viper 5501 problems, 2006 ford f150
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=120284
Printed Date: May 02, 2024 at 4:31 AM
Topic: viper 5501 problems, 2006 ford f150
Posted By: ronin_r6
Subject: viper 5501 problems, 2006 ford f150
Date Posted: February 21, 2010 at 1:39 PM
I am installing a viper 5501 remote starter (without security) and a BypassKit PKFM connected via D2D cable into a 2006 Ford F150., I have run into a couple issues that i cant seem to figure out.
Last night I thought I was done, programmed the PKFM (I think), and tried to remote start. Nothing happend, then pressed lock to test the keyless entry (which was working earlier) and the horn got stuck engaged. I tried to start with the key and the battery was dead. I boosted the Truck and its running fine, but.
1. As soon as the viper module gets power, the horn engages and will not stop. I have pulled the pin from H1/3 for now.
2. Remote start does not work, the 2 way remote thinks it works, then after 30 seconds it says "remote start off".
3. The parking lights and keyless entry are working properly (I press lock on the fob and the doors lock, and the lights flash once). However 10 seconds after locking the doors, the LCD FOB beeps and tells me that the door is open (even though it is not.)
Here is the vehicle specific portion of the wiring. There is no hood switch as of now, and the override and neutral switches are working. I have triple checked all connection, they are correct as listed, and the solder joints are solid. I can still enter the feature programming for the module.
Purpose Vehicle Wire Viper 5501 Wire
12 VOLTS GREEN/ violet H1/2 (Red)
IGNITION Blue/green H3/1 (Pink)
ACCESSORY BLACK/ green H3/3 (Orange)
STARTER RED / gray H3/4 (Violet)
KEY SENSE BLACK/ pink H2/10(Blue)
TACH SIGNAL Uncommon
FUEL INJECTOR Opposite of Red
LOCK Pink / YELLOW Green
UNLOCK Pink/green Blue
DOORPIN BLACK / YELLOW H1/8 (Green)
BRAKESWITCH Green H2/17 (Brown)
PARKLIGHTS Brown H1/11 (White)
DOMELIGHT BLACK/ Blue N/U (need relay?)
HORN Blue H1/3 (Brown)
VSS WIRE Gray/black
TRANSPONDER IGN RED / lt.green Orange (PKFM)
TRANSPONDER RX Gray/orange Pink (PKFM)
TRANSPONDER TX WHITE/ lt.green Green (PKFM)
TRANSPONDER GND BLACK/ lt.blue
nyone out there installed a viper, and can see anything I am doing wrong? How did the horn get stuck in this state, when I programmed the transmission mode it was working fine?
Replies:
Posted By: kickergod
Date Posted: February 21, 2010 at 4:28 PM
First thing you need to do is cut the data wires on the bypass and hardwire the power and ground. D2D is not yet a perfected technology and has caused headaches for everyone. Next make sure you have a good solid ground a poor ground can cause random things like latched horn. Also if it is a security module, brown is a siren wire which will rest at ground (therefore latching horn). See if any of that helps.
------------- Ryan Edwards
MECP Certified Installer
Posted By: moonliter
Date Posted: February 21, 2010 at 5:15 PM
ronin_r6 wrote:
12 VOLTS GREEN/ violet H1/2 (Red) IGNITION Blue/green H3/1 (Pink) ACCESSORY BLACK/ green H3/3 (Orange) STARTER RED / gray H3/4 (Violet)
You must connect H3/5 & H3/8 to +12V constant ---->> GREEN/ violet at ignition switch, should be fine. H3/2, H3/6 & H3/7 are not required for your truck so you can tape the ends off. GREEN/ violet +12V constant at the ignition switch is only fused at 20A. It is enough to power ignition, accessory & starter but it is not suitable to power the 5501 module which can draw as much as 15A if positive parking lights is used. So H1/2 (red) should be connected to other +12V source preferable to the battery Once you are done wiring, you should program 5501 from default manual to auto, start the truck with the key & learn the tach before you attempt to remote start. Bypass can be wired but should be left unplugged until the remote starter part is finished & tested. When you test, just insert the key & don't turn.
Posted By: ronin_r6
Date Posted: February 21, 2010 at 7:30 PM
Thank you. I had missed one of the red wires on the H3 harness. I put that on +12 and the remote start works great. I will take your advice on the H1/2 wire and move it to a direct battery connection.
All the remote start features work great now, but problems 1 and 3 remain.
I hooked h1/8 to the BLACK / YELLOW in the driver kick panel based on this https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~98709. Is there something I am missing in the way the door switches work? Why does the alarm think that my door is open?
The horn makes no sense. As soon as I out the pin into the H1 harness the horn engages. I redid the common ground and I am positive they are solid.
Posted By: moonliter
Date Posted: February 21, 2010 at 8:39 PM
try changing option 2 on menu 2 - 3 the door ajar error honk to OFF would help.
Posted By: ronin_r6
Date Posted: February 24, 2010 at 9:20 PM
No difference. Horn still wont stop.
I also disconnected the door trigger, so the system doesn't think that the door is open. Since the 5501 has no security features I don't think I'm really missing much by doing this.
I also have a question about the "Ign-controlled Locks" (menu1, feature 4). My truck locks all the doors when I hit 5mph, but does not unlock them when I put it in park. Its not a big deal for the front seats because when you pull the handle it unlocks, but the rear doors don't do that. If I set this setting to 4 (Unlock only) should it unlock all the doors when i turn the truck off? I tried the setting, and it did nothing.
Posted By: moonliter
Date Posted: February 24, 2010 at 11:50 PM
Isn't the ignition unlock only unlocks the doors when you turn the ignition off ? Regarding the door triggers, did you install diodes to prevent backfeed for false alarm see isolation diagram
Posted By: ronin_r6
Date Posted: February 26, 2010 at 10:56 PM
For the door trigger, I was only connecting the Driver door, and yes I did put in a 1n4000 diode. I will try and pull the backseat, and connect the doors as shown in that diagram this weekend.
As far as the locks. I assumed the same thing, with menu 1 feature 4 set to a value of 4, the doors would unlock when the ignition was turned off. Is there some dependency that I don't know about?
Anyone have any more ideas regarding the horn issue?
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