Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 1991 mr2 remote start 5901

Hi, I've installed everything on the alarm except for the remote start. I cannot figure out a few things.

First thing-
If I connect the H3- 4 and 5 I cannot start the car. The instructions say connect H3/4(Violet) to the starter output which is the car side and H3/5(Green) to the starter input. I've done that but the car won't even crank. When I leave everything normal and just reconnect the starter wire the cars starts.

Second-
What do I connect the 3 polarity feeds to? I have no idea what it means so would anyone like to inform me on this? I have one for Ignition 2, Ignition 1 and Accessory.

Not sure if many people are too knowledgeable with the MR2 but I would imagine it would be similar to most other Toyotas that are around the same year. Please help! Thanks.

It appears the unit is in immobiliser mode, have you checked the programming? Also the flex relay gives you a 2nd ignition which you will need for heating, air etc., is that what you mean by polarity? try rejoining your starter wire, forget the green and just join the violet to it. Have you taken the factory alarm into consideration? There's a starter kill involved.

Thanks for the response. There is no factory alarm in this and I'm an alarm nub, but please don't say something like "then you should leave this to the pros." I have to learn some day right?

So how do I check the programming? If you were referring to the car having an immobilizer, it does not. I will go try your suggestion right now with connect the violet directly to the starter wires. Thank you.

Ok, so I tried that. And yeah it works But with just the violet connected I can still turn the car on while armed.

You didn't get it. There is a starter kill in this unit like Howie said. You shouldn't be able to start with the key if it is armed. Only when the alarm is disarmed, then you can start with the key.

moonliter wrote:

You didn't get it. There is a starter kill in this unit like Howie said. You shouldn't be able to start with the key if it is armed. Only when the alarm is disarmed, then you can start with the key.

Yeah I realize that. But I don't understand what I'm doing wrong.

That's why we say leave it to the pros. If you were a pro I'd say check ALL your wiring. Is it working as an alarm? What happens when you revert the green and purple to their original settings? Use a DMM and TEST TEST TEST!! I will reiterate the 5901 is NOT a DIY installation.

It works as an alarm. By reverting do you mean just disconnect and leave them out? The alarm still works and it the alarm will go off when you start the car if it's armed. It doesn't kill the starter though so you can start it.

I'm just trying to fix this so I can get my remote start to work. My DMM is with my brother but I'm getting it back today.

Check wiring with the following chart, especially the starter output wires are connected to the proper sides.

posted_image

I did all of that, is there something with the alarm that I have to change for the starter kill? My wiring is exactly what you have there.

I'm thinking my starter wire isn't getting any power because when I connect the violet H3/4 starter wire to my power probe and give it 12 volts of power the car will start.

I've tried connecting H3/9 to both white and straight to a 12V and it still doesn't work. So now what?

See I can get you right. When the starter wire (red) is cut, you connected the key side of the red wire to H3/5 - green and the car side of the red wire to H3/4 - violet. Here are some Q's I need you answered first .

When the alarm is armed, can you start the car with the key ?
when the alarm is disarmed, can you start the car with the key ?

With the starter wire cut and connected to H3/5 and H3/4 I cannot start the car no matter what.

With the starter wire uncut I could start the car while both armed and disarmed.

arashb wrote:

With the starter wire cut and connected to H3/5 and H3/4 I cannot start the car no matter what.

With the starter wire uncut I could start the car while both armed and disarmed.

Either you had loose connections or the N.C. contact between H3/4 & H3/5 is faulty. To check the starter kill contact, pull the 10-pin harness out & put a meter on two terminals on the brain side. If it has no continuity when it is disarmed then you will know the answer.

Alright well I still haven't gotten my multi meter back from my brother so I will have to wait to check.

So whiles it's disarmed it should have continuity but when it's armed it shouldn't, correct?

And if the contact between the two are faulty then what are my options?

I need the starter wires wired up correctly for my remote start to work, yes?

So whiles it's disarmed it should have continuity but when it's armed it shouldn't, correct?
That is CORRECT

And if the contact between the two are faulty then what are my options?
Replace the module or just connect the violet to the red starter wire without cutting it. Then you have no starter-kill.

I need the starter wires wired up correctly for my remote start to work, yes?

That is an understatement.

Well I just checked the continuity and here are the results.

Armed: 0.0
Disarmed: 0.0

So, I'm screwed for a starter kill?

And when you said it's an understatement did you mean it's possible to still get remote start to work? How so? My main goal is for remote start to work not for my starter kill.

No you can still use it without the starter kill OR use an external relay like this.
Ignore the unit's green wire.
Take a relay and 3 x 1N4004 diode.
Orange GWA output AND blue status a.k.a. GWA wire to 85.
Ignition wire from car to 86.
Break starter wire, key side to 87a, starter side to 30.
Starter output from Viper to 87.
The diode joins 85 to 86 with its band towards 86.
Also inline diode both wires to 85 before you join them, diode bands towards Viper.
This will give you starter kill and R/S with alarm on OR off.
T

Ok thanks Howie, I don't really want an external relay and starter kill doesn't really help me since my car can always be push started. So I'll just leave it out. Thanks for all the help.

Ok Howie or moonliter, turns out my starter wire connections are okay, any idea why right when I connect my ignition 1 I lose the ability to start my car?

Describe more fully, do you mean remote start or regular. It should make no difference to regular starting.

Its for regular starting. Its weird. As soon as the ignition1 wire gets tapped in by the pink wire I lose all ability to start the car. Then as soon as I cut I can start the car no problem. I have everything else connected that I need to.

Also if my car doesn't have a neutral safety switch what do I connect that to? On a manual car.

Alright, everything is fixed :D. I have no starter kill but I do have remote start. Thank you so much for all the help.

If you have everything hooked up the way on the diagram above then test with a dmm and make sure all your wires are correct. check the starter wire and make sure you dont have the purple and the green wire backwards Remember green is key side it goes to your key silinder side of the wire. if none of these work then with a dmm check and see if the purple and green are geting a conection through the really pack.

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BAM

arashb wrote:

Alright, everything is fixed :D. I have no starter kill but I do have remote start. Thank you so much for all the help.

What did you do...?

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

I just disconnected the starter kill and I made it so only violet is connected to the starter wiring. Still I have no starter kill but like I said I really don't care at this point.

I took out the alarm completely. Wired it all up again, using better wiring. Cleaned up my ignition wires (previous owner chopped them kinda bad) and then connected the brake, neutral safety and tach wire and changed my remote start from manual mode to automatic. And then it started and I couldn't believe it.

I'd rather train a monkey to hold a hammer and sit in my car. He can be my alarm and remote starter.....

Er, that's what I suggested initially on the 8th. Feb!

howie ll wrote:

Er, that's what I suggested initially on the 8th. Feb!

Yeah I know, I really don't think my wiring was messed up. It was the MTS mode that stopped me. I thought hmmm why not try auto and it worked. Just redoing the wiring and relocating my brain was a plus because now it's all neater :D. Again thanks howie.

Uhhh one thing, where did moonliter get this diagram from? I haven't seen one like this anywhere.
posted_image

Why does that wire have your H3/2 wire going to black red and your H3/6 and H3/9 wires going to a white wire? Do you have multiple +12v sources? I doubt its your problem but try connecting them all to a +12v const wire

ssbowtie1 wrote:

Why does that wire have your H3/2 wire going to black red and your H3/6 and H3/9 wires going to a white wire? Do you have multiple +12v sources? I doubt its your problem but try connecting them all to a +12v const wire

Yeah I have two 12 volt sources. But I'm done messing with the alarm. I got it set up good enough and I don't want to ruin it :D. Thanks though.