current draw of a armed clifford matrix

Hi everyone,
Did the search and couldnt find anyone describing the current or parasitic draw from a clifford matrix 3.5 when the alarm is armed.
I have had this alarm for several year and starting a couple of months ago my battery seemed to be dying much faster if I didnt drive the car on a daily basis. I at first thought it was my aftermarket audio system including a capacitor. I removed the capacitor and the problem still was there. Ive done all kinds of measurements to see what the parasitic draw was from the car when the car was off and after a few minutes to let the ECU go into sleep mode.
My finding are:
With audio system disconnected completely there is no change in the parasitic draw of 37mA.
With clifford alarm fuse removed parasitic draw drops to 21mA which is right on the money.
With clifford alarm fuse inserted and alarm armed immediately, current draw is 184mA which is waaaay to high.
After 30 minutes of alarm being armed the current draw drops to 164mA
This leads me to believe the alarm brain is the culprit because I have also tried removing the fuses for the XCR module for the remote start (which I confirmed was not getting power) and that did not change the current draw which stayed at ~180mA.
I also removed every component connected to the alarm brain and removed all fuses from all relays connected to the alarm, none of which had any effect on the current draw.
Finally I removed the alarm brain and opened it up, no damaged components were found.
I'm thinking of replacing the brain but would like to know if anyone has an accurate number for the current draw of one of Clifford or Viper or Python alarm systems that DOES NOT have the power save feature.
Thanks for the help!

Sorry forgot to add that it is a 1996 Toyota Camry
Also the alternator has been checked and is operating normally just in case anyone is wondering.

The excessive current draw is close to what a relay would be.  Try actually removing the relay instead of pulling the fuse - if the fuse is on the contacts and not on the coil pulling the fuse won't help.

-------------
Kevin Pierson

Right now the alarm is in the valet mode and is only drawing 37mA, which I think is about right, yet when the alarm is armed it draws 160-180mA, the only relay in the system that is connected to the alarm is the trunk release which still works in the valet mode. Therefore I dont think its the relay. Thoughts?

Disconnect power to the alarm while listening for a relay to de-energize inside of the brain.  With the numbers you are giving, I too am suspecting a relay.  There could be a shorted transistor keeping an unused relay energized inside of the brain.

Does that alarm have an internal starter kill relay?

-------------
Kevin Pierson

your guess is as good as mine. I'll take the brain out again and listen for a relay to deenergize. I'm not sure if it has an internal relay for starter kill or in that separate XCR(extreme capacity relay module) that is connected to the starter and ignition and other remote starting wires. Its a clifford matrix rs3.5 and actually I did have a wierd problem a couple of weeks ago where it seemed like I couldnt start the car because the starter kill was activated yet the alarm was dearmed. I had to arm and rearm several times before it would let me start the car. Maybe some relay inside the brain or xcr module is stuck now how do i find out which it is?

If there is a relay that is energizing I would think it would most likely be the starter kill relay because it is only turning on when armed.  I can't think of any other relay that would only come on when armed.

There should only be a handful of relays inside - starter kill (maybe), door locks (maybe), parking lights (most likely) it should be fairly easy to figure it out if you can identify how many relays are in there and possibly where their contacts tie to the connector.  You can then test each output with the system armed to see which one is on.  If it were door locks or parking lights you would already know.

-------------
Kevin Pierson

Sometimes those xcrs modules from dei have a tendency to "stick" or latch, the relays inside the unit i mean!  

Most recently was a couple weeks ago, a simple tap on the module with a screwdriver and the customer hasn't returned since!

-------------
COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

Oh bring back original Clifford, US made with lovely sealed Omron relays. Draw SHOULD be seeing 30-40mA draw. When armed, the internal relay should be wired N.C.,it opens when armed (armed ground to 85) and ignition applied to 86, thus in THEORY it only activates and draws current on armed and ignition. Get near to the CPU, arm it and see if you can hear any clicks. You shouldn't. I think t&t might have the answer.

sticking relay. had it happen my moms old arcticstart unit. park lights would stay on constantly, and sometimes stay off. with a hard hit to the knee kick, it was good togo for awhile. then i just changed it out for a compustar.

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert