89 240sx alarm wiring

So I recently installed my first alarm in my 1989 nissan 240sx.Everything works like the starter kill when armed, door trigger when open armed, lights, siren, every pretty much.I decided not to install the remote start because I got a 5spd and it's pointless if you think about it.

So my issue is that I wired up the negative trigger to the RED / white wire behind the cluster which if any door is open it goes off.Well now that it works and triggers the alarm to go off when I open the door armed it also makes my lights flash as if the alarm was activated when it's not so therefore I have to hit unlock again.Any idea what wire I can also wire it to with out having the lights go off when I open a door when it's unlocked?

My other issue is my alarm goes with the flashing lights, so every time the lights flash the siren goes then it goes off the siren stops then continues like that.Any other wire I can wire this to other then the wire behind the illumination adjustment button?

My other issue is I can arm my car when I'm driving or when it's on and if I open the door the alarm goes off.My major worry is that it might activate while I'm driving and the car will start to go off.Any idea how I can fix this too?

The alarm I have is and Ebay 2-way FM pager serie 2300 and please I don't want any opinions on how bad they are cause so far it works great thanks.

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My Grammer Sucks

Doesn't sound like it's working great...But anyhow...Did you hook up the ignition wire...? I dont understand issue one at all...sorry...On issue two...Your saying the siren chirps with the flashing of the lights...on...off...on...off...? You can disconnect the wire and see if the alarm still does it...But im going to guess it will...It might be a feature you can change in the program menu...Otherwise... maybe that is how that unit works...!? As far as issue 3...It sounds as if you either didnt hook up ignition or its a bad connection...Most alarms will not let you arm while driving...(this works with the ignition wire telling the alarm the car is ON...) So either check or hook up ignition...Does this unit have passive/active arming...Does the alarm automatically arm 30 seconds after door is shut...As far as another location for the door trigger...It says you  can also go to the courtesy light/under-dash-light...! And it says VIOLET for behind the cluster...(color could be wrong)

	Battery		WHITE/ RED		(+)		IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
	Ignition 1		BLACK/ WHITE		(+)		IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
	Starter 1		BLACK / YELLOW		(+)		IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
	All Door Trigger		RED / WHITE		(-)		AT COURT LIGHT OR VIO BEHIND INST CLUSTE
	Trunk Trigger		RED		(-)		AT LIGHT IN TRUNK
	Hood Trigger		N/A
	Alarm Disarm		N/A
	Parking Lights		RED / BLUE		(+)		AT LIGHT SWITCH OR BACK OF DIMMER

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

I will double check these issues thanks.

For issue one it's the fact that whenever I close a door and then open it when it's armed the alarm goes off when it's unarmed the lights go off as if the alarm was activated make more sense?

For the trigger I went behind the cluster and hooked it up to the RED / white wire and I never found a violet or also purple wire.The courtesy light would be the dome?I kinda dunno what that is and I feel dumb about it cause I should know this.So if you please can tell what it is?

The ignition is wired up.Maybe I gotta wire one end to different wires?I got both ends and the alarm wire all united is this right?
Should I wire up the alarm to the ignition after the plug in or before?Like away from ignition or closer to it?

The alarm does have auto lock every 30seconds.Thanks man.


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My Grammer Sucks

I've nearly always done Japanese from the warning light, usually Toyotas, never any problems with decent alarms.
Ignition stand-off not connected.
Check your siren wiring, there's something wrong here, I suspect power supply problem run a meter across your power and ground leads, it should be at least 12.3V+.
Tommy we call them interior or courtesy lights in the UK I'm always having problems with boots/trunks, hoods/bonnets etc.
Lastly NEVER buy electronic equipment from fleabay, ESPECIALLY an unbranded alarm, but then you knew what you were getting into, no service back up and you WILL have problems.

It came from Canada and I always buy from Ebay.Product is good came with directions and I wired it like it said too.The siren part is wired from the ignition battery cable should I run it to the (+) battery terminal instead?

The negative is wired to the metal bar behind the cluster which is pretty good.The siren maybe have features I still yet to try all features kinda confusing to get to all them.Manual uses weird english or not show the exact steps but in super short description.

For the ignition it's wired right dunno why I can still arm it and disarm it when the car is running.

Should I wire the trigger from the interior light then?Dome light(the recommend not to)?Door sensor bulb on the cluster(I got mine like this but it even triggers my lights when it's not armed like mentioned before)?

Eh, I know this alarm is doing it's job but it's my first time hooking up an alarm ever.So I'm learning as I look to fix my mistakes.Thanks.

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My Grammer Sucks

TEST all your wiring, I did a Civic type R today and I did both doors and trunk from the instrument panel warning lights.
If your wiring is correct then the unit must be faulty. Nothing wrong with your siren feed. Have you checked the voltage like I asked? I've NEVER had a unit arm itself when the ignition was on. If you did all your wiring correctly then it's the alarm.

I will check the voltage today just letting my car cool down right now.Well I drove today and when the car was idling the doors locked and alarm armed itself.When I drove it didn't lock once the whole trip but when I got out the car it would make the lights blink.Feature that annoys me is it self arms everytime and I don't want that.Also it came with a remote start which has a Tach wire which I hear is needed to indicate if the car is on/off or running.I didn't install that but do I need to now so maybe it can bypass the alarm?

I have a 5spd so to the alarm I'm in park everytime except for some reason when I'm actually driving.This confusing I appreciate the help a lot and will post voltage within the next hour.Thanks.

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My Grammer Sucks

The tach has nothing to do with your current issues, unless, something is majorly wrong with that alarm!

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

t&t tech wrote:

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The tach has nothing to do with your current issues, unless, something is majorly wrong with that alarm!

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We won't know until I try to fix it and measure the voltage.Will be back in a few.

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My Grammer Sucks

t&t tech wrote:

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The tach has nothing to do with your current issues, unless, something is majorly wrong with that alarm!

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

My bad hahaha I know the tach wire has nothing to do.Well I fixed one problem the alarm doesn't activate when I'm driving but still the door trigger flashes my lights until I close the door.

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My Grammer Sucks