where to pull power for remote start?

Wiring diagram says to pull power for my 2004 Pontiac grand prix at the back of the fusebox on the passenger side dash. 40 & 50 amp. I can't see anywhere to tap into this for the remote start ignition power. Can anyone help? I need to get this back together before it's dark. Thank you.

You can also grab the power at the bottom of the BCM on the driver's side. There are two ORANGE wires that are 12 volts constant and make sure you use the (-) parking lights on the remote starter as well and change out the fuses on the RS to 10 amps.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Velocity Motors wrote:

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You can also grab the power at the bottom of the BCM on the driver's side. There are two ORANGE wires that are 12 volts constant and make sure you use the (-) parking lights on the remote starter as well and change out the fuses on the RS to 10 amps.

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Don't mean to hijack this post, but why is that? Why do these RS units come with a 15amp fuse installed and then tell you to replace it with something else?

I used a 10amp in mine also.

They do it so that it accomodates all vehicles ignition systems that require higher amperage requirements under start. For most of the newer ignition systems, you only need a 5 amp fuse since most of the circuitry is designed with multiplex starting and low to high current relays that take care of the actual starting process.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Have everything hooked up but the led is on solid on the remote start autopage rs665. Won't let me program anything. Confused....

Here is the current state of my miserable failure of an install. Autopage RS-665 remote start, idatalink DLSL-GM programmed for the car. I currently have the bypass speaking to the remote start through the RS232 port.

Pressing lock, unlock, and trunk all appear to work fine. The idatalink module programmed fine. Remote start is getting power and ground, and I grounded the neutral safety switch wire. The LED for the remote start is solid on. If I lock the car and lock it a second time, the siren makes a pathetic whimper that's barely audible. No matter what I try I can't get the remote start to go into programming mode. The instructions say turn the ignition "on" and off 3 times and then press the valet switch 9 times and hold it on the ninth press to enter programming mode. Every time I do this the remote start just stays in the current state. No noise, LED stays solid....

What can I do to troubleshoot? Locks and trunk work but why can't I even get into programming mode and what does a solid LED indicate? Their install guide is a little lacking. Guess I know now I should leave this to the pros next time.

I'm not sure about the solid LED, as I've never installed Autopage product before.

However, assuming you have some sort of electrical tester, whether it be multimeter or test light, and you have the ability to use it, it should just be a matter of testing each wire that goes into the brain for proper function.

That is, go directly to the brain of the unit, and put your tester right onto the little exposed metal part where the wires go into the unit.

Test the following for proper function:

Ground
Constant
Ignition

And then the valet switch should have a 2-pin plug....probably black and gray wires. The black wire should be ground all the time, and the gray wire should be ground only while you're holding the switch in.

Other thoughts:

Since your locks work, your antenna, antenna cable, and remotes must therefore also be good.

I would say probably your constant and ground are both likely good too, since the system does seem to be working.....but sometimes you can have a faulty ground and the unit will still pull enough ground through some of the other wires to still work a little bit.

Since getting into programming requires a combination of the ignition and the valet switch, I would focus your efforts on testing those two inputs to the brain.

Also, almost every remote starter has some way to disable the unit for when you're going to make repairs under the hood, so you won't get hurt. Look at the owner's (not install) guide........ maybe that's why the LED is on. Learn about how to disable and enable the remote starter, and see if that helps.

Thank you for the reply. I did some searching and it looks like I may have somehow entered valet mode.... Can't believe I now have to take apart that dash again to find out.

Because this car has a factory alarm is there any harm in disconnecting the siren and LED once the programming is complete?

This system has two stage unlocking however when I unlock the doors it seems to do a double pulse. Does the idatalink support double pulse? Also to pop the trunk requires holding the trunk button for about 6 seconds and that also unlocks the doors. Shouldn't the doors and trunk be exclusive?

I've never done one of those cars with a module, only with a blank aftermarket key in a regular bypass box, so I don't know how the module would behave with the locks.

If you think you're somehow in valet mode, why should you have to take the dash apart to find out? Shouldn't the unit have a pushbutton or switch that will let you get out of valet mode?

It was getting late and rather than leave the car in the half finished state I pulled out all the unconnected wires/modules and zip tied the rest inside the dash until I had a solution. My wife needed the car for work. :)

dwljpl wrote:

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Thank you for the reply. I did some searching and it looks like I may have somehow entered valet mode.... Can't believe I now have to take apart that dash again to find out.

Because this car has a factory alarm is there any harm in disconnecting the siren and LED once the programming is complete?

This system has two stage unlocking however when I unlock the doors it seems to do a double pulse. Does the idatalink support double pulse? Also to pop the trunk requires holding the trunk button for about 6 seconds and that also unlocks the doors. Shouldn't the doors and trunk be exclusive?

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When using the RS232 port on an Idatalink module the module is defaulted for priority unlock. Meaning that through RS232 the driver side door will unlock on the first press, then on the second unlock press of the remote it will unlock the remaining doors. The way around this is two ways... One way is to W2W (wire to wire) the Idatalink module to the remote start brain... or... you can ground the "Blue/Black" off the Idatalink module, and this will cancel the priorty unlock fuction via RS232, in essence it will double pulse the locks during unlock.

As far as the truck pop unlocking the vehicle goes. This is required because the factory alarm does not automatically disarm via the data bus during truck pop. In order for you to open the trunk the car must first disarm, and the ADS module will unlock the doors during this process.

I recommend if you have any questions pertaining to the ADS modules that you visit their support forums at https://www.12voltdata.com. Anyone of the many installers (including myself) would be very happy to answer any questions pertaining to their products.

The unlock is currently working exactly the opposite. It's unlocking all doors through a single push of the unlock button on the transmitter. I hear the remote start pulse twice and I'd actually like it to work as you explained. That's how the car works from the manufacturer. One press opens driver door, two presses opens all doors. It's currently reversed and I don't have the blue/black grounded. I simply have the RS232, the pink ignition wire and the orange data bus wire. Thanks for answering!