general alarm wiring

I initially tapped into the fusebox to run 1 16 gauge wire for the alarm constant 12V. As I've gotten into the install further, I've realized that I need about 7 different places that need 12v constant from relays to different wires on the alarm.

My question is just how many times can you splice into this 16 gauge wire or should I run separate wires? Also some of t hose wires are heavy gauge wires (Viper 5901 Harness 3). Can I connect all these to the same 12V source?

WHAT kind of vehicle...? Year,Make ,Model(wasnt there a little window that popped up after you hit post reply that said please enter Year,Make,Model...) I think you have 3 main 12v wires that need power...Are the rest for bypass and...? I normally just hook the main 12v wires from unit to the ignition harness 12v wire(s)...Then i will strip the insulation and make other power connections into the main power wires from the unit...Did you fuse the 16g wire from the fusebox...? Did you use an existing fuse or just tapped into the main power wire going into fusebox...?

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

Its a 95 Pontiac Firebird. I didn't list that for a reason though because I hardly see how that's a factor. I'm simply wondering if its ok to tap into all the alarm wires using one power wire from the fusebox or if I have to run separate wires.

Basically if you were running an alarm/remote start which required multiple +12V inputs and had some heavy gauge wires, how would you run these power wires? Together/separate/somewhere in between?

I would have used  the ignition harness and NOT the fusebox...Since all the other wires were there...Ignition,Accessory...ETC....Soo if it is a newer vehicle with smaller wires at the ignition harness i could see why you connected at the fusebox...So see how it does matter...You can now make your 12v connection at the ignition harness instead of running wires to the fusebox...

Battery		RED		(+)		IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
	Ignition 1		PINK		(+)		IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
	Ignition 2		BROWN		(+)		IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
	Accessory 1		ORANGE		(+)		IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
	Starter 1		YELLOW		(+)		IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
	Anti-Theft Type		RESISTOR BASED SYS
	Anti-Theft Descript		PASSKEY
	Key Sense		LIGHT GREEN		(-)		IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
	Neutral Safety		ORANGE / BLACK		(-)		SWITCH BASE OF GEAR SHIFT
	Tachometer		WHITE V6		(-)		OR WHT/BLK (-) V8 AT COIL OR DISTRIBUTOR
	Speed Sense		GREEN / WHITE
	Parking Lights		BROWN		(+)		DRIVER'S KICK PANEL
	Brake Lights		YELLOW		(+)		AT BRAKE SWITCH
	Reverse Lights		LIGHT GREEN		(+)		SWITCH BASE OF GEAR SHIFT
	Horn		BLACK		(-)		AT STEERING COLUMN

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

tommy... wrote:

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WHAT kind of vehicle...? Year,Make ,Model(wasnt there a little window that popped up after you hit post reply that said please enter Year,Make,Model...) I think you have 3 main 12v wires that need power...Are the rest for bypass and...? I normally just hook the main 12v wires from unit to the ignition harness 12v wire(s)...Then i will strip the insulation and make other power connections into the main power wires from the unit...Did you fuse the 16g wire from the fusebox...? Did you use an existing fuse or just tapped into the main power wire going into fusebox...?

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

But its hard to tell you how to make the connection not knowing what the all 7 12v wires are...If they are all remote start related then yes...Do it the way i mentioned...If they are powering other stuff...Then other factor come into play...wire size,fusing,current draw...!

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

< >       In most cases, the wire size is reduced at the point of distribution. ANY time that the wire size is reduced, you must add a fuse in the line at the point of distribution to protect the smaller wire. Look at the following for more detailed info about changing wire sizes. Using multiple small wires in place of a larger wire: Some people may want to use a bunch of smaller, individually insulated, wires (like ten 14g wires) in place of one larger wire (like a 4g wire). This may be OK as far as current carrying capacity is concerned but the problem comes in when you have to fuse it. A 4g wire can handle about 125 amps. A 14g wire can handle about 15 amps. If one of the strands of the 14g wire is shorted to ground (like where it runs through the firewall), the main 125 amp fuse would not blow and the wire would burn. To properly protect the multiple strands of insulated wire, you'd have to use ten 15 amp fuses in individual holders (each wire would have its own fuse). I know that this may be an 'off the wall' situation but I've had several emails about this (generally concerning two or three 8g wires and a large wafer fuse) so there are, at least, a few people who don't fully understand this. Suggested Fuse Sizes:

Wire Gauge	Recommended Maximum Fuse Size
00 awg	400 amps
0 awg	325 amps
1 awg	250 amps
2 awg	200 amps
4 awg	125 amps
6 awg	80 amps
8 awg	50 amps
10 awg	30 amps
12 awg	20 amps
14 awg	15 amps
16 awg	7.5 amps

These are the recommended maximum fuse ratings for the corresponding wire size. Using a smaller fuse than what's recommended here will be perfectly safe.

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

And not forgetting another reason for asking for vehicle details is that on some modern cars the fuseboxes, ignition wires and even supposedly permanent radio memory wires will "go to sleep" to conserve the battery life. If in doubt go to the battery. I have lots of spares, power plugs, amp, main head unit feeds, the ACC is switched via a relay. These have an 80 amps primary within 4"* of the battery, and then a small distribution block inside the car running to an 8 way fuse box for further distribution.
For what it's worth I have a separate Clifford alarm controlling an Intellistart, the Intellistart power and ground leads go straight to the battery for smoother power with no complications.

*Within 4" (10cm) of source should be a MANDATORY safety requirement. Most competent installers will follow this rule.

Thanks tommy, very helpful.

I'll give you a list of the wires I'm hooking up that need +12V off my Viper 5901

+12V to the alarm (H1/2)

Fused 30A ignition 2 (H3/2)

Fused 30A ignition 1 (H3/6)

Fused 30A Accessory/Starter input (H3/9)

I was told that I need to route all these wires to +12V

I also need +12 for 2 relays and another to power my DEI 451M

I would have tapped into the ignition harness but I have my dash completely apart for other reasons and I had wires going there anyways so I decided to simplify plus I believe that it should be fused because there was an extra opening on the back of the fusebox which is what I soldered the wire to so if I pull the +12 fuse it should go out, but I'll have to look into that.

Anyways, my main concern is that the H3 wires are all 12 gauge wires I believe, where my power wire is 16 gauge. My alarm is all the way in the passenger side kickpanel, so if I don't have to run all the heavy gauge wires to the driver side ignition harness it would be optimal.

So if you had those wires to connect, how would you go about it?

Then just go to the battery with a 8g fused power wire...Like doing an amp install(power wire)...So you are going to run all the ignition wires from the ignition harness to the passenger kick...Ign,Acc,starter...? I would probably just scrap the 16g or look into right away...WHAT if something happens while installing and there is NO fuse protection...That wire burns all the way over to the passenger kick...Burning everything in its way...I think the post was general alarm wiring...This is a remote start/alarm combo...? I would still recommend moving the unit back over to the drivers side and install there...But if your determined to put it there...So be it...So are you just extending all the wires to reach the ignition harness...?

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

The reason I decided to install the alarm in the Pass side kick panel was because there was room there, where as the driver's side was completely cramped.

So in your opinion, it would be best to find somewhere to mount the main unit somewhere in the driver's location so I'm not running all the heavy gauge wires over to the pass side? Then when I'm there I can tap into the the +12 wires for H3 harness off the +12V off the ignition harness?

I'd rather not run wires into the firewall because I'll have to drill and get grommets, but I will if I have to.

Thanks for bearing with me too, I'm learning alot as I go along.

Yes,,,I would recommend installing it on the drivers side...If everything is apart there has to be a spot...I did one a cpl weeks ago and mounted it in drivers underdash...I'm thinking there was a big fat grommet you could just poke through for the firewall if you decide on leaving it on the passenger side......But to avoid all these "extra" problems and cost...Find a spot on the drivers side!

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

i normally mount my brain and then route the wires to the ignition harness...I always prep the units with tape from the connector to about 4-6 inches from top of harness...Its looks clean and hard to distinguish between factory and aftermarket wires...

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

Ok that's fine I'll just find somewhere to put the main unit closer to the driver's side.

Last question regarding the wiring. for the 3 heavy gauge wires, is it ok to make a one splice in the +12 wire in the ignition harness, then tie all three wires together and solder them to the +12 wire in one spot?

Thanks again for all the help!

Normally there is more then one 12v wire and try to separate as much as possible...All 3 in one spot might get a little hectic...But you could peel the insulation in more then one spot...Or attach one of them lower down on the 12v lead on the units harness...So then there is only 2 wires actually being attached to the ignition harness...Some(me when i did preps for dealership cars) will even do this with ALL there power connections and just attach one lead to the ignition harness...Again usually there is more then one 12v wire so that should at least cover 2 of them...the 3rd...either attach to the ignition harness or lower down on the units power wire...Usually done during the prep period...But doesnt matter...

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

howie ll wrote:

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And not forgetting another reason for asking for vehicle details is that on some modern cars the fuseboxes, ignition wires and even supposedly permanent radio memory wires will "go to sleep" to conserve the battery life. If in doubt go to the battery. I have lots of spares, power plugs, amp, main head unit feeds, the ACC is switched via a relay. These have an 80 amps primary within 4"* of the battery, and then a small distribution block inside the car running to an 8 way fuse box for further distribution.
For what it's worth I have a separate Clifford alarm controlling an Intellistart, the Intellistart power and ground leads go straight to the battery for smoother power with no complications.

*Within 4" (10cm) of source should be a MANDATORY safety requirement. Most competent installers will follow this rule.

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10-4 good buddy...!

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!