2009 accord remote start assistance

Ok so I have a 2009 Honda Accord V6 Coupe. I will preface this by saying I have installed dozens of Car stereos, never a remote start or Alarm...   I want to install a Viper 5301 Remote Start, I have read here that for this vehicle the IdataLink ADS-DLSL CA2 makes the install easier as it allows for a D2D interface thus only 4 wires.  Looks like just a rs232 interface between the 2 boxes.  I have read the install instructions for the Idatalink device and it looks straightforward, but I can't figure out if the Viper just works through the Idatalink device or if it also needs to be installed into the factory wiring.  If anyone has an install instrutions for a Viper 5301 that would be great, I can only find user guides on Viper.com.   

do not use d2d.

use the traditional w2w method. The idatalink module will sure make everything easier, but you still need to run a few wires to the car such as ignition, acc, start, CAN Hi/Low and power and ground.

first off, you need this diagram. https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=808

make sure you test everything. Picture in my thread of lock and disarm/unlock wires in door if you wish to have the comfort closure wired (windows up and down)

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~118776~KW~08+accord~PN~0~TPN~2

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

why not use D2D?  Has anyone else used the idatalink or expresskit canbus x400 to do an install?

to most installers we find that d2d isnt 100% reliable just yet.

i have used idatalink and fortin modules in the past and they are superb. cant comment on the canmax because i have never used it yet.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Use the ADS/Idatalink interface and wire it W2W.  It will work perfectly.

Dont use the ADS's Tach output.  Hit a coil or do voltage sensing.  .08 crank time

I'll try to answer your various questions/concerns:

D2D: Some installers have good luck all the time with it; others (including me) find it to be a bunch of barely-functioning BS that the manufacturers have refused to do correctly. If it's your first install, going wire-to-wire might reduce some headaches for you.

ADS (idatalink.com) is the only company that makes an all-in-one module that does both your transponder bypass (for remote starting) and doorlock control (so you don't have to run wires into the driver's door). Competing manufacturers require that you have a spaghetti mess of two modules to do the same thing.

ADS' tach output doesn't work with DEI product. In my opinion, DEI's default "virtual tach" setting works very well and should be all you need. If you prefer a tachometer connection, you'll have to get it at the engine under the hood. (Another option might be to leave the Viper's tach wire long, but bundled up...you can then connect it later if it turns out to be necessary.)

If your previously-learned car stereo installation skills already allow you to do neat, clean, careful work, you'll be surprised and how nice-looking the install will come out using the ADS module.

You'll really have pretty much the entire installation right at the steering column harness: Constant, ignition, accessory, starter, negative parking lights, horn, keyless data, transponder data.....they're all right there.

The module gives you doorlocks, hoodpin, tach, brake......so you won't be making any connections directly to the car for those things.

The module also does trunk release, but only works when the car is off. If you want/need the trunk release to work when the remote starter is running, you'll need to buy and connect a relay to the trunk release wire in the car, just like in any other car.

Unless you're doing a stealthy, hidden installation, you only have two panels to remove from the car: The lower half of the steering column cover (three screws) and the dash panel that's in front of your knees (only held on with clips).

Honda panels and clips are even more fragile when cold than other cars. I strongly suggest letting the car run with the heat cranked, to get the panels warm and flexible before beginning.

Oh, one more thing. I'm not sure where you plan on getting your ADS module from, but:

Multi Series (green box): Comes with no pre-installed firmware; will not work whatsoever without ADS' "loader" USB cable and your computer.

Solo Series (brown box): Comes pre-loaded with firmware, and only works on one "family" of vehicles. A Solo Series that comes programmed for, say, Nissans, can't be used on a Honda. However, you can use the loader cable to update the module to the newest firmware available.

Moral of the story: Don't buy from anyone who can't explain which firmware your module will have, and reassure you that it'll have the newest firmware flashed to it before shipping to you. Even if you find it cheaper online, you might decide it's worth more to buy it locally from a dealer who can promise you it's up-to-date.