Starter Kill Relays, 20/30 Amp vs. 40 Amp?
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=120400
Printed Date: May 14, 2024 at 11:28 PM
Topic: Starter Kill Relays, 20/30 Amp vs. 40 Amp?
Posted By: wire2
Subject: Starter Kill Relays, 20/30 Amp vs. 40 Amp?
Date Posted: February 27, 2010 at 9:06 PM
whats the difference with using a spst 20/30amp relay verus a 40amp relay? would it effect performance as a starter interrupt ?
Replies:
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: February 27, 2010 at 9:24 PM
As long as you are interrupting the low current wire that triggers the starter solenoid, either relay will work just fine.
Posted By: wire2
Date Posted: February 27, 2010 at 10:04 PM
starter clicks when trying start sometimes it takes 3 turns of the key to crank. or sometimes theres a 1 second delay when turning the key to starter. or if I hold the key to start it clicks and 2 secs later it cranks. new starter same issue
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: February 27, 2010 at 10:27 PM
Bypass the relay to eliminate it as a possibility.
Posted By: wire2
Date Posted: February 27, 2010 at 10:31 PM
its for the aftermarket alarm. if I bypass I wont have starter cut feature. could it be the amperage of the relay? Its a 20/30amp but they dont sell that in store I only see 30 or 40 amp.
Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: February 27, 2010 at 10:45 PM
Startermotor solenoids can take 20-30A normally, and double that if the main battery+ to starter is bad or missing.
However I expect your relay is controlling a relay for the startermotor solenoid - not the solenoid itself....
As Idiot Esq. wrote - bypass the relay. (And feel for hot wires..)
But check that your battery terminals and other heavy connections (grounds, starter & bolts to engine etc) are clean and tight - it sounds a bit like a classic bad battery connection....
Posted By: wire2
Date Posted: February 27, 2010 at 11:13 PM
everything is clean nothing loose. I was wondering if it could be the aftermarket relay amps . the car has a stock starter cut relay
what if I up the relay to 40amps instead of the 20amp
Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: February 27, 2010 at 11:20 PM
So you have already bypassed the relay and the starter cranks ok?
Posted By: wire2
Date Posted: February 27, 2010 at 11:24 PM
didnt try that yet . if it does crank ok im assuming the aftermarket relay could be faulty...
Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: February 27, 2010 at 11:30 PM
Yes - and THEN you can change relays.
Otherwise you can just try random things hoping you stumble on the answer. That saves a lot of posting - you only need to post the solution.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: February 28, 2010 at 7:05 AM
Any one checked the ignition switch, based on the fact that it's about 16million to 1 against new relay failure.
Posted By: wire2
Date Posted: March 04, 2010 at 3:06 PM
car cranks only with aftermarket starter cut relay plugged in. if its unplug the car doesnt get a signal. with the car starter wire directly connected to other half starter waire it cranks ok.
could the aftermarket relay be faulty? should I use a 40amp ? or 20amp ?
Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: March 04, 2010 at 3:10 PM
Obviously the car will only start with the relay plugged in! It's starter kill isn't it? What you have to do is eliminate the relay entirely and use the car on your normal basis to see if the problem still persists, then you can point fingers at the relay! ------------- COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF.
PSALMS 37:5
Posted By: wire2
Date Posted: March 04, 2010 at 3:31 PM
its a starter kill. the starter was replaced and tested good the same for the ignition switch. all wire grounds are tight and clean.
I would need the starter kill for the alarm
Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: March 04, 2010 at 5:51 PM
The question was rhetorical! I know that you would need the relay for the starter kill, however you have a more serious problem, which threathens to leave you stranded somewhere in the middle of the night! So eliminate the relay for a while! Highly probable it wasn't slowing down a professional thief anyway! ------------- COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF.
PSALMS 37:5
Posted By: simplyfalling
Date Posted: March 04, 2010 at 6:11 PM
we understand you need the starter kill for the alarm, but unfortunately something went wrong somewhere and now your stuck in a troubleshooting stage. You can either a; get your meter out and test what is going on at the relay, through multiple crank cycles, just make sure you've got some kind of trickle charger on the battery. b: remove the starter kill relay from the installation and run through the crank cycle, documenting the vehicles performance which will afford you some knowledge pertaining to whether or not the starter kill relay is affecting the vehicle. What is the year make and model of the vehicle you are having difficulties with? That info might help us help you better. It me be related to something someone here might have seen before. Best Luck
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: March 04, 2010 at 9:03 PM
i am an idiot wrote:
Bypass the relay to eliminate it as a possibility.
Posted By: wire2
Date Posted: March 04, 2010 at 9:15 PM
the relay has a slight burnt odor.
Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: March 04, 2010 at 11:00 PM
I lost count...
Is it 9 times that bypassing and checking the relay has been mentioned?
The relay's burnt odour is probably only because it's been mentioned so many times - it is very unlikely to have anything to do with it having anything whatsoever to with its failure.
Since you are probably switching low current, it's unlikely to be contact burn - and that tends not so smell anyhow.
Burnt out solenoids tend to smell burnt, but as Howie says, this is statistically unlikely.
Why not follow Howie's excellent advice and check the IgSwitch - it is a cause that is so often overlooked.
Failing that, remove the starter and have it checked by a pro.
If it is some power connection fault, that's likely to be fixed when you retighten the returned starter.
And have your battery tested by a pro whilst you are at it (maybe by the starter tester & get a package deal?).
It could be other things, but if it's none of the above, try bypassing the relay on the off-chance that it is the problem.
I'm a bit unsure, but I think that could be the problem.
(Hey guy's, did I score a "TEN" ....)
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: March 04, 2010 at 11:12 PM
I have an idea. i am an idiot wrote:
i am an idiot wrote:
Bypass the relay to eliminate it as a possibility.
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: March 04, 2010 at 11:21 PM
And check the tire pressure too.
Posted By: wire2
Date Posted: March 05, 2010 at 10:17 AM
the relay was bypass. it seems ok for now. but the relay I bypass has a slight odor .
Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: March 05, 2010 at 3:28 PM
Great! Now we can figure it isn't the relay! Mr idiot, tire pressure? ------------- COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF.
PSALMS 37:5
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: March 05, 2010 at 4:31 PM
I'd check the coolant system do we know what car it is yet? Where am I?
Forget the relay, by-pass it for now.
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: March 05, 2010 at 6:07 PM
He bypassed the relay and said all appears to be fine. Other than the odor coming from the relay.
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: March 05, 2010 at 6:15 PM
It is the relay.
|