screws.

if your trunk doesnt trigger, you must have forgotten the trunk pin input.

you can run 2 sirens off the siren wire from the viper, but if you want to run more, or take precautions, a relay will do the trick.

85 - ground when armed
86 - siren output from viper
87 - constant 12v fused at 5 amps
30 - to postive siren wires.

the reason i said run 85 to ground, the pieze siren (inside cabin) will only work when the system is armed. you really dont want your kids or someone inside your car, then if you press trunk or unlock, the siren will chirp inside. this is painful to the ears.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Also you dont want the shock sensor too sensitive...Otherwise every truck,loud exhaust,loud stereo will set it off...or the warning chirps...! Are you saying you can hit the trunk without setting the shock sensor off...? You want a medium tap/hit to trigger the warn away chirps...

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

correct, all the doors and trunck work for door trigger, I meant the hatch back part of the van is not detected with the shock sensor, and I am not able to set off the alarm with a shock sensor, only warn chirp as it must not detect a hard enough chirp, I think I will fix the issue with getting a 508d, proximity sensor, got it on ebay for only 30 bucks, then people dont need to even touch the car for it to warn, that will do the trick :P, also if I just hook up 2 sirens to the main wire and ground both, then both will chirp, but your saying hook up the pieze siren to the ground when armed output on the alarm, can I just do no relay, leave regular siren how it is, and put pieze siren on main siren output and ground the other end to the ground when armed output? or should I only use that ground with armed output with a relay and not directly to the siren, your right a blast in the ears when in the car would not be nice, ha ha

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

you can still leave the primary siren as is, for the pieze siren, connect black to chassis ground, not ground when armed as you will burn this output.

for the pieze, and a relay

85 - ground when armed
86 - 12v siren wire from viper (brown)
87 - constant 12v
30 - red wire of siren
black wire of siren to frame or chassis ground.

hope this clarifys things for ya

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

awesome, also should I branch off the main siren brown wire, one going to the piezo siren and one going to the main siren?

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

I mean one going to the relay for the piezo siren and one going to the main siren, also I hooked up the rear defroster, it showed like 12 volts when off, and 1.5 when on, and I hooked up the negative 200ma wire to it, when it turns on I hear the relay click and it works fine, I just want to make sure that it will not burn it out, it is only to drive a relay thats already in the car

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

yes you will simply branch off the siren wire to the relay.

did you test the wire for defroster? if you have verified it is the correct wire, if the output from the viper can trigger the factory relay, you are okay.

you can always wire in a relay just incase as a preventative measure.
85 - 200ma output from viper (2nd status/defogger)
86 - constant 12v
87 - connect to whatever polarity is required for defrost.
30 - defrost wire that you tested.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

ok tedmond, I did what you said, so when I arm the car it allows that relay to activate the siren inside, tested and works, now for an issue though, when I put the key in the car and IS NOT ARMED, with no remote start, the siren is super quiet, but I can hear all the tones playing through, one at a time, even when I put in gear and drive, the siren is still going, I just branched off the siren output hooked to relay and also hooked ground when armed up, so those two activate the coil which allows the 12v fused through the relay to the siren. Any ideas, do I need a diode between the the siren output and the wire going to the relay, that seems to have been the cause, kinda weird, it must be getting a small small amount of voltage as its super quiet, almost like I am imagining it, ha ha

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

anyone know?

-------------
Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

you can try to diode isolat the relay from the siren wire.

try placing a diode across the relay terminal 85 and 65. never seen this problem befor.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

meter and see...try as tedmond said also...

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

ok, the relay of the siren works fine now, I am going to hook up the siren tomorrow, man is it loud, ha ha, i hooked it up to 6 volts with AA batterys and its blasts my ears, imagine 12-13 volts in the car. ok, now the main thing is my proximity sensor, do seats effect the signal, like if I mount it on the floor on the van up by the drivers seats, will the signal be fine through out the car, like, does it read even through seats? I set the warming as high as it goes and it reaches all the way to the back of the van about 3 feet outside, and all around the vehicle except the front, the main one I was having issues with was the inside, where it wouldnt read my hand in the car, but if I walked fast outside it would trigger, I just have to mess with settings, but any ideas? Also do I have too hook up my audio sensor and prox sensor to the same port? I didnt see any second spot to plug in the audio sensor. I imagine Iwill just wire the ground, 12v and trigger wire into the prox sensor, but do I need to diode isolate and how do I do that? overall my install went great, you guys have helped a ton, I had no idea I had the capability to do all of this and install on my own, thanks a bunch, the only thing I am not happy with is I didnt shorten any of the wires, so I have a bunch of wire bundled up under the steering column that just waste and left over, but I do not want to cut it all and resolder as that would take forever, dont fix whats not broken, lol, at least if this car ever dies or somethin, I can easily move it to a new one, well let me know on the sensor thing, thanks so much, btw, I just had to diode isolate the siren, for some reason my grounded when armed puts out 3 volts when the car is running, I imagine its for a bypass module to power it or somehting, because it puts 3 volts or so, that what the siren was getting at least, or more like 1.5 volts, but I think it must tell a bypass module to turn on, and then when the car is off and armed it grounds so it will not start with a bypass module. I made sure it was the correct wire, the orange thicker wire from the 9 pin or 10 pin harness, anyway let me know what you think

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

ok, a few major questions, got both sensors hooked up, but when the prox sensor warns it warns then send the whole things off, I have the wires split so that audio sensor and prox sensor go into the blue wire, the green wire doesnt split to anything, power is shared between both, the audio sensor says it takes 1ma, so I figured both on the same electrical wires is fine, is it ok to put both sensors on the same wires, or is that too hard on the module? do I need to diode isolate the sensors so that they do not trigger each other or what? thats my last part of the install, got the peizo siren in, and its pretty loud, should help deter thiefs, my van sounds like its have a seizure when it goes off, no one will stick around with this van, under the dash is kinda messy with wires, but its not like anyone goes and looks under there :P, so any ideas on my sensors?

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

anyone know?

-------------
Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

Yes you need to diode Isolate the sensors from each other. The instruction manual (for the sensor) shows how to do it. I have the audio sensor and a second shock sensor connected to mine. You should connect both of these to the mux port on the brain its right next to Neutral safety switch. My sensors came with a Y cord that allowed me to just plug them both in at the same time.

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mine has the y cord but doesnt have 4 wires, just 3, so I dont think the warn would work, I just cut the wires and spliced them together, I think I need to just add the diode to the wire going to the audio sensor, because if the audio sensor goes off feedback doesnt matter, but feedback from the prox sensor causes the audio sensor to go off, so I will diode it tommorrow, and then I am all good

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

I diode isolated both sensors, but when the warning on the prox goes off, it warns, then when thats done its always goes off, any ideas? I cannot figure it out, everything else works, the glass sensor works fine, the full trigger on the prox works fine, but the warn always causes the full alarm after its warned, does it drop voltage in the trigger wire or somethign?

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

ok, I can not get it to work at all I have tried every combination, interesting thing is all I need is the green wire to set off the alarm and to warn for the prox sensor, but no matter what, if the audio sensor was connected, no matter if its diode isolated or not, it would go off with just a prox warn. Now can I hook up the audio sensor to the truck instant trigger input, I am not sure if that would work, I know that when the sensor goes off it grounds the signal blue wire, so I imagine this would set it off, then audio and prox would be on different zones too, which would be nice, anyone have any idea, no one has helped me for the last few days, please help! its my last thing I have to get done to finish this damn project, lol

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

OMG, I can notbeleive I didnt think of this, my piezo siren inside causes the audio sensor to goo off, the peize siren only works when the car is armed, but while arming it chirps, and if someone walks by it triggers a warning, which BOOOM, sets off the audio sensor, I can not think of any way around this, any one have any ideas?, I want the prox sensor to warn, thats what it there for pretty much, man I spent 3 hours trying to figure out what was wrong, and then it hit me, wow

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

ignore all my posts except my last one, that is my biggest issue, any one have any ideas, it is driving me nuts, I want to have both, but they are causing issues

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

I need to find a wire thats only active when the car alarm is going off full, no warns or anything, I think the horn output wire would work, but that pulses, and I want it to be constant, is there a way to have a relay, cause the horn wire goes off when full alarm is off, then it would allow my audio sensor to work because the warning chirps wouldn't cause it to go off because of my pieze siren inside, but how can I get it to be constant?

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

DOES ANYONE KNOW??? its like your ignoring me!!

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

ahah we arnt ignoring you,

im not too sure how you would go about doing that.

i guess not to have that sensor do any warning chirps by not wiring it up, OR set th eunit to sound on full trigger only and not do warn away.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

THANK YOU TED, well, I want the warn away, my idea is hooking up the negative relay of the peizo siren to the horn honk output negative, it will pulse the siren, but that will still hurt ears very much, then the audio sensor wont go off when the prox sensor chirps

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

Ok, all finished, Alarm is done, prox sensor is run and set, works great, audio sensor works, I had the hook up the peizo siren up to the horn honk output so it would not set off the audio sensor when the prox sensor went off, so it pulse but that still hurts your ears, not as much though, and i have the relay ready for when my LED's come to make my car all cool and blue inside :P, everything turned out awesome, works great, thanks for all the help everybody, I spent a LONG LONG time learning how to do this and getting it right, and it paid off, I thank TED and X1xe the most!!!!! I will have to get some pictures of my car soon on here, the main reason for it was to protect my Kicker 1500.1 Mono AMp, which is very expensive, and my 2 Kicker CVX 15 Subwoofers, also pricey, and to make my car all warm inside when I go to school and work. Just one question for you:

I mounted under the steering column, some people say thats a bad spot because of easy access, but my van must not be like most peoples cars, you have to pull out 10 big bolts just to get to the alarm, which takes at least 10 minute with the door open, and I would be out there by then, so are most peoples cars steering column that hard to get too? as mine is not easy to get to it, ha ha

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

The question of where you put it...Could they just stick there head under the dash and locate wires...? I usually wrap ALL my wires from connector to connection...This makes it more diffucult for a thief to locate and dis-connect power wire(s)...They dont have to locate the brain to disable the alarm...But just the wires from it...! Just make sure these are not visible by sticking your head under drivers dash and looking up...You have added just about EVERY step of security you can have(besides a flat-bed... self-lowering suspension posted_image

)...Hiding the wires is just as important...Siren,power,etc...You could even get loom/wrap that matches your factory wire coverings and add to the diffuculty of finding...Although tape will probabbly be more then sufficient...!

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

well, when you look under my dash there is a plastic cover you would have to bust off, then you can see some wires, if you feel up there there are lots of wires, kinda messy, but overall it would be hard to do that with my peizo siren blasting in your ears, and me coming to the car. mainly I am happy if It warns me enough to go out the the car, whether they turn it off or not, honestly I do not live in a bad area and probably wont even get my stuff stolen, I went overboard yes, its just feeling better that my stuff is better protected, I forgot to thank you too tommy.. for all the help!! I am so happy to finish this install, had to fun the prox wires under the carpet today, that was a pain, but finally did it. One flaw I found in viper alarms is if you find the ground wire and cut or disconect that, BOOOM the whole alarm stops, whether you have a back up battery or not, one little wire, which is the wire I would look for if I was breaking into a car, it stops everything. like mine is in the kick panel, I hid it pretty well so you cant just go and cut it, you would have to search, but I will be out there to kick there ass by the time there are out, I set my prox sensor to warn a good 3 feet from the car on the sides, and 1 foot from the rear, and trigger you have to go in the car, I wanted to make sure that it would not trigger no matter what you did outside, I was jumping and running up to my car to test, my neighbor probably thought I was some nut, lol, but it was tested and works good, I hid the wires well, but you could find them if you wanted, I should just put a sign when you remove the panel to get to the steering columns plate that says, cutting any wires will disable the car from starting and trigger the alarm, even though it will already be going off, lol, but anyways, thanks for all they help

-------------
Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

the only bad thing is, my siren ground can be disconnected in 3 seconds, its right when you open the hood you can see the nut its hooked too, I have the wires for the tach all in loom, but the siren wires got to thick with the taping I did to do loom, I figure if they get in the hood I will know and I will get out there. my sirens are pretty loud, but I want louder, like blast your ears and run away, any ideas for that? also any good PA system that I can put in my van, I want to drive up to someone being dumb at a light and yell at them, lol, like STEP ON IT pet monkey, XD

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Viper 5902 - Ordered
Kicker Dual CVX 15's - Installed
Kicker ZX 1500.1 Amp - Installed

I have seen lots of ppl use the radio shack $35 "pa"speaker,but that was to entertain everyone outside of the car...You could always add another ground at the connector...running the opposite direction...Same with the siren...So you said the brain was "hard" to get to...A couple inches from where the ground goes into the alarms connector...Poke,Wrap,Tape,or solder another wire and find ground up high in the dash...If this really is a concern...!

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!