diy of viper 5901

I just bought a VIPER 5901, and I plan to self install this in a 1995 BMW 328i (Automatic). I have done some 12v electronics before, and have basic electronics know-how. I can solder & know how to operate a DMM.
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I have read others threads about people using "interface" modules which allows their VIPER unit to communicate through the cars computer in order to operate windows and door locks.

I cannot however find a plug'n'play interface for my car. I know my car has a central body electronics unit, but I cannot find an interface for my car. Is there one available for my car?
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I wish to have the VIPER close all windows/sunroof when the alarm is armed. I was planning to have an AUX channel operate windows too.

Will I need the DEI 530T window automation system to have it operate my windows?
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I've also read that BMW's require a positive (+) pulse to both open and unlock doors. The VIPER install diagram indicates that both lock/unlock outputs are a negative (-). Will I need to wire in some relays to have the door locks function properly?
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I understand that for the remote start feature I will also need to purchase the "Universal Transponder Anti-Theft Bypass 556UW", as my car key contains a coded chip. correct?

I plan to tackle this wiring 1 step at a time, and I've prioritized my objectives accordingly:
1. Remote locking & alarm
2. Comfort feature for windows
3. Remote Starter.

Is there any other advice or guides that you guys can help me with?
I've been to bulldog security & have a few wiring diagrams for my car from a maintenance manual.

Thanks in advance.

Here is the quick install guide I'm stuck with (until the seller gets back to me on a specific technical sheet for my car).

Yes you'll need a 556 bypass, also i believe that car would have comfort close, may just be as simple as extending the lock pulse to send the windows up, the down part i dunno, yes as i've learned recently DEI turned the output of the locking system to negative pulse, so if positive pulse is required you will need two relays to convert the polarity!

Also where's Howard?

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

Sorry the BMW King has been watching TV all night, Tottenham won thank goodness, hat trick for Defoe so I will answer this one for you tomorrow.
One question though. Can I assume UK spec (or same as, i.e. no factory alarm, amber indicators, right hand drive and do your windows and roof (if fitted) close when you turn the door key to lock and hold the position in the driver's door, also have you still got one touch on the window switches?
Plug and play Ha Ha, you're looking at about 40 solder joints and at least 5 1N4004 diodes and 1 relay if you want window/roof close on a separate button.

Ahh... well fair enough. I shall buy a cordless soldering iron then. Bugger doing 40 joints with that stupid lead dragging through the car.


I'm in Australia, so yes, my car is Euro spec (glass headlights, RHD, Amber corners, no factory alarm).

My car did have a dealer installed alarm (which crapped out), which is why I am installing the 5901. The dealership quoted me over $400 for a replacement... The viper didn't even cost that much with postage.

My windows both have one-touch down, but the drivers side is the only one with the one-touch up feature. I do believe my car will close all windows and sunroof via key in the door lock - I will check to make sure though.

Thanks for all the help guys, it is greatly appreciated. :)

Edit:
I'm not sure if the one-touch is supposed to work both up and down on the passenger window.

I am having the infamous window inching problem on that window, so I will be trying to repair that when I pull everything apart as well.

Here we go Scotty:-
Extra parts required:
556U to by-pass the factory transponder immobiliser.
451M relay module OR 2 relays (watch this space t&t, I'll teach you colonials how to include window close with only 2 relays).
10 1N4004 diodes. (you'll use at least 5).
Strip out:
Glove box, back seat squab and back rest...which "jerks" out to remove.
Centre tray where cig lighter is located and box above, instrument panel, and right hand lower dash.
Positioning Siren and hood (bonnet switch). Siren left hand forward edge of wheel arch (under hood) behind l/hand headlamp, look at hood striker plate there are two holes on the right side where the factory pin switch will go. Mark the equivalent position using a 12mm stepped cut cutter or 12mm drill bit. You only need about 8-10 mm length on the switch.
Inside the glove box area above the top of the carpet where your feet would go is an engine bay grommet, the original siren and maybe pin switch should have entered the car from the engine bay there. Use the original cables as draw-throughs.
Locks and door contacts.
Behind your glove box is an electrics mounting. There is a space on top, the 5901 might just fit in there!
1 row down, yellow plug, pins 17 lock and 14 unlock. (If your lucky the cables might still be there from the original alarm. These are pos. going so here's what you must do: If 451m is acquired, just plug it in instead of the Viper's original lock wires and set it up for pos. locking, i.e. purple and PURPLE / black to 12V+ constant, disregard WHITE/ black and BROWN / black, GREEN/ black to lock and blue black to unlock. Then join the GREEN/ black to the blue/black via a 1N4004 with it's band towards the blue/black, this will give you deadlocking when alarm is and then you effect window close.
If you use relays, plug in you original lock/unlock wires and do the following. 1st. Relay, Green to 85 12V+ constant to 86 and 30, 87 to vehicle's lock wire.
2nd. Relay, Blue to 85, others the same again diode from lock to unlock wire with with the band towards the unlock.
Now here's the clever part. If you want the windows to close via an aux, programme your aux as timed armed only and wire to either the THIN blue lead from the Viper's lock plug. Now place in-line diodes on the lock, unlock and aux wire with the bands towards the Viper. This is to prevent relay feed back damaging the Viper. A simpler way is to forget doing it via an aux and simply programme the Viper for "Comfort Close". This will give you automatic window/roof close AND deadlocking WHENEVER you arm it, but not when it auto locks via the ignition (default setting anyway).
You won't be able to vent the windows because this will unlock the vehicle!
Door contacts 4 door 4 wires 2 door, 2. These are on the plug to the right of the yellow plug. They are brown primary with secondaries such as grey, blue yellow etc. (can't remember all) with yellow dots. They might already be connected from the original alarm. If so you have to bring them to the Viper's green wire via diodes, the bands away from the Viper.
Centre switch panel. You have some switch blanks adjacent to the cig lighter. Drill 2 x &mm holes for the LED and valet switch. Also set the Viper (see your diagramme above) for neg. lights output and join the white lead to the BROWN / blue lead going to the Hazard switch.
Right hand side, inst panel. Remove there are probably 2 plugs at the rear, you are looking for the 1 thin black wire that's tach. Go's to the Viper's violet (or purple)/white. By the way programme it as TACH not virtual tach, it's far more accurate.
Under dash driver's side bring your dark blue status output to this point. This is where to place the 556.Set it up as European wiring without the RF loop.
Trunk contact, again there might already be one from the original alarm, other wise left hand side, bulkhead from car to trunk, high up is a a large grommet. On the car side, some cables loop up towards the rear shelf and "C" pillar trim. You're looking for a BROWN / white cable, join to it. That's your trunk (boot) trigger.
Last part (honestly). On the front passenger side at the engine bay bulkhead inside the car running over the transmission hump is a large cable loom
The brake and reverse wires are here. If auto, connect the Viper's BLACK/ white to the reverse wire, ditto the Viper's brown brake wire (TEST for the colours). If manual, feed the Viper's BLACK/ white to the parking brake switch in the centre console.
Also in this loom are 12V+ constant, red or RED / blue or RED / green (can't remember which!) ignition 1, light green, ignition 2, violet (or purple) and starter light GREEN/ thin black trace.
That's basically it, the rest is up to you, don't use the Viper's ACC output and sort your windows or the close won't work, it's so commonm on 3 Series of that Vintage that I ALWAYS check it pout before starting. Yes they should ALL have one touch.
GGOD LUCK.

Howard i learned that trick from you ages ago! LOL!

Not that i ever get Euros in my bay to try it, but, what can i say! Thanks anyway!

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

because of Howies post, this is why i dont touch BMWs

just reading all that to get some insight gives me a headache ahah.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

OOPS, MISTAKES on MY part sorry:-
Pin 17 is unlock but 4 is lock. They are opposite in the plug, the unlock side is blue with a reddish trace, the lock side will pobably be vacant. You can buy a short lead with the correct lead from a BMW dealer, they sell them in the UK, though it's a Molex part or strip 5mm from the end of your lock wire shove it in but not past the end of the plug, no whiskers to project, and cable tie it to the other wires in the plug's loom so it doesn't pull out.
Lastly, 2 x&mm should of course have read 2 x 7mm (or 9/32 off the top of my head).

X2 with Ted!

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

Howie mate, you sir, are a legend.

I (and many others googling will) thank you immensely for explaining in great detail every step.

I was already feeling pretty confident that I would get at least the locking/alarm functions working,as the seller did provide the DEI technical sheet which helps locate the factory wiring easily.

Now I feel like I could do it blind folded (except I'd have trouble determining the colours).


I will look into fixing the one-touch first before adding in the alarm system. Thanks for clearing this up.

I also realised that the vipers wiring is all coloured (in Aus, I think insurance policies require that alarm wiring be all black).

Obviously the coloured wires are necessary to distinguish which wires are what; when you pull it out of the box.

I do however plan to get everything in and functioning properly, then tape the doodie out of everything with black electrical tape (wiring, looms, brain, 556 bypass module etc.) so that it can't be easily tampered with.

I know that an alarm system is not a thief-proof device, it's only a deterrent, but at the very least having electrical tape on everything should make it a pain in the arse to tamper with.
Is this a bad idea?

I understand that troubleshooting any future problems (which I miss during initial testing) will then become a pain in the ass too. What are your thoughts, comments, concerns on this idea?


Once again, I thank you for taking the time to share your wealth of knowledge - your help and directions will be invaluable to myself and others.

Thanks, but today a frozen, miserable legend!
I forgot, heat shrink sleeving, 2.8mm, 4.8mm and 9mm.
The black wires only refer to the Oz/Kiwi versions of our Cat 1 alarms, the insurance companies are walkers. It's impossible to steal ANY European car made after about '94 without inside (the dealer) access to a coded key. If you did want insurance approved it would have to be a Viper 500XV with a remote start but that's a piece of rubbish. Yes I always tape over.

Ok, so I've completed most of the things you set out for me, but the wiring is becoming a big mess.

I'm going to start snipping/wrapping up the wires that are not used in my application, so...

Are these wires used in my application (I'm assuming not)

H1 - 1 Trunk output.... no solenoid, so no trunk pop for me.
H1 - 4 Parking light isolation wire.... no idea what this is for?
H1 - 6 (+) Door Trigger Input.... ummm, I'm using H1 - 8 for this instead, right?
H1 - 9 Dome light supervision output.... The ZKE body electronics module should do this when the doors unlock, so this isn't needed? maybe?


H2 - 1 through to 7... unnecessary... no OEM alarm anymore, and no AUX outputs used yet... so, not needed.





Other than those I'm stuck on these... (The wiring descriptions don't really explain...):

H1 - 10 Remote Start/Turbo Timer activation input... wth? I know I'm not using a turbo timer but... what has this to do with remote start? Harness 3 is remote start, is it not?

H2 - 8 Horn Honk output... I'm guessing this is connected to the horn... but it seems too simple.

H2 - 11 Flex relay control output... I have nfi, wth.
H2 - 12 Accessory output... hmmm
H2 - 13 Starter output... hmmm mmmhmmm
H2 - 14 Ignition 1 output.... ok, I still have nfi.


I wish the instructions explained the terminology a little better.

All the wires in the h1 harness you mentioned are unused!

H1 10 wire- used for an external trigger for the remote start (eg. Button or another system trigger)

H2- 11 --- nope

H2- 12 --- Goes to the wire that goes live when you turn the key to the acc position

H2 - 13 --- goes to the wire that goes live during cranking only

H2 - 14 --- goes to the wire that goes live when the key is turned to on and remains before, during and after crannking.

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

I thought that they would have been needed, but then why are they called outputs for that?

If they are connecting to the ignition switch, wouldn't they be "inputs" rather than "outputs" for the viper?

Thanks for clearing that up though. :)

The majority of the wires i listed in the heavy gauge harness are outputs for the remote start that will duplicate what you do when you turn your keys and supply the wires with current! The pink wire is and input for the system's ignition zone as well as an output! The other three input wires would be the reds that connect to constant twelve!

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

I was talking about the harness 2 accessory/starter/ignition outputs. They are only very small gauge (definitely not enough to be supplying power).

The heavy gauge wires are in harness 3. I am about to wire them up now...

so,

Harness 3
H3 - 1: Ignition 1 input/output... goes to?
H3 - 2: (87) flex relay input... not needed?
H3 - 3: (+) Accessory output... connect to accessory wire in loom?
H3 - 4: (+) Starter output (car side of starter kill)... goes to starter from Viper?
H3 - 5: (+) Starter input (key side of starter kill)... goes to viper from ignition loom?
H3 - 6: Ignition 1 input (30A fused)... uh?
H3 - 7: (30) Flex relay output... not needed?
H3 - 8: (87a) Flex relay input... not needed?
H3 - 9: Accessory/starter relay input (30A fused)...
H3 - 10: No connection


They aren't explained very well. I'm assuming this "flex relay" does not apply to me? I've no idea what it is, and there are no left over parts, so I'm assuming its not needed...

Still, I'm not sure why there is accessory/starter/ignition in the smaller gauge harness 2.

Edit:

Ok, so I've discarded pins 2, 7, 8 and 9 from harness 3. I have no idea what to do with them... so I guess they're unnecessary.

pin 1 - (+) ignition 1 input/output, and
pin 6 - (+) ignition 1 input (30A Fused) I soldered together and connected to "Hot when in Run & start", i.e. when the car is running.

pin 3 - (+) accessory output... I connected this to "Hot in accessory, run & start" for example when the car is in accessory (first position) or when it its running.

Now I'm stuck with pins 4/5

pin 4 - (+) starter output (car side of the starter kill)
pin 5 - (+) starter input (key side of the starter kill)

Where is the "starter kill"??? do they mean the "hot when in start only" i.e. the temporary 3rd key position which is used to power the starter motor temporarily?

OK so I've wired it all up.

The door locks were wrong, had to re-do them... I deadlocked myself in the car when I was testing it and couldn't get out.

Now I've fixed the door locking but the Remote start does not work.

As soon as I press remote start it gives an error and I get seven flashes.

The manual says this means it is not in manual transmission start (MTS) mode. (its an auto anyway...)

I tried following the instructions to enable MTS anyhow, but it does not respond to my commands.
The procedure says

1. with the engine running, set the parking brake and leave the engine running.

2. release the foot brake (if applied in step 1), or press and release the foot brake anytime. As long as the engine is running there is no time limit to perform this step.

3. withing 20 seconds of foot brake release, press any command button on the remote, after 20 seconds return to step 2.

4. The parking lights flash 5 times to confirm MTS mode enable and the remote start activates the ignition outputs.

5. turn off and remove the key from the ignition switch. the engine remains running.

6. exit the vehicle, close all the doors and arm the system.

7. the engine turns off and after a few seconds, the remote start off message plays to confirm.



I never get the parking lights to flash.... any help??

go into programming and change it to automatic.

as for parking lights you will need 2 diodes that are 6 amps ( if i remember) and go to the indicators.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Oh man... I can't believe I overlooked that.


Thanks for pointing that out... I will definitely sleep better tonight.

Pins 4 and 5, green and purple (violet). Cut the BLACK/ white starter wire, connect green to key side and purple to starter motor side.
You also mentioned an ignition feed that was 30amp fused. This should be soldered to a 30amp constant 12V+.
Your indicators:- GREEN/ YELLOW and GREEN/ blue. Locations...rear of hazard flasher switch OR steering column loom OR inst. panel split the white wire via 2 x 3 amp diodes 1N5404 with the bands towards the indicator wires.
Doors and trunk. I did an 04 Japanese grey import R type on Monday. I couldn't get access to the fuse box for all the rubbish previously joined so I pulled the ins. panel (dead easy) and picked up doors and trunk triggers there. If you go to the dome light feed, in Oz that's the cable coming from a white 2 way plug at the top of the kick panel, it takes about 2 secs for the dome light to dump, enough time to affect the alarm I was installing, that's why I went to the inst. panel, in fact I still couldn't find them probing the leads so I went to the solder tracks behind the warning lights and picked up from there.
Your lock comment, grey plug nearest in kick panel about 8 wires, to of the nearest are lock and unlock.
Now you see why we stress this as NOT DIY!!

Please also note here how the Commonwealth sticks together, or the Empire Strikes back! You were helped by a Canadian, a W/Indian and a Brit

Been a hard week and I've effing lost it with bleeding Hondas on my brain!
Indicators. Set the light output on the jumper for NEG. and join it to the brown blue at the Hazard Switch.
Starter wire is either light GREEN/ black or BLACK/ green, or blue
Ignition is light green,
Second ignition is purple (violet).
DON'T connect the Viper's acc wire.
Pick up your power supplies at the red feeder cables to the ignition.
Behind the glove box is a yellow quadplug, pin 4 is lock and 17 opposite, unlock. 4 is usually vacant so bare 6mm of cable shove it carefully in to the slot and cable tie outside to secure.
Don't forget to programme total close.

Ok disregard all of my previous posts

It seems I didn't explain properly what my current problem is, so I will start from scratch.

This is where I'm at:

• Door locks are working, both dead lock (when arming) and unlock (when disarming). This was already fixed.


• The alarm/shock sensor is working, it triggers the alarm and pages the remote.


• The parking lights are working, they flash when the alarm chirps/triggers (I connected to wire on hazard light switch without issues already.)


• Dome lights work when disarming, as the ZKE body electronics module does this automatically with door unlock, and stays on until a door open switch is triggered. I have therefore not wired up the Viper Domelight output and did not need diodes.


• The siren, trunk and boot triggers are working. I used the previously installed trunk and hood pin switches. These are working fine, the Viper recognizes them correctly, and their respective "zones".


• The Horn output in harness 2 pin 8, I have not yet connected. I may do this later, but for now the siren is sufficient and as I understand, all it does is trigger the horn when the siren is activated on full trigger (unless programmed otherwise).


• All of the (-) 200ma Starter / flex relay / accessory / ignition1 outputs which are in small gauge, from harness 2 I have NOT wired up. I am NOT referring to the wires in the remote start harness. These harness 2 wires are labeled (-) and say 200ma so I assumed these were something to do with switch signals and the "flex relay" setup for triggering a relay? I still have no idea what a "flex relay" is, and have assumed its not needed in my application. Correct?


• The heavy gauge wires in the remote start harness (harness 3) I have wired up as follows:


• H3 - 1: Ignition input/output ..... wired to ignition loom, where hot in run & start (ie. the On/run position)


• H3 - 2: (87) flex relay input (30A fused).... not wired to anything.


• H3 - 3: (+) Accessory output... wired to ignition harness, where hot in accy, run & start. (i.e. first position/accessory)


• H3 - 4: (+) Starter output (car side of starter kill).... Have snipped the (BLACK / YELLOW) starter wire in ignition loom, and wired this to the harness/car side.


• H3 - 5: (+) Starter input (key side of starter kill)... Same as above, except wired to the key/ignition side of cut wire.


• H3 - 6: Ignition 1 input (30A fused)... also wired to the ignition loom where hot in run/start (On/run position). So essentially, this is performing the same as H3 - 1.


• H3 - 7: (30) Flex relay output... not wired to anything.


• H3 - 8: (87a) flex relay input... not wired to anything.


• H3 - 9: Accessory/Starter relay input (30A fused)... not wired to anything.

Now...

I have paired the remote successfully - this is not an issue.

I have programmed the viper using menu 3, feature 1, setting 2 to tell the viper that the car is an automatic. (Thanks Tedmond )

I have programmed the viper using menu 3, feature 2, setting 4 to tell the viper to use tachometer as the engine checking mode.

I have completed the tach-signal learning procedure successfully.


However the car still will not remote start.

It is not same error I was having before (where the remote would reply with an instant RS error when given the RS command - Thanks to Tedmond I got past this).

Now the remote sends the signal, and the car begins to flash the parking lights as if the car has remotely started. However the engine does not start, or even crank. The remote also displays the 12 minute counter for the remote start runtime.

It is hard to determine what the error is, as the parking lights do not flash after it gives up (like it did previously) - and I have to run the event history procedure to find out what the error was.
When I do this, it displays the several of the last few errors and its hard to tell which is the culprit).

I also tried to remote start with the key in the ignition barrel (yet in the off/lock position) to use its EWS signature, as I thought that I may have wired the 556U incorrectly. However, the car still does the same thing.

How is the 556U supposed to be wired anyway?
Howie, I know you told me to wire for European setting without the RF loop... What exactly do you mean?
I understand the European setting means the jumpers are in the position for 60 windings... and I guess the RF loop is the black antenna which is supposed to loop around the ignition but... what do I wire the Pink, Violet and Green wires on the 556U to?:

"PINK (+) Ignition Input: Connect this wire to the vehicle’s true ignition output. (Refer to Latching Input, page 7.)"

"VIOLET (+) Keysense Input: Connect this wire to the vehicle’s positive keysense output wire. (Refer to Key Sense
Inputs, page 7.)"

"GREEN (-) Keysense Input: Connect this wire to the vehicle’s negative keysense output wire. (Refer to Key Sense
Inputs, page 7.)"

The explanation for latching/key sensing (in the manual) did not make much sense to me so I didn't wire them up.
However, now I cannot see how the 556U would be doing anything - all that is wired up from it are the constant 12v, the chassis ground and the blue status output to the viper. Where would it be sending the key's signature to the EWS unit?
It would have to be through one of the pink/violet/green, correct?

I'm assuming the remote starter looks for the signature of the key in the 556 regardless of whether or not there is a key in the ignition because the car will not remote start even if there is a valid key sitting in the ignition barrel in the off/lock position.

The car does start properly when I start it with the key (so the starter wire must be connected the to the viper correctly, I'm assuming).

This leads me to believe my problems lie somewhere with the 556 bypass, and the immobilizer.


Also which wire do you mean when you say "DON'T connect the Viper's acc wire" ? Please tell me you're not referring to H3 - 3: (+) Accessory output.... 'cause I've already wired that up...

Uhhh I just re-read my post about the MTS mode.

I will rephrase it:

The RS WAS giving an instant error, saying that it was not in Manual Transmission Start (MTS) mode.

I then tried the procedure (outlined in the manual), however the step which was supposed to confirm/signal to me, using the parking light flash - did not signal me.

The lights were hooked up previous to this, and worked on arm/disarm.

My point was that the MTS enable procedure was not working.


Anyway, this was worked out by Tedmond, and my issue is now where it is at in the post above.

Also forgot to mention - the doors are also working properly as triggers/zones like they should.

You're obviously not reading what I've already told you.
DON'T Join the Viper's ACC output to the car's, use the flex relay as a second ignition output and join it to the vehicle's violet ACC wire. There's a technical reason for this.
Follow the 556 instructions properly ref. European cars and restore the jumper to it's original position.
Plug H3. All the wires with fuses, power them up!
I won't tell you any more since you already know it all and refuse to listen.

Sorry if I came across as rude or ungrateful - It was not my intention.


I simply misunderstood your directions.

How come the Vipers ACC Output shouldn't be used? By using the flex relay do you mean I should use "H3 - 7: (30) Flex relay output" to connect to the Violet accessory wire?

BTW, I found out that the "Flex relay" is simply a relay, integrated into the Viper unit, which can be programmed for different functions, therefore it is a flexible relay.

It really should be explained better than that. Now I understand what the flex relay wires are for.

Edit:

Ok, so its all wired up - I charged the battery, and then tested.

Everything is working

Door lock & comfort close works.

The remote start works;

I have wired the safety to the parking brake rather than the reverse wire, as the car already will not start in any gear other than Park or Neutral (Yes, I even tested. All the electronics come on when it tries, but then when it goes to crank, the RS shuts down).

So, having a safety on the park brake as well seemed a more logical option.


The Foot brake works to shut it down properly too.

I am happy.



I am curious though, as I had already wired the Vipers ACC to the cars, and it is working. I would like to know why you think it should not be done this way...?

on "normal" cars ahah, the acc is dropped when the key is put into the start position.

for bmws, the acc, ign are constantly live feeds even when it is in the start position. ultimatly why you wire an ignition wire to the acc wire of a bmw.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Hope I've explained in my PM but Ted's right, try leaving the vehicle 5-10 minutes (i.e. wait for the transponder to time out) then see if it starts,. If it fails, wire it as we said.
By the way I also have problems with the flex relay, though I've never installed one, I've read the instructions and the reason's for the flex relay aren't explained too well.
The reason for using reverse rather than handbrake is that it's AUTOMATIC (pardon the pun), anyone trying to steal (yes I know it's alarmed, factory immobilised etc.) will have to shift the gear lever past park and REVERSE to get into neutral and drive.

Haha, it's good to hear that I'm not the only one that was confused with their relay instructions.

From what I learned, the "Flex relay" is just a relay built inside the Viper Brain/control centre, and its terminals are connected to the wires which are labelled "blah blah... flex relay".

It is called a "flex" relay because it can be programmed by the brain to do one of several different functions (once installed). Really it should be called "the in-built, programmable relay". It really is that simple.

As for getting to understand where the wires go, I would suggest doing a few things before you even start (things that I learned the hard way).

1. When you are cutting into the ignition harness, just attach 1 wire to each of the Constant 12v, accessory, ON (12v when running) and starter. Use these 4 wires to run under the dash to where ever you are locating the Viper brain.

I did not do this, and after re-wiring things several times I ended up with 7-8 wires all different all different colours, going all about the ignition switch, several of which were soldered to the same wire, but at different points... It was a total mess.

I found that the original H3 wires were about 4" too short to reach my switch loom from the glove box... so this meant I had to spend AGES re-soldering other wires to extend the heavy gauge wires just 5" so I could actually connect them to the ignition.

This was an absolute PAIN IN THE BUTT. Just get some long wires, in the same (or heavier) gauge, and tap into the ignition loom, then run these wires over to the brain (as stated above). Then you can use these as the ignition loom wiring points to connect up your alarm, it will save you A LOT of trouble and keep your ignition loom area very tidy.

2. Make sure that when your add these extension wires that they are tapping into the Ignition loom, between the ignition switch and any harness that is under the dash which connects the switch & loom to power. This is important so that you can disconnect the harness and not worry about live ignition wires dangling about when you are running wires/soldering stuff. When its all wired up & double-checked, you just plug the harness back in and bam! they've got power again. If you wire on the other side (car side) of the harness... then the only way to disconnect the constant 12v when working is to disconnect the battery... that will suck.

3. Find all the wires in the harness which will use a common source, then bind them together, and therefore you will only need to solder them once. What I did was solder it all wire-by-wire, and ended up having to solder 4 or 5 wires to the same constant 12v, and then several wires to the same ground etc. etc.

This was very silly on my part - instead you should just find all the wires that need 12v, wrap them in electrical tape together, then all together, solder them to the single 12v extension wire that you ran from the ignition loom. Do the same for all the wires that are going to ground, and then the same for any that need accessory/switched 12v etc.

From memory (I will double-check this and post back...) I wired H3 as such:

1- Pink, Ignition 1 input/output..................... 12v When in Run

2- RED / White, Flex Relay Input (30A fused)........... Constant 12v

3- Orange, Accessory Output.......................... 12v When in Acc.

4- Violet, Starter output (car side).................**See Below

5- Green, Starter input (key side)...................**See Below

6- Red, Ignition 1 Input (30A fused)................. Constant 12v

7- Pink/White, (30) Flex relay output................ Not connected

8- Pink/Black, (87a) Flex relay input................ Not connected

9- RED / Black, Accessory/starter relay input (30A).... Constant 12v

** Basically anything with an inline fuse on the harness, needs to be connected to 12v constant.

For wires 4 & 5:
You need to find the wire that sends 12v when you turn the key to signal the starter motor... For this you will need to have a wiring diagram of your car's power distribution/starter system.

When you find this wire, you will need to cut it in two. The side that is connected to the ignition switch (key) will connect to Green #5, and the side of the wire which leads to the wiring loom harness (car) will connect to Violet #4. This is essentially being wired in series, and not parallel (tapped) like the other wires of H3.

The key-signature immobilizer system on your car will most likely vary to mine if you aren't performing the install in the same make/model/year of car.

For this you need to read the bypass manual and install it from there. However - for me, my install went like so:

When you remove the plastic under panel below the key/ignition switch, you will see 2 very small green wires which were running up to a black loop that wrapped around the barrel of the ignition - this black loop is the antenna for receiving the key's signature, which then runs to the EWS II immobilizer system via the two green wires.

What I had to do was cut ONE of the green wires (either one, it doesn't matter which), then add the bypass unit in series to the green wire.

Which car are you installing your 5901 in?

Just double-checked... those wiring suggestions above should be correct.

Scotty...why didn't you read my original post properly!
I said join to the ignition loom over the transmission hump BEHIND THE GLOVE BOX! I say these things for a simple reason that I've done these cars many, many times and I know where everything goes. Apart from the status (GWR) wire to the 556 I NEVER go to the driver's side on an E36. You'd have saved about 2 hours!
Sacredcreationz please redo your post and start another thread the Eclipse has nothing to do with BMWs and it's simply too confusing.
Scotty, your comments on the flex relay are spot on!

As per HowieII I did start a thread based on the fact that my car is a 99 Mitsubishi Eclipse but none the less it was good to hear the final install of this gentlemans Viper 5901.  The only thing I think you might want to change is that if someone wanted to steal your car all it would take is a pre made plug.  Without cutting the wires after the plug (between car and plug and not ignition and plug) then the viper will not provide the starter kill.  If someone unplugs your ignition plug and jumps a couple wires, it will start and then run.  Just a thought not trying to tell you how to do anything by any means.  Once again great job figuring this stuff out.  Viper doesn't communicate very clearly.

Good point BUT the BMW has a factory transponder immobiliser. The potential thief would be tearing down the lower dash, hoping he/she knows all about the 556 box, the siren blaring anyway!

howie ll wrote:

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Scotty...why didn't you read my original post properly!
I said join to the ignition loom over the transmission hump BEHIND THE GLOVE BOX! I say these things for a simple reason that I've done these cars many, many times and I know where everything goes.

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I tried! I really did! lol.

I pulled out alot of stuff behind the glove box trying to find the wires from the ignition, but there was just way too much wiring for me to find anything in there or the looms that fed over the transmission hump - I ended up thinking it would be easier just to tap into the loom from the switch.

The wiring behind the steering wheel is like a jungle, there was no way I could trace the wires from behind there...

What? Just remove the zip (cable) tie to the left of the hump,easily replaced, upper loom, red, purple (violet) light green and light GREEN/ thin black trace, that's it! Hard? Easier than driver's side!

Ugh. Well it definitely wasn't that easy on my car... :(

It would have been if you'd have followed my instructions.