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01 cavalier 2.2l remote starterPrinted From: the12volt.comForum Name: Car Security and Convenience Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc. URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=119945 Printed Date: May 17, 2024 at 9:30 PM Topic: 01 cavalier 2.2l remote starter Posted By: atriosm3 Subject: 01 cavalier 2.2l remote starter Date Posted: February 07, 2010 at 1:11 AM Hello,
I am currently installing an Autopage C3-RS-665 2W 2-way remote starter in a 2001 Cavalier 2.2L. I am also using a iDataLink bypass module ADS-TBSL PL. So this is the problem: the car cranks, you hear the radio turn on, you even feel it run for a split second, and then it just dies....? This is how I have it setup. Remote Starter: H1 Harness -1st ignition - pink wire on car -starter - yellow wire on car -12v power - red wire on car -accessory - orange wire on car -(i did not find the second ignition wire which some sites say exists and some say does not and it's suppose to be white coming from ignition switch harness from cluster or PCM, but I don't think there is a second one as well. If there is, that may as well be my problem...but lets hear your feedback) H2 Harness -Ground - car frame -Parking Lights Power - 12v red -Power - 12v red -Parking lights - brown (does this need a rely to work, or do I just plainly tap the wire) -Horn - dark green (do I need to install a relay for this as well to work, or do I just plainly tap the dark green wire?) H7 Harness -ground -brake switch -Hood Pin (pending- will install after I get everything working) -Tach wire (pending- will install after I get remote portion working with voltage sense) I made sure to program the autopage starter module to voltage sense mode and not tach mode for now. iDataLink connections -data cable from iDatalink to remote starter -pink wire to ignition wire on remote starter which goes to the 1st ignition wire on car -orange wire to the the obd-II connect on car on port number 2 on the connector (it's a purple wire). When programming the iDatalink, it says to turn the key to start (I assume to start the car) and the LED light on the module will glow green in a few seconds when it's programmed. If it does not glow green (if it glows red), click the program button and you are done. I actually have to click the program button because it glows red for me, but then turns solid green and then it goes off. I assume that it's programmed. I have my car setup to do voltage sense. I know, I should do tach, but I will do that later. I just want this thing to work finally. If anyone has any advice, it would be much appreciated. I am so close, that I'm about to pull my hair...haha...well hopefully not. Again, the car will crank over. Then it dies right away. The car's anti-theft red light blinks until I click the start option again to turn off the car....but the car isn't even running. I also tried leaving the key in the "off" position, and the same thing happened. When the key is on the "on" position (car off), the remote doesn't work because it thinks the car is already running which makes sense. Sorry about the detail, but I wanted to cover everything I did. Thanks in advance. Below are the links to the two products I am working with. Autopage Remote Starter - click to see the exact starter iDataLink bypass module - click to see the exact bypass module I look forward to troubleshooting this. And please don't tell me to bring it to a shop. I am very capable. I just missed a minute detail which I am hoping you may help me find what I missed : ) Replies: Posted By: sneakycyber Date Posted: February 07, 2010 at 1:28 AM I don't see keysense in there anywhere.. Its Light green NEG in the ign harness.
------------- Posted By: atriosm3 Date Posted: February 07, 2010 at 1:51 AM sneakycyber wrote: True, but my understanding is that I do not need that. My other understanding is that the 01 Cavalier model may not have that wire. Here is the iDataLink (below) install manual. iDataLink install manual According to them, my car type is a 6 and the install page is on 9 of the pdf. If you see how they have set it up, you will see that the key sense is not needed (according to them at least). Make sure to look at the install setup "6." It mentions it in their 2nd page of the manual that 00-05 cavaliers are type 6 install. Thank you for the idea. The weird part is that idatalink says to do it like setup 6 but I thought at first that I would be setup 3 in the pdf. Setup 3 actually uses your passlock II wires right on the lock cylinder, while setup 6 uses the data cable on the obd-II connector.....hmmmm....makes me wonder....but I assume they must be right. They are after all a very reputable company. Any thoughts?? Posted By: sneakycyber Date Posted: February 07, 2010 at 4:25 AM I read the manual for your bypass, and I understand it doesn't list the keysense wire but the vehicle has one. First check unhook the bypass module from the car completely and try to remote start with the key in the ignition. This will tell you if its a starter wiring problem or a bypass. You cannot check this with the bypass still installed the car will see 2 keys and it will cause the pass lock to kill the ignition.
------------- Posted By: kreg357 Date Posted: February 07, 2010 at 6:06 AM Try doing a Factory reset on the IDatalink module (page 19). Then select the proper mode, either Data or Standard (page 17). Then try programming to your car following the Type 6 instructions on page 18, allowing 2 seconds between step 2 & 3. At step 3, if your car has factory anti-grind, hold the key in the start position while the module programs. Good luck. ------------- Soldering is fun! Posted By: sparkie Date Posted: February 07, 2010 at 10:43 AM First unplug all modules and use a digital volt meter to confirm all wiring is correct. You should connect the tach wire input (white wire at distributor on the dirvers side of the motor). Program the remote starter. Program the ADS bypass, but don't have the negative out when running wire connected. Leave it unhooked until the starter is programmed. Make sure that you are programming the ADS module for standard mode (2 flashes). If you still have problems, then use your volt meter to check that each power circuit isn't dropping out on either the remote starter or the bypass. Make sure that you are getting a ground out when running signal when the remote starter is activated. The problem does sound like a Passlock problem especially if the Passlock light flashes in the cluster.
------------- sparky Posted By: atriosm3 Date Posted: February 07, 2010 at 11:15 AM kreg357 wrote: Do you mean I should hold the key in the start position even after the car starts until the module light turns solid green? Yeah, at this point I have tried two options (needing to reset the module to try second option). (1) I put the key to the "ON" position and the light was solid red until I clicked the program button, then it turned solid green and went off - but no good. (2) I turned the key to "Start" position only until the car turned on and left the car on. The same thing happened as in scenario 1. So you're saying to hold the key in the "Start" position even after the car starts for a few extra seconds until hopefully the module light turns green by itself? Will this be damaging to my car? And how long is it safe to hold the key in the "Start" position for the starter to be cranking (I did see your note about the anti-grind...but I'm not sure if a 01 Cavi is equipped with that protection feature). Thank you for your input. I will definitely try it out :) Posted By: kreg357 Date Posted: February 07, 2010 at 12:35 PM I am not familiar with the AutoPage R/S's. That being said, most installers usually like to go W2W with the bypass modules. That is very easy with your setup. If you are still having problems getting the IDatalink module to program correctly, I would switch over to W2W. Instead of the data cable between the R/S and the IDatalink, run the 3 wires from the IDatalink. That's +12v, ground and (-) Status Output or Ground When Running. Do the whole reset process over again and select Standard mode ( 2 blinks ). Here is a link to another source of info for your cars wiring, with pictures... https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.asp ------------- Soldering is fun! Posted By: atriosm3 Date Posted: February 07, 2010 at 12:37 PM sparkie wrote: It's alive!!!!!!! (i know I wasn't suppose to use multiple punctuations as the forum rules, I apologize, but it's just so exciting). The darn thing worked. Man, it's such excitement when you accomplish a project like this and are able to start a car with a mere press of a button : ) So this is what happened. Also a tip to other newbies who may read my post. I did end up using the data mode (1 flash) on the idatalink bypass module. I figure, it should work, especially as a simple car as a cavalier. So, I did what you said "Sparkie." I went through all of my wires in darn -15 degr F weather, making sure not to break anything due to the cold. I initially set everything up in a nice heated garage, but no luck with that today. And you know what it ended up being...the orange wire from the bypass mod to the data port on the obd-II connection was not receiving any juice. After troubleshooting, I found out the connection was bad. I did use crimps. Yes, don't hate me please. I just wasn't comfortable doing soldering. I am still learning the art. But, just yesterday I came across a product where I really wont need to solder ever...maybe. As for the tip for newbies: Don't fully 100% rely on crimps. They may just be the thing that's causing your headache. And check, recheck, and triple check all your wires when you thought you have done it all. That's all I got : ) Check this out Posi-Lock and this Posi-Home-Page. This is revolutionizing the art of connecting wires. This may or may not be a good product. I will order some to check it out. From the looks of it and from checking out a few videos on yuobute, I think this may work just great! Many thanks to sparkie, kreg357, and sneakycyber for their input and help. If it wasn't for you guys, man would I be lost for a little while longer. Thank you ever so much again. Posted By: sneakycyber Date Posted: February 07, 2010 at 12:41 PM Ouch another rookie bitten by the Scotch lock bug. Its always best to solder wires especially bypass wires since their so important. I do admit I use T-taps on a regular basis but I use them VERY sparingly. Glad you got it working, and thanks for posting your solution.
------------- Posted By: atriosm3 Date Posted: February 07, 2010 at 12:43 PM This is a bit of a continual on the project, but if I want to get the horn and the parking lights working with the remote, do I have to use relay's or can I just directly connect the horn wire to the remote starter "horn output" wire and the parking lights wire to the remote starter "parking light relay output" wire.
Also, is there a way to add the rear defrost as a function to turn on when you start the car? If so, do I use relay's for that as well or is there a wire on the remote starter I could use and would anyone know what wire it may be for the rear defrost on a 01 cavalier and it's approx locastion? If no one knows, is there a way to find out with a volt meter? Thanks guys! Posted By: sneakycyber Date Posted: February 07, 2010 at 12:52 PM Parking lights are Brown and Positive at the Switch. If your unit supports positive parking lights either by changing a jumper or using a polarity wire then yes connect it directly to the brain. For defroster out put you can use the Ground when running output from the remote starter since your using D2D for the bypass. Use a relay to change the negative output from the remote start to a positive and make sure you use a good 12v source the defroster can pull allot of power. Sorry I don't have the colors or polarity of the defroster or the horn.
------------- Posted By: atriosm3 Date Posted: February 07, 2010 at 12:58 PM sneakycyber wrote: So in sense I am using a the "(-) 200mA Ground When Running Output" wire from the RS. But, I have to switch it's polarity with a relay and then connect it to the (+) defrost wire. Is that right? Also, to check wires for the defrost, do I tap into wires and check for voltage when the defrost is off (which should read 0) and then check for voltage again when the defrost is on (which should read 12v then, I think)...? Does that sound right? Thanks again : ) Posted By: sparkie Date Posted: February 07, 2010 at 2:10 PM Happy to hear you got it going. I wouldn't use the negative out when running wire to activate the rear defrost because it will activate any time the remote starter is used. If your remote starter has a programmable timed output activated with a specific press of a remote button, you can use it to power a relay to power the rear defogger. It depends on your remote starter. I would suggest a time of 5 - 8 minutes would be suffiecient. Another way would be to use a free channel on the remote starter to activate a relay to simulate pushing the rear defogger button. This would mean adding wires to the circuits directly on the HVAC controls. For your horn connection, there is a thin black wire in the ignition harness that requires a ground to activate the horn.
------------- sparky Posted By: atriosm3 Date Posted: February 08, 2010 at 12:14 AM sparkie wrote: So I got the parking lights and the horn to sync with the remote starter. Found the right wires. It worked out great. The only thing that puzzled me is, when I was testing the parking lights wire, I was reading 0 volts the whole time, even when turning on the parking lights and when turning on the headlights...nothing. But, I was attaching a lead to a ground (car chassis) and another lead to the parking lights wire. Now should I have been testing it differently? Should I have been having one lead go to a 12v source and another lead go to the parking light wire? Would that have been the correct way to test this wire possibly? Also, the rear defrost is activated for a timed duration when you press the button in the car and then it turns off by itself. So does that mean, all I have to find is that specific wire which gives the command for the rear defrost to turn on and then splice into this wire with a wire from the RS that only sends one pulse? I assume that this pulse must trigger a relay system that is timed, allowing the rear defrost to turn off by itself after so long....hmmm....any thoughts? Also, how would you go testing for this wire? So, lets say, when you press the rear defrost button, should the right wire only show a voltage for a second or two and then go back to 0 volts? To me this would make sense, as this wire sends a signal to have the rear defrost activated through a relay system (I think at least)? Thanks again. I feel like I am getting an electrical engineering degree through all this trial and error and learning proces....haha...well maybe not...but it's definitely fun stuff! I'm liking it, even though it can be a headache. Posted By: sneakycyber Date Posted: February 08, 2010 at 2:32 AM I personally use whats called a logic probe/test light it test for positive and negative polarity at the same time this is the one I have. With a DMM keep the Black probe grounded and when your testing for 12v + us the 12vdc selection when your testing for ground use continuity test (it beeps when you have a complete ground circuit or you can use an OHM test and it should zero out or come close to it). For your defrost test yes that's what sparky is recommending find the button on your HVAC controls and test it with your DMM to find out if its a neg or positive pulse and then wire up a relay for which ever it is. Most newer starters have a Dedicated defroster out put. Personally I see no problem in using the GWR wire since when your driving in really wet weather you use your defogger to keep your rear window from fogging up allot longer then the duration of the remote starter so I see no harm in having run for 15-20 min every time you remote start. I would say it is better to use a dedicated output but if there isn't one use what you got.
------------- Posted By: sparkie Date Posted: February 08, 2010 at 4:40 PM I don't know why you didn't get a reading on the correct parking light wire, unless your test equipment is at fault. The Brown parking light wire will show 12 volts on it when you turn on the parking lights or the headlights.
For the rear defogger, I have always connected directly to the HVAC controls. You will need to isolate the correct circuits on the circuit board to connect to. I usually use a relay to simulate the connection of pushing the rear defogger button. Doing it this way keeps the timer and fusing the same as factory. I also usually get fancier and connect the circuit through the use of the ground out when running circuit and a free cahnnel from the remote starter. This way the only way the rear defogger will work is if the remote starter is activated and you activate the designated channel of the remote starter. It's a bit more work, but safer. This way the rear defogger can't be activated accidentally. Again it really depends on your system if it has these capabilities or you know how to get creative with relays and use one to transfer a channel function to two different uses. ------------- sparky Posted By: smokeman1 Date Posted: February 09, 2010 at 5:51 AM Here is a link to my rear defroster question and the haelp/tips I received. Hope it can point you in a direction. The way mine is set up it will automaticly come on during remote start as if the momentary button was pushed, and then uses the timer of the car system to shut off after 8-10 minuets. I installed a small togggle switch in line to shut off that feature when not needed as the Viper 571xv that I have does not have the ability to turn on/off the defroster. My 571 is a older version, the newer version has that feature. https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~118680 |
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