Printer Friendly Forum Posts - kia forte viper 5701 parking light

Hi,

I'm planning to install the Viper 5701 alarm on my Kia cerato forte 1.6EX (2010). However, i'm have some problems understanding the way the parking lights should be wired to the brain.

1) Is there a difference between parking lights and hazard lights? I did some reading up and it seems that parking light referings to the first "click" when you turn the light switch. If that is the case, why should there be a L and a R wire for it? Does the parking light in this case refer to the hazard light?

2) From the wiring diagram of the viper, the parking/hazard lights should be wired to the white wire in H1. However, how do i wire up both L and R of the park lights? According to the wiring diagram from www.wirewerx.com (which i bought), there is another green wire in the car which is "All Hazard Lights", and it is -ve trigger. Should I be wiring this green wire to the viper system's white wire instead?

Would really appreciate if somebody can enlighten me about this.

Here is some wiring diagram for my car.

posted_image

change the jumper on the remote start unit, to negative output, and you can use ORANGE, at the headlight switch, and save your urself some unessicary wiring.
but to answer your question, you could use 2 diodes and isolate L and R parking lights, or you could use 2 relays, and isolate L an R parking lights that way.

Hi thanks for the reply!

I'm intending to connect the white wire to the green all hazard lights wire at the vehicle. Will this work?

I did this car the other day and just grabbed negative p.lights at the switch. No extra dismantling/searching since it's right there by your main ignition harness.

Also, might need to wire up a relay to connect to the key cylinder and 2nd accessory to disable the car from cranking briefly during key takeover. I had to, atleast.

ok thanks for the heads up x1le. I'll take note when i do my r/s installation.

As for the p.lights at the switch, do you remember if it is the green wire?

Also, which do you know which accessory wire is linked to the air-con of the car? Is it accessory1 or 2?

I need some clarification here, when you guys mention "parking light", are you all referring to the hazard lights? The one that is used for signaling left and right?

Or do you guys mean the the first twist/click of the light switch where it turns on a dim light instead of the headlights.

Look at the wiring diagram you posted. Right under the + p.light wire, it lists a - p.light wire found at the switch. Super easy to grab it here, just make sure you set the fuse to - on the viper unit.

And parking lights are not the same as hazards. Parking lights are usually just the corner lights turned on, or the "first click" as you refer to. Hazard lights are your turn signals...

Thanks for the clarifications. In my country, most of our alarms are connected to the hazard lights. This way, when it flashes we can see it from the front and the back.

Am I right to say that the parking/hazard lights will flash automatically when connected to the white wire of the viper unit? Or do i need to do some other wiring?

You have parking lights in your tails, also. Hook up to the parking light wire and forget about the hazards.

And by default the parking lights will flash with just about everything including lock, unlock, remote start, alarm (obviously), but it's also programmable if you only want them to flash with certain functions.

Thanks a lot! I'll be doing some wiring testing this weekend, and will be probably doing the installation next weekend.

Also, do you know which accessory wire is linked to the air-con of the car? Is it accessory1 or 2? Is there a way to test it without cutting the wire?

Yes there's way to test! A meter! Do you have one?

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

Yep sure I do. But But when the key is at ON position, both accessory1 and 2 will be powered right? How can i test the function of each accessory wire individually ?

Well it obviously won't be the first accesory, so that leaves you with only the wires that read twelve when the key is at the on position, so, according to how many test twelve at this position, take a twelve volt feed to each wire right there at the ignition harness, momentarily, and as you feed each, turn on the a/c, when it comes on, that is the wire that powers the a/c, or to simplify your task, why not power all from the r/s, this way you have nothing to worry about!

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

Thanks t&t, let me get this straight:

1) Locate all wires that are 12 volts when the key is at "ON".

2) Remove the key

3) Put a 12volt to each of those wires, and check if it will power the a/c

4) Done!

Sounds good and simply enough. I got this correct right?

Thanks :)

Yes! Spot on!

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

Hi everybody,

just an update, I found all the wires that i needed for the installation except:

1) Tach wire. Do I need this for automatic transmission remote start?

2) I'm still not able to find the parking light wire, but i found the L and R for hazard lights which are + trigger. I measured the current through them and its about 4amps. I'm intending to connect them direct to the H1/white wire, add fuse and isolate them with diodes.

3) For the starter wire, I think i found it, but need some confirmation. When this wire is connected, the can starts fine. But when it is disconnected, it the starter will crank, but the engine will not start. Did i get the correct wire?

Please advise on my findings. Thanks!

P/S: Thanks t&t tech, i used your method and found the accessory wire for aircon and radio! :)

Tach should be used

starter wire should be white at the ING harness

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I/P-D pin 6 parking light negitive

I/P-F pin 6 parking light positive

posted_image

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If i Can't Install it I Don't need it Joe

Hey thanks :)

Can the tach wire be found in that picture?

I realized that there are 2 RED wires and 1 WHITE wire at the ING harness (I/P-H?). When i did a test on the white, somehow the voltage dips slightly below 12 when i cranked the engine, which i thought starter wire should not.

my diagram shows the white starter wire going to I/P-A

if you go to the back of the ing switch all the wires will be in one place easier for install atleast thats what i do

as far as tach i usualy go to an injector or coil you may be able to find it at the cluster but ive never got it there just figure im running the hood pin anyway so why not just run the tach out to the engine bay too

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If i Can't Install it I Don't need it Joe

I'll do some more testing tomorrow. I found my accessories1 and 2 at IP-A.

Any clues where i can find the tach wire?

look at the post above i must have been editing while you were typing

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If i Can't Install it I Don't need it Joe

ok thanks. I'll take a look again.

But i read that the viper 5701 has some virtual tach, and i do not need to connect this wire? of course i'll prefer to connect it up, but i'm having some problems locating it.

i have done some with virtual tach (when im in a time crunch) and so far so good and you dont need the tach wire for that it reads the cars increase in voltage to verify if the car is running

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If i Can't Install it I Don't need it Joe

great! thanks for the confirmation.

One last thing before I commence on my installation. Possible to double check my wiring?

Harness 3:
Pink ignition 1 (+) output -Connect to IGN wire, 12V constant
RED / white fused 30a (contact 87 of RS Flex Relay) - Not used.
RED / black fused 30a( for accessory and starter relays) - Connect to IGN wire, 12V constant
Violet starter output (car side of starter wire) - to be confirmed tml
Green starter input (key side of starter wire) - to be confirmed tml
Red 12V(+) constant fused 30a input (for Ignition1 relay) - Connect to IGN wire, 12V constant
Pink/black Flex Relay contact 87a (default is ignition 2) - not used
Orange accessory output - Acc1 wire (controls aircon)
Pink/ White Flex Relay output (default is ignition 2) - Not used

Harness 1

RED / White aux trunk release (-) 200mA - boot release relay
Red 12v (+) constant input - Direct to batt.
Brown siren (+) output - viper siren
WHITE/ Brown Flex parking light relay 87A - not used
Black chassis ground - GND
Violet door (+) input - not used
Blue trunk (-) instant trigger input - Trunk trigger
Greendoor ( -) input - Door trigger
WHITE/ Blue remote start activation (-) input - Not used
Whiteparking light output 30 - Connect to fuse in series with L/R parking lights (L & R isolated with diodes).
Orange ground-when-armed (-) 500mA output - not used
BLACK/ white domelight 200mA - not used

Neutral safety switch - jumpered together (ON)
Brown brake - Negative trigger brake wire
Gray hood pin - hood pin at the front
Tach wire - not used
2nd remote start status - not used
BLACK/ White neutral safety wire - GND

Looks good. However, I am pretty sure you'll have to power the 2nd accessory. I remember getting a short starter grind upon key takeover on this vehicle...

Thanks for the confirmation.
Could you help me understand how would the accessory2 wire cause the starter to crank the engine?

How should i wire the relay?

86 - access2 key side
85 - acc2 car side
30 - gnd
87 - acc1 ?

I wish I could tell you why, but being honest I'm not sure why. All I remember is that I had to interrupt the 2nd accessory while remote start was on to not get the starter crank "chirp".

As far as powering up the 2nd accessory, all you have to do is connect RED / white to 12v and pink/white to 2nd accessory.

I had to cut the 2nd accessory wire and I believe I wired it like this -

85 - orange on satellite harness (- acc. out)
86 - 12v
30 - 2nd accessory (car side)
87a - 2nd accessory (key side)
87 - 12v

oh ok, so no additional relay is needed? Just make use of the onboard flex relay? Let me read up on the configurations for the flex relay. I'm assuming i need to configure it to output as accessory2?

genexis wrote:

oh ok, so no additional relay is needed? Just make use of the onboard flex relay? Let me read up on the configurations for the flex relay. I'm assuming i need to configure it to output as accessory2?

I also edited the post above with how I wired a relay to stop the starter grind.

And yes, you should set it as 2nd accessory.

from your post, it shows that orange wire from brain will be connected to both acc1 and the relay for acc2? Do i need any kind of isolation?

I should just go for the flex relay solution then. Its just connecting 2 additional wires to the harness.

genexis wrote:

from your post, it shows that orange wire from brain will be connected to both acc1 and the relay for acc2? Do i need any kind of isolation?

I should just go for the flex relay solution then. Its just connecting 2 additional wires to the harness.

It is a different orange wire. You will connect the heavy gauge orange to your acc1 as you stated, but there will also be a much thinner gauge orange on the satellite harness that I connected to the relay.

For powering up the 2nd accessory, connecting RED / white and pink/white is definitely the easiest way imo.

You may not absolutely have to power 2nd accessory if you don't want to. I got in the habit of powering all wires if they're available.

However, I am fairly certain you will still need to interrupt the 2nd accessory wire regardless to prevent the grind. For some reason feedback is caused upon key takeover.

The way I wired up the relay above, the key cylinder will be isolated from the 2nd accessory wire during remote start, until after you do key takeover and hit the brake.

ic. Thanks for the info. I'll try to install the system tomorrow. I'll update this thread again.

Thank you very much :)

no problem. take your time and it should be a breeze! posted_image

Hi guys!

I did the installation today, and it was a great success :)
Here are some problems faced:

alarm installation

After fixing up harness 1 and door lock and unlock, i put the fuse into the Red wire. Immediately, the siren went off (but soft). After sometime trying to trace the fault, i realized that it was because i didn't ground the the black wire. I wanted to do it last so that i can put all cables that needed grounding together into one crimp. After grounding it, everything was perfect :)

Remote start installation

I manage to find the Ignition/starter wire in I/P-A. Thanks chev104275!
I followed my wiring configuration in the previous post, and when i pushed the R/S button on the remote, there was a melody which represented "remote start successful", but the car didn't start. Not only did the car not crank, there was also no power to the dash board. After much testing, i found out that "Red 12V(+) constant fused 30a input" needs to be connected to a constant 12V, and not Ignition1 wire. That solved my first bit of problem.

Next, power to the dashboard was available, but the starter will not crank! I swapped the starter key side and car side wires and that solved the problem.

For my R/S setup, I didn't connect the TACH wire. The start was good, no over cranking.

Parking light problem
Currently, I disabled the parking light when my R/S is activated. This is because the lights take up around 4amps each side, and my isolation diode is only rated at around 1-2 amps. This caused it to get very hot, which isn't good.

, do i need the diode when i connect the Harness 1 white wire (flash light output) to the Left and Right parking light of my car? If they are needed, i guess i have to use a diode with a higher rating.

I need some advise guys

Hmm, i cannot edit my post :(

Hey x1le,

Thanks for your headups on the slight cranking when key take over. However, I didn't encounter this issue today :)

use one of the wires i gave you there no need to doide isolate anything there will be one connection to either of those wire i usually use the negitive parking light wire make sure your system is set for negitive if you decide to use it

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If i Can't Install it I Don't need it Joe

Oh! I mis read your post previously. I though you were giving me the wiring for L & R parking light, which has already been tapped out by my previous alarm.

I'll look into it next weekend :)

Installed Viper 5902 in a 2010 Kia Forte Koup. Remote start, alarm, trunk release, and all triggers work fine.

One problem though:

(1) When Disarming, parking lights do not flash. Subsequent Disarming does not flash parking lights.

(2) When Arming, parking lights flash only once. Subsequent Arming does not flash parking lights.

(-) parking lights at headlight switch are connected to 5902 and parking light fuse is set to (-)