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98 sienna remote start, alarm disarm

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=120598
Printed Date: May 15, 2024 at 7:58 PM


Topic: 98 sienna remote start, alarm disarm

Posted By: mkracer220
Subject: 98 sienna remote start, alarm disarm
Date Posted: March 08, 2010 at 8:16 PM

I am currently finishing up a remote start (dei valet 561r) install on a 98 Toyota Sienna.  After coming here for most of the information needed, I am still stuck on a few things.

One is the tach signal.  I have some documentation from the12volt that I will try out tomorrow.

The 2nd thing is the factory alarm that is currently in the van.  I would like the remote starter to utilize the factory alarm for an alarm.  I just do not know where the factory disarm and rearm are located.  It is the factory alarm from toyota.  I tried a suggestion as to whether the door lock disarms the alarm: it does not.  You need the key fob to arm and disarm the security.  Where is the disarm and rearm wire for the remote starter to connect to?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Tony




Replies:

Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: March 08, 2010 at 9:12 PM

1998 Toyota Sienna           info from AudioVox

Alarm Disarm     BLUE  (-)           20 PIN PLUG AT FUSE BOX OR DR.KICK PANE 
Alarm Arm                            Arms With LOCK

To test for this you might need to use key in drivers door and turn to unlock to see DisArm pulse.  Not sure on older Toyotas, but new ones like to see Keysense, too.

Keysense (-)       Blue/Black          Ignition switch harness



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: mkracer220
Date Posted: March 08, 2010 at 10:10 PM
kreg357 wrote:

1998 Toyota Sienna           info from AudioVox

Alarm Disarm     BLUE  (-)           20 PIN PLUG AT FUSE BOX OR DR.KICK PANE 
Alarm Arm                            Arms With LOCK

To test for this you might need to use key in drivers door and turn to unlock to see DisArm pulse.  Not sure on older Toyotas, but new ones like to see Keysense, too.

Keysense (-)       Blue/Black          Ignition switch harness


Thanks for the response so quickly.  As far as a 20 pin plug, I will look closer at what is around the fuse block, but I do not recall seeing a solid blue wire.  Also, is the alarm to arm when locking the driver's door?  Or should it lock using the passenger door as well?  I am not familiar with the Toyota's factory alarm.

I am not sure about the keysense, but we use a spare metal key as the main plastic key was lost years ago.





Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: March 08, 2010 at 10:19 PM
Tachometer:

https://www.audiogroupforum.com/csforum/showthread.php?t=12382

Go to the last paragraph at that post; information is for a 2000. 1998 might also be PURPLE / red but at the same location.

Factory alarm:

For a 1998, it's very unlikely you'll succeed in getting the remote starter to arm and disarm the factory alarm.

Read here:
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~118957~PN~1




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: March 09, 2010 at 5:37 AM

I believe Toyota didn't start using a transponder immobilizer on Sienna's until 1999, and because your van operates properly with a plain key, that confirms you don't have an immobilizer. 

Kesense is a signal that is generated when a key is inserted into the ignition switch.  The car uses this signal for various purposes.  Sometimes it's just to sound a chime to alert you that the car is off, the drivers door is open and the key is still in the ignition switch.  Sometimes it is used with the cars alarm system.



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: March 09, 2010 at 5:56 AM

the door lock wire is also your factory alarm arm. Connect your lock wire to BLUE/WHITE (-)

Connect the unlock wire to BLUE / YELLOW (-). this will control unlock and factory alarm disarm when you unlock doors.

The independant wire to disarm without unlocking doors is BLUE (-) @ DKP, loom heading into cabin from the door.

Tach Either GRAY or BLUE @ coil pack ontop of engine. You can also use the TAN wire.

There is no bypass required for this van.



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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: mkracer220
Date Posted: March 09, 2010 at 8:07 AM
Thanks for all the help.
Chris Luongo wrote:



Factory alarm:

For a 1998, it's very unlikely you'll succeed in getting the remote starter to arm and disarm the factory alarm.

Read here:
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~118957~PN~1

That was one long post, but very informational and easy to read. I hate one huge post with no spacing.

I think I need to test a little more so see how the factory alarm behaves with different scenarios.

kreg357 wrote:

I believe Toyota didn't start using a transponder immobilizer on Sienna's until 1999, and because your van operates properly with a plain key, that confirms you don't have an immobilizer.

Kesense is a signal that is generated when a key is inserted into the ignition switch. The car uses this signal for various purposes. Sometimes it's just to sound a chime to alert you that the car is off, the drivers door is open and the key is still in the ignition switch. Sometimes it is used with the cars alarm system.



It definitly doesn't have an immobilizer. I will connect the keysense on the van, but what wire do I use from the 561r? Would I use the ignition or accessory trigger? Or the 200mA status output?




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: March 09, 2010 at 8:15 AM

For Keysense use the (-) Status output.  Diode isloate it if you are using that signal any where else.



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: mkracer220
Date Posted: March 09, 2010 at 9:26 PM

Update, I finally had some time to get outside with the van (had to replace door handles...fun). 

I used the factory key fob to arm the security system.  I then took the key and unlocked the doors from the drivers side.  It did NOT disarm the alarm system, nor did the passenger door.  I opened the door after unlocking and the alarm still went off. Bummer, was hoping to utilize it.  May be I can make it work in my next Toyota.

I also noticed that the remote start does not allow the dome light to come on after arming.  I connected the lock/unlock to the bundle of wire at the bottom of the fuse panel. (Blue/White and Blue / YELLOW)  I couldn't find the wire on the driver's door harness.  I'll have to probe again I guess.

For keysense, the -200mA won't be used anywhere else but the keysense.  Will I still need a diode for this?





Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: March 10, 2010 at 6:20 AM

No diode necessary if the R/S's (-) Staus output is only going to the vans(-)  Keysense wire. 

As for the alarm, what happens if you set the alarm (with the window down), unlock the drivers door with the key, reach into the van & insert a key into the ignition (but don't turn it), and then open a door?  Does the alarm still go off?  Sometimes keysense or keysense + ignition will turn off the alarm.



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: mkracer220
Date Posted: March 10, 2010 at 9:52 AM
kreg357 wrote:

No diode necessary if the R/S's (-) Staus output is only going to the vans(-)  Keysense wire. 

As for the alarm, what happens if you set the alarm (with the window down), unlock the drivers door with the key, reach into the van & insert a key into the ignition (but don't turn it), and then open a door?  Does the alarm still go off?  Sometimes keysense or keysense + ignition will turn off the alarm.




I will try this tonight. If it does work, how would I tie the two systems together if the keysense is already being used by the (-) output?




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: March 10, 2010 at 7:12 PM

I'm not sure I understand your question.  The vans keysense signal would still work normally, it would just have the R/S's (-) Status output attached to it.

Usually the (-) Status output from the R/S is used to control the Bypass module.  Your van does not need a bypass module.  The R/S (-) Status output could be attached to the vans (-) Keysense wire to make the van think that a key has been inserted into the ignition switch during remote start.  The keysense signal is often used to turn off the alarm, sometimes in conjunction with other signals.

Don't worry too much about Keysense.  It may not be necessary for your van.  Your van might not trigger an alarm just by remote starting.  Did you find the Alarm Disarm blue wire in the drivers kick panel?

Also, on some new Toyota's, the remote keyless entry is disabled by the car when the engine is running.  That means if you remote start the van, your factory remote keyless entry will not unlock the doors.   Try starting your van with the key, then press the lock or unlock button on the factory FOB.  Anything happen?



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: mkracer220
Date Posted: March 10, 2010 at 8:07 PM
kreg357 wrote:

I'm not sure I understand your question.  The vans keysense signal would still work normally, it would just have the R/S's (-) Status output attached to it.

Usually the (-) Status output from the R/S is used to control the Bypass module.  Your van does not need a bypass module.  The R/S (-) Status output could be attached to the vans (-) Keysense wire to make the van think that a key has been inserted into the ignition switch during remote start.  The keysense signal is often used to turn off the alarm, sometimes in conjunction with other signals.

Don't worry too much about Keysense.  It may not be necessary for your van.  Your van might not trigger an alarm just by remote starting.  Did you find the Alarm Disarm blue wire in the drivers kick panel?

Also, on some new Toyota's, the remote keyless entry is disabled by the car when the engine is running.  That means if you remote start the van, your factory remote keyless entry will not unlock the doors.   Try starting your van with the key, then press the lock or unlock button on the factory FOB.  Anything happen?






Posted By: mkracer220
Date Posted: March 10, 2010 at 8:49 PM
mkracer220 wrote:

kreg357 wrote:

I'm not sure I understand your question.  The vans keysense signal would still work normally, it would just have the R/S's (-) Status output attached to it.

Usually the (-) Status output from the R/S is used to control the Bypass module.  Your van does not need a bypass module.  The R/S (-) Status output could be attached to the vans (-) Keysense wire to make the van think that a key has been inserted into the ignition switch during remote start.  The keysense signal is often used to turn off the alarm, sometimes in conjunction with other signals.

Don't worry too much about Keysense.  It may not be necessary for your van.  Your van might not trigger an alarm just by remote starting.  Did you find the Alarm Disarm blue wire in the drivers kick panel?

Also, on some new Toyota's, the remote keyless entry is disabled by the car when the engine is running.  That means if you remote start the van, your factory remote keyless entry will not unlock the doors.   Try starting your van with the key, then press the lock or unlock button on the factory FOB.  Anything happen?



Seems there isn't an edit post function.  I posted a reply without typing anything.

Found that the alarm disarms when you use the key to start it.  This would mean the van does have keysense and I will connect the (-)200mA output to this keysense.

Once started, the factory key fob will unlock the doors.  It will NOT lock the doors back though.

I think the goal is to just get the remote start working to the point it remote starts and unlock/lock the doors.  I would prefer to have the alarm arm and disarm from the RS fob.  Is there a way to teach the RS lock/unlock button to the factory alarm?





Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: March 10, 2010 at 9:52 PM

Yes, install the R/S unit and worry about the alarm later.  It is possible that a remote start with the Keysense signal supplied by 561R's (-) Status output will not only start the van and disarm the alarm too, allowing you to unlock the doors with the R/S FOB's and open them without an alarm. 



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: mkracer220
Date Posted: March 11, 2010 at 8:28 AM
kreg357 wrote:

Yes, install the R/S unit and worry about the alarm later.  It is possible that a remote start with the Keysense signal supplied by 561R's (-) Status output will not only start the van and disarm the alarm too, allowing you to unlock the doors with the R/S FOB's and open them without an alarm. 




That's great and all, but to disarm the alarm using the keysense feature the alarm has to be armed in the first place. It seems that is what I have left. How to arm the factory alarm with the door lock.

Thanks again for all the help, the12volt is another great forum to come to for help. If you own a MR2 or 3sgte/3sfe/5sfe/3sge, check out www.mr2oc.com. Great group of guys.




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: March 11, 2010 at 8:54 AM

According to the info from AudioVox site and the post from Ted, the vans alarm will turn on with a door lock.  If you attach the R/S's lock output to the van's Blue/White lock wire in the Driver Kick Panel, pressing the lock button on the R/S FOB will lock the doors and turn the alarm on.   Also, to find the lock/unlock wires in the drivers kick panel, you need to check the wire with a DMM while turning the key in the Passenger Door lock .



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: mkracer220
Date Posted: March 11, 2010 at 12:36 PM
kreg357 wrote:

According to the info from AudioVox site and the post from Ted, the vans alarm will turn on with a door lock.  If you attach the R/S's lock output to the van's Blue/White lock wire in the Driver Kick Panel, pressing the lock button on the R/S FOB will lock the doors and turn the alarm on.   Also, to find the lock/unlock wires in the drivers kick panel, you need to check the wire with a DMM while turning the key in the Passenger Door lock .




I'll make sure to do it from the passenger door key lock.

The only issue is that with the van all closed up, locking the van from either driver's or passenger's door lock will NOT arm the van. It will lock, but the security light will not come on. Also, unlocking the van from the driver's door lock will NOT disarm the van. Putting the key into the ignition and turning it WILL disarm.




Posted By: mkracer220
Date Posted: March 19, 2010 at 8:58 AM
Update:

Got everything buttoned up. Decided to not go with the alarm combo because I couldn't come up with a way to arm the alarm. Doors lock and unlock with the lights working and locks working.

Tach signal ended up coming from an orange wire from the rear of the combination meter (dash). Had to take the dash almost completely apart. The wife came out and was all upset saying her van was a wreck.... glad I'm somewhat gear-head.

Thanks again for all the help.





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